Just noticed that your Samsung drivers appear to be the same as the Omron that I have. Obviously all made by Yaskawa and branded to suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
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Just noticed that your Samsung drivers appear to be the same as the Omron that I have. Obviously all made by Yaskawa and branded to suit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
By Iskawa not, by Parker i believe. But yes...Quote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
I noticed on the RS (Rockwell Samsung) website that they started making Yaskawa inverters under license in 1989 - presumably the servo drives followed on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
This is not going well. A few people have bits and pieces but has anyone done the full X, Y, Z Monty? Even Gary seems to avoid selling servo motors with driver and cables in one package and most everything is out of stock. There seem to be steppers with encoders masquerading as affordable servo kits just to trap doddery old gits with more money than sense like me. Most of it seems to be a few big name motors and drivers being passed around on e-bay but never actually used.
Or have I completely misunderstood?
What do you need exactly from the aforementioned options? The cheapest JMC servos plus drives / around 180$ each kit where you need 80V transfrormer or PSU, you get cables with them/ , The 220V AC servos second hand /Panasonic, Samsung where you buy them for around 250euro the kit with cables/ or new 230v AC Servos from BST automation/ where you buy the kit with cables again/ .Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
I would consider only these 3 options and nothing else. If you need help choosing from them then let's discuss it. All other options are no good for my liking, price wise, complexity, support and so on
Just to chuck in my two penn'orth, I'm not so sure that the cables are so much of a problem. Having done a bit of research on my Yaskawa/Omron drives the plugs are nothing special and available from RS and the like. The manuals give all the wiring information - a bit of suitable cable, a soldering iron and you're away.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Are you thinking about servos for your mill/drill Robin? If so, I'd counsel hanging on to your cash and buying a Denford Triac or similar then going from there. From what you said about the quill you'd be throwing money at a machine that's never going to quite hit the mark despite all of the excellent work you've done on it:apologetic:
I agree, though depending on your skill it takes time to sort things out and solder. it took me a lot of time to solder my cables .Quote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
Good point, well made. I'd sooner buy a proper factory made cable any day, but they are so expensive. I think if a bargain driver/motor combo turns up with short cables that shouldn't put one off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
Thats what i did , my beast did not like even 6m cables so i had to make 10m some of them using the TME cables, which honestly for 2euros per meter are incredible deal. They have all possible connectors tooQuote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
I'd forgotten that you mentioned tme.eu. At 2 Euro a metre they're a no-brainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
If I read it right, Gary would do me a set of three 400W motors and drivers for £1260 + tax. That doesn't sound too awful but I know nothing about servo motors. I'm not shopping, just cogitating.
The time component of making cables is very often overlooked.
For a hobbyist it's not normally a problem spending a few hours finding the connectors/cable/wiring diagram and physically making the cables, but when time is money, pre-made cables are cheap.
All my servos have been bought from Gary/Zapp. Certainly not the cheapest option, but he's not just a box shifter, and should you need any advise, he's only an email/phone call away.
One thing to bear in mind, is servos should be inertia matched to their load for best performance. Too big or too small a servo for any given load will not give a good tune. The spindle on my mill demonstrates that perfectly. It's a 110 frame medium inertia servo, and the best positional accuracy I can get before things go unstable is about 200 encoder counts, as it's not got enough of a load to help stabilise it. My lathe on the other hand, which has small inertia 60/80 frame servos, holds sub 20 counts without any problem, as the servo load is a good match to provide stability.
I plan on making my own servo cables, mainly due to the issue of the available pre-made cable lengths.
Most come in 3, 5, or 10m lengths. When you get to just over 5m, you can end up with a lot of unused cable length. But is you're needs are close to the pre-made lengths, you won't save much at all making your own.
To a lay idiot like me, you seem to be saying that there is some complicated matching that needs to be done on each axis before purchasing a servo system to avoid it being a huge disappointment. My steppers suddenly start to seem like God's gift to His chosen few. Am I misunderstanding?Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Just a bit maybe. I went from steppers to servos and dont think i will ever look back. The other day i had here a vinyl plotter, was looking to buy. What stopped me was it was not servos but steppers, and somehow the noise put me off.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
I got help from knowledgeable members of forum at the time which did the calcs for me what i need for my machine. So 100% here people will help you. Now i know more and can do that myself but surely will ask for advice if i am not sure. That's what the forum is for.
