Refinishing options?

[Ross77]

My Boxford has finally moved up the list of priority list and is in the process of being overhauled and retrofitted with Linux cnc.

Its almost stripped but not sure how to refinish it so looking for options. ideally i want to send it out for blasting and powder coat but think it might be too big and pricey.

What are the brush/roller enamel paints like ? can you get a good finish and do they last?

[Doddy]

You can certainly get a bad finish - I can attest to that. Mind you I can only pick up the right end of a brush 50% of the time. What I'm saying is, you certainly have to know what you're doing and prep well. They do last well though (at least my dried-on drips refuse to leave the machine).

[Voicecoil]

I've had some reasonable results painting stuff myself, but the most durable results have always been when I've been able to dry the paint at elevated temperature or used 2 pack formulations.

[depronman]

I've had some reasonable results painting stuff myself, but the most durable results have always been when I've been able to dry the paint at elevated temperature or used 2 pack formulations.

Plus one for the two pack paint. Much much more durable. Use it outside and keep up wind and a normal ppe mask is ok for occasional use
If you can pick a warm day even better. Etch primer is also a must


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[m_c]

You probably don't want to get it blasted, as machines of that era often used a layer of filler to smooth the castings.

Good degrease, sand back, and some machine enamel usually provides good results.

[Ross77]

Thanks for the advice. I couldn't upload any photos last night but it is a Boxfod 250F with the sheet steel enclosure. the lathe would be fully removed.

However I think have underestimated how heavy it is even when empty and will be a mare to transport and work on.

Probably going to scrape/sand down and then spray or roller with enamel.

Is the tractol paint any good? or stick with Paragon

29707

[Doddy]

I think I've established my credentials as a paint drip installation technician. But faced with that I'd be exploring spray-gun technologies. Paragon is good and well established. Never heard of, or tried Tractol.

[m_c]

Tractol is an enamel paint, and traditionally popular amongst tractor owners.
There are quite a few suppliers of enamel paint.

Somewhat topical - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/paragon-paints-gloss-or-semi-gloss.110427/
awemawson is someone I know who loves to refurbish machines, and has discussed paint types on at least one of his threads on madmodder if you want to lose an hour or two down that rabbit hole.

For sheet work, I'd either be looking at spraying, or foam roller.

[Ross77]

Somewhat topical - https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/paragon-paints-gloss-or-semi-gloss.110427/
awemawson is someone I know who loves to refurbish machines, and has discussed paint types on at least one of his threads on madmodder if you want to lose an hour or two down that rabbit hole.



Thanks, Ive just read his Denford Mirac refurbishment thread but couldn't see what the white paint was.

looking at his work I think it will have to be sprayed tho rather than hand painted, looks like new.

[cropwell]

These people do a good range, including Boxford colours. I would check that you are buying an oil resistant enamel though.
https://www.stationaryengineparts.com/Workshop-Machinery-Colours/

[m_c]

Thanks, Ive just read his Denford Mirac refurbishment thread but couldn't see what the white paint was.

looking at his work I think it will have to be sprayed tho rather than hand painted, looks like new.

He's had a few different threads, but I can't remember what thread paint types were discussed on.
I'm pretty sure he does spray most stuff, but with a bit practise and the right paint, you can get a good finish without having spraying.

[Ross77]

I'm leaning towards the single pack enamels like Tractol at the moment and may try roller first to see what the finish is like.

Because I haven't been able to get it blasted im a bit concerned about the rust. sanded and scotchbrited but obviously its still there in places. Is it worth spraying with cold galvanised first to seal or just use red lead or the products primer.?

[m_c]

You could use some rust converter.

I've used POR15 metal prep in the past, and if you can keep the rust wet for a few days with occasional agitation, it will dissolve all rust.
It'll even dissolve rust in pores that blasting can't get to.

Alternatively if you can find a suitable container, a few hours electrolysis will also dissolve rust.

[Ross77]

I have been looking at the POR 15 products and they have been recommended a few times.

I've seen a few machinery enamels that can be thinned by white spirit, and are much cheaper. Are these likely to be as hard wearing as the other enamels?

Also looking at PPG selemix 7-610, as I think I can get that locally, its a synthetic enamel so the thinner is pricey, but cant find out if it is oil resistant for the using flood coolant.

[Ross77]

I've had some reasonable results painting stuff myself, but the most durable results have always been when I've been able to dry the paint at elevated temperature or used 2 pack formulations.

Was that a 2 pack epoxy or enamel? any product names?

[Voicecoil]

The 2 pack I've used is polyurethane - great stuff BUT YOU MUST WEAR APPROPRIATE PPE WHEN SPRAYING otherwise you will be really quite ill for a long time. I can't recall the manufacturer of it (was a few years ago), but seem to remember that it came from Germany. I've never used the epoxy myself, but a friend did and said it gave a very durable finish. Some quick googling turned up this stuff which seems pretty reasonable: https://www.taindustrialpaints.co.uk/shop/two-pack-epoxy-metal-paint-cheaper-popular-colours/
I've found drying at elevated temp. helps with pretty well all air dry paint types whether it's enamel out of a tin from the local paint dealer or even stuff in an aerosol: I don't think it's by chance that a lot of industrial finishes are referred to as "stoving enamel". Mind you the weather is generally cold and damp up here, not the best conditions for drying stuff.