View Full Version : m6 threaded aluminium tube for 3d printer
jcb121
19-06-2013, 02:23 AM
So, I'm making a 3d printer.
and I've bought most of the parts from around the world but I can't find this part.
so m6 thread on the outside, 3mm internal hole, about 50mm long and in Aluminium.
it's so I can pop one of these on the end. (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261224058019?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649)
I'm using 3mm filament so I'm hoping a 3mm aperture will be fine.
thanks.
Clive S
19-06-2013, 09:00 AM
I think you will find that 3mm filament is more often than not oval in shape and can be 3.2 x 2.8 etc here is a link HydraRaptor (http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/search?updated-min=2011-01-01T00:00:00Z&updated-max=2012-01-01T00:00:00Z&max-results=13) to a guy that has been around a long time and has a lot of good knowledge. The tubes are quite often made out of brass. a link here to a typical nozzle http://reprap.org/wiki/J_Head_Nozzle I have built a few of these printers in the past and the extruder is a very important part to get right for success. Good luck with your build. ...Clive
If you can get a drawing of what you'd like, I should be able to knock a few out with minimal hassle.
One thing I wonder is if a reamed finish would be better than a drilled?
jcb121
20-06-2013, 11:55 PM
9100
A reamed finish would be great, I think brass may be a better material as it may hold the heat a bit more then Aluminium.
I don't want the heat to travel up into the cold end too quickly.
FatFreddie
21-06-2013, 02:01 PM
Have you seen the reprappro hot ends - I have the older version and it has been very reliable (the only problem was with a section of oversize filament - 2mm instead of 1.75 - can't really blame them for that) - I've put well over a kilometre of filament through with no other problems.
New
http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapPro_Mendel_hot_end_assembly
Old
http://emakershop.com/RepRapPro_Mendel_Instructions-2013-0205.pdf
The principle seems to be to create an abrupt transition between hot and cold zones by force cooling above the heater - this minimises the time the filament is semi molten and therefore the bulging which can cause jams.
The new version looks like it uses a PTFE liner which would remove the necessity for a smooth barrel as well as insulating the filament until it got to the melt zone.
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