Stell frame cnc 1500X1000. Adjustable table your opinion please

Looking good, I think the legs are okay as they are. Make sure you paint the frame before doing the epoxy, it's a lot easier, but leave just the top surface of the upper rails bare metal so the epoxy sticks good.

Starts to look very impressive. Nice job. I envy you for your big and nice looking workshop.


-In my opinion you don't need to adjust the table by bolts. The machine needs to be sturdy at earth level. I plan to buy for mine 6 hockey plucks. That's what my friend did and works like a charm. Not needed, but he is a maniac.


-if you follow what Eddy said and paint it, may be don't paint also where the ball screw end supports will be. When the gantry is mounted, then fix the ball screw, then go to one end and then tack solder the fixture for the end support, then go at the other end and repeat. Then remove the ball screw and then solder it carefully there. So when all is ready in the same manner you rectify the ball screws. Cause if you solder now, later may be there would be need to re drill the holes and waste a lot of effort. That's my way of course.

Thanks both for your valuable advices.
Syliavski when you say NOT to adjust the table by bolts, what if there is any imperfection 1cm at the floor ? The hockey plucks that you suggest will be welded at the frame. What material are made of these plucks?
When you are talking about the balscrew fixture end support, you are talking about X axis? If you see my plans i am going to attach the fixture to the frame with bolt so it will be adjustable.
As for my work shop thanks for your comments. There is my paradise. Music, creation, and no one to bother me.

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Originally Posted by ba99297

As for my work shop thanks for your comments. There is my paradise. Music, creation, and no one to bother me.

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Nice, where I am it's mostly pissing down with rain.

I bought M25 or so bolts for the machine, soldered the nuts to the legs, thinking that will hold. When the machine was ready i left it on the nuts only and they lay on the hockey pucks. cause i did not find M25 bolts sturdy enough. On your machine M25 6cm bolt on the legs will shake like a plastic, once that heavy gantry starts accelerating.

The pucks are made from hard PU rubber. make sure they are the solid ones, not refilled with something.


You call 1cm imperfection :joker: , i have to deal with 6-7 cm inclination in my garage and i plan to level it with cement. Thats what is best to do, to level the floor under the machine. If i had to deal with 1cm, i would simply stick 10mm steel plate below the leg.


Translate for you design:
I meant these pieces in blue Not to be welded until the gantry is ready and mounted and rectified in all directions:
Attachment 12974


Then bolt these 2 together with a piece of paper between them/that for the later paint thickness
Attachment 12975


Then bolt all that is in blue together as it would be at the end, trying all bolts to be in the center of the holes. the bolts must not be tightened very much
Attachment 12976


Now move to one end the gantry and spot weld with 5- 6 spots 1 of the pieces in blue from the first picture. Rotate by hand the screw and move to other end of machine. Now you spot weld the other fixture.

then dismount all in blue, ballscrews , etc. Then weld well the 2 fixtures. No everything is in parallel/guide rails and ball screws/ and perpendicular/ball screw supports.

When painted and ready, mount them the same way. So the only necessary adjustment will me made by the play of the bolts that hold the ball screw end supports to the fixtures. Tighten them when gantry is at that end.

In other words, now all 2 rails and 2 ballscrews are exactly parallel and have exactly same travel. Doesn't matter if one is up or down, otherwise using other method that also should be taken care of.

PS. Somebody has to hold the screw not to bend by its weight and the weight of the fixture

Silyavski thank so much for your time and your help
Also thanks for your plans and your colored designs
I will make the legs ( they wont be 6cm long) i will make them as sort as possible
I will use them to perfectly level the machine while apply the epoxy at x axis, and if the floor is leveled when i pu the machine at its final position, i may only use shims

Thanks again

Vagelis

Ps:My ballcrew end support fixtures wont be welded but bolted at the frame so it will be possible to make small adjustments

Hi everybody
Here is my last week progress
Firstly i get the bolts and the steel pieces laser cutted last Friday
Attachment 13035Attachment 13036

In order to save money i didnt laser cut the holes ( wherever needed ) except the straight slots. I just ask to point the center of the holes
So i use these centers and then i drill the holes

Attachment 13037Attachment 13038Attachment 13039

At the following photo you can see two pieces that will be bolted together. The upper piece will be welded with the gantry tubes and then it will be bolted with the lower piece. The holes of the two pieces should be excactly coeficient so i drill the upper piece an the i put the one piece over the other to mark the ceter of the holes
Attachment 13040Attachment 13041
After pointing the centers i had to drill the holes. That took me A LOT OF TIME. Even more time i need for the tapping
Attachment 13042Attachment 13043Attachment 13044

Today i start the adjustable foot construction. Syliavski suggest me not to put that foots. Even if i use them or not they are very usefull to level the table as perfect as possible for the epoxy method. You will see each foot has 4 holes. The one at the center is for the bolt the other two ( the smaller ones ) are to bolt a softer material at the side of the foot that touch the ground. The fourth hole is for bolting the foot at the floor


Attachment 13045Attachment 13046Attachment 13047Attachment 13048Attachment 13049

Then i lift the table with the winch and put the foots
Attachment 13050Attachment 13051
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S1RO4O7IUfc
After that i go on with the tapping. Too much time but the result was more than good
Attachment 13052Attachment 13053Attachment 13054Attachment 13055
After i bolt the side parts i start to work with the gantry. I put the two side braces on the table and then i attach the vertical 10m plate.
Attachment 13056Attachment 13057
If you can see the stell plate has two projections ( left and right ) that will "sit" at the side braces so that the distance will be driven by these slots. It is something like a tagram.

Attachment 13058
Then i use long bolts to "tune" the gantry

Attachment 13059Attachment 13060Attachment 13061
At the follwing video you can see how everyhing joined nice
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SvcRhIGgUe8
At the above photos you cant see the gantry tubes, as i put them later. But you can see them at the follwing video where i make a level test
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q90-rIGHBj8&feature=youtu.be

This is my progress so far. Tomorrow i will bolt the front steel plate at the tubes and weld the tubes with the internal side plates

Thanks for your time
I will be glad to here your comments

Vagelis

The laser cut parts look great, I like how the holes have been marked with both a centre and an outline of the hole. This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;
If the outline of the hole had not been marked you would not know if the drill had moved off centre.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ESWzx3YBo3g

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Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

This is good engineering practice and I don't know if you already know this but if the drill moves off centre this is how to bring it back into line;

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Nah good engineering practice is to do it right first time and use a proper spot drill not some poxy pin prick mark.!!

Looking Good Vagelis don't drop it on your toes mate. . .Lol . . . . . .Drilling & Tapping 100's of holes in 10mm steel is good for building character and stamina needed to setup and run CNC machine. . :thumsup: