My new machine - Guess the make!

[Pilsbury]

I've been on this forum since April 2020, asked a few daft questions, got my head around what I'm after and have recently collected and set up my new machine.... Maybe you know the chap who made it?..... Goes by the name Jazz something or other.....

Anyhow, after many lengthy emails and conversations discussing needs/wants type of build, this Jazz bloke who also likes to be called Dean has rustled a few part together to produce my first CNC. Feels solid as a rock and weighs more than one too. Me and 3 mates were at our limit lugging this brute into my workshop.

Just like to say a massive thanks to Dean for all the info, the 4 hours I spent with him 'upt North showing me the ropes. Has got me off to a cracking start and he is a top bloke to boot. I'd gladly recommend anyone chatting to Dean to see if he can build something to their needs. Can't see you going wrong really with the knowledge he has.

Anyhow, here are a couple of pics and I even tidied my workshop up all special like.:tennis:

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[Clive S]

I surely hope that you sent him box of PG tips he will appreciate that. 🤔😊🔥

[JAZZCNC]

I surely hope that you sent him box of PG tips he will appreciate that. 🤔😊🔥

Now you know it's HobKnobs that get the most appreciation and you can stick those PG tips where the monkey can't reach them.! . . . Yorkshire tea or nothing..:whistle:

[Doddy]

Too clean :black_eyed:

[Andrewg]

Thanks for posting Pilsbury. As someone somewhat further down the waiting list for one of these machines, I was hoping to get an early glimpse of one on this forum.

Certainly is tidy. But please we want more......photos, video, impressions. Good luck as you take your first steps into CNC

[JAZZCNC]

Thanks for posting Pilsbury. As someone somewhat further down the waiting list for one of these machines, I was hoping to get an early glimpse of one on this forum.

Certainly is tidy. But please we want more......photos, video, impressions. Good luck as you take your first steps into CNC

It's happening Andrew we are working through the list nicely, this was the first out the door, the second one went on Friday. We have machines scattered around the new workshop in various build states as Pilsbury will confirm. It will be worth the wait.:encouragement:

[cropwell]

And I tidied my workshop up as well
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BTW Jazz, Bottom right of the photo is a jar of double cable insulated bootlace ferrules - neater than an uninsulated one.

Cheers,

Rob

[Kitwn]

Very neat! Nice to see Dean using some of the same design ideas as me :cool:
I like the bespoke furniture making the best use of limited space.

I tried to tidy up... a bit.
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[Pilsbury]

Certainly is tidy. But please we want more......photos, video, impressions. Good luck as you take your first steps into CNC

Ok then, more photos coming soon as I’m mid way cutting my first “proper piece” 😉

But some first impressions. Heavy. Very bloody heavy. Sure Dean may correct me, but my guess is 400kg. All parts are heavy duty, either thick steel box section for the frame or milled aluminium....guessing over 1/2” thick. Totally rigid which is key to accuracy and decent cuts. Ploughs through the wood I’ve presented it with and I bet I’m cutting conservatively. Can cut aluminium as shown by Dean’s test piece he gave me. I’ll save aluminium for a later date. Electrics wise, I know little about, except to say the electric enclosure is neat, tidy and well laid out. Certainly not a worm’s wedding!

I’ve had zero mishaps, no broken bits, no issues at all and I’ve done a fair bit of cutting now. But that must be down to my extensive CNC experience (5 hours) 😉

Perhaps tomorrow when I’ve finished my current piece, I’ll post some photos of my efforts so far. Promise to be gentle.... I’ll also some more machine photos

[JAZZCNC]

BTW Jazz, Bottom right of the photo is a jar of double cable insulated bootlace ferrules - neater than an uninsulated one.

Cheers,

Rob

Don't really get the gist of what your meaning by this Rob.?


Very neat! Nice to see Dean using some of the same design ideas as me :cool:

Erm, I'm struggling to see any correlation Kit other than both use Steel and water-cooled spindle.?


But some first impressions. Heavy. Very bloody heavy. Sure Dean may correct me, but my guess is 400kg. All parts are heavy duty, either thick steel box section for the frame or milled aluminium....guessing over 1/2” thick.

Well, Solid Works say 265Kg but I've got a feeling that was calculated using a 3mm wall tube and we have used 4 and 5mm with a scattering 10mm steel plate for things like gantry sides. The aluminum parts are a mixture of 10mm, 15mm, and 20mm. I'm thinking the extra 100kg+ discrepancy could be the powder coating...:hysterical:

I haven't actually weighed a finished machine yet because soon as they are finished I'm trying to get them out the door, just don't drop it on your toe is my advice...:hysterical:

[Pilsbury]

Here is some more for Andrewg as promised. Is there such a thing as CNC porn?

Projects to date shown tomorrow

Dean, the marketing bill is in the post!


https://youtu.be/jnhS8BLZF3U

[JAZZCNC]

Here is some more for Andrewg as promised. Is there such a thing as CNC porn?

Projects to date shown tomorrow

Dean, the marketing bill is in the post!

Mark, or is that Mr. Spielberg whichever you're a super star. The best bit for me was the credits, made me chuckle. . . . The cheque is in the post.

[m.i.k.e]

Very nice, Have fun with it ��

[Andrewg]

:hysterical::hysterical::hysterical::applause:
Thanks Pilsbury, love the trailer can't wait for the show proper to start!

[Kitwn]

Erm, I'm struggling to see any correlation Kit other than both use Steel and water-cooled spindle.?


Dean,
I was, as usual, being slightly facetious, your standards and mine are very different for good reasons. But the key point I had in mind is...

I can't see this for certain but it looks like the fixed rails, leadscrews and motors on each side are all fixed to a single beam which allows adjustment of the rail spacing without upsetting the relative alignment of those elements. It also makes the machine simpler to disasemble for transport and instalation without upsetting the alignment, a factor which would be important if the workshop is in an attic as this one looks like it might be from the photographs, though I wouldn't want to carry 400Kg up the stairs, even in several pieces and I certainly wouldn't want to sleep in the bedroom directly underneath it!

I built my new steel framed machine in this way after having endless problems getting everything lined up all at once on the last of my wood and MDF versions.

Pilsbury,
Brilliant video! I also like the credits, though you might be in trouble for leaving out "Post Production Catering - Wife" if you have one and she brought you a cup of tea during the editting.

[Clive S]

if the workshop is in an attic as this one looks like it might be from the photographs,

It looks to me be put in a timber shed with panels on the internal framing and a window in the left hand side. Very nice machine though :applouse:

[Ollie78]

Looks great, the machine and the movie.

Now can you remove it immediately, I am trying to get on the waiting list for a machine myself and I don`t want too much competition !!!

Ollie

[Kitwn]

It looks to me be put in a timber shed with panels on the internal framing and a window in the left hand side. Very nice machine though :applouse:

Failed to notice the window first time round. A far more sensible interpretation.

I agree, it's a very nice machine. You can see how years of experience have resulted in a design that makes efficient use of material and simplified construction without compromising quality. If I ever build another router I'm going to trawl the forum for every picture of a recent Jazzcnc machine and study them carefully.

