Troubleshooting non responsive machine- Mach3/Syil x4

[IhateDoug]

Noob needing a hand to trouble shoot what’s wrong with my machine.

Info

Syil x4
Mach 3

Was working fine up until moving it. Since reconnecting it to the pc - the pc has no control what so ever, as if the the cords not connected.

I have
- Checked all boards have power with a multi meter
-checked the ports configured
-checked the parallel cable is plugged in, checked continuity of cable and replaced the cable
-replaced the pc (was on it way out anyway)
-I jumped the COM and FWD pins on the inverter and the spindle starts (sunfar E300)
-checked the diagnostics screen for life and no limit switch’s show, e-stop doesn’t show, is literally as if the machine is not plugged into the pc
-Just ran the “config check” in Mach3 and seems “output 7” is configured wrong?

Have read through a heap of threads but am really quiet clueless where to start looking, any input would be greatly appreciated
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[routercnc]

What is selected under the motor outputs tab ? Possibly the output error relates to the motor control setup.

[AndyUK]

Edit - Nevermind :)

[IhateDoug]

What is selected under the motor outputs tab ? Possibly the output error relates to the motor control setup.

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[routercnc]

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Not the ‘output’ tab, the ‘ motor output’ tab. Second tab from the left. This is where you set the motor ports and pins to control the motors.

[IhateDoug]

Not the ‘output’ tab, the ‘ motor output’ tab. Second tab from the left. This is where you set the motor ports and pins to control the motors.

Dumb moment sorry - thanks for the input also really appreciate it
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[IhateDoug]

Just noticed that the machine doesn’t have the charge pump connected - has jumper between pin 2-3. Could this have something to do with it?
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[phill05]

Dumb moment sorry - thanks for the input also really appreciate it
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Think you have them set wrong this is from a working machine:

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[IhateDoug]

Think you have them set wrong this is from a working machine:

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Copied yours and still no sign of life


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[Doddy]

Think you have them set wrong this is from a working machine:


Depends entirely on the pin mapping on the BOB - not all are the same.

OP: Let's start from the beginning - you say nothing work. You suggest that you can measure voltage?, so let's concentrate on one signal and see where that takes us.

It would be useful for an image of the input pins, as well.

With all plugged in and ready.

1) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor right key?, if not, can you do so with a "G0 X10" on the MDI? If so continue...
2) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor left key?, if no, can you do so with a "G0 X0" on the MDI?, If so continue...
3) Connect a meter to the BOB pin for X Axis Direction pin (whatever it's called - unfortunately I can only guess without a clear image of the BOB, but pin 17 if your settings are correct). Connect red lead to X Axis Direction, black lead to 0V. (The X Axis being the screw terminal around the periphery of the BOB).
4) After (2) above, either press right-arrow to increase the DRO (X) value, or enter MDI "G0 X10". Measure and report here the voltage measured at X Axis Direction output.
5) After (4) above, either press left-arrow to decrease the DRO (X) value, or enter MDI "GO X0". Measure and report here the voltage at the X Axis Direction output.

(4) should measure either 5V, or 0V, whereas (5) should measure the opposite. You're basically changing the direction signal from one way to the other.

The purpose of this is to verify a number of things. That there is at least basic signalling from the PC to the BOB. That this is compatible with the BOB (e.g. if the motherboard is using RS232-5V signalling and not e.g. 3.3V), that the cabling is good and that the motherboard printer port is active and working. If you can't get this far then we can start isolating the problem(s).

If you can confirm the expected behaviour at (4) and (5), if you can repeat for the Y axis (pin 8), and Z axis (pin 16) (amending the MDI commands of course, and/or different cursor/pageup/down keys).


From the behaviour that you describe - I'd expect that the voltages measured at the (17), (8) and (16) remain constant throughout. This would certainly describe a fault with the interface from the PC to the BOB.

At this stage I'd really like a close up image of the BOB. The image above suggests a ribbon connected to the board, and another IDC header on the board, I can't see what the relationship with this is, but I'd like to understand if you can possibly try the following:-

6) Disconnect the parallel cable. Short the pin 17 on the DB25 parallel port on the BOB to ground. Measure the X Axis DIR output voltage and record here.
7) Short the pin 17 on the DB25 parallel port on the BOB to +5V. Measure the X Axis DIR output voltage and record here.

As before, between (6) and (7) you should see the X DIR output set to either +5V or 0V (I'm guessing that this will take the same sense as the voltage on the DB25 pin 17 input). If not, then the BOB is not behaving as expected.

8) If not as expected, without shorting any pin on the connector, measure the voltage on pin 17 of the parallel port output pin on the printer cable, plugged into the PC and disconnected from the BOB. Repeat (4) and (5) - again, we expect the measured voltage to change between 0V and 5V.

9) If not as expected, move the measurement to the parallel port on the computer. Pin 17 to PC ground, and repeat. If this doesn't change between 0V and 5V.

... and if that doesn't resolve anything, buy my wife and I air tickets to Brisbane for, say 2 weeks, and I'll bring my meter :)

[IhateDoug]

Depends entirely on the pin mapping on the BOB - not all are the same.

OP: Let's start from the beginning - you say nothing work. You suggest that you can measure voltage?, so let's concentrate on one signal and see where that takes us.

It would be useful for an image of the input pins, as well.

With all plugged in and ready.

1) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor right key?, if not, can you do so with a "G0 X10" on the MDI? If so continue...
2) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor left key?, if no, can you do so with a "G0 X0" on the MDI?, If so continue...
3) Connect a meter to the BOB pin for X Axis Direction pin (whatever it's called - unfortunately I can only guess without a clear image of the BOB, but pin 17 if your settings are correct). Connect red lead to X Axis Direction, black lead to 0V. (The X Axis being the screw terminal around the periphery of the BOB).
4) After (2) above, either press right-arrow to increase the DRO (X) value, or enter MDI "G0 X10". Measure and report here the voltage measured at X Axis Direction output.
5) After (4) above, either press left-arrow to decrease the DRO (X) value, or enter MDI "GO X0". Measure and report here the voltage at the X Axis Direction output.

(4) should measure either 5V, or 0V, whereas (5) should measure the opposite. You're basically changing the direction signal from one way to the other.

The purpose of this is to verify a number of things. That there is at least basic signalling from the PC to the BOB. That this is compatible with the BOB (e.g. if the motherboard is using RS232-5V signalling and not e.g. 3.3V), that the cabling is good and that the motherboard printer port is active and working. If you can't get this far then we can start isolating the problem(s).

If you can confirm the expected behaviour at (4) and (5), if you can repeat for the Y axis (pin 8), and Z axis (pin 16) (amending the MDI commands of course, and/or different cursor/pageup/down keys).


From the behaviour that you describe - I'd expect that the voltages measured at the (17), (8) and (16) remain constant throughout. This would certainly describe a fault with the interface from the PC to the BOB.

