View Full Version : CONVERSION: Amadeal25LV CNC Conversion

23-08-2014, 10:32 AM
My mill is about 3 years old and used mainly for making clock parts, the reason for converting to CNC is to speed up the cutting out of clock wheel's and plates and to move away from cutting by hand with a fretsaw.

I am using the original lead screws but replace the cast iron nuts on the “X”and “Y” axis with Acetal nuts made to the method described by Evan Willams.http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/43645-Making-Acetal-leadscrew-nuts-the-easy-way.

The backlash with the new acetal nut for the “X” and “Y” is X =0.08mm and Y=0.05mm, on the “Z” axis I have fitted a gas strut to control the weight of the head which also looks like it is controlling the backlash, but I will see how it works in practice before making any more modification.

For software I plan to use FreeCad > HeeksCad/Cam > LinuxCNC.

Next phase will be to buy the stepper motors and controls, which will be in October due to Holidays.

06-09-2014, 06:02 PM
How is the machine in general ? I have just purchased one with intention of converting it to CNC ?

08-09-2014, 02:11 PM
The mill is very good and well made but its best if you re-grease the head and lead screw bearings as the quality of the grease used is poor. The main weakness of the machine is the DC drive motor I am on my 3rd and I don't use the mill for heavy work, I have improved the cooling to the motor in the hope of solving the problem.
Hope this helps Steve

08-09-2014, 05:15 PM
Thank you :)

08-09-2014, 09:53 PM
Also could you show me a picture of the table size, I've seen SO many different size tables but I would like the longer one. To get the CNC Kit it needs to have the long table or the ballscrew for X will not fit. In the sale advert it says 500/700, what the hell does this mean :D is it 500mm long or 700mm long ?!?!?!?



13-09-2014, 03:31 PM
Hi Ian, sorry about taking time to get back to you but I am out of the UK with very little internet, I think the 500/700 is the difference between the standard which has a 500 mm long table and the LV version that has a longer table at 700 mm.
I have the LV machine, I found that to fit a ball screw on the "X" axis you will need to machine a space for the ball nut to fit in as it is all very tight for space, when I get back to the UK I will send you some photos.


13-09-2014, 03:32 PM
Thank you matey :)

15-09-2014, 07:01 PM
And it's here !!!!

What a tool this is. Honest to god it was worth every single penny. The machine is so much better than the other one I had it is just not comparable !

The only thing stopping me now is the clamps I had for my vice will no longer fit because the new machine T-slots are wider so they just won't clamp down. I'll need to buy a much bigger vice as well so nothing goes anywhere :)

Here is the package I took delivery of before work: it was 175KG !! Nearly killed my self getting it into my garage !


And this is its new home, my dad and I with a combined weight of around 34 stone jumped up and down on the table with no issues. If it can withstand 34 Stone I'm sure it can handle roughly 19 stone :)


I will be accepting machining work as soon as I sort out a new vice.

Please comment if you wish about some upgrades and what not :)

15-09-2014, 07:31 PM
Congrats on the new mill
I have the next size up machine with the large table and find it does everything I need to do
however one fault with mine was the gearbox selector between H and L had a detent which didnt fully engage the plastic gears so after a short time one had stripped all its teeth off. I fixed the detent after that but its still a good idea to make sure the knob is turned as far as it will go so making sure the gear is fully engaged.
Mines still manual in operation but i've fitted motors to the z axis and a power drive to the x axis


15-09-2014, 07:41 PM
Ah cool. My next plan is to design the lay out of the monitor and electrics etc... But first I shall make up all of the electrics and then get a CNC Conversion kit and get the ball screws to suit

20-09-2014, 08:21 AM
Looks good to me, recommend you cut some extra cooling slots in the drive motor cover as the motor is prone to over heating. I also added a gas strut to to the "Z" axis which improved the lifting and lowering of the head.

04-05-2020, 09:41 AM
What type of gas strut did you use? the type sean on say hatchback cars to lift the tailgate or something different, I have a similar machine but 1000w brushless motor and the change from H to L is manual as my machine is belt driven. its an HBM bf28 profi. All still manual other than a jury rigged x feed i put together. The Z axis is heavy to wind manually so I'm thinking struts would help till i get it converted.


Hi Derek
Yes I found the head very stiff in use and I was concerned that the stepper motor would have problems, this is the gas strut I fitted http://www.wdscomponents.com/en-gb/gas-struts-gas-springs-with-angle-joints-steel-wds-550/c-340/p-887 you will need to slect the best lenght for you mill
It has a valve to adjust the gas pressure so you can balance the strut against the weight of the head. the system has been fitted for about 6 years now and is working very well.

Hope this helps


04-05-2020, 11:47 AM
Recently finished mine.
No struts needed. Since the image I'm using 8 wire steppers wired in parallel (slightly better inductance values).
Nema34's all round created too much resonance and turns out you don't need that much of a motor on all axis.
Z Nema34 1090oz/in.
X&Y Nema23 566oz/in.
All running on 60V power supplies, DQ0860MA stepper drivers.
5mm pitch DFU1605 screws, drivers at 2000 per rev and Mach3 at 400 rev per unit.

Furthest I've gone so far with rapids are 2000mm/min Z and 2500mm/min X&Y with acceleration at 500. I don't need any more than that tbf.

If I'm honest the Z stepper driver could do with more than 60V to it to get more velocity. It doesn't go much more than 2000mm and remains freezing cold even set at max current. Voltage means velocity, current refers to torque.
The 23's came alive on 60V.