[Pilsbury]

Yes, it is indeed a shed. Although the base is solid, slabs, 4x2, boards and ply on top, the machine still wobbles a bit as it’s doing it’s thing due to the weight and swift movements. A job for the future is to move it, cut through the shed base, dig down and fill holes with concrete so the 4 legs each have their own solid pad.

[Andrewg]

Ah, and I was thinking of putting my machine on industrial castors so it could be easily moved forward for 'pass through' jobs. Maybe I should be considering how I bolt it's stand to the wall of my shed for great ridgidity instead!?

[Doddy]

Ah, and I was thinking of putting my machine on industrial castors so it could be easily moved forward for 'pass through' jobs. Maybe I should be considering how I bolt it's stand to the wall of my shed for great ridgidity instead!?

Nonsense :)

My mill is sat on a large steel bench that sits on machine castors (it was to be a frame for a router but I chickened on the build). The castors for moving the bench into position, the mill came later. There's no fricken way that thing moves (I think it's growing into the floor!) - even if I try to move it. Build it heavy :)

[Pilsbury]

Ah, and I was thinking of putting my machine on industrial castors so it could be easily moved forward for 'pass through' jobs. Maybe I should be considering how I bolt it's stand to the wall of my shed for great ridgidity instead!?

If you bolt it to the shed wall it will shake the shit out of your shed! Honestly, these are powerful heavy beasts. With the gantry shifting around it shakes its bulk with it. A solid floor is what is needed in my opinion. And as I see it in a shed situation, a concrete base...... which mine has not got, hence my concrete pads for each foot.

[JAZZCNC]

If you bolt it to the shed wall it will shake the shit out of your shed! Honestly, these are powerful heavy beasts.

That comment just reminded me of a funny story regards a machine build which exactly that did happen.!!

I built a relatively small 600x400 but heavily built machine for a guy who always spoke about his "Workshop" and where it was going, ie in the corner, with the only question asked about being how strong a bench would be needed.? So I answered with "Very and makes sure it's fastened to the wall as these things have a lot of inertia when moving fast".

Anyway, when I arrived to deliver it the workshop turned out to be a box standard 8x4 garden shed, inside it was immaculate with every square inch of space used, with custom made shelves holding every type of jam jar and re-usable container known to man full nuts n bolts, screws, and neatly hanging tools on the walls, etc you name it, a workshop Santa's Elf would be proud of.!

So I looked at the bench and sure enough, it was strong and fastened to the wall, albeit the Shed wall, So I said you'll need to take the stuff off the shelves which he did while I was getting the machine out of the Van. Anyway, I get the machine in and on the bench and while I was setting it up, he started putting the stuff back on the shelves.
I said "Think you might want to wait before you do that because you might want to Re-think those shelves.! Why.? he asked.. . . . Because when this thing starts to boogie your Mrs will think you are having a rock concert in here.!... At which he laughed and that was it. So show him the ropes and I left it with him an set off home.!

Four hours later the phone rang and the voice said " I thought you meant a Rock disco because of the noise, not that fact it would rock the shed, Now I get what you meant about Re-thinking the shelves. My Mrs come running into the workshop to see what the matter was because from the kitchen window all she could see was the shed rocking from side to side" . . .:hysterical:

The next time I went all the shelves had gone and the "Workshop" was substantially reinforced on the outside with buttress's . . .:hysterical: :hysterical:

And on the powerful theme, I've got another "Shed" story.!

This time with a larger machine 4 x 4 router. This shed was a real beast of a shed, concrete floor, railway sleepers for corner posts and structural beams with plywood lined insulted walls with front and rear up and over doors, proper deluxe Shed.!... So no comments from me this time about the shelves but because he wanted the machine right up to the rear door I warned him about watching what he left on the machine bed because if it wasn't fastened down and the gantry caught it that it could shove it through the door. His reply being, I want it there so I can have the door up when using for feeding long stock thru.!. . . Ok, no problem but just watch it because it won't take prisoners.!! . . . . He no longer has a rear up and over door but now has a wall with a large Cat flap due to the fact the machine shoved a sheet of MDF off the bed and through the closed door ejecting both into the garden...:hysterical: :hysterical:

[Pilsbury]

He should have tried my concrete feet idea! Anyhow, apart from the usual bit holder, colett holder, box etc, here is my first proper effort. Lots of learning points to get me moving from acceptable to perfection but I’m now on the journey!

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[JAZZCNC]

He should have tried my concrete feet idea! Anyhow, apart from the usual bit holder, colett holder, box etc, here is my first proper effort. Lots of learning points to get me moving from acceptable to perfection but I’m now on the journey!

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Well, Sir all I can say is Wow, with only a week's experience using a CNC machine you should be massively proud of that and I can't wait to see what's rolling off in a year's time. .:applause::applause::applause:

[Kitwn]

He should have tried my concrete feet idea! Anyhow, apart from the usual bit holder, colett holder, box etc, here is my first proper effort. Lots of learning points to get me moving from acceptable to perfection but I’m now on the journey!

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I'll add a 'Wow!' of my own, that's brilliant. I know the Aztec calendar is a popular test but it's the ability to cut out pieces like this that will fit together properly that really tests the accuracy of your machine's geometry. I'm hoping my own contraption will perform reasonably well in this respect once I finish putting it back together.

Re the vibration: it's the accelerations that cause the trouble (apart from shoving sheets of MDF through doors, of course). Different control software has different properties re how much 'jerk' you get, something to do with how many derivatives of the rate-of-change of direction you put in the maths. I was never that hot on calculus. Reducing accleration settings will reduce the gyrations but slow down your cutting of complex shapes.

[cropwell]

I don't know if it is wise to bolt down a machine which has so much in the way of forces moving around on a horizontal plane, or whether vibration mounts are better. What do the big boys do? ???

I have my pillar drill and Lathe bolted down with M12 studding resin bonded into a 6" thick concrete floor slab, but they don't wallop around the workshop that much.

Cheers,

Rob

[Pilsbury]

I don't know if it is wise to bolt down a machine which has so much in the way of forces moving around on a horizontal plane, or whether vibration mounts are better. What do the big boys do? ???

I have my pillar drill and Lathe bolted down with M12 studding resin bonded into a 6" thick concrete floor slab, but they don't wallop around the workshop that much.

Cheers,

Rob

Not sure either. I wasn’t planning on bolting. The frame itself is very solid and I believe the rocking will be massively better if I can isolate out my less than solid shed floor. If I bolted to my shed floor I think it would be the same. Spring is in that. The feet make solid contact.

[Andrewg]

Lovely inlay in that end grain chopping board, Pilsbury. As Kitwin says also a pretty good test of the machine too. What sort of feeds and speeds did you try?

My workshop is brick, with concrete floor, though overlayed with polystyrene, chipboard and lino flooring. Think I will see how it fairs on a bench (something like this (https://hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html)) before lifting floors or bolting to wall. ( No mine will not come with the stand)

Thanks for sharing
Andrew

[Pilsbury]

Lovely inlay in that end grain chopping board, Pilsbury. As Kitwin says also a pretty good test of the machine too. What sort of feeds and speeds did you try?