At this stage I'd really like a close up image of the BOB. The image above suggests a ribbon connected to the board, and another IDC header on the board, I can't see what the relationship with this is, but I'd like to understand if you can possibly try the following:-

6) Disconnect the parallel cable. Short the pin 17 on the DB25 parallel port on the BOB to ground. Measure the X Axis DIR output voltage and record here.
7) Short the pin 17 on the DB25 parallel port on the BOB to +5V. Measure the X Axis DIR output voltage and record here.

As before, between (6) and (7) you should see the X DIR output set to either +5V or 0V (I'm guessing that this will take the same sense as the voltage on the DB25 pin 17 input). If not, then the BOB is not behaving as expected.

8) If not as expected, without shorting any pin on the connector, measure the voltage on pin 17 of the parallel port output pin on the printer cable, plugged into the PC and disconnected from the BOB. Repeat (4) and (5) - again, we expect the measured voltage to change between 0V and 5V.

9) If not as expected, move the measurement to the parallel port on the computer. Pin 17 to PC ground, and repeat. If this doesn't change between 0V and 5V.

... and if that doesn't resolve anything, buy my wife and I air tickets to Brisbane for, say 2 weeks, and I'll bring my meter :)

1) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor right key?, if not, can you do so with a "G0 X10" on the MDI?
Yes dro changes - machine does nothing

2) Within Mach, can you cause the DROs to change by using the cursor left key?, if no, can you do so with a "G0 X0" on the MDI?
Yes Dro moves with left key (machine does nothing

- Really stupid question and I’ve legit spent hours googling but where are the pins? My board seems to be different. Are they the pins labeled “A””X””Y” or are those limit switch pins?
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Really appreciate it and would take you up on that - I’m on Stradbroke island, more beach and less concrete [emoji907]


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[phill05]

Depends entirely on the pin mapping on the BOB - not all are the same. :)


Well I must be very lucky have setup 5 different machines and used the very same setting and they all worked, you live and learn.
Any odds on Lotto this weekend.

[routercnc]

The pins are ultimately the screw terminals on your breakout board. For example in the photo you can see estop and home. It would help if you could upload a photo of the whole board.
You are looking for a screw terminal with the label step and the label direction. These send signals out to the drivers to turn the motors.
So to follow Doddys help touch one probe of the multimeter onto the screw terminal marked direction for the axis that should be moving and the other onto something marked ground. When you use the keys to go left and right that terminal should switch between 0V and 5V.

[Doddy]

Well I must be very lucky have setup 5 different machines and used the very same setting and they all worked, you live and learn.
Any odds on Lotto this weekend.

Lotto?, no, unfortunately. And if I could guess against the odds then I might be bold enough to assume the OP's wiring to the BOB.

Examine https://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hy-jk02-m-breakout-board-overview.jpg for example, that looks to put X Step and Direction onto pins 2 and 14, respectively. The parallel port is configured - not by Mach, but by the utility of the parallel printer interface to provide 12 outputs and 5 inputs. These are hard bound to the whateveritis pins, and most BOBs will present these notionally for particular functions (like X step, X dir), but actually they are only generic inputs and outputs. There's nothing stopping you using a X-DIR for your Z-Step, for example, though you'd be sadistic to try (I did once swap one of the primary axis onto the A-Axis when one output on a BOB failed).

My one issue is that the OP changed many things, but not the BOB wiring (unless he didn't mention that). The pin mapping is... not the last thing that I'd check... but certainly not the first.

I've only had the pleasure of 3 machines, but probably enough architectural changes on two to get close to your five. I know that there isn't a hard pin mapping.

[IhateDoug]

Lotto?, no, I'm keeping that to myself.

Examine https://softsolder.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/hy-jk02-m-breakout-board-overview.jpg for example, that looks to put X Step and Direction onto pins 2 and 14, respectively. The parallel port is configured - not by Mach, but by the utility of the parallel printer interface to provide 12 outputs and 5 inputs. These are hard bound to the whateveritis pins, and most BOBs will present these notionally for particular functions (like X step, X dir), but actually they are only generic inputs and outputs. There's nothing stopping you using a X-DIR for your Z-Step, for example, though you'd be sadistic to try (I did once swap one of the primary axis onto the A-Axis when one output on a BOB failed).

My one issue is that the OP changed many things, but not the BOB wiring (unless he didn't mention that). The pin mapping is... not the last thing that I'd check... but certainly not the first.

I've only had the pleasure of 3 machines, but probably enough architectural changes on two to get close to your five. I know that there isn't a hard pin mapping.

Literally havnt changed a thing - I found the XML file that comes with these and it matches the one I’m using. I’ve literally unplugged it from the power point and unplugged the parallel cable from to the pc and loaded it on to a trailer - moved then plugged it back in again.
Now I think of it the last time I used it it the x axis was jamming and skipping every now and then if that’s relevant.

I’ll be near it in about 15min and will take some picture of the board.



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[IhateDoug]

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[IhateDoug]

Other thing I noticed is this board kinda looks burnt?
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[Doddy]

OP: Thanks, that helps a lot. Random googling of the board name/model suggests that these were boards installed by Syil as part of their standard build. There's easy reference to Syil 3's and 4's having the same board. I wouldn't necessarily trust the info from blind but there looks to be some level of consistency. The following was taken off another thread referencing a '3':-

This might be close!!!
Signal name pin I/O of the Signal
7. X pulse
17.X dir
6. Y pulse
8. Y dir
5. Z pulse
16. Z dir
4. A pulse
14. A dir
2. Spindle pulse
1. Spindle dir
3. Signal 1 relay1?
9. Signal 2 relay2?
12. X home input
13. Y home input
10. Z home input
15. A home input
11. E-stop input


and gives us some confidence with the content presented in the images from the OP's post and the XML file he's using.

I'd still recommend the test that I suggested earlier. Part of the logic there (I have to admit my interest petered out towards the end of the wine glass last night whilst typing away) is to understand the basic operational status of the BOB, the wiring and the PC. I know I've only identified the direction pins - that's deliberate and because these are easily measured with a meter, which from your original post I believe you have. I'd like at some point to understand that behaviour on the step pins - but let's address the easy stuff first. There's another thread of thought - actually my first - which was to trace the behaviour of the e-stop but we only now know the pin mapping of the inputs. For now, concentrate on the earlier tests that I described.

The board looks a bit grungy - but photos / lighting can be very deceptive. Again, the tests above will help understand if the board is working.

The statement that you believed you might have been losing steps earlier - that's interesting - it shouldn't result in the absolute freezing of the machine, nor that the e-stop isn't recognised, but might yet be another problem to be resolved. Let's concentrated first on just getting an axis to move.

Mike

[IhateDoug]

I’m standing in front of it atm with a multimeter - just can not figure out where the pins are [emoji848]

Actually disregard that - they are labeled ‘pin xx’ on the board correct?


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[Doddy]

You're absolutely correct, and I've fallen foul of my own criticism of assuming too much. Looking at the board the axis drives are presented onto the IDC headers (the 16-pin black connectors, 5-of) on the board. Okay, that gives us a bit of an issue to understand how these are wired.

