Stepper wiring/colour coding

Hi guys, I'm new here so apologies in advance for any textbook errors!

I'm looking for some help with some steppers I've just received. The wires coming out of the motor are colour coded as usual, so you can look up on the data sheet which coil they're hooked up to... However on mine, (all three are the same) none of them have the colours in the same order, so if I were to follow the data sheet by colour, then surely they would be wired differently and probably incorrectly!?!

Take a look at what I mean:

Motor number 1:
Attachment 12079

Number 2:
Attachment 12080

And number 3:
Attachment 12081


The motors are Zapp Automation SY60STH86-3008BF (SY60STH88-3008BF) (this link is for a single axle variant, but the datasheet for mine are on the same page. - You may notice I asked my question on their site already, but I don't think it was understood, I probably didn't explain it well enough!

Here's the data sheet:http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/en/a...attachment=140

Lastly, I'm assuming I'm going to have to re-order these wires so that I can follow the data sheet, and there looks like where the wires go into the motor body, the plastic connector bit might be removable... There are what I think are small plastic release clips, but I can't get it to budge and would rather not break it... Any ideas?

Thanks very much in advance to anyone who can help me out here!

I would go with the colour coding from the correct data sheet. Check the data sheet and check the wiring of the motor against it with a multi meter to ensure that the winding correspond with the correct colours. If you want a double check then email Gary at Zapp. He is normally very helpful.

A quick way to test each coil is to get a pair of cables to a coil say coil AA yel/wh + yel. and short them together and try and turn the motor by hand and then try the next pair ie CC red + red/wh.

With no cables shorted the motor should turn very easy by hand and a shorted pair will make the motor stiff to turn. Also welcome to the forum ..Clive

What order the wires come out the motor is irrelevant. All that matters is the wire colours.

The fact they're in different orders, is just to do with the wires being fed out randomly. Where they come out through the case/grommets, has little bearing on what they're actually connected to internally.

The order they come out makes no difference, use the wire colors as in the datasheet and you will have no problems.

Thanks very much to everyone for your help!

One of the most important points for quality production is repeatability, clearly they are unaware of such things where these motors are produced.

Righty... So I've finally got round to getting a PCIe-parallel card, and have been playing around for most of yesterday trying to get this to work.

I started by checking that my power supply was outputting actually 24v, not 30v which if the potentiometer has been moved it can do, then wired the steppers up to my driver board (I'm using a 4 axis TB 6560, but currently only 3 motors)(I don't yet have any E-stops or limit switches or spindles, I'm just trying to get the steppers to work) like so:

Attachment 12609


Is this right? I've tried to show how I've set my DIP switches too, if it helps I can attach the entire data sheet for the driver board.

I then installed the drivers for my PCIe-parallel card, then Mach 3, and then plugged the power, steppers and parallel into the board and turned it all on. I launched Mach 3 mill, went to ports and pins and set it up how the driver boards manual says to, loaded some g-code and hit start cycle. None of the motors did anything, so I tried using the jog hotkeys. still nothing.

I then tried browsing some youtube vids, forum posts etc, (one of the reasons I chose this board was that it seemed popular and so would be easy to find other people with it) and found some different ports & pins settings which I tried. Still nothing.

The only things I have noticed are that the fan comes on on the driver board, it doesn't get at all hot (slightly warm) after 15 mins, the two LED's that I have highlighted in red boxes on my diagram come on (I think they are the 5v and 12v regulator LED's), the motors are no easier/harder to turn than when they aren't plugged in, and lastly I think there is a very faint rice crispies sort of crackle noise, which I think is coming from the steppers, but is very hard to say as its so quiet. All of these observations are the same whenever it is plugged in to the power, regardless of whether it is plugged in to the PC or Mach 3 is doing something.

So I'm kinda hoping that someone has some ideas for me... what are the correct ports pins settings for my setup? have I wired my steppers correctly? Are my DIP switches set right? Is there something I've missed?

Thanks very much to anyone who can help me out here!

Just found another set of pins and ports settings on the internet, tried them and this time the two left hand of the axis work LED's light up, but everything else is the same.

Would it be something to do with me running windows 8? From the Artsoft site: "Originally, Mach-series software only worked with the parallel port (via the parallel port driver), which was a standard port on every PC. Technologies have advanced over time, and not only is the parallel port becoming obsolete, but the Windows codebase has changed to the point where it is technically impossible for the parallel port driver to work. An external motion device is a piece of hardware that is a replacement for the parallel port. It enables a PC running Mach3/Mach4 to control outputs and read inputs. They typically communicate with the PC via an Ethernet or USB connection (but are not limited to those two means of communication). In order to control a machine using an external motion device, the developer of the hardware must write a plugin for that specific device, so no standard USB-to-parallel port adapters will work. There are many devices listed on our Plugins page in the software and download section of our website."