a Steel Box Section Build with SBR20 & Ballscrews Plus a few questions

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Originally Posted by grain_r

Yes the plan is to use a belt to the screw, it doesn't have much of the end on it but I thought I can open up the pulley to go over the thread slightly

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My old mate John S whos no longer with us, bless him, used to tap the pulley halfway and use this as the nut.! . . . It worked good and easy to do.

That's a great idea I wouldn't have thought of that,
He sounds like a very clever and resourceful man, I am very sorry that he is no longer here, He lives on with his ideas being used and friends' & Families memories.

Hey Everyone
Well it's been a while since I have posted anything but I have been slowly doing a little when I can sneak off to the garage for a short while.

I have still been lurking furtively in the shadows though :)

I have noticed that since I started the Make "a quickie CNC project" that my quality of work has gone up and so things that I must have been happy(ish) with originally I have then re-done to a better standard. I would have never thought I would still be making this thing when I first started designing. but I am also grateful that I am.
It has been in my thoughts at least once a day of solving different things and I am learning new skills all of the time. So instead of the CNC creating items it really is turning out to be my actual hobby to create this thing.

Sometimes when I have had a rough day I go to the design space in my mind and build it. Okay, some might say actually physically building stuff is the way to go through.

My Hole drilling was always an issue of getting it accurate enough to be happy with but with so many possible ways it could wander slightly even using centre drills i still wasn't happy, So I have been using a little sieg x2 mini mill and that has made the job much better but it doesn't have a DRO on it as yet and so even though the mill can get to the correct place a drill can (And does) move around.

I have always stayed away from 3d printing thinking that it wasn't for me and that the quality of parts that I had seen from other people's tries just wasn't something that I would use. Well, how wrong was I.
I have purchased the Ender Creality 3 and it is amazing. sure it can create stuff that will sit collecting dust on the shelf but also it can create useful parts.
it is supposed to go to 0.01 of an mm

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So I created a drill template so that even if it is wrong they would all be the same so they would be right (My Logic anyway).

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I have had issues with getting the drill marks as accurate as I wanted so I made some centre drill markers and some Centre drill markers with very small centres so that I could mark the masking tape and then use a punch to get it pretty close.

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So then onwards to fix my errors from my previous times. JazzCnc mentioned a long time ago about welding nuts into a hole and especially because I am using 3mm it would help. I haven't done this on all of the holes but on the not-so-accurate holes, it has worked really well.

I took the coating off with the Brick cleaning acid as suggested (I do listen :eagerness:)

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I have been working on a mockup for the Gantry at the moment too, The frame is pretty much there

I am working on a movable shelf at the moment so the material will be much higher than the bottom is at the moment but this is if I wanted to create fibreglass moulds for the full height work.


Stemming from my original design I didn't think enough about losing the width of the cut when the gantry plates go to the end.
I originally planned on the Hiwin carriages further forwards and giving a larger gap between the carriages. but not I am thinking the the base plate will then be flush with the front of the Ali Profile and then the x will be allowed to slide further across giving me the maximum cutting size that I can.

the downside of this is that the main load will be on the front carriage but I'm also thinking this will be a plus point, not a negative point the Carriages will be an 80mm gap between each other and I think it looks right.

the Base plate won't be like the block it will be 2 plates of 10mm Tooling plate to make it 20mm thick and it will go across and hold the ballscrew block too.


Originally it was designed to make a plate that goes further forwards to make the spacing larger and the load sit between the 2 carriages better.

I can always change it in the future if I get any issues.

Because everything is so expensive at the moment instead of using epoxy to level the rails I am going to use some Ali profile that I already had for a job that I didn't use to save a few pennies. I can always use Epoxy in the future if it isn't as level as I hope but I will be able to check that.

thanks

Rob

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Since it is a little chilly out there and the garage is cold at the moment I have started to look at making the Electronics side of things whilst I wait for the heat to come back. Cold fingers and screws are always an experience :tennis:

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I have been looking at using a PC tower case because the wall enclosures just seem so much money at the moment but I also like the size of the case, then the expansion ports will be to connect the motors and Sensors and various items.
The Powersupply will be out of the way underneath the main section and so will help with the separation. then I will run the fuse and MCB in the same place as the Toroidal power.

So I have been looking at using a 240 Volt VET Toroidal Power unit which has x2 25v outputs 625 VA.
I am using the lead shine AM882 drivers with the four cnc4you 4nm motors. which show they take around 2 Amps so need 70v to run the lead shines.

but I wasn't really sure if this is the correct unit I will need in all honesty.

https://www.rapidonline.com/vigortro...-x-25v-88-0012

the bridge rectifier I have been looking at is a 35 Amp rectifier https://www.rapidonline.com/dc-compo...mb356--47-3228

but that is then when I have become unstuck on the Capacitor choice and I'm not sure how to work this out so I wondered if anyone could possibly point me in the correct direction.


Thank you very much.

Rob

Rob

The attached is all you need though the price will be wrong. The toroidal you have is ok

This vid from Joe will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OoQ...zD30sZjtp_VyqY




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Hey Clive

Thank you very much for that, that is a great help, I haven't made a power supply like this before so I'm not sure if these create much heat when in use. The space will be a little limited so the components will be quite close to each other and planning to put the incoming MCB for the power supply Horizontally above the toroidal doughnut the plan is roughly to keep it a similar size to a PC power supply in height but in a longer package.

thank you very much.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Rob

The attached is all you need though the price will be wrong. The toroidal you have is ok

This vid from Joe will help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OoQ...zD30sZjtp_VyqY




Attachment 31568

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Good Morning Clive

I have been onto Rapid to place the order but unfortunately, the Capacitors are out of stock until February. I have looked through but couldn't find any others with the same rating is the 4700 Uf 100v the only capacitor's that will work? I'm sorry to be a pain.

thanks


Rob

Quote:

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Originally Posted by grain_r

Good Morning Clive

I have been onto Rapid to place the order but unfortunately, the Capacitors are out of stock until February. I have looked through but couldn't find any others with the same rating is the 4700 Uf 100v the only capacitor's that will work? I'm sorry to be a pain.

thanks


Rob

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https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...citors/8467133

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393492725...Bk9SR9SekPWlYQ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/alumi...citors/8467133

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393492725...Bk9SR9SekPWlYQ

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Thank you very much clive