Damn you Robin.......now I want one :)
Would be useful to be able to make my own gears for my RC helis...guess I'll have to add that to the long list of "nice to haves" that I currently have!
Printable View
Damn you Robin.......now I want one :)
Would be useful to be able to make my own gears for my RC helis...guess I'll have to add that to the long list of "nice to haves" that I currently have!
Yes, I forgot about the heated bed. Also what goes on the heated bed! Mine came with perf board, bulldog clips and a scraper thing so you can get it back to flat for the next job. Other options seem to be paint and tape. Apparently it has to get a good grip on the bed or things go to hell in a handbasket PDQ. I haven't had any problems, yet.
Close up pics. It seemed a bit unkind to point digi-microscope at it before I had it all figured out, but I'm not selling 3D printers so what do I care.
3d1.jpg shows the printed item still attached to the perf board with the "support raft" still in place.
3d1a.jpg is a close up of a gear tooth top.
3d1b.jpg shows a gear tooth from the side
3d1c.jpg shows an M4 spacer pushed in to a hex hole. It couldn't quite smear the plastic surface on the thin edge so you can see the internal structure.
3d1d.jpg is about as bad as it can get. This is the botttom of a 27.5mm tube resting on the bed so it is all requiring support from below.
Edit: To be fair I should remind you that I haven't pressed the "Fine" button yet. This slows everything down so it can get more heat into the plastic. These were printed using the default settings which is reasonably quick. The big gear took about an hour 45.
I've been itching to get or built a 3D printer for a while and almost ordered a Makerbot Replicator until I saw these: Formlabs - High Resolution Desktop 3D Printer
Chris
At last, something useful !
I saw this on thingiverse and made it twice before I realised his design was crap.
Redrew it from scratch and it works a treat.
http://www.robinhewitt.net/Printing.wmv
Has to be good for 99p on ebay :hysterical:
Yes it is delicious, but this is the kickstart resin printer I mentioned. I understand they got whacked with a patent violation :very_drunk:Quote:
Originally Posted by Washout
& they'll be bogged down in that lawsuit till the money runs out. The kickstarters 'might' get their machines but I doubt they'll risk any kind of mass production & I doubt they'll win the lawsuit. Which is a damned shame.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Hi Robin, that looks brilliant, I want one. However I have no chance of getting one as I have a large new laser in the garage which has never even yet got around to fitting the tube!!!
The piece you have made I assume was drawn in 2d. Are you able to draw in 3d as I dont even know where to start, and would to try to find a course(for the simple minded.
Regards,G
Have you tried sketchup? Used on this forum by quite a few & lots of tutorials available for itQuote:
Originally Posted by GEOFFREY
Trimble SketchUp
Thanks Martin I will give that a try.
It is not easy to get out of the 2D mindset and let the jolly old creative juices flow. We tend to work in bar, plate and rod because that is what is available and it can be pricy stuff so you don't want to machine too much of it away.Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOFFREY
To go 3D you really need to work in clay or hammer forged iron, but that doesn't help much if you are trying to produce a 3D drawing you can cut from.
Most 3D drawing is done by extruding 2D drawings either as lumps or holes, running shapes around outlines and lofting.
Lofting can be either three stacked 2D drawings connected with flowing curves that morph to fit each shape in turn. It can be two 2D drawings and a trajectory line. You can get really arty-farty with a bit of lofting.