My workshop is brick, with concrete floor, though overlayed with polystyrene, chipboard and lino flooring. Think I will see how it fairs on a bench (something like this (https://hammerzone.com/archives/workshop/bench/below20xl.html)) before lifting floors or bolting to wall. ( No mine will not come with the stand)

Thanks for sharing
Andrew
The 3mm EM I ran at 18000rpm and 3000mm/min. 3mm deep cut. Seemed to sound fine to me. But really I have no clue what I’m listening for��. The 15^v bit again 3mm cut and 18000rpm but lowered to 2000mm/minute. Absolutely zero method to my madness!

I hate to poop on your parade, but in my limited opinion, that bench won’t cut it unless you brace the hell out of it. This thing shifts it’s weight around something chronic!

[Kitwn]

I hate to poop on your parade, but in my limited opinion, that bench won’t cut it unless you brace the hell out of it. This thing shifts it’s weight around something chronic!

I was minded to say something similar about the bench.

All this discusion of machines jerking around reminded me (as I briefly mentioned above) of the so-called "s-curve" trajectory planning that uses varying as opposed to fixed acceleration rates. The G2Core software (which will run on an Arduino DUE board) from Synthetos includes this and I had a look at using it a few years ago but didn't persue it. For anyone interested there's an explanation on the G2Core wiki at the address below. Presumably this sort of control is implemented in some of the more expensive software but is not yet used in LinuxCNC, MACH3 or UCCNC as far as I can tell from a search on various forums. UGS will drive G2Core but only via USB I think.

https://github.com/synthetos/g2/wiki/Jerk-Controlled-Motion-Explained

[didineedthis]

Looks like a good solid build.
Am looking into buying a CNC i think i have now found my dream machine :)
What are you using VCarve Pro?

[Pilsbury]

Using Aspire - which is basically the same with some design stuff added.

As for dream machine - seems to be working very well - I think you'd be hard pushed to get better bang for your buck. Give Dean a call or message. Think you'll be on a waiting list. But heeegh, I waited 6 months. Glad I did. Gave me plenty of time to research the hell out of stuff.

[Pilsbury]

I've also updated that little promo video to cut out some of my nonsence rambling. Added a shot of a nice new little toy in it... Thanks Dean:eagerness:

Feel free to use for JazzCNC promotion

https://youtu.be/9XuxA7CI-Nc

[Clive S]

Looks like a good solid build.
Am looking into buying a CNC i think i have now found my dream machine :)
What are you using VCarve Pro?

Welcome to the forum. What is your dream machine ?

[didineedthis]

Welcome to the forum.
Thanks!


What is your dream machine ?

The one in this thread that belongs to Pilsbury :)

[Kitwn]

Thanks!



The one in this thread that belongs to Pilsbury :)

Naahhh. You want the machine that belongs to me.

Oh, sorry! You said 'dream' not 'nightmare'.

[A_Camera]

I've been on this forum since April 2020, asked a few daft questions, got my head around what I'm after and have recently collected and set up my new machine.... Maybe you know the chap who made it?..... Goes by the name Jazz something or other.....

Anyhow, after many lengthy emails and conversations discussing needs/wants type of build, this Jazz bloke who also likes to be called Dean has rustled a few part together to produce my first CNC. Feels solid as a rock and weighs more than one too. Me and 3 mates were at our limit lugging this brute into my workshop.

Just like to say a massive thanks to Dean for all the info, the 4 hours I spent with him 'upt North showing me the ropes. Has got me off to a cracking start and he is a top bloke to boot. I'd gladly recommend anyone chatting to Dean to see if he can build something to their needs. Can't see you going wrong really with the knowledge he has.

Anyhow, here are a couple of pics and I even tidied my workshop up all special like.:tennis:

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Very nice machine and shed, but everything looks so clean and sterile, like nothing has been used before. I wish I could keep my place this clean. OK, my CNC is just as clean, but that's in my normal home office/hobby room/electronic workshop, my other machines, like drill, saw and so on is in a hobby workshop, where it is clean to be a workshop, but not as sterile as your place. I like clean work spaces, so I honestly envy you for the cleanliness.

[A_Camera]

Yes, it is indeed a shed. Although the base is solid, slabs, 4x2, boards and ply on top, the machine still wobbles a bit as it’s doing it’s thing due to the weight and swift movements. A job for the future is to move it, cut through the shed base, dig down and fill holes with concrete so the 4 legs each have their own solid pad.

You can also consider doing what I did.

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/14390-How-I-move-around-my-heavy-DIY-CNC

I would just try to lower it from the castors to the floor and let it rest on some extra wooden blocks. To me it was a big improvement when I did that. It is less dramatic than having to do what you plan to do, but of course, if the floor you have is not stable enough, then you might need to reinforce it, but I would still not bolt the machine to the floor, or to any concrete pads.

[Pilsbury]

Very nice machine and shed, but everything looks so clean and sterile, like nothing has been used before. I wish I could keep my place this clean. OK, my CNC is just as clean, but that's in my normal home office/hobby room/electronic workshop, my other machines, like drill, saw and so on is in a hobby workshop, where it is clean to be a workshop, but not as sterile as your place. I like clean work spaces, so I honestly envy you for the cleanliness.

I have in the past worked in mess. You get used to it. My workshop is small, 120² ft. I’ve got lots in there so it needs to be tidy. At the end of each day I whip round and tidy up. Therapeutic! The next day when I go in it’s fresh and tidy..... keeps my mind fresh and tidy!

[Pilsbury]

You can also consider doing what I did.

http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/14390-How-I-move-around-my-heavy-DIY-CNC

I would just try to lower it from the castors to the floor and let it rest on some extra wooden blocks. To me it was a big improvement when I did that. It is less dramatic than having to do what you plan to do, but of course, if the floor you have is not stable enough, then you might need to reinforce it, but I would still not bolt the machine to the floor, or to any concrete pads.
I’ve seen your incredible machine and post. I don’t need to move.... as you said, my floor is not solid. That’s the issue.

[hanermo2]

Fwiw..
Haas machines are all solid bolted to the floor via adjustable anchors.
Part of the included-in-cost installation is very precisely levelling the machine.
To within about 0.02 mm.

Everything flexes, and the modern machine beds or frames wont be straight unless they are mounted perfectly level. +/-.
And if they cut a part of max size, it wont be perfectly flat, straight, and level to within 0.02 mm guaranteed (which is not so accurate in fact).

A VM6 will cut a huge mold to within 0.02 mm, volumetric, mostly much better than 0.01 mm, no problem.
Linear scales, a 13.000€ option, wont make it any more accurate, but it will insure the client gets what they paid for.

My client was extremely happy, with the VM6 with scales, replacing a machine, chiron, that had been 4x more expensive in it´s time.
Making very very intricate 3d molds in steel, maybe 3000 kg each, that really needed to be accurate.

The molds cost about 250.000 € each, and need to have errors of no less than 0.04 mm, otherwise it shows in the final product.
A truck bumper might need upto 8 pieces with 8 molds.

I´m on the ethical edge with disclosure.
The general parameters above are known to anyone making molds industrially.
It´s not right to go into any more details -- most of which I don´t even know.

