Doesn't the column bolt down to the base with 4 bolts?
If so you can shim front to back, then shim side to side.
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Doesn't the column bolt down to the base with 4 bolts?
If so you can shim front to back, then shim side to side.
Yes, as I said in post No. 4, that's how I did it, and it's perfect. But aligning the column is not enough, you also need to align the spindle axis.
To give you an example, if you tilt the whole column 20 degrees to the right, your spindle will also tilt 20 degrees to the right because it is attached to the column, but you want to be able to tilt both independently.
And the reason is that column and spindle don't come from factory 100 percent parallel to each other, unfortunately, if they did, then shimming the column would be all that is needed.
If there is no way of adjusting for this parallelism between column and spindle, well, you are buggered basically.
Edward
I have a feeling we are talking at cross purposes:)
Forget the word "tram" for a minute.
Basically you align the column first so it is square to the table.
Then, and only then, you align the spindle to the table. In that order. That's provided you can do it. Not possible with a fixed head.
Alternatively, you make sure that column and head run parallel to each other, then you just square them to the table.
I guess modifying the dovetails would do it, if properly done, but that's way beyond my scope.
Edward
Agreed, as I said above:)
Luckily the error is something I can live with.
Edward
Thank you, re-machining to dovetail on the opposite side to the gibs so that head and column run completely parallel seems like a solution. But it is way beyond my scope, something better left to the experts:)
Next mill will have a head adjustment, that's for sure:)
Edward
Latest news on this subject:)
I came across this video by hossmachine about tramming the head to the column.
I stuck a rod in the spindle and followed his procedure exactly, setting up my indicator like he has done, as I have the same bars. I can't adjust the head like he can, as mine is fixed but I was nevertheless very curious to see how far off my mill head was using this method.
First I jogged to the top of the rod, rotated the spindle by hand and zeroed it to be exactly half way between the maximum plus and minus readings of the runout. Since this was measured at the top of the rod, the runout deflection was quite small.
Then, without touching anything, I simply jogged the Z axis so that the indicator was at the bottom of the rod. I rotated the spindle again and the deflection on either side of zero was exactly the same. I did the same to the Y side of the rod. So I guess this mean I have been worrying about nothing?
Provided this method is good, and I am only going by his video, then I guess I am OK.
Edward
Tramming video by Hoss here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40Q61UAnOTA
So if your spindle is parallel to your Z axis movement and you have your column square to the bed there will be no error when you check the tram?