I'm guessing there are at least 3 ribbon cables normally plugged into these (I think I did see this on an earlier piccy).

I'm going to change tack back to the e-stop, but I'll post this for now knowing that you're stood in front of the machine scratching your head. Give me 20 minutes to write up another thought.

[IhateDoug]

You're absolutely correct, and I've fallen foul of my own criticism of assuming too much. Looking at the board the axis drives are presented onto the IDC headers (the 16-pin black connectors, 5-of) on the board. Okay, that gives us a bit of an issue to understand how these are wired.

I'm guessing there are at least 3 ribbon cables normally plugged into these (I think I did see this on an earlier piccy).

I'm going to change tack back to the e-stop, but I'll post this for now knowing that you're stood in front of the machine scratching your head. Give me 20 minutes to write up another thought.

No rush - I got plenty of other broken things around the shed I can stand in front of, when ever you get a chance is fine.

There are ribbons normally connected to them, I removed them for the photo (numbered them to insure they go back in the right place)


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[IhateDoug]

The ribbons go to these black boxes - I can draw a rough wire diagram of helps?

[johngoodrich]

the black boxes are the stepper drivers. they in turn are connected to the motors

[IhateDoug]

the black boxes are the stepper drivers. they in turn are connected to the motors
I’ve tested these before and they had 5v from memory


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[Doddy]

First thing - have you checked the integrity of the fuse, F1, on the board?

Okay, I'm going to post a link to another site that has the schematic for a Syil 4 axis controller board - for no other reason that it will give a good idea of the pinouts of the IDC headers

https://www.cnczone.com/forums/syil-products/114477-syil-sx3-bob-pinout-help-please.html

The pin bindings are clearly different from this BOB to the BOB on the Syil 4, so I cannot determine which pins on the IDCs are STEP and which are DIRECTION, but I can say that these are EITHER pin 1 or pin 3. Pin 2, 4 and 6 are set to +5V (so the step/dir will be driving the cathode of the opto-isolator on the stepper-drivers in the machine, low-side switching). Pin 5 confuses me - it's a common pin across all axis connected to a 3-pin connector on the 4-axis schematic... possibly an Enable signal to the stepper drivers. Now, I would ask for an image of where ONE of the three ribbons plugs into on the other end - Im expecting into another PCB or a module, and I'd be particularly interested any marking/engraving. ...ah, you've posted already. So you could perform the original tests against both pin-1 and again against pin-3 on the IDCs - one should behave as expected, the other won't.

But, now we know more about your pin mapping and an awful lot more about your BOB, I'd be keen to change from looking at motors and more against the e-stop. It's easier to apply some logical diagnostics against and understand the apparent total lack of interface with the PC.

So, starting again:-

1) Establish a supply ground (we know the BOB is AC driven with onboard rectifier/regulator), so we need a signal ground. You've suggested that you have already measured board supplies etc - do you have a DC ground available to you?, I'll assume you have - you can pick one off the GND on the spindle connector, the centre pin on the 3-pin TO220 packaged regulator, or the "-" pin on the chunky capacitor.
2) Establish which is the signal wire on the ESTOP input to the BOB - measure between either wired input on ESTOP and ground, with the ESTOP activated, and not activated. One of the pins should be consistently 0V (according to that schematic), and the other should switch between 0V and 5V depending on the ESTOP button position. Confirm this.
3) with the IDC ribbon to the DB25 connector for the parallel port on the Syil connected to the board, but with the parallel printer cable disconnected, then I'd measure the voltage from 0V to pin 11 on the parallel port connector on the Syil. Confirm that this changes from 0 to 5 or vice-versa on the actuation/release of the E-Stop.
4) Connect the printer cable from the Syil to the PC. Confirm the behaviour of the Estop control within Mach3.

[IhateDoug]

First thing - have you checked the integrity of the fuse, F1, on the board?

Okay, I'm going to post a link to another site that has the schematic for a Syil 4 axis controller board - for no other reason that it will give a good idea of the pinouts of the IDC headers

https://www.cnczone.com/forums/syil-products/114477-syil-sx3-bob-pinout-help-please.html (https://w was cww.cnczone.com/forums/syil-products/114477-syil-sx3-bob-pinout-help-please.html)

The pin bindings are clearly different from this BOB to the BOB on the Syil 4, so I cannot determine which pins on the IDCs are STEP and which are DIRECTION, but I can say that these are EITHER pin 1 or pin 3. Pin 2, 4 and 6 are set to +5V (so the step/dir will be driving the cathode of the opto-isolator on the stepper-drivers in the machine, low-side switching). Pin 5 confuses me - it's a common pin across all axis connected to a 3-pin connector on the 4-axis schematic... possibly an Enable signal to the stepper drivers. Now, I would ask for an image and of the three ribbons plugs into on the other end - Im expecting into another PCB or a module, and I'd be particularly interested any marking/engraving. ...ah, you've posted already. So you could perform the original tests against both pin-1 and again against pin-3 on the IDCs - one should behave as expected, the other won't.

But, now we know more about your pin mapping and an awful lot more about your BOB, I'd be keen to change from looking at motors and more against the e-stop. It's easier to apply some logical diagnostics against and understand the apparent total lack of interface with the PC.

So, starting again:-

1) Establish a supply ground (we know the BOB is AC driven with onboard rectifier/regulator), so we need a signal ground. You've suggested that you have already measured board supplies etc - do you have a DC ground available to you?, I'll assume you have - you can pick one off the GND on the spindle connector, the centre pin on the 3-pin TO220 packaged regulator, or the "-" pin on the chunky capacitor.
2) Establish which is the signal wire on the ESTOP input to the BOB - measure between either wired input on ESTOP and ground, with the ESTOP activated, and not activated. One of the pins should be consistently 0V (according to that schematic), and the other should switch between 0V and 5V depending on the ESTOP button position. Confirm this.
3) with the IDC ribbon to the DB25 connector for the parallel port on the Syil connected to the board, but with the parallel printer cable disconnected, then I'd measure the voltage from 0V to pin 11 on the parallel port connector on the Syil. Confirm that this changes from 0 to 5 or vice-versa on the actuation/release of the E-Stop.
4) Connect the printer cable from the Syil to the PC. Confirm the behaviour of the Estop control within Mach3.

Can a bolt on the frame be used as ground? If so neither have power (I tested bolt to a known power and it showed its power so I take it as the bolts grounded?)
Just my spindle doesn’t have a middle pin and I think I’ve located this capacitor you speak of but unsure where it’s - is?

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I’ve tried a few different things and it’s weird
I used pin 4 on the spindle connector (because it has a green and yellow wire coming from it?) with estop on both are 13v and off both are 10v

If I go from the bolt (is reading different then when I first did it above) with estop on both are 0 and estop off the red one is 11 and the white wire 0



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[IhateDoug]

Estop off

Red wire

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White
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Estop on

Red
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White
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[IhateDoug]

So estop off and disconnected from the pc
White wire to pin 11 is 1v

Estop on is 0

By white wire I mean this pin
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[IhateDoug]

Cable removed from machine
Estop on 1v

Estop off 0


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[IhateDoug]

Machine and cable connected to pc and nothing shows in Mach 3


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[Doddy]

Can a bolt on the frame be used as ground? If so neither have power (I tested bolt to a known power and it showed its power so I take it as the bolts grounded?)
Just my spindle doesn’t have a middle pin and I think I’ve located this capacitor you speak of but unsure where it’s - is?