0.02 mm volumetrically is hard to do.
On a single axis, a short distance, it is trivial.
Anyone local cutting keys for locks does that.

The difference is about ...
2x-3x the distance, 3x, so 3x pwr 3 = 27,
times 3 axes, 81 times less rigid/accurate.

[A_Camera]

Fwiw..
Haas machines are all solid bolted to the floor via adjustable anchors.
Part of the included-in-cost installation is very precisely levelling the machine.
To within about 0.02 mm.

Everything flexes, and the modern machine beds or frames wont be straight unless they are mounted perfectly level. +/-.
And if they cut a part of max size, it wont be perfectly flat, straight, and level to within 0.02 mm guaranteed (which is not so accurate in fact).

A VM6 will cut a huge mold to within 0.02 mm, volumetric, mostly much better than 0.01 mm, no problem.
Linear scales, a 13.000€ option, wont make it any more accurate, but it will insure the client gets what they paid for.

My client was extremely happy, with the VM6 with scales, replacing a machine, chiron, that had been 4x more expensive in it´s time.
Making very very intricate 3d molds in steel, maybe 3000 kg each, that really needed to be accurate.

The molds cost about 250.000 € each, and need to have errors of no less than 0.04 mm, otherwise it shows in the final product.
A truck bumper might need upto 8 pieces with 8 molds.

I´m on the ethical edge with disclosure.
The general parameters above are known to anyone making molds industrially.
It´s not right to go into any more details -- most of which I don´t even know.

0.02 mm volumetrically is hard to do.
On a single axis, a short distance, it is trivial.
Anyone local cutting keys for locks does that.

The difference is about ...
2x-3x the distance, 3x, so 3x pwr 3 = 27,
times 3 axes, 81 times less rigid/accurate.

...which confirms my conclusions in this thread (http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/14390-How-I-move-around-my-heavy-DIY-CNC) about permanently keeping a CNC on castors. Bolting may be necessary for that machine, and I am sure it is, but even for hobby machines, a solid base is necessary, even if not bolted, and that can not be provided if the machine is resting on rubber, silicon, or plastic wheels. They simply can never provide enough stability for the use case.

[A_Camera]

I’ve seen your incredible machine and post. I don’t need to move.... as you said, my floor is not solid. That’s the issue.

I just mean that in my experience, moving the machine may be necessary, if for nothing else, for cleaning behind, or when something is dropped which can't be reached otherwise. I think if a machine is bolted it should have enough space around it on all sides. Anyway, the concrete pads idea may be good, but it is a bigger job. I'd still start with the simpler thing first, and would remove the castors and let the machine rest on wooden blocks or a thick wooden plank, like a beam. Maybe that would distribute the forces more than enough and would still give you improvements and stability. As it is now, the actual surface your 400kg machine is resting on is extremely small and all that mass plus the extra force generated by the movements is transferred to the floor through that small surface contact. If you increase the surface which is touching the floor you distribute the forces in a better way. But of course, you will get the best stability of you bolt it to the concrete pads, so if you KNOW you never need to move it, then it is a good idea in my opinion.

[JAZZCNC]

I'd still start with the simpler thing first, and would remove the castors

The machine isn't sat on castors, it sits on 80mm Dia adjustable machine feet.

[A_Camera]

The machine isn't sat on castors, it sits on 80mm Dia adjustable machine feet.

Thanks. Looking now on a bigger screen I can see that clearly now.

[didineedthis]

Using Aspire - which is basically the same with some design stuff added.

As for dream machine - seems to be working very well - I think you'd be hard pushed to get better bang for your buck. Give Dean a call or message. Think you'll be on a waiting list. But heeegh, I waited 6 months. Glad I did. Gave me plenty of time to research the hell out of stuff.

I have now placed an order with Dean, 6 months it is :)

[Pilsbury]

Worth the wait. What size have you gone for?

[didineedthis]

Worth the wait.
Yes mate i would rather wait for 6 months and get what i want as it does look like a solid build

What size have you gone for?.
1200 x 1200 :)

[Pilsbury]

Oh yeah, one up manship! Mine is a mere 600x900. Dean can I order a 1201x1201?!

Here are a couple more bits and bobs I’ve racked up in the last week. Still honing skills but learning all the time. Even went barmy and spent £20 on a proper make bit instead of my Banggood specials! Now that I do not want to break!
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29605
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29607

[Kitwn]

Here are a couple more bits and bobs I’ve racked up in the last week.

You're getting the hang of this aren't you! I think we need one of your splendid videos in the form of a quick tutorial. I could win a bucket of Brownie points with one of those chopping boards.

Kit

[didineedthis]

I think we need one of your splendid videos in the form of a quick tutorial..

Kit

I would second that :)

[Pilsbury]

I could rack up a tutorial but couldn’t really claim it’s my idea. I’m a YouTube cnc expert! I basically watch more knowledgeable people do things and then bastardise it to do my thing.

[Kitwn]

I could rack up a tutorial but couldn’t really claim it’s my idea. I’m a YouTube cnc expert! I basically watch more knowledgeable people do things and then bastardise it to do my thing.

I think that describes most of us. So who's existing online stuff would you recommend for providing the 'Instant Genius' effect?

I see you use Vectric which I think is seen as the go-to package for this kind of work. Fortunately the Men's Shed in my new home town decided to buy Vectric Pro to go with their newly aquired router so I have access to it if I borrow one of their laptops.

Kit

[Pilsbury]

So who's existing online stuff would you recommend for providing the 'Instant Genius' effect?


Well, the stuff I like...... I suppose the king of it from what I’ve seen on youtube is broinwood. This little video sparked my interest in cnc. I’m still trying to work out his settings for the super fine detail. Half of me wonders if it’s his wood choice. American black walnut with maple. I believe these are much tighter grained than the cheaper woods I use making a better cut. But wood here in the uk is super expensive. I recon that amount of ABW and maple would cost me nearly £200! As a newbie I can’t make a mistake on that so shan’t be blowing that cash. Plus if I were to be spending that money I’d want a pretty penny for the result. Broinwood has a huge audience and could sell these for £750 all day long. I don’t.
https://youtu.be/w51KsS7slmk

[JAZZCNC]

Broinwood has a huge audience and could sell these for £750 all day long. I don’t.

Yeah, but your routers much better than his.:victorious:

[Andrewg]

Thanks for that youtube recommendation, I had not seen him before. The guy I had seen doing this on youtube is mtmwood.
https://youtube.com/c/mtmwood.

Did you catch where he states that such a chopping board takes him 3weeks if he isn't working on anything else! So £750 is pretty cheap. You are right that the right timber is important and not cheap.....untill you start charging for your time, which then quickly swamps the material costs!

[Pilsbury]

Yeah, but your routers much better than his.:victorious:

I think you are probably right. It’s a shame the bloke operating it is a plonker.

[Pilsbury]

Thanks for that youtube recommendation, I had not seen him before. The guy I had seen doing this on youtube is mtmwood.
https://youtube.com/c/mtmwood.

Did you catch where he states that such a chopping board takes him 3weeks if he isn't working on anything else! So £750 is pretty cheap. You are right that the right timber is important and not cheap.....untill you start charging for your time, which then quickly swamps the material costs!

