That looks about right.
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That looks about right.
Splendid! Thanks for your help. I'm going to try and find time to draw it out once more as a complete circuit to be sure before I start...Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Here goes, I think this is my finalised estop and fault circuit:Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...be7b9830a4.jpg
Limit switch circuit: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...47e99d2763.jpg
Home proximity switch circuit:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...46b4bdb13b.jpg
Can i ask a question about limit switches / estop wiring here since it is kind of on topic? Dont want to hijack this topic.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
When hitting estop/limit switches, can 68volts be shutoff.. or should/can the enable contact on the drives be used?
BTW Joe the hand drawn schematics look very good.
Grtz Bert.
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Joe - that looks fine, except that you don't need to use three inputs on the CSMIO for the limit switches. They can all go into one input, and in the Mach3 configuration screen you point all the max and min limits for all axes at that pin. You are using home switches separate from the limit switches. No problem with that, and the wiring looks OK. I'm assuming that you have NPN NC switches. By using separate inputs for the home switches you give yourself the possibility to home more than one axis at a time. Typically, you might configure Mach3 to home Z (to get it high up out of the way) and then home X and Y simultaneously - saves a little bit of time during the homing sequence.
Bert - some people consider hitting a limit switch to be an "emergency" so you could wire them in series with the e-stop switches. Personally, I have the e-stop switches trip the safety relay which turns off the 68V PSU, and also disables the drivers via the "enable" inputs and sends a signal to the CSMIO e-stop connection. My limit switches (like Joe's diagram) just go the CSMIO. Part of the reason for this is that I use a single switch for limit and home at one end of each axis, and I don't want a home switch to operate as an e-stop!
Thanks, I thought that might be the case with regards to the limit inputs. The reason I have separate limits and homing is I wanted the repeatability and accuracy you can get with prox switches but the physical break you get with a traditional limit switch. Yes NPN NC.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Is that not a dead short between 24v+ and 0v in the "on" switch?Attachment 23111
I'm not sure if I've got this right as drawn tbh I'll check it because it works fine in practice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Web Goblin
I think you will find the switch is more like this :-
Attachment 23112
John
Good one John, this is the switch I'm using but you can't see the innards. CheersQuote:
Originally Posted by john swift
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2119d5839b.jpg
Thanks for all the comments and corrections. I have now redrawn the 'CSMIO Digital Inputs' diagram as one sketch incorporating all (I think) the comments. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...913b29a465.jpg
Joe,
couple more comments!
Main one is that you have two LED indicator lamps wired in series off the 24V supply, switched by the safety relay. I'm assuming that these are both 24V LED lamps. Ideally, you should have them wired in parallel rather than series. That is, take the wire from the safety relay to both lamps, and a wire from ground to both lamps. They will probably work the way you have them but won't be at full brightness.
The other point is about the switch to the stepper PSU. What I have done on my machine is take a 24V feed from one of the safety relay contacts (in fact, the one that feeds the panel lamps as above) to the PSU. In your case, if you like, you could take this via the switch as well (my machine does not have a switch in this position). Your system will work OK, but the way I have it, if you hit an e-stop then not only do you signal the CSMIO via the e-stop digital input pin, you also remove power from the steppers. Actually, I also use the N/C contact to supply 5V to the enable inputs on the stepper drivers as well; with the safety relay de-energised, this effectively disables the stepper drivers. So, on e-stop, you tell the CSMIO to stop sending pulses, you remove power from the drivers, and you also disable the drivers explicitly. You might not want to bother with the last point here, but taking the 24V from the safety relay would be a trivial change on your diagram and adds a small (although probably unnecessary) additional safety factor.
Appreciate the help! I was actually away last week - hence the hand drawn diagrams and had totally messed that bit up! Just amended it which naught make a bit more sense. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5460267b6e.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Neale
In connecting the home proximity switches I have chosen the following method for connecting the cy cable shield to the star ground in the cabinet.
I have four core cy cable, one of which is green/yellow the other three black. The black ones I am using for the three prox cables, the green/yellow I have cut off but reused by twisting and soldering together with the shield fibres. I have then put some heat shrink around it and so have three wires to go to +24v, 0v and the CSMIO home input plus the green/yellow which runs to the star ground. Some pictures below to illustrate. I have done one so far, any comments before I do any more?!!?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f5fb08bb3c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2eca1cd49c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...92978ce7eb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f55b336f3e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...73762dd151.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4f0b05c0fa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4a5f9f994b.jpg
I reckon that will be OK. I run my limit switches differently; one cable from the control box carries +24V and ground (along with something else I forget) and another carries all four limit/home switch connections (2 for X). I take the screens to the star ground. I haven't found any noise problems at all, which is the main concern, but as you are using 24V signalling rather than 5V as with many BOBs, you have a lot more intrinsic noise rejection anyway. Will you be able to run your stepper motor cables away from the signal cables? Having said which, again on my machine, the stepper motor cables, limit switch cables, and spindle motor cables all run through the same cable chains. They are all CY cable. I've tried to separate the motor cables from the others by putting the cooling water pipes between them, but again, no problems found with that setup.
