NordicCNC's build log

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

No they will be correct, they are twin start screws. If you look carefully at the end you will see multiple threads, but it's easy to check just rotate the ballnut and measure how far it moves.

It's a common mistake.

The reason they use this method is it gives higher torque and lessens the depth required and keeps the screw stronger.

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Omg I will be so happy when confirming this. I believe you and Andy. It really sucked out all my energy when measuring today. Now I have hope again!

I have also received following parts:
- 4x DMM 400w servo motors and drives. One is with a brake.
- ATC spindle from Jianken, 3.2kW with BT30 interface, sunfar E550 VFD, Waterpump and 100mm spindle bracket.
- Aluminium tooling plates from Germany.
- Ethernet SmoothStepper combined with MB3 breakout board.
- 1000mm straight edge DIN 874/2 and 300x200 square DIN875/1 from Helios Preisser.
- 20mm linear rails, 1605 and 2010 ballscrews, cable dragchains from BSTmotion.

I am still waiting for aluminium profiles and HTD pulleys.

I will post some pictures soon to show you guys all the hardware.

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Originally Posted by NordicCnc

Omg I will be so happy when confirming this. I believe you and Andy. It really sucked out all my energy when measuring today. Now I have hope again

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99.9999% Sure they will be correct. I did exactly the same first time I came across them so yes I know that feeling you felt.!:dejection:

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Originally Posted by Kered

Can someone of yous enlighten me as to why nobody uses them

Derek

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You'll see some diagonals in welded steel frames but I suspect with aluminium it's the practicality as you sugest. If the profile manufacturers made the fittings for it and the builders bought the saws for it then you'd see nothing else.

Any recommendations on building your electronics enclosure yourself versus buying one? I am struggling to find one that I think will be large enough for any sensible price. I want to fit everything in the sam enclose, which includes:

(3 phase 400V mains)
- AC line reactor
- Mains filter
- E550 Sunfar VFD
- 4x Dyn4 drives
- 1A schaffner filters for each drive
- MB3 breakout board
- 1 or 2 24VDC power supplys
- Mains circuit breaker
- Contactor for E-stop circuit
- Relay for E-stop circuit
- Circuit breakers for each independent phase (insteaf of regular fuses)
- Terminals

It starts to seem like I would nees atleast a cabinet sized 800x600x250mm. I figure welding my out of sheet metal would be cheapest.

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I can assure you that 800x600 is too small :)
This is what I have and everything is cramped inside.

I bought mine from rs-online, price seemed reasonable.

My next build I'm going to look at using small extrusion for a enclsoure frame, then one can make it any size one wants.

I dithered for ages about this, feels like they should be cheaper.

In the end I went for a Tempa Pano EKO, which enabled me to have a glass front. From memory, the non-glass version, 800x600x300 was about £115, with glass circa £130.

http://www.tempapano.com/en/eko/

Is it overkill? Yeah. Is it nice? Uh-huh.

Space wise, I think its about right... theres plenty of room left in mine, and allowed lots of space for airflow and future expansion. But, honestly, I'm not using most of the depth and its all about how you want to package it. I could probably have fitted the same components in 500x500 or less. Have a look on my log for a reminder of how full up my cabinet is, page 9 post #87 has a photo.

Alternatively, I also looked at used server racks, which seemed like a viable option.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NordicCnc

Any recommendations on building your electronics enclosure yourself versus buying one? I am struggling to find one that I think will be large enough for any sensible price. I want to fit everything in the sam enclose, which includes:

(3 phase 400V mains)
- AC line reactor
- Mains filter
- E550 Sunfar VFD
- 4x Dyn4 drives
- 1A schaffner filters for each drive
- MB3 breakout board
- 1 or 2 24VDC power supplys
- Mains circuit breaker
- Contactor for E-stop circuit
- Relay for E-stop circuit
- Circuit breakers for each independent phase (insteaf of regular fuses)
- Terminals

It starts to seem like I would nees atleast a cabinet sized 800x600x250mm. I figure welding my out of sheet metal would be cheapest.

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Don't buy anything until you have everything electrical and lay it out on the bench. Servo drives require a lot more space than steppers for cooling purposes and just physically larger anyway. Also think about fitting fans and the Air flow when placing drives etc.

Given that your mostly using extrusion then I'd use aluminium panels and some small extrusion and build the control box into the lower frame if possible.

Talk about keeping us in suspenders,??? . . . . Was the pitch wrong.?

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Talk about keeping us in suspenders,??? . . . . Was the pitch wrong.?

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Sorry, the pitch was of course correct! Thanks for having me double check, I dont think I've realized unless until the build was finished!

About building the enclosure into lower frame with aluminium plates is a good idea. I have a large 2mm aluminium sheet lying around that I could use. For the next step I will lay out the electrical components in 3D and make a wiring diagram to ensure I have accounted for everything.

I've seen that atleast both DMM and Sunfar recommends either mains filter or both mains filter and line reactor for the mains power supply. I have seen people here using line filters but I haven't come across anyone using line reactors yet. Is that really as necessary as the manufacturers are claiming it to be?

Also mounting the electrical enclosure directly to the frame (made of aluminium) would it be a problem since it would basically be in direct contact with the machine frame? I mean that would be a direct earth connection for the enclosure. I am not too into electronics (yet)!

Thanks everyone for your good and helpful advice!

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