Yes, mtmwood is another classic. Love watching that kind of stuff. Mesmerising.

Need to step up my game.

[JAZZCNC]

Yes, mtmwood is another classic. Love watching that kind of stuff. Mesmerising.

Need to step up my game.

Just be mindful that they have both been doing this for many years and I'd bet my left gonad they didn't make the things you have within just a few weeks of ever using a CNC machine, so don't be so hard on your self, you are doing amazing..:applause:

[Pilsbury]

Just be mindful that they have both been doing this for many years and I'd bet my left gonad they didn't make the things you have within just a few weeks of ever using a CNC machine, so don't be so hard on your self, you are doing amazing..:applause:

Patience is not one of my virtues! But I’m currently trying some other things to expand my knowledge and experience. Just over a month in now and think I’ve got to know the machine pretty well although I feel I’m using it to just a fraction of its ability. Want to try some parametric furniture next. Then who knows what. Need to find some more you tubers to inspire me!

[Kitwn]

Well, the stuff I like...... I suppose the king of it from what I’ve seen on youtube is broinwood. This little video sparked my interest in cnc. I’m still trying to work out his settings for the super fine detail. Half of me wonders if it’s his wood choice. American black walnut with maple. I believe these are much tighter grained than the cheaper woods I use making a better cut. But wood here in the uk is super expensive. I recon that amount of ABW and maple would cost me nearly £200! As a newbie I can’t make a mistake on that so shan’t be blowing that cash. Plus if I were to be spending that money I’d want a pretty penny for the result. Broinwood has a huge audience and could sell these for £750 all day long. I don’t.
https://youtu.be/w51KsS7slmk

That chopping board is amazing. I can see that it would take time to get all the settings, tool choice etc. just right to be able to turn out that quality of work but once you have...

Kit

[Andrewg]

Well I've joined the club, collecting my JAZZCNC JZR9060 at the weekend. Dean and son Jarad were so generous with their time running me through all the basic processes to get 'the beast' to dance to my will before sending me on my way with it wedged in the back of my car.

Immensely impressed with the engineering of these machines, it is built to do the job intended but as a result is no lightweight. Glad after suggestions earlier in this thread I had abandoned the idea of casters, and built a robust stand.(tip 1).

Tip 2 for those of us who don't move machine tools about on a regular basis, an engine crane is what you need, so bother any home car mechanics you know or hire one. It even fitted in my small side shed, where by shear luck it's legs fitted between the legs of the stand for a graceful dismount. So much more sedate than trying to get four burley friends to bench press it up there!

So much to learn and master, but great to be moving from pipedreams to practical. Pilsbury's progress has been rather swan like, where as I expect mine will be duck like with more splashing about.

The good news is that Dean already has a second batch in the pipeline.....the bad news is that I believe almost half of them are spoken for already.

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[Clive S]

Is it one of his vertical machines :highly_amused:

I think you will be very pleased with and have many happy years of fun with it. :congratulatory:

[Kitwn]

Pilsbury's progress has been rather swan like, where as I expect mine will be duck like with more splashing about.
But with a machine like that and all the resources of MYCNCUK to help, you'll be soaring like an eagle in no time!

Wow, I can talk crap at times!!! What sort of things do you plan to make with it?

Kit

[Andrewg]

Wow, I can talk crap at times!!! What sort of things do you plan to make with it?
Kit

No problem, though perhaps you should make that one your last!:beer:

Short answer - Everything
Longer answer - the first aim is small wood item to use up my offcuts and learn. Then integrate it into my chair making, to both reduce my reliance on templates that are taking over my loft, cut precision joinery and add personalisation......and then who knows......

[Pilsbury]

I thought you had longer to wait Andrew..... Glad to hear you have your machine on the way - we need to see some projects!

[JAZZCNC]

I thought you had longer to wait Andrew..... Glad to hear you have your machine on the way - we need to see some projects!

We are cracking on nicely now, working our way down the list to get people making chips, and nearly at the end, then we start on the next list...Lol

[Andrewg]

I thought you had longer to wait Andrew..... Glad to hear you have your machine on the way - we need to see some projects!

Well not quite ready to knock out an inlaid end grain chopping board! But got some time this weekend to try stuff out. Making simple small boxes to play about with feeds and speeds, climb vs conventional and tolerances on the lid fitting. Once sorted they take only 1.5min to knock out......the external clean up takes longer! Need a fixture so the machine can do that too I guess.

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Dust collection needs work...hose tie wrapped to spindle whilst I wait for dust boot to arrive.

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[pippin88]

Well not quite ready to knock out an inlaid end grain chopping board! But got some time this weekend to try stuff out. Making simple small boxes to play about with feeds and speeds, climb vs conventional and tolerances on the lid fitting. Once sorted they take only 1.5min to knock out......the external clean up takes longer! Need a fixture so the machine can do that too I guess.

29720

Dust collection needs work...hose tie wrapped to spindle whilst I wait for dust boot to arrive.

29721That is better dust collection than on most CNC routers already

[Pilsbury]

Nice little boxes! I made one early on and it’s amazing to see how the cnc just churns it out perfect. Imagine trying to carve that! And I like your articulated dust collection bracket. Dust boots are a must. I’m already envious - Stupidly went for 68mm downpipe where my dust extractor takes 100mm so my flow is restricted. Should have done what you did with drainage pipe to maintain the size. I recon my dust collection gets 99% of the chips. Only realise how necessary it is when I forget to turn it on.

[Andrewg]

Nice little boxes! I made one early on and it’s amazing to see how the cnc just churns it out perfect. Imagine trying to carve that! And I like your articulated dust collection bracket. Dust boots are a must. I’m already envious - Stupidly went for 68mm downpipe where my dust extractor takes 100mm so my flow is restricted. Should have done what you did with drainage pipe to maintain the size. I recon my dust collection gets 99% of the chips. Only realise how necessary it is when I forget to turn it on.

Yes there is nothing like skimming your MDF spoil board level to learn the importance of dust collection! And yes that 68mm pipe will be killing your air flows. Presume you have a vacuum cleaner style HPLV collector, as for HVLP like mine 100mm is about the minimum.... personally can't stand the noise of a vacuum cleaner for long, especially when the machine is so quiet!

[Pilsbury]

Hplv, hvlp..... not sure. A record power twin motor jobbie, but yes, more like a large vacuum cleaner rather than those chip collector things.

As for machine being quiet, sure is. However my longer bits make a hell of a noise. I bought a 6mm compression EM with a 40mm cut capacity. Screams like hell even in softwood. No amount of spindle speed and feedrate fettling will stop it.

[Pilsbury]

Just thought I’d share another different thing I’ve just tried out. Turned out pretty well. Going to move on to carving now. Seems there’s lots to take in to get a good result. Think it’s called 2.5D opposed to 3D? Ball nose end mills on order!
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[Kitwn]

Very clever! Is that layered construction your own idea or do you have a link to a source of other similar designs?

Kit

[Pilsbury]

Purchased file for a couple of quid. Just that letter as a test. PM sent.

[Pilsbury]

I know I’m double posting this carving (already in the tooling section) but I thought I’d share it again in this post to keep my first efforts together.