Okay, I've looked again at your pictures provided, on this one...

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On the Y-Home set of terminals (3 off) there's I think "VCC", "S" and "GND" - with no wires in any. Unscrew the GND terminal post a few turns and put a bit of insulated stranded wire (end stripped) into the terminal and tighten up - this is your ground/0V/whateverIcallit reference point. Wrap the other end of that wire around the meters black probe and insulate that connection - now you're just probing with one hand.

The measurements you've provided from the estop wire make be believe that white is the switch, and the red is the 0v reference. Now that I've realised there's silkscreen printing beneath the terminals you can probably easily verify that.

The one volt measured - surprises me quite a bit, but I'm not convinced that's measured against the correct 0v reference. To drop 4V across the on board pull-up resistors would mean that the logic on board is sinking 2mA into the inputs - feels very wrong.

Okay, from what you've done already - can you reconfirm using the 0v reference from the start of this reply. I do expect that you'll get a more decisive voltage reading on the meter - I'd expect a lot higher than 1V on the white wire / pin 11 as you describe.

Rather than taking images - if you can just rattle off the measured volts - the images are a bit low contrast once they reach the UK :) - also, I guess from what I can see the meter is auto-selecting AC/DC ranges based on it's own determination?, obviously we'd expect DC voltage readings - an AC setting is likely to read 0V even if the pin has a DC voltage on it. I did quickly check - that Fluke looks like a T5-600 which auto-senses AC/DC - not an ideal meter for this but we should get something out of it - but I'm only trusting non-zero voltage readings if the DC indicator is present.

[Doddy]

OP: Sorry, I might have ignored some interesting and relevant info that you posted. I *think* I'm right in my understanding that you've measured from the white wire (that I think you've decided (correctly) is ground/0V and pin 11 of the DB25 connector, and you're getting either 1V or 0V indicated depending on the state of the E-Stop?

If that is true, and I'm being cautious with what I think you're saying and my understanding. But if that is the case then there is something badly wrong on this breakout board. Can you measure the voltage (with reference to 0v/ground on the white wire) - the 5V supply voltage from the voltage regulator. You might find it easier picking this up on pins 2, 4 or 6 of any of the IDC connectors. There's many other places to pick it up off the board - you might be able to pick it off the "VCC" terminal on the Y Home sensor terminal block (I'm assuming that this is sourced from the on board 5 regulator).

Another question - are any (and if so, which) LEDs illuminated on the board?

[IhateDoug]

OP: Sorry, I might have ignored some interesting and relevant info that you posted. I *think* I'm right in my understanding that you've measured from the white wire (that I think you've decided (correctly) is ground/0V and pin 11 of the DB25 connector, and you're getting either 1V or 0V indicated depending on the state of the E-Stop?

If that is true, and I'm being cautious with what I think you're saying and my understanding. But if that is the case then there is something badly wrong on this breakout board. Can you measure the voltage (with reference to 0v/ground on the white wire) - the 5V supply voltage from the voltage regulator. You might find it easier picking this up on pins 2, 4 or 6 of any of the IDC connectors. There's many other places to pick it up off the board - you might be able to pick it off the "VCC" terminal on the Y Home sensor terminal block (I'm assuming that this is sourced from the on board 5 regulator).

Another question - are any (and if so, which) LEDs illuminated on the board?

That’s correct - I’ll double check however.
There are 2 leds illuminated “led1” and ‘led2’


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[IhateDoug]

Plugged into pc
-Estop off
Red 11dc
White 0
-Estop On
R 0
W 0

Unplugged from pc 0-pin 11
-off 1dc
-on 1dc

Cord unplugged from machine
-off 1dc
-on 1dc


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[IhateDoug]

If I go white to pin 3 on the db25 cable I get 5v?


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[Doddy]

All very interesting. I'm getting confidence with your meter. Pin 3 is an output from the PC, likely pulled-high on the board - so measuring it disconnected from the PC at 5V makes sense to me.

Right, let's have some fun. Only proceed if you're happy that you can safely do this with your computer printer port (or at the end of the cable that you can plug into the printer port) - rather depends on whether you can insert a pin or socket (I forget) over/into a pin without cause a short circuit. If you have a spare DB25 connector of the correct gender it's a lot easier.

FOR CLARITY - this is done only with the computer, not with the machine connected.

What I'd be interested in is whether you can connect the pin 11 on the PC side to 0v or 5v. You don't have 5V available as-such on the parallel port, but you do have 0V. A cunning alternative is to use the X-DIR OUTPUT from the PC and use this to drive the E-STOP input, simply - short pin 17 and pin 11 on the DB25 connector - without shorting any other pin!!

If you're satisfied that you can do this safely/sensibly, disable the ESTOP input on the mach3 Inputs, then you can use cursor left / cursor right to change the e-stop signal on the printer port. Use the diagnostic screen to verify the state of this (I've not used mach3 for a long while - I expect you can also see the state of the Direction signal on P17 as well).

If you can verify that, then I think the problem can be localised to the BOB.

[Doddy]

Conscious that OP is viewing this, I need to post the "FOR CLARITY" bit separately...

The above step is on the computer ONLY, without the machine connected.

[Doddy]

There are 2 leds illuminated “led1” and ‘led2’
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Dammit, I was hoping for the onboard regulator to be fubarred

[IhateDoug]

I disabled estop in Mach 3 and have jumped pin 11 and 17

Unsure what now - nothing shows on the diagnostics tab?26293


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[Doddy]

So, my thoughts are - with the other end of the cable plugged into the computer(?) that any output on pin 17 (the X-Direction pin) will be driving the E-Stop input into Mach3. By moving the X-Axis one way you'll set the X-Dir pin to +5V, by moving the other direction you'll set the X-Dir pin to 0V. You might have to do this from the "Run" page/tab on Mach 3... then head to the diagnostic page to witness the setting of the pin-11 input (estop). Sounds obvious, but with moving the axis in one direction, pin 11 input should be active, and in the other direction pin 11 should be in-active. This is just intended to verify the behaviour of the PC/motherboard, and later to verify the binding of the pin to the e-stop input.

[Doddy]

I disabled estop in Mach 3 and have jumped pin 11 and 17

Unsure what now - nothing shows on the diagnostics tab?26293


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Hmmm, the PC parallel port is female - you need to short these out either on the PC port itself, or on the other end of that cable.

[IhateDoug]

Hmmm, the PC parallel port is female - you need to short these out either on the PC port itself, or on the other end of that cable.
Lights light up in diagnostics as it is I’ll do it at the pc and update


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[IhateDoug]

Nothing happens on the diagnostics screen when press left or right


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[Doddy]

Okay, that surprised me.

