Just a thought could you not bracket them to the wall? ..Clive
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Just a thought could you not bracket them to the wall? ..Clive
I was planing on bolting it to the floor i would prefer not to rely on the wall as it may well end up being moved else were were that may not be a option.
many thanks
Bolting to the wall with brackets would be a quick simple fix. But if you have to move it so that it is free standing you might be able to triangulate the back of the uprights bit like an apex roof truss on end. ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by charlieuk
Looking at other designs on youtube I found this one. Different layout approach which would be stiffer than your cantilever. Bit late I know, but any ideas from here?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9zYrr4jNfWI
In terms of improving what you have - I don't think you'll get very far filling the back supports, or adding angle iron. You are looking for a big step change to make a difference. As Clive suggested either bolting to the wall or adding diagonals on each end coming forward to the front of the machine and onto the floor would be much better.
Can you post a picture of the whole thing now it is generally together? You might get a few more ideas . .
unfortunately due to the size of mine it cut down the options on design options as making a beam 20' long un supported would have been all most imposable.
I have all so seen videos of that design shaking violently when the router changed directions when cutting, im pretty sure mine is far stiffer that that design all ready. i Had wondered about bracing the ends but thought that possibly making the ends stiffer than the centre would be a bad thing maybe?
I will get a few more pics this morning showing the whole thing.
best regards charlie
Charlie I think mentioned before that you needed diagonal bracing on the lower frame and this would help your problem quite a bit but really your easiest option is the wall.
Personally I would brace the base along its length like the black line show and try it, but at same time a few brackets to wall would cure it easy. Then if you ever need it free standing then make some triangle supports (red lines) for it which go at the rear and bolt to floor.
Also becareful with those timing belts that you don't over tighten and pull the ends of the ballscrews inwards and cause them to bend or bind. The belts don't need to be drum tight just not loose.
Attachment 13085
i have posted a few more pictures bellow you can see i have all ready braced the corners of the table area which improved it a lot and stopped any movement in that area. I could brace it more underneath but i think the flex is coming between the top of the table and the top of the verticals. would filling the extrusion help with dampening any of the vibrations or flex down? would it be a good thing to do any ways?
I will have to maybe look into bolting it to the wall but i would like to see if there was any way i could improve it before hand using other methods.
I could probably put plates in the corners of the verticals above the table as well but they would have to be taller than wide so they do not interfere with things on the table.
I have adjusted the belts a bit and just pulled them hand tight before any signs of flex from the screw so will leave it like that at the moment many thanks for that info i was originally assuming they had to be pretty tight to work.
While we are here were is the best place to source the cable and steppers from as i am going to be needing a fare few meters in total.
best regards charlie
What's the thinking behind putting the VFD on the gantry as you can't change the speed etc. when cutting. ..Clive
He could be using the serial interface to set the speed, but either way it will be subjected to significant vibration from the machine, which is asking for trouble.Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
I have been advised that having a long lead to the spindle is a bad idea because of interference generated the vfd its is mounted floating on foam to dampen any vibrations, the speed will be controlled through mach3