Here is my first test carving, ready to try a bigger version in the near future. I recon if I hit a 500x800 piece it would take near 24 hours. Time to get a camp bed in the workshop!

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[JAZZCNC]

Looks good Mark, for the long job's If you don't want to run for long periods you have a couple of options.

#1 Put the machine into "feed hold" turn the spindle off and leave the PC switched on overnight. Just remember to switch the spindle back on before resuming from "feed hold"

#2 Put into feed hold, take a note of line number then you can shut down PC and do a "Run from here" when you restart. The work offset will automatically be saved by UCCNC and after homing the machine the "run from here " will get you back into position.

In both cases, it's a good idea to "feed hold" when the code is doing move off the material ie: G0 move. This way it won't leave a tool mark on the material when the spindle starts back up. However, if you can't catch it in a G0 move then do it in an area where it's easily sanded or won't show.
It's also a good idea to do the "run from here" a few lines back from the actual line number it stopped on, this way it will help blend in any tool marks.

My preferred option would be "run from here" because you can spread large jobs over a few days and it's a lot less stress on the machine, spindle, tooling, dust extractor and PC.

[Pilsbury]

Cheers for that Dean. I’ve used feed hold several times so far, mainly when I’ve spotted my hold down clamping is not great so I can tighten up.

I also like your advice on not leaving the machine alone overnight. Apart from it getting lonely, I can see the issues if the pc has a hissy fit and stops sending code with the spindle still moving at 20,000rpm.

Perhaps a multi day cut is the way forward.

[JAZZCNC]

Cheers for that Dean. I’ve used feed hold several times so far, mainly when I’ve spotted my hold down clamping is not great so I can tighten up.

Yes it's handy but "run from here" is a job saver when a tool breaks or shit hits the fan or clamps, and very handy for long jobs which you want to break down into parts over a few sessions. Something worth playing with as it's very handy.


I also like your advice on not leaving the machine alone overnight. Apart from it getting lonely, I can see the issues if the pc has a hissy fit and stops sending code with the spindle still moving at 20,000rpm.

To be honest NO router that is cutting flammable materials like wood should ever be left unattended for any lengthy periods. I know of several people who have set fire to machines and workshops and in one case lost his house because the router was left alone while he went out. Because the machine was in the garage adjoined to the house and he hadn't told the insurance they wouldn't payout.!

Shit always happens when your not watching and a spindle whizzing around at 24000rpm rubbing on wood makes a great fire starter.:cower:

[Pilsbury]

Not the sort of amateur mistake I’d make! You forget, I have nearly 8 weeks of experience under my belt:hysterical:

[Pilsbury]

Just finished my first commission..... admittedly it’s for a family member’s business. This thread is now turning from a “look at Dean’s machine” thread into a “look at what Dean’s machine made” thread!

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[JAZZCNC]

This thread is now turning from a “look at Dean’s machine” thread into a “look at what Dean’s machine made” thread!

The machine is just a Tool and Dumb as a rock, you are the artist who makes it rock, and seeing what you cook up then you won't have any trouble finding work.:toot:

[Kitwn]

The machine is just a Tool and Dumb as a rock, you are the artist who makes it rock, and seeing what you cook up then you won't have any trouble finding work.:toot:

One of the comments I've received more than once when talking about my CNC router is that "the machine does all the work for you". You might as well say that Canaletto's brushes did all the work for him.

Lovely work as usual.

Kit

[BeeceUK]

I joined team JazzCNC on Wednesday and had a great day taking delivery of machine from Dean and his son. They took me through the machine really comprehensively and Ive since had a bit of time getting to grips with it. I wanted a CNC primarily for guitar building so today I decided to jump in and cut a test body. I scaled my model down to 30% in Fusion and set about greating the g code for it. Using a combination of straight cutter and ball nose for the carved top gave me a bit of experience in tool changes within the same job , basic stuff no doubt for you seasoned machinists, but a confidence booster for me, knowing I could carry out the work flow correctly. The machine is a beast !! I don't have much for a reference save for my mates massive SCM machine but my little Jazz 9060 punches above its weight for sure.....

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Now that Im up and running I hope to be able to contribute here and show you some of the things I make on my new journey .

Thanks again to Dean and Jared :encouragement:

[Pilsbury]

Looking good so far beeceuk. You could make that into a violin!

[Pilsbury]

The machine is just a Tool and Dumb as a rock, you are the artist who makes it rock, and seeing what you cook up then you won't have any trouble finding work.:toot:

Thanks dean. But with my blunt Irwin saw and wood chisels that have split bricks, I don’t think it would have turned out quite the same! But I certainly see your point.

Next week is carving week. Got a ridiculous project in mind that Aspire recons is 72 hours cut time. “Run from here” and “feed hold” at the ready!

[Pilsbury]

Another family commission! Just need to break into the real world!

Set of 8 placemats for the in-laws. Over complicated, over engineered but a good practice to hone skills. My father in law commented I should sell these...... didn’t tell him I’d need £500/set for my time and effort!
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[Pilsbury]

So after nearly 3 days cutting, mainly down to my ridiculous tool choice, I’ve finally finished my 3D (or 2.5d?) carving. Added a bit of stain to age it up a bit and hey presto, looks like it’s nicked off the Cutty Sark!
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[Kitwn]

Under the circumstances we'll excuse you the requirement to cut an Aztec calendar to join the 'real men' of CNC.

Kit

[JAZZCNC]

Under the circumstances we'll excuse you the requirement to cut an Aztec calendar to join the 'real men' of CNC.

Kit

Nah that's a test of the machine, not the "Man" and the machine has already done that as it's my test cut...:victorious:

[Pilsbury]

Dean has cut an aluminium one prior to my pickup..... but I too have made an outside table top! Double man.
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[Pilsbury]

I had a bash at a Lithophane last night. Strange thing where the carving looks weird until you hold it up to light. Carved in that engineered stone stuff Corian/Staron

Made another video creation if you’re interested. Maybe some of you have seen a CNC in operation before?! :joker:

https://youtu.be/JeOoTEsQQMQ

[JAZZCNC]

Another feather in your Cap Mr. Spielberg...:toot:

[Pilsbury]

Any more suggestions Dean? What else can you do with a CNC?!

Got a garden table idea to CNC some old parquet blocks up to make a funky pattern.

[Kitwn]

I had a bash at a Lithophane last night. Strange thing where the carving looks weird until you hold it up to light. Carved in that engineered stone stuff Corian/Staron

Made another video creation if you’re interested. Maybe some of you have seen a CNC in operation before?! :joker:

https://youtu.be/JeOoTEsQQMQ

That has to be the best bit of router-porn we've ever seen! Those close-ups!!!!

When are we going to see a tutorial on how to install that pendant and tool setter with UCCNC and where did you get the nice spindle spanners?

Excelent work as always.


Kit

[Pilsbury]

The pendant is plug and play. Dongle in a usb slot and hey presto it works like a charm.

Touch off plate and spanner’s came with the machine

[JAZZCNC]

The pendant is plug and play. Dongle in a usb slot and hey presto it works like a charm.