Anyway, as i have concluded many times, servos are a must for a metal working machine, production machine and hi resolution micro mill. All else could be done from steppers
PS. what put me off for the plotter was not only the noise but the ability of the plotter to track correctly longer lengths of vynil, if it was servo
Just apply some common sense. Don't go bolting a high inertia motor to a X1, and don't try using a small inertia servo on a quarter ton table. Use something a reasonable size.Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Given what Agathon has posted links to, I would of though 400 or 750 watt servos would work nicely.
The smaller machine you've posted a photo of, I would of thought 200 or 400 watt.
To give some idea, IIRC Denford Triacs with servos, came with 200W servos, however they'd be conservatively sized due to being aimed at education. They perform well enough, however 400W would give a good boost to performance and work just as well.
Yes, I think the 200W Omron drivers I've just bought will be too small, but will try them geared at 3:1. They were very cheap, so I'm not worried if I have to put them back on the market. I shall be keeping an eye out for 400W which is what they currently fit to the very slightly larger version of my machine.Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
Do you know what the ratio was on the Triac servos?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
I am moving a 200kg gantry with 2x400w servos / via rotating nuts which have smaller inertia than spinning a screw / 3000 mms2 acceleration and judjing from the servo tuning and initial calculations, its the perfect thing. Exact sizing. geared 1.5, not 3. So with 200W servos geared 1.5 you could do a lot of things. No need to gear them up so if not needed. As gearing up will increase the spinning mass so maybe you will not benefit as you think ... 20/30 tooth is an ideal relation and pulley size. For lighter load you could go down as 16t but mind the servo shaft size. I would say for 200W servos, 18t pulley will be right, start thinking from there...
I am not sure also how Chinese servos stand up to brand servos. If 400w is 400w really? What i know is that the brand servos stand up to what they say. Thats why i preferred 230V AC servos , for all that benefits. If i buy a chinese servo i will always Up it one level of power so just to be sure. 750W isntead of 400 :tan:
I think it was Calcomp had the patent on using grit for the driving rollers and everyone else looked jealous. I used to repair these things, a long time ago :culpability:Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
I've only got the parts list for the stepper version, and it uses 12:30. Chaz has a servo version, but I don't think there would be much room to go for a higher ratio.Quote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
What size timing pulleys would you suggest for 200 or 400 watt servos? I was thinking that 5M 9mm wide belt should be about right. Centres should be around 100mm.
I'd say 15mm belt width minimum.
If you download the Gates DF software, it will generate suitable drive options.
Just in case you helpful fellows haven't seen my new thread on trying to connect up the drivers to the BOB - here it is: http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/11159...ut-board-Mach3
Hi guys, I'm going to build a machine to drill and tapping one part, I'm thinking use a servo for tapping and a regular spindle for drilling. Using a regular servo I can do rigid M3 tapping on 2mm aluminium sheet? Have anyone experience with something similar? Tks
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To do rigid tapping you will need a quadrature encoder on the servo and some thing like Linuxcnc to control it.Quote:
Originally Posted by lp_felix
Here is a link in Portugal where you can buy the Mesa cards 6i25 with 7i77 bob will do it.
Are you think of having the spindle and servo on the same gantry?
You can also do rigid tapping with UCCNC, and with Mach3/4 with the right motion controller.
Yes, spindle and servo on same gantry.. Ok, I have a lot of questions but i will study quadrature encoder and servo first, and do stupid questions later.. Thank you for the help. [emoji1][emoji106]Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
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Hi Ger21, in fact I planing use uccnc. I have a spare Uc300 5lpt (from other unfinished project) I will read the manual.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ger21
Thanks for the tip. [emoji106] [emoji1]
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If it is always the same tap, no pitch change, why not gear vertical displacement to rotation? Drive it with anything you like.
I suggest you take the advice of the guy who didn't know what a harmonic drive was and couldn't be arsed to look it up before being clever about being wrong :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Agathon
I know what a harmonic drive gearbox is, i was just incorrect on the technical term used to describe them. I was selling them 15 years ago, but made by spinea.
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Originally Posted by magicniner