That's a great idea that never crossed my mind, maybe use an cross vice underneath it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by njhussey
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That's a great idea that never crossed my mind, maybe use an cross vice underneath it ?Quote:
Originally Posted by njhussey
I was thinking of making a dolly for it out of MDF and using it as a hand router but with lower speed/more torque as got a 104A 24V PSU (2 server PSU's in series) I'm going to use with my 100A ESC and servo tester, for speed control.
Attachment 11742
Part of your problem with rigidity on the mill will be due to using a drill chuck for milling. Drill chucks are not designed for radial forces, since drills apply a largely axial force. For that reason you shouldn't use a drill chuck for milling as they don't grip very well, in addition to being prone to have higher runout. Get an ER collet chuck and set of collets off eBay and I'm pretty confident you'll see the difference. Just get a suitable size one with the right taper etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by fvfdrums
To add to JB's comments, tapered drill chucks like to come lose and drop out when applying a side cutting force - using something like an end mill in a drill press. So can be dangerous both to you and the part, be safe guys....
.Me
On a milling machine the drill chuck is generally held in with a drawbar, so it shouldn't drop out. However, the drill chuck's poor ability to support the cutter radially would make the cutter prone to dropping...Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Jonathan, Thanks for that I will do that and see what its like :) I do always use a drawbar with my mill head as the last thing I want is the chuck dropping out and hitting me let alone the piece of metal I have been working on for hours!
I got on to machining the front side of the y axis plate and it again went very well, managed to get the surface nice and level even though it had to be done in two sections as my mill table is not long enough for one pass.
I then milled the base of the bk mounts and the ball screw holder to get the whole thing to close up a bit more without hogging out more of the aluminium plate than I needed to. I only took a couple of MM off the feet of the bearing mounts but it meant I did not need to cut into the face plate at all.
Ignore the lack of bolts I am waiting on a "top up"
Looking at your picture, you have the Z ballscrews bearings bolted to the fixed Z plate, and it looks as if the ballscrew nut will bolt to the moving Z plate. How are you going to adjust the nut or bearing position, or the guide rails, so that everything is nicely aligned? I've been looking at these details on my own design for a while and am looking for inspiration! I have some ideas, but always keen to re-use other people's work...
Sounds a bit similar to the machine I could do with building...I'll be keeping an eye on your build.
If you're buying on fleabay, just a tip... Don't buy anything online after a visit to the "Trip" (To Jerusalem) :cupcake:
Good luck.
Done plenty of buying after going to the Trip! But no CNC parts mind :)
Looks like the build is moving at a pace now, Z axis looking good.