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JEK5019
12-04-2019, 02:38 PM
good day -

i am designing a handheld tool. i am needing to adhere the wood to the metal stem.

as you can see (i have cut parts of the metal so as to trap some of the epoxy.

however, is that even necessary?

and as far as the bore size goes for the wood - how much room/tolerance should i provide for the metal stem to fit?

regards -

jón

25655

the great waldo
12-04-2019, 06:19 PM
Hi Jon
Most good quality 2 part epoxy's will do the job. Use the slow setting ones they set stronger and give you more working time. A couple of grooves will be more than enough to stop the rod pulling out although I would recommend some flats on the metal if there is going to be any torque on the metal just in case. Rough sanding or bad turning techniqe would probably improve the adhesion of the epoxy. A good trick is to warm the metal and epoxy which will make it thin and runny. Maybe a thin groove the length of the rod will help the epoxy out when you push the rod in otherwise if it's to tight you'll never get it in. Don't forget to use properly seasoned wood otherwise you'll have problems. Some Danish oil would be a good finish (a couple of coats Rustins ) Alternativly you could use a thin super glue the fit between metal and wood would have to be close but not dead tight and just let cappiliary action soak the glue down the rod. One benefit of the thin super glue is that it soaks into the wood and helps strnghten it. How much tolerence you'll need you'll have to try out viscosity of the glue is going to vary. Whats the tool for ?
Cheers

Andrew

Voicecoil
13-04-2019, 09:44 AM
All the above is sound advice - all I'll add is to make sure the metal part is properly degreased, otherwise adhesion won't be great.

JEK5019
15-04-2019, 01:16 PM
Hi Jon
Most good quality 2 part epoxy's will do the job. Use the slow setting ones they set stronger and give you more working time. A couple of grooves will be more than enough to stop the rod pulling out although I would recommend some flats on the metal if there is going to be any torque on the metal just in case. Rough sanding or bad turning techniqe would probably improve the adhesion of the epoxy. A good trick is to warm the metal and epoxy which will make it thin and runny. Maybe a thin groove the length of the rod will help the epoxy out when you push the rod in otherwise if it's to tight you'll never get it in. Don't forget to use properly seasoned wood otherwise you'll have problems. Some Danish oil would be a good finish (a couple of coats Rustins ) Alternativly you could use a thin super glue the fit between metal and wood would have to be close but not dead tight and just let cappiliary action soak the glue down the rod. One benefit of the thin super glue is that it soaks into the wood and helps strnghten it. How much tolerence you'll need you'll have to try out viscosity of the glue is going to vary. Whats the tool for ?
Cheers

Andrew

thanks for the information and clarity andrew. considering that i have 0 experience in this field - could you take a moment and possibly suggest which 2 part epoxies i might best use?

the tool will be used as a roller - as it will be pressed down. there will be no pulling of the metal per say.

the great waldo
15-04-2019, 01:26 PM
Hi Jon
If you are in Finland this stuff should be readily available
https://www.uhu.de/de/produkt.3950
or West systems
https://www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
The uhu should be easy to find in small quantities, the west stuff will be better if your'e needing more.

Cheers
Andrew

JEK5019
15-04-2019, 02:50 PM
Hi Jon
If you are in Finland this stuff should be readily available
https://www.uhu.de/de/produkt.3950
or West systems
https://www.westsystem.com/105-epoxy-resin/
The uhu should be easy to find in small quantities, the west stuff will be better if your'e needing more.

Cheers
Andrew

nice - thanks andrew!

magicniner
15-04-2019, 04:38 PM
There may be guys that do Metal & Wood and CNC Lathe & CNC Milling but that's not very common in my experience of hobby & small professional machinists.
You might get a wider response to your RFQ if you at least split the woodwork from the metal.

- Nick

magicniner
15-04-2019, 04:42 PM
Adhesive wise, I'd use a Polyurethane Adhesive Sealant, they are used to fix vehicle body panels and windscreens and are flexible enough to withstand a lot of abuse whilst providing a firm hold in an application like yours.

ryghar
16-04-2019, 05:13 PM
thanks for the information and clarity andrew. considering that i have 0 experience in this field - could you take a moment and possibly suggest which 2 part epoxies i might best use?

the tool will be used as a roller - as it will be pressed down. there will be no pulling of the metal per say.

Hello!
I use EA40 from Smooth-on. NEVER had an issue with that. Very good epoxy.
West systems is also very good.

Regards

Sandy Zhu
07-05-2019, 10:49 AM
Hi Jon,

We are a CNC manufactory in China,I'm wondering why not use a aluminium handle? it will be more durable and can be anodized to many kinds of colors.it's also easy to adhere to the metal stem.

JEK5019
10-05-2019, 12:26 PM
Hi Jon,

We are a CNC manufactory in China,I'm wondering why not use a aluminium handle? it will be more durable and can be anodized to many kinds of colors.it's also easy to adhere to the metal stem.

appreciated sandy - however, i'm not interested in using any aluminum in my design.

Ger21
18-05-2019, 06:44 PM
Any epoxy will easily hold that. You can eliminate the grooves, and just roughen up the shaft with sandpaper.

That's how golf clubs are made, and they never come apart, in a much more severe environment.

You just want an easy slip fit, with just enough room for a thin layer of epoxy around the shaft.
And you can probably reduce the length of the shaft by at least 1/3.