Touch off plate and spanner’s came with the machine

Well, not exactly correct, we set it up UCCNC before you took the machine so the pendants can be added at a later date if required. This is why it just worked for you.
However, that said it's not difficult, just a few settings in the plug-in and it's working. If anyone needs any help getting one to work just ask.


When are we going to see a tutorial on how to install that pendant and tool setter with UCCNC and where did you get the nice spindle spanners?

Kit the pendant is just a plug-in which you select from the plug-ins and adjust a few settings, it's simple enough to do.

The Tool setter is just a "free to use" macro, I think we got it from the UCCNC forum or some website and tweaked it to suit our needs. I would normally write my own but I didn't have time to mess around and UCCNC uses C## which I'm not the best at so it would have taken me even longer.
Again it's not difficult to get working, just copy and paste job into the right macro and make a change to a few settings in the macro to account for the thickness of your offset (touch plate). The wiring is simple, just create a circuit into a single input.

When I have a little time I will post the Macro.

Oh, the spanners are just 5mm plate cut on our plasma, nothing special.

[Pilsbury]

I’m back! Been off my CNC for a week or so whilst working and knocking up a garden table (home project) ..... but I did manage to squeeze a little bit of CNC into that. Cheeky little self promotion on the ends!! Might as well post a piccie seeing as it did get a little bit of CNC treatment.....

So I’ve had to get a proper fix and bang out another inlayed end grain chopping board. Really need to punt these out. I’ve got more boards than things to chop! Here’s a pic of the finished article and also a link to a video of me making it. If you’re bored and have 13minutes to spare, check it out. :eagerness:

https://youtu.be/4IbnvBNqFeI

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[Pilsbury]

Just remembered. Never posted the finished world map thingy since I stained it. Here it is.... straight off the Mary Rose! Aaaarrrr!

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Edit: Apologies- already posted this!

[Kitwn]

I’m back! Been off my CNC for a week or so whilst working and knocking up a garden table (home project) ..... but I did manage to squeeze a little bit of CNC into that. Cheeky little self promotion on the ends!! Might as well post a piccie seeing as it did get a little bit of CNC treatment.....

So I’ve had to get a proper fix and bang out another inlayed end grain chopping board. Really need to punt these out. I’ve got more boards than things to chop! Here’s a pic of the finished article and also a link to a video of me making it. If you’re bored and have 13minutes to spare, check it out. :eagerness:


That table's a bit swankyer than the workshop bench I've been making today. Looks good enough to eat your dinner off!

I wasn't bored but I did have 6.5 minutes to spare so I watched the video at double speed :highly_amused:

Nice detail of how you make them but my wife thought that particular design 'a bit busy' compared to the tree of life one. Though it does show how detailed you can get. I like the press for geting the two parts good and tight.

My combined birthday present for last year (we were a bit too busy for me to chose anything) and this year is a licence for Vectric Vcarve Desktop so I might start catching you up. between that and the UCCNC/AXBB-E combination which should be operational in a week or so the old machine might have something of a rebirth.

Kit

[Pilsbury]

Vectric software is pretty good - I've not used anything else obviously but it is very intuitative and does all I need. You'll get the hang of it super quick.

The press was a Eureka moment for me - I've learned the inlay technique from watching youtube vids..... None of them really show the press, just tapping the plug into the pocket with a hammer. It's only when watching closely after I've had a bit of experience and after the glue up has dried, you can see how much tighter the join is. No way that is just clamps. So I welded up a little press jobbie to really squeeze the parts together. Makes a difference for sure. I did that design early on with just clamps and it was a disaster.

[Kitwn]

Vectric software is pretty good - I've not used anything else obviously but it is very intuitative and does all I need. You'll get the hang of it super quick.

The press was a Eureka moment for me - I've learned the inlay technique from watching youtube vids..... None of them really show the press, just tapping the plug into the pocket with a hammer. It's only when watching closely after I've had a bit of experience and after the glue up has dried, you can see how much tighter the join is. No way that is just clamps. So I welded up a little press jobbie to really squeeze the parts together. Makes a difference for sure. I did that design early on with just clamps and it was a disaster.

I've had Vectric Vcarve trial for a while and really like it, though I found it necessary to watch the tutorial videos, maybe because I'm so used to how CamBam does things. The clever snap tools are really good for drawing up signs and the like very quickly. I've gone for the Desktop version initially ($500 instead of $1000) which is limited to 600 x 600mm but there's plenty bits I can make within that footprint while I'm getting the hang of it. CamBam is excellent for the engineering type pieces like clock gears etc. but I think Vectric is going to be much easier to use for decorative carving which I want to try.

The press is clearly working well and leaves all your precious clamps available for what they're best at.

Kit

[Pilsbury]

Another family member commission. Very simple letter cutouts - not really the cnc stuff I like - crap mdf, but looks pretty effective. Idea ripped off one of those funky home wear sites. They are punting these out at £135 each with £20p&p. Recon they can’t make them fast enough. Suppose it’s all down to marketing and the platform and reach you have.
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[Pilsbury]

He's back! Been busy as hell and neglecting my woodworking. Just made some drawers for the back of my defender as the dog cage was a mere 0.5" too wide to fit between the wheel arches. So another video to bore you to tears! Lost my mind a bit on this face grain inlay - was in end grain mode and made the inlay unnecessarily deep - hey ho

https://youtu.be/d_uLuqviLoM

[Pilsbury]

Steve P who has commented on one of my end grain inlay chopping board videos on Youtube was asking for some info on my settings. He's on this forum so I said I'd post my workflow on here as opposed to a lengthy post on Youtube comments.

I watched tons of the inlay videos, but never found a totally comprehensive tutorial. I just ended up getting a bit of info here and there to work out what was actually going on, refined it a little, then made some stuff up myself!

So, first off get your design and load into Vectric or whatever your using. You'll make the pocket first. Save this as "pocket".
Now mirror this design to flip it and save as "plug". It's important you don't resize any of these 2 designs now.
Go back to your pocket file and run a v carve toolpath. I use a fine tapered ball nosed end mill something like a 0.25mm radius tip with a 5^ side angle. You can also add a clearance tool which will save loads of time. I just use any old end mill, basically as big as I can get away with to remove the bulk of the material. Often this is a mere 2 or 3 mm as otherwise on fine designs, nothing is removed
I cut this pocket to a depth of 8mm in 3 passes. Generic speed and feed for me is 18000rpm and 2000mm/min in the hardwood. Not sure why, but it works fine!
You'll find there are a fair few fuzzies and blocked carvings that need to be faffed and picked out with a blade and air gun

Now for the plug in a contrasting wood. open up your saved plug file and drawer a boundary around the design. This is so when you run the toolpath, this immediate area is hogged out and it also serves to throw the plug cut with a relief inverse to the pocket. That boundary is also for when its finished so you can cut your plug out of the rest of the wood.
Again select v carve toolpath and use the same bits you used on the pocket cut.
Now here is the bit that warped my mind - flat depth and cut depth..... You need to have a glue gap at the base of the mating surfaces. You also need a bit of gap at the top of the mating surface to cut or mill off. Plus this will let you press the 2 parts together without grounding out. I have used 1 mm glue gap and 2 mm top gap. Another part of this mental torture is that you have to use a few set cuts or the machine will not realise where the top of the material is..... God, I'm not explaining this well - so here are my toolpath depths:

first pass 1.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
second pass 4.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
third pass 7mm (d), 2mm (f)

This results in the plug being the inverse of the pocket. Same applies to cleaning this up, pick out the bits and fuzzies with a razor blade.

