There is a posibility that the chips are not actually Toshiba, but cheap copies?
This is quite common in china.
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There is a posibility that the chips are not actually Toshiba, but cheap copies?
This is quite common in china.
The board I have seems to have the genuine Toshiba AHQ spec chips fitted. Either that or they have gone to a lot of trouble forging the TOSHIBA markings and logo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
The H bridge in the chip itself is designed to discharge the inductance but the board has external diodes as well as protection. I cant see that the problem is the enternal diodes fitted to the board. You could measure to see if the board diodes on the blown chip motor output pins are damaged, If they are not then this implies these were not the reason for the failure of the chip. The diodes are FR307 which are 3A fast recovery diodes. These are rated at 1000V VR witha 200A surge and a 1.3V Vf and can withstand an average of 3 Amps continuously.Quote:
Originally Posted by williamturner1
Hope this helps
Printing the toshiba logo on the chip is the easy part.
Fake IC's in china have been going on for years, they even copy memory chips, and brand them so they can sell them for more.
These fake chips have even made it into branded TV's and computer equipment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1113562
Gary, I think you are getting a bit carried away here. I can't see that there is enough world market sales in specialist stepper motor driver chips like the TB6560 to make it worth there while doing a replica. Faking memory chips and consumer IC's as you identify maybe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary
Anyway my Chinese driver with TB6560's works fine. The only criticism is the slightly inadequate heat sink and fan assembly but thats quite easy to upgrade and will only bother those working at full power for long periods.
Another Newbie,
I am looking at using this board as a hotwire cutter for RC aircraft wings (4 Axis).
1. Does this board need any other driver boards ? (i.e. Direct connect computer to printer port, stepper motors direct connect).
2. Is there an updated manual with correct pinouts as you guys have discovered ?
Much appreciate any advice.
Rick
The driver board needs no other parts other than a DC Power Supply. Mine came with a Parallel port cable to connect to the PC printer port and came with the connectors for the stepper motors which allow you to connect directly (they have screw terminals in the connectors - quite neat). The DC Power supply to drive the board and steppers needs to be of the correct voltage and current rating. I have a FARNELL B30/10 PSU which is variable 0-30V with a current output of 10 Amps max continuous ..... ideal for this board. If you have to wire in HOME/Estop and End Stop safety switches you will need to seperately purchase a small header socket and crimps to fit the tiny 2 mm pitch PCB header for these interfaces. These are available from RS - I can advise part numbers assuming it is the same as my board.Quote:
Originally Posted by cleansurf2
The board I have is a 3 Axis plus spindle start/stop relay but I believe there is a 4 axis version. The manual for the 4 axis may be correct for pin-out and DIP switch settings.Quote:
2. Is there an updated manual with correct pinouts as you guys have discovered ?
As you may have read, the silk screen notation on the printed circuit board is correct so if your manual that comes with the board does not line up with the PCB artwork then you should ask questions (on this forum perhaps) before you connect and power up.
John
I've received my TB6560 and started bench testing for a 4 axis hotwire configuration. Looking at using Mach3 + Profili2 for the G-code.
I'm using Axis X, Y, Z, A, running Mach3 v3.042.
Problem is that two of the axis are really slow. I have swapped around the motors to prove there OK. So the problem is likely Mach3 config.
Mach3 was more complex than I expected, so far can't find the configuration problem (I''m an electronics Tech).
Anyone offer any advice or a config file to help out.
thanks
Rick
Rick
By default the manual that comes with these boards show Mach3 setup with simple pics. Anything outside this should be the screw size/ pulley size setup details and motor details. I use EMC2 so can not comment where to set that up in M3. Give that area look first?
Rick,Quote:
Originally Posted by cleansurf2
Define 'slow' .. do you mean they dont rotate at the same speed as the other channels with the same settings? I assume you've been through the 'motor tuning' process in the Mach3 tutorial?
I have included the TB6560 Mach3 configuration file that came with my 4 axis board.
