Gustave Build : Woodworking router

-I believe for a beginner is more difficult to mount properly the rails on the gantry if they are not on one plane, precision wise

-its ugly the motors to be at the front, put them at the back

-100x100x3 is well enough for the base

-invert that motor on the Z so it's not so ugly sticking up, also all would look more compact

-This machine looks much like my first build combined with Deans Gantry design, so you can check how i made the z and maybe all the build log, furthermore i have the plans in sketchup for free

-invest in a proper straight edge and save on that epoxy, by just shimming the rails. Long ago when was making mine 1st build, i was insisting on the epoxy and wondering why Dean shims the rails, now i know, 200e in my pocket. i would buy calibrated steel bar say 40x6mm and epoxy that precisely to the frame and mount rails on top of ut

-check the Youtube video of that one i am talking about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9hT...ature=youtu.be

-for a serious Z axis you would like to move the rails not the bearing carriages, furthermore overhang should be as minimal as possible and that a key in for a perfect finish on metal.

-servos are 10x upgrade over steppers IMO, go for it, 2:3 is the correct ratio for such machine, 400w 230VAC

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Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski

-I believe for a beginner is more difficult to mount properly the rails on the gantry if they are not on one plane, precision wise
-> mounting and tuning I have to think deeper on how I am gonna to proceed. There isn't lot of information on that step

-its ugly the motors to be at the front, put them at the back
-> Yes I correct that on the latest design I put the motor on the back

-100x100x3 is well enough for the base
-> really, I could be a more economic choice and easier with my 160A TIG. But in this post Dean recommend 6mm tick on simular structure ?

-invert that motor on the Z so it's not so ugly sticking up, also all would look more compact
-> Look at the latest design #6, I done like you suggest

-This machine looks much like my first build combined with Deans Gantry design, so you can check how i made the z and maybe all the build log, furthermore i have the plans in sketchup for free
-> Thank you, I also read and probably be inspired by you design also... Can you send me you plan in private message ? I try do download it by the link don't work or I don't find it ... I am not certain

-invest in a proper straight edge and save on that epoxy, by just shimming the rails. Long ago when was making mine 1st build, i was insisting on the epoxy and wondering why Dean shims the rails, now i know, 200e in my pocket. i would buy calibrated steel bar say 40x6mm and epoxy that precisely to the frame and mount rails on top of ut
-> Finally I change and go on aluminium bed with 160x80 X. It is cheaper and simpler than steel plus epoxy.

-check the Youtube video of that one i am talking about https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9hT...ature=youtu.be
-> Yes I already view it, I will look at again

-for a serious Z axis you would like to move the rails not the bearing carriages, furthermore overhang should be as minimal as possible and that a key in for a perfect finish on metal.
-> Could you develop, I write than both mount have their own pros/cons but don't remember that it have impact on finish.

-servos are 10x upgrade over steppers IMO, go for it, 2:3 is the correct ratio for such machine, 400w 230VAC

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-> have you recommandation on model and provider ? Dean advice to go on closed loop for the ease of wiring, setup and reliability, I am interested to have different opinions !

Thank you for you help

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Originally Posted by Gustave

-> have you recommandation on model and provider ? Dean advice to go on closed loop for the ease of wiring, setup and reliability, I am interested to have different opinions !

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Don't confuse the Panasonic Servo's Boyans using with the cheap Chinese versions, they are completely different animals.

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Originally Posted by Gustave

Do you have example of closer loop stepper that use main power ?
I will work on twin ball screw version... Thank you

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https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3279...66606f37xA9hrK

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Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski

-for a serious Z axis you would like to move the rails not the bearing carriages, furthermore overhang should be as minimal as possible and that a key in for a perfect finish on metal.

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I would like to challenge this claim a little bit: The spindle motor is as stiff as its axis, bearings and housing. Take the allowed clamping area of the spindle motor, which is usually 150mm. Add the tool length and tool holder length to that, and you will have a 200mm gantry clearance, if the spindle is clamped in the spindle bracket at its highest allowed point. This means that you can have a short front plate, only as long and wide as you want to space the carriages. What becomes critical here is how you design the upper part of the rear plate. This design needs to be stiff when machining with the Z-axis raised up high.

In the end, rails on the front plate will be stiffer and will allow a greater gantry clearance. But if 200mm gantry clearance is enough for you, then I think the design I have described is better.


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Originally Posted by NordicCnc

I would like to challenge this claim a littlw bit: The spindle motor is as stiff as its axis, bearings and housing. Take the allowed clamping area of the spindle motor, which is usually 150mm. Add the tool length and tool holder length to that, and you will have a 200mm gantry clearance, if the spindle is clamped in the spindle bracket at its highest allowed point. This means that you can have a short front plate, only as long and wide as you want to space the carriages. What becomes critical here is how you design the upper part of the rear plate. This design needs to be stiff when machining with the Z-axis raised up high.

In the end, rails on the front plate will be stiffer and will allow a greater gantry clearance. But if 200mm gantry clearance is enough for you, then I think the design I have described is better.

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I agree 100% and having built them both ways I know this to be true. The difference between them is so negligible it doesn't matter in all but the hardest materials which typical routers are NOT designed to cut. There are many other areas which could be improved or done that would have a much bigger effect.

While what you say is true for a short to normal Z travel, when the rails are on the front Z moving plate there are a couple major benefits:

- the overhang of is considerably smaller, like 5cm or more
- the rails themselves strengthen the plate
- the whole spindle body strengthens the plate if clamped with 2 clamps at all extension length
- once you have the design for 200mm you can easily change it for 300 or more mm Z travel

Details and notation of my Z axis if you have recommandation to improve stiffness, reduce the cost, facilitate assembly or the tuning...
Spindle dimensions correspond to the JGD-80 2.2kw 80mm from http://www.jian-ken.com/,

Attachment 28096 Attachment 28097 Attachment 28098 Attachment 28099 Attachment 28100

Looks very well. I would have made all that Z from 10mm steel plate, cheap and easy to assemble/ weld/

Hi,
I have 90x180mm aluminium profil for the gantry and I am not sure on using one or combine two as L-shape as I plan previously with the 80x120mm section. The gantry is 1450mm width. What do you think about it ? bellow some sketch

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Originally Posted by Gustave

Hi,
I have 90x180mm aluminium profil for the gantry and I am not sure on using one or combine two as L-shape as I plan previously with the 80x120mm section. The gantry is 1450mm width. What do you think about it ? bellow some sketch

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Attachment 28572

Attachment 28573