It is a signal converter, 0-10volts to 4-20mA.
hvac stuff.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
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It is a signal converter, 0-10volts to 4-20mA.
hvac stuff.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
Good work on the mock up Joe. I did mine the other way around with the on /off immediately after the 24V psu. This was my master control. Then the reset to switch the relay/pilz which switched the contractor. If you have an estop event you are then just jumping between estop switch and reset rather than having an on off in there as well. Both ways work just felt like a better operation flow
Very nice Vid Joe, If I might make a very small comment for the benefit and clarity of others. Re the switches and the schematic it would be nice to show that they have leds inside.Quote:
Hi everyone, I've managed to get a working mockup of the e-stop circuit together... another little video:
https://youtu.be/OUgjcH8JGMs
As always any comments gratefully received!
I realise on the vid you can see that you mentioned them. But as drawn it looks wrong because the leds are not shown on the drawing.
Having said that it is superb and will help a lot of people with the Estop and restart circuit.:applouse:
Yes fair point! I realised I had also forgot to draw the contacts on the relay 'switches' too which would have aided clarity. Hope it helps people just to understand what some of these things do. I had never heard of a pilz or a contractor before starting this project so this was a bit of a curve for me. Basic info has been what I've craved from the start!Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Quick question folks. I have bought a huge second hand control box for a bargain price and I'm starting to layout the various components. I am going to keep the 24v cables separate from the mains. Should you keep the 80v cables for the drives separate from the mains too?
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Its always good practise to keep them apart as much as practical. Also I know that you have purchased good quality cable for the mains stuff. Its nice to keep the colours brown and blue as well for 230V and say red and black for the 24Vdc that will help to avoid confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Thanks CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
I have decided to use XLR connectors between the control box and the steppers. I have ordered some 5pin with male for the cable and female for the cabinet. The four cores of my cy will go into pins 2-5 with the shielding braid going into pin 1 like this how to video:
https://youtu.be/89XDGtJzzBc
My question is do you connect the shield as you come into the cabinet or right at the point of connection with the drives? And do you go straight to the cabinet/back plate or run a wire to the star ground. Apologies if this seems basic to some of you!
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Not saying that this is right, or the only way to do it, but it is working for me...
I use 4-way XLR. CY cable from the motor has its braid soldered to the shield terminal in the XLR plug. Because I don't trust the socket to make a sound electrical connection to the powder-coated cabinet, I run an earth wire inside the cabinet from the earth terminal on each socket to the star earth. Each XLR socket has CY cable to the stepper driver with the shield connected to the socket's earth tag (along with the wire to the star point). I should probably not have daisy-chained the socket earths to each other and then to the star point as each should have had its own wire (probably). I have had no noise issues with my cabinet wiring. At least, not as far as I know.
I've got the shield from the cable from the drive (at the terminal end) soldered to an earth cable which goes back to the star and the cable that comes in from the stepper (at the terminal end) has the shield soldered to an earth cable that also goes to the star earth. Again don't know if its correct but works for me so far...
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Thanks guys for the input, if it works that's good enough for me! [emoji4]. I have done a short video to explain my thoughts on how I'm going to set out the control cabinet and would be grateful of any comments before I start screwing things down...
https://youtu.be/0mJ4v-u51Ew
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Btw not sure why I said about 24v power going to drives. It doesn't.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Layout looks OK to me - I've only made one proper control box so far but I went through the same logic as you and it works OK.
Regarding one of your earlier comments - I decided against XLR connectors between the steppers and the control box and wired them direct to the drivers. Where the cables entered the control box there should be a strain relief gland then the outer braiding was twisted and soldered to an earth wire which went off to the star earth point on the DIN rail. The soldered joint was heat shrinked and looked quite neat. I think it was Dean who showed how he does it and I copied that.
The direct vs plug-in question comes down to whether it is actually of much benefit to be able to plug/unplug the motors from the control box and how often you would want to do that. There is the possibility of signal quality problems at the connector / poor connection over time - I understand that loosing the connection momentarily between driver and stepper whilst the are running can upset or damage the drivers for example. If you hard wire them and really want to disconnect a motor it is only a few minutes to loosen some screw terminals and feed the cable out.
I agree that in an ideal world, steppers would be hard-wired in one cable run back to the drivers. I have used XLR because I had originally wired the steppers back to a DIN terminal rail and it was a right pain to wire them in each time that the box came off the machine while I was building and testing. I had the connectors available from my previous machine so chose to use them. I'll probable unplug them all soon and dose them with a bit of switch-cleaner to try to keep them sweet.