Purely bench testing at the moment, board and motors only on the bench.
While in Mach3, when I tab to get the manual controls, 2 axis are at least 100 times slower than the other channels. All the Mach3 motor tuning is set the same.
My board came from a seller that does a video of your board (as waranty proof) before he sends it out. I got the steppers from him also. It showed all 4 of my stepper motors on my board operating at the same revs.
One of his other videos walks me through basic setup, which I have followed. But essentially the config file loads up and I should be good to go, at least for bench testing motor spin.
He did mention, often DB25 cable configuration is a problem. I measured it out, all good, pin 1 to pin 1 etc, is correct. He also mentioned computer bios, will try and get time tonight to have a look. But as I can get 2 channels to operate fine, even when I swap motors around, I don't believe it to be a PC bios problem.
Still a confused newbie, sorry to be a pain guys. :eek:
are you sure the DIP switches on the board are set the same for all channels, no unexpected microstepping?
On the channels that run slow, are they running cleanly, no graunching noises, or fits n spurts? What pulse width do you have set on Mach3.. it should be 5 or more...
I've just loaded your attached profile.
All the velocity / steps / acceleration settings are the same so I can't really see what might be causing it.
Are the slow motors missing steps? Try sending a slow motor one turn forwards then one back and check it returns to the same point. It might be that the driver board is 'missing' lots of the pulses making the motors go slow.
Try going to config->motor tuning and putting the velocity setting up for the slow motors and see if it makes a difference.
Just a thought can you check the setup of the parallel port in the bios and try ecp/ epp etc in turn. This was an issue for me on the first incarnation of this board.
He's got them all set to 2.Quote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
5 is a good figure to start at.
Not familiar with that board but can you jumper the charge pump off, if it has one. Some computerers can hickup on charge pumps depending if they buffer the charge pump signal.
Awsome feedback, thanks Gents.
Where I'm at at the moment. Just set up my gear on a second PC to do a quick check.
Good results, all working at the same speed now, so proved a BIOS or hardware problem on my CNC PC.
Will check the BIOS config on this, my home internet PC, which has the TB6560 board pluged in, and compare it to my CNC PC.
Will post details of the BIOS settings to help others that may encounter this problem.
I do have some minor "graunching noises, or fits n spurts" on Z axis. Swapped over motors, motor OK, definately the channel.
I adjusted pulse width to 5 (which was maximum) in config/motor tunning/Step pulse (0-5us), nil effect, still some minor graunching.
IS THAT THE PULSE WIDTH ADJUST YOU SEGESTED?
thanks
Rick
I checked both my PC BIOS's.
My internet PC (that all axis's worked on). BIOS parallel port setting was [ECP].
My CNC PC was set to [SPP]. I changed it to [ECP]. Good results, well, better.
Now had axis Y and 4 motors turn for a split second and stop (when using manual jog [tab key window]).
Played around for a while, changed dip switch setting on one problem axis for speed, no effect.
Set to 35Khz, my Mach3 original setting was 25khz. nil effect.
I changed the manual jog speed settings from 100% down to 60%, SUCCESS!
Still not real sure why, I am guessing I had exceeded some speed capability somewhere.
loaded a G code (road runner), looked to be working fine (bench test motors only).
Comfortable to start working on my hotwire CNC rig now.
But I can see that the software configuration is where it's going to cost me the time. Mach3 seems bigger than Ben Her at the moment.
Still have to tune it all in once I build my hardware.
Still have to work out how to interface it with Profili2 (RC foam wings / G-code).
Thanks heaps for your input guys.
I will try and add some newbie tips as I plod along discovering issues that may seem a little basic to you guys.
Appreciate any and all advice/comments.
cheers
Rick
Yes that's the right pulse width setting you changed.
Have you tried experimenting with the max velocity values in that same config? If the motors will only manage 60% then set the value to 60% of what it is now - but experiment you might get more!