Can you measure the pin 17 voltage on the parallel port, with respect to gnd (any pin 18 through 25). Again, this is computer-side only.

From the RUN page, slew the X axis left and right (verify with DRO). In one direction you'll get 5V on pin 17, in the other, 0V.

[IhateDoug]

Okay, that surprised me.

Can you measure the pin 17 voltage on the parallel port, with respect to gnd (any pin 18 through 25). Again, this is computer-side only.

From the RUN page, slew the X axis left and right (verify with DRO). In one direction you'll get 5V on pin 17, in the other, 0V.

Nothing


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[IhateDoug]

Actually it won’t let me disable estop, it re-enables it as soon as I exist - I’m disabling estop the selecting ‘apply’ then ‘ok’


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[Doddy]

Okay, so the pendulum of blame swings from BOB to PC.

Now that I know that you're happy patching pins on the parallel port, lets test the actual machine.

With all cables/ribbons on the Syil in place, from the DB25 on the machine (not the PC!), ground the X-Axis "Step" pin (pin 7 to pin 25). I'm assuming here that the pin is pulled high on the BOB. At the point that you ground the pin 7 you should get a single step on the x-axis. Continually breaking/making that connection should introduce further steps. The machine isn't going to launch itself - just move microscopically in one direction on the X-axis.

If that's the case then I think you need to look at the parallel port set-up.

[IhateDoug]

Okay, so the pendulum of blame swings from BOB to PC.

Now that I know that you're happy patching pins on the parallel port, lets test the actual machine.

With all cables/ribbons on the Syil in place, from the DB25 on the machine (not the PC!), ground the X-Axis "Step" pin (pin 7 to pin 25). I'm assuming here that the pin is pulled high on the BOB. At the point that you ground the pin 7 you should get a single step on the x-axis. Continually breaking/making that connection should introduce further steps. The machine isn't going to launch itself - just move microscopically in one direction on the X-axis.

If that's the case then I think you need to look at the parallel port set-up.

I thought it mite of been the pc so I got a new one - the pc is new and the problem remains.

I mite wait till tomorrow for that one - most of my gear is on my houseboat. I’m just rummaging around the shed floor atm so mite wait and go get some proper jumper wires and what not from the boat and do it semi properly tomorrow


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[paulus.v]

You said in your first post that
you have:
-replaced the pc (was on it way out anyway)
-checked the ports configured

Did you actually checked that the Port Address of your new pc parallel port matches the one you set in Mach3 (0x378)?

[JAZZCNC]

Don't know if this as been asked but did you install Mach3 and the parallel port driver or just copy across your old Mach3 folder.?

[cropwell]

The Syil X4s were usually fitted with a Tonman BoB, which I also had on my machine. I gave up with the charge pump. It never worked however I set the jumpers and Mach3. Then the BoB just failed for no apparent reason and I had to replace the BoB and the drivers as the drivers were connected by a ribbon cable. All this is in my post http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7658-BoBbing-up-and-down-like-this.

The point is that if you have the Tonman BoB, you might as well bite the bullet and put in a new BoB and drivers.

[m_c]

You said in your first post that
you have:
-replaced the pc (was on it way out anyway)
-checked the ports configured

Did you actually checked that the Port Address of your new pc parallel port matches the one you set in Mach3 (0x378)?

What OS does the new PC run?

Anything newer than Win7, (aka 8.x or 10), and anything 64bit, won't work with the parallel port.

[IhateDoug]

You said in your first post that
you have:
-replaced the pc (was on it way out anyway)
-checked the ports configured

Did you actually checked that the Port Address of your new pc parallel port matches the one you set in Mach3 (0x378)?

26296

Is that correct or should it be the ‘com1’ address?



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[IhateDoug]

What OS does the new PC run?

Anything newer than Win7, (aka 8.x or 10), and anything 64bit, won't work with the parallel port.

Windows XP 32


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[IhateDoug]

Don't know if this as been asked but did you install Mach3 and the parallel port driver or just copy across your old Mach3 folder.?

I bought the pc off a computer guy, he set it up with Mach 3 before giving it to me so I’m unsure - in saying that Mach3 shows up in the device manager if that’s an indication of the driver being installed- I mite reinstall Mach 3 just to be sure


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[IhateDoug]

The Syil X4s were usually fitted with a Tonman BoB, which I also had on my machine. I gave up with the charge pump. It never worked however I set the jumpers and Mach3. Then the BoB just failed for no apparent reason and I had to replace the BoB and the drivers as the drivers were connected by a ribbon cable. All this is in my post http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7658-BoBbing-up-and-down-like-this.

The point is that if you have the Tonman BoB, you might as well bite the bullet and put in a new BoB and drivers.

I’ll read your post later today, any recommendations on what to replace it with?
Thanks


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[Doddy]

Don't know if this as been asked but did you install Mach3 and the parallel port driver or just copy across your old Mach3 folder.?

Wow. Jazz may have just jumped back in from obscurity to save the day.

OP/Mitch. For information. I was playing this morning with an old XP machine that I'd been previously using with Mach3 and an ethernet motion controller. I was having exactly the behaviour that you described during my diatribe yesterday - no response from Mach3 to any of the parallel port settings. Using both a DMM and oscilloscope I could get no joy from the parallel port, even though Mach3 was configured for parallel port interface.

I've now re-installed Mach3, ensuring that I included the parallel port driver. Immediately there's life in the system. I can measure the X-DIR signal alternating between 0 and 3.3V (note, not 5V.... I'd turned the printer port from Bi-Directional to EPP mode in the computer BIOS, in doing so the signal level on the parallel port changed from 5V logic to 3.3V logic).

Ignoring the e-stop (as OP described - it can't be obviously disabled - but you can set the port# to 0 which looks to effectively disable it) - I can short pin 17 to pin 11 (configure that for e.g. X-Home) and confirm on diagnostic page that I can toggle this with left/right control.

To summarise - even though the parallel port may be selected within Mach3, unless you install the parallel port driver - my experience is that you're on a hiding to nothing.

[IhateDoug]

Wow. Jazz may have just jumped back in from obscurity to save the day.

OP/Mitch. For information. I was playing this morning with an old XP machine that I'd been previously using with Mach3 and an ethernet motion controller. I was having exactly the behaviour that you described during my diatribe yesterday - no response from Mach3 to any of the parallel port settings. Using both a DMM and oscilloscope I could get no joy from the parallel port, even though Mach3 was configured for parallel port interface.

I've now re-installed Mach3, ensuring that I included the parallel port driver. Immediately there's life in the system. I can measure the X-DIR signal alternating between 0 and 3.3V (note, not 5V.... I'd turned the printer port from Bi-Directional to EPP mode in the computer BIOS, in doing so the signal level on the parallel port changed from 5V logic to 3.3V logic).

