Attachment 29189Attachment 29188Attachment 29190Hi Doddy,
Going to check the continuity on the cables now.
I’ve attached a couple of pictures of the spindle and the wires
Thanks again for your help
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Attachment 29189Attachment 29188Attachment 29190Hi Doddy,
Going to check the continuity on the cables now.
I’ve attached a couple of pictures of the spindle and the wires
Thanks again for your help
Thanks for those images, confirms m y assumption over the choice of spindle. Also indicates you have a small setup issue with Mach3 which is unimportant at this time. Your first post shows the VFD illuminating the FORward LED - I'm assuming you can drive this with an M3 command and extinguish it with an M5... thats really the last bit that would convince me that you have Mach3 control onto the VFD and that the problem lies in the VFD/wiring/spindle.
Actually, you can check the continuity of the loom and spindle through those three sockets on the connector in the photo - just check for a couple of ohms between each pair (1-2, 2-3, 1-3).
I’ve just checked the wires running from the spindle to the VFD and the three sockets on the connector and I’m getting a consistent reading on all of them.
Does this mean it could be a MACH3 issue?
Cheers
Ben
I don't think this is a Mach3 issue. You've said already that you can command a forward rotation from Mach3 onto the VFD (first post - "FOR" LED illuminated, "F400.0" commanding full speed rotation. No spindle movement.
What were the measurements on the connector?
Ok just hoping it might not be a hardware issue
Here are the readings from the connector
1825
1780
1755
I'm assuming that those are the readings from the 3-pin connector, with the other end connected to the spindle. And that those are in the milli-Ohm range?
I'm asking because I've just been to measure my 2.2kW spindle...
Attachment 29191
All combinations between three pins were measured at 1.6 Ohm. (or, broadly speaking, 1600 milli Ohm) as...
Attachment 29193
Attachment 29192
A number of 1825, 1780 or 1755 would make sense, if on a milli-Ohm range (very unusual / expensive meter) - or possible presented as "1.825" Ohm?,
A value of 1825 Ohm would concern me somewhat.
I’ve double checked the readings and they are showing the same. The metre is showing its reading at milli-OhmQuote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Ah, good... I did want to confirm that - it's unusual (or maybe I'm behind the times) to get general purpose DMMs with milli-Ohm ranges. Never mind, onwards and upwards.
I'm assuming that you're confident then that the three phases of the motor are all in the same region of around 1.6-1.8 Ohm then that's largely convinced me that the spindle is okay - and that's no surprise, there's not usually problems with the spindle I would always check the harness (cables fracture over time if moved) - but I think you've discounted that. The weak link in the chain would always be the power electronics on the VFD.
If you had a working system (ironic, I know) I'd recommend reconfiguring the VFD to drive it manually from the VFD just to remove every other variable from the equation, but not being able to test the spindle means this is likely to just add confusion to the situation. I'm depending on your description that you've been able to present demands from Mach to the VFD (creating the rotational demands - the 'F400.0'/'F090.0' etc previously, and the indication of a forward command ('FOR' LED on the first picture... though you've not re-confirmed that in a later question).
At this point I personally would be measuring the 3-phase outputs from the VFD to the spindle, with a rotational demand of "F050.0" (M3 S300, I think we got to). But, this is something you should only attempt if you know what you're doing. My thoughts are, though, that you're likely to see basically no volts on the 3-phase output, then I'd be into the VFD to check the internal DC bus on the power board. But, unless you're confident with what you're doing I cannot recommend that you try this - it's potentially hazardous. Are you confident working on powered mains supplies?
I’m really not confident doing this test. But thank you so much for your help.Quote:
Originally Posted by Doddy
Cheers
Ben
Here's a thought - with power removed, remove the two screws on the front of the VFD - not the ones mounting this to the back plate, but there's a removable panel on the front of the VFD - lower half. remove those and the panel slides off - exposing the screw terminals. Get a photo of that.
EDIT: I'm clutching at straws of what you can examine safely at this point. It'd be embarrassing if one of the terminals had come loose from there.