I will have to probably go that way, adjusting max velocity to what ever it can handle. There is a lot of tweaking I will probably have to do between now and an operating CNC machine. Steep learning curve! At the moment having trouble getting time to put into the project, so I expect to progress slowly at this stage.
I will post significant newbie issues I discover along the way (problems/fixes).
No dought I will be back to pick your brains at some stage with some lame question.
Thanks to all.
Rick
I used my board with 12mm lead screws on nema23 motors with EMC2. The max velocity would not go beyond 40-50 on the X and Y. The Z was a lot less. If that helps at i don't know
Final drive speed is a concern for a 4 axis hotwire foam cutter. It needs to be fast enough to not excessively melt the foam.
I think I'll be OK, won't know till I've built the rig. I haven't bought the threaded rod yet. I could do the math (thread count, max rpm), I think I will just cruze along and see how it turns out. It will be like a suprise, aren't suprises fun, well hopefully!
Cheers
Back again.
Slowly progressing with my hardware for the 4-axis hotwire cutter.
I have read that probably the best software out there for my specific application is GMFC (RC foam wings, including stacked airfoil cuts, creates airfoil G-code and direct drives the stepper control board).
Problem is, all the reading I've been doing about GMFC software, seems to indicate it only works with a specific driver board.
Has anyone got any experience or info on the possibility of using the TB6560 board with GMFC software ?
thanks
Rick
A little googling gets the answer.... the MM2001 interface that GMFC interfaces to uses standard step/dir signals for the motors, but has a heat control interface to manually and via PC set and turn on/off the heat and validate the heat is on. This needs to be replicated alongside your stepper driver. It doesnt look too hard to do, and I think there are some examples on the GMFC site. When I get a moment later this weekend I'll have a look through the circuit diagrams and see which one is easiest to replicate.
thankshttp://www.mycncuk.com/../images/sta...ser-online.png for the info Irving.
There was considerable documentation on the GMFC web site for the MM2001 interface. However I didn't see anywhere if this was specifically for the stepper controller board that GMFC recomend. I was guessing that maybe it would work on the TB6560 board. I found one forum where someone with a TB6560 CNC, had used GMFC, but only to create the G-code for Mach3.
The MM2001 interface IS the stepper controller, there is no separate board. It is a PIC-based 4 axis unit using a crude unipolar drive arrangement. It connects to the PC using the parallel interface. The MM2001 provides a 2000Hz timer interrupt signal back into the PC which the GMFC software uses to generate the PWM heater temperature control. The MM2001 PIC uses this to drive the heater wire and protect it against over heat - i.e. the PIC prevents the PC overdriving the heater wire in the event of an error... This is not essential, but useful, and could easily be replicated. If a non-MM2001 interface is to be used then some way to replicate the timer interrupt is needed and an example of this is here
There are optional additional interfaces MMUSB and GGC which allow a USB connection, but add no new functionality.
The parallel interface uses step/dir signals on the following pins...
Channel 1 - step = 9, dir = 2
Channel 2 - step = 7, dir = 4
Channel 3 - step = 5, dir = 6
Channel 4 - step = 3, dir = 8
Other parallel port connections:
Overall Enable from PC = 17
Heating PWM signal from PC = 16
Heating PWM feedback to PC = 11
PC/Manual mode feedback to PC = 12
Timer interrupt to PC = 10
MM2001 program mode to PC = 1
Not connected 13, 14, 15
Ground 18 - 25
So if you want to drive the TB6560 board directly a small interface board will need to be created to swap the wires around as the GMFC software has no pin configuration capability as far as I can see. This board would usefully add the components for the Timer interrupt and the heater management.
How were you proposing to control the heater wire temperature?
I suggest you start a new thread for this as it could be of wider interest and is OT on this thread.
Irving,
I was looking at just manual hot wire on/off/temp control initially and look into the automation down the track.
