Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Have you thought how you will access the mounting bolts on the Z rail blocks (4.jpg) it looks like the Y rails blocks will restrict them. On another point it seems like you are use angle iron for the rail blocks (Y) are you sure that they will be at true right angles and that the inside edge is flat and parallel to the outside edge. ..Clive

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Yes this will be an issue according to these plans but the above plans are only for giving a general idea about the machine. Specific issues ( as the one that you have mentioned ) i think will be solved with small conversions. As for the iron angles the most possible scenario is to have them perfectly milled or use aluminium angles that are more accurate.

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Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

Aluminium angle is a lot more accurate than steel so maybe you could use a thicker section aluminium angle instead.
Do you need the full Z travel ? if not I would move the Z Hiwin blocks further apart.
Also now is the time to work out where your cable drag chain (energy chain) will sit, you'll need three lengths of the stuff and will need to know the lengths, bend radius, internal dimensions.

Looks like it's coming together nicely.

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According the plans z axis rails are 400mm the ballscrew (full length ) 501mm carriages distance (outer side 200mm) . That will give z axis a full travel of 200mm. May be ( if that will make the construction better) i will put the carriages at 250mm distance and reduce the full travel to 150mm.

Question 1
The above conversion worth the effort ?


Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?

Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?


Thanks for your time

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Originally Posted by ba99297

Question 1
The above conversion worth the effort ?

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Maybe you could put some figures in the stiffness calculator and find out, http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/linear...html#post15791

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Question 2
Also I would like to say that I choose to put the Y axis ballscrew at the front of the gantry in order to have the ballscrew as close as possible to Z axis and at the same time having the ballscrew exposed to the off cuts of the spindle.
Is that correct ?

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My machine has the ball screw at the back and so far I have noticed no problems.
Some people put a plate over the front with a slot for the ball nut bracket, you could fit these to the slot, Toolstation > Ironmongery > Draught Excluders > Heavy Duty Brush Strip
or keep it like it is and use two of these to keep swarf out Machine Bellows - Arc Euro Trade

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Question 3
Do you think I will need a second side plate at both edges?

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I would hope it is strong enough as you have it now with one plate but again maybe you could try putting it into the stiffness calculator.

Roughly in order of priority...(i.e. in order of how much I expect these changes will impact the overall stiffness of the machine:

1. The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on are definitely weak points.
2. Keep the Y-ballscrew where it is - it's well positioned. Moving the ballscrew to prevent exposure to swarf is totally the wrong priority - just guard it if necessary.
3. The spacing of the bearings on the Z-axis is a bit low - bear in mind the deflection of the linear guide system is proportional to that bearing spacing squared, so every little helps.
4. Try to compact the Z-axis to reduce overhang - by making cutouts in the plates you should be able to avoid putting the rails on spacer strips.
5. The Z-ballscrew could be made shorter if you want, but it doesn't really matter.

You only need the adjustment slots for mounting the X-axis linear bearings to the gantry at one side - on the other side you could use normal holes and mill a reference edge for the bearings to rest against. That will help slightly with getting things square. It's also a good tactic for the other axes - particularly Z in your design.

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

Roughly in order of priority...(i.e. in order of how much I expect these changes will impact the overall stiffness of the machine:

1. The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on are definitely weak points.

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Jonathan when you say "The thin plates the linear bearings are mounted on " you mean the carriages of X axis of Y axis or both X and Y axis?
The "thin plates" of X axis supposed to be 10mm iron. What thickness is suitable ?

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

The spacing of the bearings on the Z-axis is a bit low - bear in mind the deflection of the linear guide system is proportional to that bearing spacing squared, so every little helps.

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I suppose you mean to increase the distance between the 2 lower and the two upper carriages and that will reduce the Z axis travel

Should i need a second side plate?


Thanks
Vagelis

After Deans sujestion i put the y axis rails at the front
Attachment 12341Attachment 12342Attachment 12343Attachment 12344Attachment 12345Attachment 12346Attachment 12347Attachment 12348Attachment 12349Attachment 12350
The clearance from the table to the spindle collet is 115mm

Thanks for your time

We've established that the weight of the gantry is not something to be concerned about, so no need for those cutouts between the Y-axis bearings. It'll be stronger if you leave it as a rectangular plate.

Jonathan i agree with you but i must leave at least one small cutout in order to be able to work with the ball screw and also in order to pass the ballnut . How thick plate(steel) plate should i use? At he above plans the plate is 10mm. Also i want to say that i put the ballscrew near the bottom of the gantry and not at the middle, in order to have the ballnut as close to the collet as possible. Is that correct?

Hi guys.
I come back with some final questions before I go on with my machine.
Next week the hiwin profiled rails and carriages will arrive so I will have in my hands all the pieces so I can laser cut the steel and aluminum plates, and the box section tubes.
First I want to say that the machine frame will be made from 80X80X4 steel tubes.
Here is a general overview of the machine

Attachment 12672Attachment 12673Attachment 12674




I I wont use a movable cutting surface as I first had in mind. The cutting surface and the clamping system will look like this.

Attachment 12675

On the 80X80X4 steel tubes I will weld 80X40X3 vertical pieces and between them 40X40 tslot aluminum profile. On the 80X40X3 steel tube, 19mm plywood will be bolted. If there is any comment I will be glad to hear it.


Now regards the gantry it will be made from 2 80X80X4 tubes(in the middle ) and 2 120X60X4 tubes (up and down) welded together like this. At the back side of the gantry all the tubes wont be in the same plane. The 80X80 tubes will exceed 2cm to make space for the ball nut mount flange.

Attachment 12676

The ganty will be welded and then bolted straight to the hiwin carriages ( after I apply epoxy at the bottom side of the gantry ).


And now I come with my questions.
The clearance (after Deans suggestion ) from the lower point of Z to the cutting surface is 180mm. The travel of Z is nearly 130mm. When z axis is at its lowest point the situation is this




Attachment 12677


That means 6mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.



When z axis is at its higher point the situation is this
Attachment 12678

That means 136mm from spindle choke to the cutting surface.


Is that Ok?This is very critical for the machine construction as any mistake here will need frame reconstruction. Generally is there rule about what is the distance from the choke to the cutting surface when Z is at its lower point.?


Finally i want to ask about resonane. Is it better to use these red plates


Attachment 12679




Or it is better to use a 80X80 tube to connect vertialy left upper side of the frame with the rights upper side of the frame

Attachment 12683

Thanks for your time and i will be glad to hear any suggestion

Vagelis

Hi, I don't think it is a good idea to weld the hiwin carriages if that is really what you mean .G.

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Originally Posted by GEOFFREY

Hi, I don't think it is a good idea to weld the hiwin carriages if that is really what you mean .G.

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You are right. By mistake i wrote "weld". I meant bolted. Thanks for the correction. I have already correct the mistake