Do any CSMIO IPM users out there know whether the CAN Terminator supplied should be connected to the expansion module terminal if not used? If not, what is it for?!
also do the power supply pins 9 and 22 on the step/Dir connector need to be connect direct to +24v and 0v on the psu? So worried I'm going to fry this thing!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a0422d9770.jpg
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I have to say that I can't even remember having a CAN terminator! I doubt that it is needed if you are not using CANbus, though. I think you need it if you use expansion modules. You can daisy-chain these modules together, each connecting to the next. The last one then needs a terminator for the CANbus to work properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Are you planning to use the digital outputs 0-3? If you are, then you need to connect 24V to the + and- as shown. If you are not using them, you don't need to connect power to those pins. As I remember, you use one of the relay outputs to switch the VFD and they don't need this extra PSU connection. You could use the digital outputs for things like switching coolant on/off, although personally I don't bother and use a manual switch.
Brilliant thanks! Got all the UTP connections in now: https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...696ded150f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3bdd7ceb6b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f8f3704b25.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by Neale
Would it do any harm to connect it? - just so I don't loose it!Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
No, don't think it would do any harm.
Plugging the terminator in shouldn't do any harm, either will leaving it off, as without any expansion modules, the CAN bus won't be doing much.
The purpose of it is to stop signals from reflecting/bouncing of the end of the CAN bus wiring, and causing interference.
Thanks to the Legend that is Dean I got a stepper to move last night - woohoo!
https://youtu.be/59WaetUDAtU
Awsome!! :D
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Very nice!
In a few days you will make dust....men glitter!!!:loyal:
Anything on the machine which moves by itself counts as 'first movement' so woo-hoo indeed ! Nice one Joe and nice one Dean where ever you are ! :encouragement:
Well Done Joe.
Your thread is a constant spur on for me. I'm in the same position of young children and no time so I know how well you are doing to move the build on.
You will have to start designing those things that you dreamed of making when it was a If only I had a CNC machine I could make ??????.
Actual, real life, jogging movement on Y, ladies and gentlemen: https://youtu.be/GfsmxBR0q3c
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Nice one Joe getting closerQuote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Sounds nice and smooth too so general alignment and straightness of ballscrew is pretty good
When's the party Joe :applause::beer:
Awesome and as routercnc said it sounds to work smooth,(I write that to show that I know something from cnc machines), lol,you are almost there man,carry on!!!
Getting close now... two axis moving, spindle on and spinning.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2de534db7f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...7cc851becc.jpg
Hello all,
Bit of an explanation of my limit switch wiring and video of all axis now moving below:
https://youtu.be/YhuqM_D9lS8
https://www.youtube.com/user/joerharris
Must be proud of your self :) still watching your video's so well done mate.
I have been busily getting my head around fusion 360 in the background (very nice programme, can't believe they let the likes of me use it for nothing!) and sent my first programme to the machine this evening and of course things did not go quite to plan.
The intention was to cut a small pocket 55x55mm with a 1/2" router bit (12.7mm)
This was all set up correctly in fusion (I think) and it cut fine, albeit far too slow (I'll up the feed rate next time around), but the problem came when I measured the part - see pictures below... any ideas!?
After all this time building, it is dawning on me that I have no idea how to use this new tool of mine :(
Edit: Sorry - pictures make this look worse than it is as I forgot to zero the calipers! I'll take some new pictures...
New pics after previous post - prob need to run the calibration wizard in the settings window of MACH3 again... but being out by 0.8mm in one direction and 1.4mm in the other does not seem a great starting point.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...5d826cdea8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8957793e72.jpg
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Joe don't get despondent, this is normal when first getting the machine calibrated. Check it over a greater distance say 300mm in fresh air ie. in the midi type g1 f500 x300 and check to see if it has move exactly 300mm then do the same on Y ie type Y300 and check that. you might have to amend the steps per.
Thanks Clive, it was nice to see it cutting at last and I’m sure I will get it all sorted but I have quite a few things to fix and finish and I’m getting very impatient!! I will have another go tomorrow...Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Hi Joe, good to see your machine is moving, albeit not as accurately as it should! I've been using my machine for a while...as you can see from the state of the bed (sacrificial) I still make mistakes. Every day is a learning day [emoji16] [emoji106]
Hope you get it sorted soon [emoji106]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...88acf49b0b.jpg
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No big deal.
Like Clive said you run the calibration and Mach 3 asks if the axis you calibrate,each time,moved at the distance you want,you put the correct distance in the proper box and you see the machine do the correction!
Nice to make the first cut , especially with a machine you build, right?