Check they mate well, then glue up. I use titebond 3, but any pva type glue will probably do. That titebond recons its waterproof and food safe. Plus the yanks love it so it must be good.

Don't go too heavy on the glue, just ensure all parts of the sides of the pocket are covered. don't leave massive pools of glue in the pocket for 2 reasons. Firstly, the glue might not escape and wont let you press the plug in properly. Secondly which is a real bummer, having a load of wet glue sitting there and soaking into the wood causes warping. I've had several boards properly banana on me from having glue saturate the one side straight in the end grain.

Once the pocket and plug are mated, squeeze the life out of them. So many youtubers show them tapping together with a rubber mallet and there is a massive gap between the 2 pieces. Then, Lo and Behold, when they bring the dried piece back into shot to mill flat, the gap is all but gone and the 2 pieces are snug. Took me ages to figure this out but I assumed this must be a hydraulic press although never saw one being used. Clearly a trade secret unless I'm barking up the wrong tree. So I made one as you can see in the youtube video with a bottle jack.

That's pretty much it in my own garbled way. Ask questions if you want or need to. And for the experienced CNCers, please comment on my workflow. I'm a relative amateur who has plucked all of this from youtube videos and fudged my way through trying to interpret what people are doing without them telling me!

[didineedthis]

Cheers Mark,
Will defo help me when I attempt my 1st Inlay. :hopelessness:



Now here is the bit that warped my mind - flat depth and cut depth..... You need to have a glue gap at the base of the mating surfaces. You also need a bit of gap at the top of the mating surface to cut or mill off. Plus this will let you press the 2 parts together without grounding out. I have used 1 mm glue gap and 2 mm top gap. Another part of this mental torture is that you have to use a few set cuts or the machine will not realise where the top of the material is..... God, I'm not explaining this well - so here are my toolpath depths:

first pass 1.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
second pass 4.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
third pass 7mm (d), 2mm (f)

This results in the plug being the inverse of the pocket. Same applies to cleaning this up, pick out the bits and fuzzies with a razor blade.



This is a good video that explain the gap in detail.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4VMo9DCzO8

and another by the 'Two old guys'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYnO8kSHQ1c
Top Man

[Pilsbury]

Yep - that does a better job than my description. However, I'd like to point out they are face grain inlays. Look great, but as the edges are a very shallow slope, the inlay part is very thin right near the edge and wont stand up to chopping board punishment. Hence the much more acute angle of the bits used to get as near as a vertical edge as possible for end grain inlays.

Those face grain inlays are what I should have done for my Land Rover drawers - no need for such a deep inlay as I did!

[JAZZCNC]

He's back! Been busy as hell and neglecting my woodworking. Just made some drawers for the back of my defender as the dog cage was a mere 0.5" too wide to fit between the wheel arches. So another video to bore you to tears! Lost my mind a bit on this face grain inlay - was in end grain mode and made the inlay unnecessarily deep - hey ho

https://youtu.be/d_uLuqviLoM

Wondered where you'd disappeared too, Jared asked about you the other day and said I'd not seen much of you so you're on my "See if still alive " email list for when I get a spare 10mins... Hence why you haven't had it..:loyal: . . . Nice to see you back at it.

[didineedthis]

Yep - that does a better job than my description. However, I'd like to point out they are face grain inlays. Look great, but as the edges are a very shallow slope, the inlay part is very thin right near the edge and wont stand up to chopping board punishment. Hence the much more acute angle of the bits used to get as near as a vertical edge as possible for end grain inlays.

Those face grain inlays are what I should have done for my Land Rover drawers - no need for such a deep inlay as I did!
Think you got your head around it now lol :) but i Just found this vid on YouTube. This explains the depth of cut in detail
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY0zLv3wcyc&t=1654s

[Pilsbury]

Back once again! I’m not a good forum member am I? So sporadic! But I’ve been busy planning my loft conversion.

Anyhow, I thought I’d try a box joint mini project just to get my eye in for when I need to do something proper.

Used the Aspire box creator gadget and with a little jiggery pokerey it works pretty well. Here is my effort. Looking forward to putting it to decent use rather than a sealed mdf box…. Can’t even burn that on my fire!

https://youtu.be/cdWgKo-65-4

[JAZZCNC]

Looking good mate, nice to see you back again.:thumsup:

[Pilsbury]

So, I was looking for a project that didn’t look “too CNC” but mainly used the CNC!…..

So I used the CNC for damn near everything, even when it didn’t warrant it! Christ knows what I’m going to use this for….. CNC bits???
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[Kitwn]

So, I was looking for a project that didn’t look “too CNC” but mainly used the CNC!…..

So I used the CNC for damn near everything, even when it didn’t warrant it! Christ knows what I’m going to use this for….. CNC bits???
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Or you could build a replica Victorian pharmacy (and make a TV series). Very nice work!

[Pilsbury]

Ha! Yes…. It is an apothecary cabinet. Maybe I can store those miniature spirits and medicate myself as necessary.

[JAZZCNC]

So, I was looking for a project that didn’t look “too CNC” but mainly used the CNC!…..

So I used the CNC for damn near everything, even when it didn’t warrant it! Christ knows what I’m going to use this for….. CNC bits???

Excellent work as a usual mucker, nice to see you are exploring what the machine can do. Could always throw a few draws away and turn it into an advent calendar....:triumphant:

[robrose]

Its too clean to be a proper workshop. No dust, no clutter. Great looking CNC machine.
Mine has just arrived yesterday Genmitsu 3018 prover. Will put it together this weekend and see how it goes. Planning on using if fro PCB's and making hands for antique clocks.

[Pilsbury]

I’ve been out of my workshop for the best part of 12 months doing my loft conversion. On the home straight now with a mere couple of months to go, so will be back trying to think of a monster project to furnish the new room.

However, a friend is retiring from Fire Control and people wanted a chopping board retirement gift. So thought I’d just “bang one out”. Didn’t quite turn out like that as I felt like I had to relearn a load of stuff being off the machine for so long! I even cut the plug the same as the pocket and not reversed. That was a £20 oak mistake!

Here’s the video - from a CNC perspective, half way through is that. The first part is just the making of the boards.

https://youtu.be/1HYHka0fDis

[Pilsbury]

Back again with a new project. This one took several months due to some near disasters with the electronics side of things….. had it all gone wrong it would have been a few hundred quid down the drain…. I never knew what a “smart table” was until I saw a Russian and a Chinese guy make one…..

https://youtu.be/L82zj9mbCQY

[the great waldo]

Your bench is a lot tidier than mine. I won't post a photo as i'll probably get arrested for something or other!!

Cheers
Andrew

[Pilsbury]

Another project completed with corresponding YouTube vid! This project I saw about 3 years ago and was what got me interested in CNC.

https://youtu.be/vgkyNiEMQgc