You have a rather larger cabinet than I am using. Good idea! Mine is a bit cramped (hence the wiring/unwiring problem mentioned) and it would have been good to have had a bit more space. As it turned out, my control box just fits the available space on the underframe of the router so it came right in the end. The overall layout you are proposing looks fine to me. In particular, signal wires from the IP/M (good choice!) will run down the opposite side of the cabinet from mains wiring, and are also well away from the stepper cables. Since you have gone to the expense of the IP/M, I'm assuming that you will be using differential signal wires between IP/M and drivers? If you can get a bit of UTP cable, the twisted pairs in that make good interconnects for this purpose.
On the subject of wiring, are you planning to use wiring/bootlace ferrules? I came across these, fortunately shortly before I started putting my control box together, when someone here posted a link to a good offer on eBay or somesuch. You can get the crimp tool kits from AliExpress fairly cheaply (something like this). They make wiring easier and safer - no loose strands of wire waiting to short on neighbouring terminals, better clamping in screw terminals, etc.
It's all coming together - good luck with the wiring!
Thanks Guys. Yes I have some bootlace ferrules - used them on the power supply and they were great. Twisted pair sounds like a good idea although I hadn't thought of that tbh. I had intended to use some of the trirated cable. I have the connectors on order now so will probably use them but keep the cy a bit long so I can hard wire them if I have any problems. I've got 50m of cy so should have enough!!
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Do you guys just use cy cable between the spindle and the VFD? My cyc is 1mm2 is that going to be enough?
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Yes 1mm is enough that is rated about 11A and your 2.2kw is over 3 cables just one point if you are using a plug as normal on the spindle the make sure you fit a strain releaf on the cable so as not to let the cable move in the plug. If the plug comes loose or a cable breaks the vfd will go bang.:nightmare:Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Thanks Clive - I don't want anything going bang!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...937eb28cfe.png
I have made a small amount of progress on the control panel and finally ordered the drivers...
https://youtu.be/hwv93Pd181U
Nice work Joe. You are doing all the right things and asking yourself the right kind of questions. Keep working through it and you'll have a box you can be proud of. Importantly you will be able to fault find or modify at a later date as you have kept it neat and have a wiring diagram to refer back to when you've forgotten what you did. I wish I had put wiring number tags on my cables and put labels on my diagram - something to think about
Thanks and yes I'll think about the labels, I have various colours too which should help...Quote:
Originally Posted by routercnc
As usual Joe you don't disappoint it a big credit to you:applouse:
Mains power distribution in the control box is pretty much finished:
https://youtu.be/sCbZAM9jLQc
Joe did I spot a fuse in the neutral!! if so I would take it out. You make it look so easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Looking sweet Joe,
Just so you know the correct format for your videos to show "in post" is like this:
However your not at all obliged to do anything if you prefer to just drop the link :beer:Quote:
Thanks Lee, I posted on Tapatalk and not sure how you do that on there?Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Thanks Clive, I am using the double pole fuse holders that came with my cabinet but not using two fuses. Some pictures: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...74ef6d3f58.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...702ee95280.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Ok Joe that's fine but I had to pick it up because it is dangerous to fuse the _ve Good man.:applouse:
You would need to insert a URL rather than paste just the link, then once its inserted change [url] to [video]...Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Dont bother though Joe as its really not that big an issue :)
Panel progress... estop working nicely (Despite temporarily shorting out the 24v supply and wondering what the squealing noise was..!) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4606cc03a2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...74b7358008.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aff446b34e.jpg
Looks good, are you sure you've not done this before? Shorting out??? Do tell???Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
I connected the wires for the panel estop to the 24v fault indicator and the wires for the indicator to the estop meaning the 24 supply was just pumping current to itself. It took me a while to figure out what I had done wrong and it made a funny noise each time I switched it on to check if I had fixed it but it still seems to work! Whoops [emoji51]Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Oh and no, never before but I am enjoying it! Been watching other peoples builds on this forum for years though...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Hehe I know that flavor!, good job it was only 24v then!Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Video showing the installation of my panel controls:
http://<a href="https://youtu.be/bgK...KEZsiwfB0 </a>
And one showing the installation of the cabinet fans... this job sucked!
http://<a href="https://youtu.be/jJD...JDP88FGMns</a>
Hi Joe
Both links not working for me ?
Mike
Oh. Try these...Quote:
Originally Posted by mekanik
https://youtu.be/bgKEZsiwfB0
https://youtu.be/jJDP88FGMns
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c978e78393.jpg
My drives have arrived and I have wired up the power supply to them (see photo) any reason why I shouldn't power them up with nothing else connected ??
If it makes you happy Joe:beer:Quote:
My drives have arrived and I have wired up the power supply to them (see photo) any reason why I shouldn't power them up with nothing else connected ??