Ignoring the e-stop (as OP described - it can't be obviously disabled - but you can set the port# to 0 which looks to effectively disable it) - I can short pin 17 to pin 11 (configure that for e.g. X-Home) and confirm on diagnostic page that I can toggle this with left/right control.

To summarise - even though the parallel port may be selected within Mach3, unless you install the parallel port driver - my experience is that you're on a hiding to nothing.

So I uninstalled then reinstalled Mach 3 and installed the parallel driver.

When I started Mach 3 and pressed the rest button - the warning appeared that basically says you estop is on - I pressed ok then pressed the reset button again and the warning appeared again.
I then went into ports and pins and and changed the estop from active low.
Then pressed reset again and no warning appeared however the machine still has no life nor does estop in the diagnostics screen


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[Doddy]

Let's test that the inputs into the parallel port are being read correctly by Mach3.

Use a jumper to short from pin 25 (GND) to pin 10 - on the PC's parallel port...

26297

On the diagnostic page...

26298

Move to 25->11

26299

25->12:-

26300

25->13:-

26301

25->15 (NOTE: skip 14 - that's an output!, not input):-

26302

Confirm that behaviour then we're confident that the parallel port inputs are able to be monitored by Mach3.

[Doddy]

If that works, short the X-DIR pin to one of the inputs, for example I shorted 17 to 13...

26303

Now, by using the cursor left/right and verifying the change in the "X Pos" on the diagnostic screen, I can toggle the state of the pin 13 LED. This verifies that the Mach3 X-Axis Direction output can be set correctly by Mach3. Note, I'm ignoring the X-Step signal because this is a very short duration pulse that won't be shown on the LED status on the diagnostic page.

Ignoring the Step signal - which is critical to this, but noting the difficulty in measuring it. If the X-DIR signal and X-Step signal work then the X-Axis of the machine when plugged in should work and should be under user control with the Cursor Keys. If not, then we move to the Syil.

[IhateDoug]

Let's test that the inputs into the parallel port are being read correctly by Mach3.

Use a jumper to short from pin 25 (GND) to pin 10 - on the PC's parallel port...

26297

On the diagnostic page...

26298

Move to 25->11

26299

25->12:-

26300

25->13:-

26301

25->15 (NOTE: skip 14 - that's an output!, not input):-

26302

Confirm that behaviour then we're confident that the parallel port inputs are able to be monitored by Mach3.

Normal
26308

10
26309

11
26310

12
26311

13
26312

15
26313


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[IhateDoug]

If that works, short the X-DIR pin to one of the inputs, for example I shorted 17 to 13...

26303

Now, by using the cursor left/right and verifying the change in the "X Pos" on the diagnostic screen, I can toggle the state of the pin 13 LED. This verifies that the Mach3 X-Axis Direction output can be set correctly by Mach3. Note, I'm ignoring the X-Step signal because this is a very short duration pulse that won't be shown on the LED status on the diagnostic page.

Ignoring the Step signal - which is critical to this, but noting the difficulty in measuring it. If the X-DIR signal and X-Step signal work then the X-Axis of the machine when plugged in should work and should be under user control with the Cursor Keys. If not, then we move to the Syil.

The ‘m2Home’ led turns on and off


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[Doddy]

Right. I'm reasonably happy that the PC/Mach3/Parallel Port is working at least in part. Of interest, we know that all the inputs are working and at least the X-DIR output.

With the machine connected, earlier, you suggested (or I've interpreted) that the E-STOP control had no effect on Mach3. Is this still the case? (check all wiring is present to the BOB and that the supplies are on). Remember, the E-Stop is a latching switch - typically you press to actuate and have to twist to release (apologies if this is teaching you to suck eggs). By pressing/releasing the E-Stop before I understood that there was no controlled setting of the E-Stop signal within Mach3, and that the signal was stuck either ON or OFF, depending on the active low/high setting within Mach3?

Also, from previous results presented here, you say that the E-Stop control results in the change in state on pin 11 on the Syil DB25 connector alternating from 0V to 1V. In any logic system from 3.3V upwards, that's all logic '0' level.

From previous results presented here, you say that measuring the E-Stop control INPUT to the breakout board switches between 0V and 12V depending upon the switch position. So the control works.

There's one conclusion from this - the BOB is not behaving as expected. The signal path from the E-STOP input (from the switch) to the corresponding E-STOP output (to the PC) is not operating as expected. We're now down to checking that the power to the BOB is correct (and you've confirmed that the LEDs LED1/LED2 are illuminated - which makes me believe the power is on the board). What remains is any ancillary controls peculiar to this board or that the board is defective. Or I've missed something.

I'm going to have a ponder (aka wife's demanding lunch).

[Doddy]

Now I'm confused. Have a look at the electrical schematic here (Syil X4)

https://www.peu.net/syil/X4_User_Manual.pdf

If the schematic is to be believed, the E-Stop button will only isolate the power to the BOB when active, with the E-Stop input to the BOB wired to ground. Is this true of the actual machine wiring? (I think the OP suggested otherwise).

[IhateDoug]

Now I'm confused. Have a look at the electrical schematic here (Syil X4)

https://www.peu.net/syil/X4_User_Manual.pdf

If the schematic is to be believed, the E-Stop button will only isolate the power to the BOB when active, with the E-Stop input to the BOB wired to ground. Is this true of the actual machine wiring? (I think the OP suggested otherwise).

I’m not sure if this is anything but yes the estop is wired directly to the bob - however
There are 2 wires that run from the bob to estop -half way along they are inserted into a ‘plug’ then continue onto the estop.
The plug is male and there is its female companion vacant nearby on another board - is this a coincidence or should it be plugged in?

26314

So white and red go to bob and the red and blue go to estop button


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[JAZZCNC]

Ok just read thru this thread and the fact it was working before moving and no changes made other than new PC then logic dictates the fault is with the PC and the PP port or PP driver. It's certainly the first link in chain that needs to eliminated.
Suggest you go back to basics and start at beginning.
Also some PC's use parallel port cards that are not compatible or work on different address to what's set in mach. Some also only output 3.3v and your BOB could require 5v.

So firstly are you using the PP cable which ran the machine before.? If you have replaced the pp cable it must be a straight thru cable (null modem), pp printer cables are often not and cross over pins so cannot be used.

Next I'd delete and reinstall mach3 and the PP driver with new download using latest driver to elimimate any chance of software corruption. Write down the settings you know worked before deleting.
Re-enter settings in new mach install, don't use the old xml as it could be corrupted.

After this then you can move onto the electrical side. To be honest if not PP Issue then I'd just buy a cheap £5 BOB. This instantly tells you if old one is the issue.


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[Doddy]

As I read it, the PC replacement was after the machine was moved and failed. There's a chance something was damaged, disconnected or shorted during the move. Right now with the images I'm not convinced this isn't a FrankenSyil machine.

OP: Are you the first owner of this?

[IhateDoug]

Ok just read thru this thread and the fact it was working before moving and no changes made other than new PC then logic dictates the fault is with the PC and the PP port or PP driver. It's certainly the first link in chain that needs to eliminated.
Suggest you go back to basics and start at beginning.
Also some PC's use parallel port cards that are not compatible or work on different address to what's set in mach. Some also only output 3.3v and your BOB could require 5v.

So firstly are you using the PP cable which ran the machine before.? If you have replaced the pp cable it must be a straight thru cable (null modem), pp printer cables are often not and cross over pins so cannot be used.

Next I'd delete and reinstall mach3 and the PP driver with new download using latest driver to elimimate any chance of software corruption. Write down the settings you know worked before deleting.
Re-enter settings in new mach install, don't use the old xml as it could be corrupted.

After this then you can move onto the electrical side. To be honest if not PP Issue then I'd just buy a cheap £5 BOB. This instantly tells you if old one is the issue.


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I got the new pc as I thought it mite have been a pc issue - same problem with the original pc.

Have reinstalled Mach3 with driver - I’ll try again + entering settings not XML file.

Also just tried the original cable and no change.

I’ll order a bob now

[Doddy]

I’m not sure if this is anything but yes the estop is wired directly to the bob - however
There are 2 wires that run from the bob to estop -half way along they are inserted into a ‘plug’ then continue onto the estop.
The plug is male and there is its female companion vacant nearby on another board - is this a coincidence or should it be plugged in?

26314

So white and red go to bob and the red and blue go to estop button


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This worries me a bit. I would NOT plug the connector into the board - from the schematic and the legends on the board I do think that the board terminal is carrying 24VAC for the E-Stop relay, plugging it in could throw 24VAC into the BOB input channels. You've already established that power is present on the BOB which means that the schematic and the E-Stop isolation of the BOB isn't effective (wired).

[IhateDoug]

As I read it, the PC replacement was after the machine was moved and failed. There's a chance something was damaged, disconnected or shorted during the move. Right now with the images I'm not convinced this isn't a FrankenSyil machine.

OP: Are you the first owner of this?

Not, I bought it second hand.

Also I just read the thread that was linked above and seems it’s not a simple task to replace the bob, they don’t make the one I have anymore ?
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7658-BoBbing-up-and-down-like-this


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[JAZZCNC]

That board is the spindle board. The connector is the enable and is being used to signal E-stop occured. The pins could just be jumped and it would work.

If your 100% sure BOB is getting signals then start by making sure power is getting to the Bob.
The schematic shows that the E-stop controls a relay which provides 12v to power the BOB and the spindle board. The E-stop on the BOB is just shorted to Gnd and isn't actually used thru a E-Stop button.

This is a simple BOB and should work if provided with power and signals. Nothing else external controls it's functions ie: enable, charge pump etc.
If its getting power/signals and your pin settings are correct then it will work. So if it's not then call it dead and move on.


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[Doddy]

Sorry, I know more questions than answers. That board that presents the connector similar to the ESTOP connector - there's three wires - L, N and FG wired up. Is there ANYTHING else wired to that board?

This is really looking like a FrankenSyil machine. That board ("Main Board") is the primary supplies for the rest of the "normal" X4 as well as the 3-phase controller for the brushless spindle motor. None of that appears to be wired. If that's the case, it's not necessarily a bad thing but might help us understand how much of the standard Syil configuration can be ignored. Right now I'm half convinced you can lose that board.

[IhateDoug]

Sorry, I know more questions than answers. That board that presents the connector similar to the ESTOP connector - there's three wires - L, N and FG wired up. Is there ANYTHING else wired to that board?

This is really looking like a FrankenSyil machine. That board ("Main Board") is the primary supplies for the rest of the "normal" X4 as well as the 3-phase controller for the brushless spindle motor. None of that appears to be wired. If that's the case, it's not necessarily a bad thing but might help us understand how much of the standard Syil configuration can be ignored. Right now I'm half convinced you can lose that board.

The bob is powered from it - the red wire coming from it goes to the ‘com’ pin on bob.

I recall the guy I bought it from saying he installed a different spindle in it if that’s useful info


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[IhateDoug]

I’m guessing there should be a fuse here?
26315


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[JAZZCNC]

Knowing now that its never worked for you then You need to go back to basics and just get the machine talking to mach3 So it moves the axis.
That board is a spindle board and won't affect anything but the spindle so dont worry about that now.

In it's basic form all you need to get machine moving is to connect drives to Bob and provide power. Limits', e-estop and everything else can be left disconnected.

Then in mach3 just set correct step n direction pins for each drive in motor outputs. You can ignore any input/outputs as they only apply if being used. you will have to toggle estop active high/low so mach resets.

When you have movement then you can start putting the limits etc back into use.

Trying to trouble shoot a machine you know nothing about is like fubbling around in dark. Better to just start again at the beggining.





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[Clive S]

Trying to trouble shoot a machine you know nothing about is like fubbling around in dark. Better to just start again at the beggining.



Is this like when you are 12 :cower:

[JAZZCNC]

Is this like when you are 12 :cower:Ye and I'm still fubbling around in dark which is very different to fumbling.[emoji1787]

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[Lee Roberts]

Ye and I'm still fubbling around in dark which is very different to fumbling.[emoji1787]

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Hey Dean, good to see you back on the forum, hope your keeping well :thumsup:

[mekanik]

Nice to have you back Dean.
Mike

[MDemerse]

This may be a dumb question, but have you consulted your manual? Or do you still have a copy? If not, there's a copy available here (https://www.axcontrol.com/blog/2019/07/06/when-youve-lost-documentation-for-a-legacy-system/).

[IhateDoug]

Knowing now that its never worked for you then You need to go back to basics and just get the machine talking to mach3 So it moves the axis.
That board is a spindle board and won't affect anything but the spindle so dont worry about that now.

In it's basic form all you need to get machine moving is to connect drives to Bob and provide power. Limits', e-estop and everything else can be left disconnected.

Then in mach3 just set correct step n direction pins for each drive in motor outputs. You can ignore any input/outputs as they only apply if being used. you will have to toggle estop active high/low so mach resets.

When you have movement then you can start putting the limits etc back into use.

Trying to trouble shoot a machine you know nothing about is like fubbling around in dark. Better to just start again at the beggining.





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I’m abit lost sorry - I thought the bob was the issue? The machine has worked, I’ve used it for about a year- the problem came after moving it.

Would I be correct to say I need a new bob and motor drivers?

[AndyUK]

Never mind I wrote something after skipping a few pages.... :/

[IhateDoug]

Never mind I wrote something after skipping a few pages.... :/

No stress mate- would something like this be any good?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2 F401808748123


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[paulus.v]

I’m abit lost sorry - I thought the bob was the issue? The machine has worked, I’ve used it for about a year- the problem came after moving it.

Would I be correct to say I need a new bob and motor drivers?

No. Unless you really want/need to make an upgrade. I doubt you have fried your motor drivers.

Could you start again troubleshooting the signal, starting from your computer?

First measure the parallel port pin output voltages to see if mach3 outputs signal when you send commands and if this signal is 0-5 volt. If not, there's a problem on the computer side. It could be mach3 parallel port driver, computer power management, bios settings.

If mach3 is transmitting and receiving 5v signal through the parallel port then most probably the BoB is the problem.

If you need more detailed assistance in checking the signal I can try to give you a step by step guidance.

[JAZZCNC]

I’m abit lost sorry - I thought the bob was the issue? The machine has worked, I’ve used it for about a year- the problem came after moving it.

Would I be correct to say I need a new bob and motor drivers?This is my point. If all you did was move the machine which worked before the move then it's highly unlikely that the Bob or Drives are broke. Worst case you'll have lose or broken wire.
The fact you changed the pc gives much higher chance your problem lies here.

It's certainly the first place should be looking and testing PP is working.

Regards the machine itself then it's very basic machine so won't be difficult diagnose any fault. However first need know exactly what you have in control box. Or better put how hacked up it's been from standard.?

In it's basic form to get movement all you need is power for bob and drives and signals from PP. Everything else can be left disconnected and replaced at later time when got movement.

Show us pics of inside control box and each of the boards.




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[IhateDoug]

This is my point. If all you did was move the machine which worked before the move then it's highly unlikely that the Bob or Drives are broke. Worst case you'll have lose or broken wire.
The fact you changed the pc gives much higher chance your problem lies here.

It's certainly the first place should be looking and testing PP is working.

Regards the machine itself then it's very basic machine so won't be difficult diagnose any fault. However first need know exactly what you have in control box. Or better put how hacked up it's been from standard.?

In it's basic form to get movement all you need is power for bob and drives and signals from PP. Everything else can be left disconnected and replaced at later time when got movement.

Show us pics of inside control box and each of the boards.




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2633726336263352633426333263322633126330



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[IhateDoug]

Also noticed these

2633826339


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[Oldy]

I am having a nightmare trying to get an old system running that has been stalled for 18 months.
I had similar ‘nothing doing’ issues, until I found that the pc comma port was NOT set up as a EPP.
Check this in the bios. I had to hold F1 key on start up and then set the port to EPP (enhanced parallel port)

[magicniner]

Also noticed these

2633826339


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If they aren't modifications made since it last worked then they should be ignored as it ran fine like that previously?
It's not uncommon for manufacturers to correct a faux-pas on a board with a wire link ;-)

[JAZZCNC]

2633726336263352633426333263322633126330



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Ok nowhere do I see a Parallel port cable but I do see an Ethernet Cable going to what looks like a Controller board with ribbon cables going to Breakout board so are you sure it's using Parallel port.?
If it's using Ethernet then it won't work untill you set the Ethernet address and it would be Dead just like your experiencing.!

[cropwell]

Now I have seen the pics, I get the bigger picture. The QTCL BoB is a parallel port BoB - BUT - in this case it is being driven by the PCF08094 which is an ethernet interface.

You have two options :-

Set up the Ethernet address as Jazz says (which is the better way to go!)

or plug the QTCL BoB into your printer port with an appropriate printer cable adapter like this one - If you could find one (I am not selling mine!)
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[IhateDoug]

Now I have seen the pics, I get the bigger picture. The QTCL BoB is a parallel port BoB - BUT - in this case it is being driven by the PCF08094 which is an ethernet interface.

You have two options :-

Set up the Ethernet address as Jazz says (which is the better way to go!)

or plug the QTCL BoB into your printer port with an appropriate printer cable adapter like this one - If you could find one (I am not selling mine!)
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The printer port connects to the PCF08094 board - which then connects to the Bob via a ribbon cable ( This is how it was when I bought it and worked).

So are you saying to unplug the ribbon cable that currently connects the print port to the PCF08094 board and connect it directly to the bob?

I have uploaded a video which mite make things clearer
https://vimeo.com/367777645


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[IhateDoug]

Ok nowhere do I see a Parallel port cable but I do see an Ethernet Cable going to what looks like a Controller board with ribbon cables going to Breakout board so are you sure it's using Parallel port.?
If it's using Ethernet then it won't work untill you set the Ethernet address and it would be Dead just like your experiencing.!

One of the ribbon cables connects to the parallel port. The Ethernet cable runs to the control panel on the front of the machine - the board the Ethernet cable comes from is
PCF08094 DS0809
EAST CRYSTAL Rev:1.0

And the one below it which connects to the parallel port is
PCF 07483
EAST CRYSTAL Rev1.1
Ds0807

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[IhateDoug]

No. Unless you really want/need to make an upgrade. I doubt you have fried your motor drivers.

Could you start again troubleshooting the signal, starting from your computer?

First measure the parallel port pin output voltages to see if mach3 outputs signal when you send commands and if this signal is 0-5 volt. If not, there's a problem on the computer side. It could be mach3 parallel port driver, computer power management, bios settings.

If mach3 is transmitting and receiving 5v signal through the parallel port then most probably the BoB is the problem.

If you need more detailed assistance in checking the signal I can try to give you a step by step guidance.

Checked and mach3 is sending 5v through the parallel port


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[IhateDoug]

Seems it’s the breakout board - I bought a cheap one + new drivers - Am having trouble wiring it however there is life, spindle comes on when powered (can’t turn off, can control the speed via the inverter and that’s it and z axis moves up (both keys make it go up), the limit switches are now showing in the diagnostics page and if I home the machine it seems to move in all directions - Estop switch is broken and Will be replacing and the estop button in Mach3 doesn’t stop it - so I quickly pulled the power shortly after it started moving, but seems like it moved in all directions.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200207/41ac2e3b93358bf6cb0ca4b8e384b28f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200207/b38c8556daa418de35984fc2ef08c3cd.jpg

How I wired it

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[Raul]

Seems it’s the breakout board - I bought a cheap one + new drivers - Am having trouble wiring it however there is life, spindle comes on when powered (can’t turn off, can control the speed via the inverter and that’s it and z axis moves up (both keys make it go up), the limit switches are now showing in the diagnostics page and if I home the machine it seems to move in all directions - Estop switch is broken and Will be replacing and the estop button in Mach3 doesn’t stop it - so I quickly pulled the power shortly after it started moving, but seems like it moved in all directions.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200207/41ac2e3b93358bf6cb0ca4b8e384b28f.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200207/b38c8556daa418de35984fc2ef08c3cd.jpg

How I wired it

27352


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Hi all, I am new with CNC, but I have try to get my CNC working but apparently if I don't have the conexions from the board os the picture to the drivers, it is impossible to make it work, So there is any has found the pins and dir conections that I can put on Mach3 to make my CNC from Marchant Dice Ltd. working? See pictures attach,
Do I need to disassemble the box to find out how they are connected?296122961329614

thank you very much in davance for your help, I am going crazy, I can not find any information about this card: Bazyx east crystal pcf 07343 five axis cnc board Rev. 1.4

[Raul]

It looks like I have the old fashion card, but does anyone has the pins and dir conections for the step-motors fo the CNC machine from Marchant Dice Ltd. I can not make it work, and I can not find any information about it, only this post and the card doesn't look the same. Can you help me? see attach pictures 296152961629617