Looks like my best option is to make up another DB25 cable configured to the pinouts you gave to run GMFC on my TB6560 board. Then I can swap DB25 leads to run Mach3 when I need. Thanks so much for clearing up the MM2001 interface question and providing all the pinouts, very helpful info.
thanks
Rick
I bought the TB6560 in combination with 4 Nema 23 steppermotors. It works fine with Mach3. It's the intention to use it only with GMFC foamcut software. As Irving sayd its possible. Saw the same solution on the Jedicut site.
The problem is, I don't know anything about electronics :redface:. Simple connecting and making small boards are no problem as long as i know what to connect to what.
So i need the timer from the GMFC site. Thats no problem for me to make. And then i need to swap some pins from the DB25 at the computer side to the controllerboard side. Ok also no problem. Then there is the DB9 port. That one i need also??
I made a easy excelsheet with the components. Maybe someone can ad in this sheet the connections.
I would appreciate that.
Sorry
Theo,
I am still slowly progressing with my hardware build. I will probably start off with Mach3 and Profili2 to get a feel for the CNC process. I would love to try the GMFC combination later on, as it's airfoil stacking capabilities are something I would like to use.
As it will be a while yet before I tackle GMFC (given the additional engineering required), would love to see any new info you obtain.
If you get an update on your attached file, please post.
Rick
I came across this site a while ago and just found it again which makes for n interesting build
http://www.cnc-hotwire.de/
This is the plot cut software he is using
http://www.cnc-hotwire.de/ProgrammDateien/Programme.zip
Re: CNC-gesteuerte Heißdrahtschneidemaschine
I had looked at that hanging hotwire system before. Looks awsome for a basic limitted space occassional home use.
I downloaded the English version. May have to have a play with it down the track. For now I will concentrate on the basics of Mach3/Profili2 standard hotwire CNC machine.
If anyone has some experience with the English version, love some insight into your experience with it.
Over the last few weeks I have had a number of people contact me via PM's asking me questions regarding the TB6560 boards.
One that keeps being asked is the lack of performance (speed) when using microstepping.
I have so far been unable to answer this one.
I had some free time today, so I decided to test my board with microstepping, and guess what I have the same lack of performance (speed).
I scoped the input step signal from the computer, and the step signal to the TB6560 chip.
The step pulses (0-5KHz) from the pc can be seen without a problem.
But there is something strange with the step pulses from the opti to the TB6560.
I was expecting to see a 0-5v square wave, or at least something close to it.
But it's more a 0-5v pulse then ramps back to ground.
The faster the step pulse the more the ground moves away, and at around 4.8KHz the ground is so high that the TB6560 can no longer see the step pulses.
http://www.mad-professor.co.uk/Misc/...0@%20300Hz.jpg
http://www.mad-professor.co.uk/Misc/...@%204.1KHz.jpg
http://www.mad-professor.co.uk/Misc/...20@%205KHz.jpg
Blue scope trace is the input to the board, and the red scope trace is the step input at the TB6560 Chip.
Following the traces on the PCB this is what I have come up with for the Schematic.
http://www.mad-professor.co.uk/Misc/...0Schematic.jpg
Looking at the datasheet for the TB6560 says that it is good for upto 15Khz.
This link was posted in a other forum. Maybe its a solution??
Use Google translate
Hello,
after i did not get response from cnczone i´ll try my first port here:
first problem first post:
I got the board from ebay (seller prettyworthshop)....
I connected the board to power supply with was included. The boards gets 24V - i measured that with a meter.
I connected the board to computer (LPT is set to ECP). I set all the MACH 3 parameters according to the manual (Signal in, Signal out, Motor....)
On the board itself we have 3 LEDS for which show when signal is available for axis movment. If i press cursor in MACH the middle LED (Y) glows only a bit. Above the 3 LEDS there are two LEDS and the right one is on all the time when i connect the parallel cable with the board. When is disconnect, the LED goes out.
The fan is not turning. Motor is connected but not moving...
I don´t know whats the problem. Can somebody help me ?
I hope to get this first problem soved with your help.
By the way - i built the MDF CNC Machine from buidyourcncDOTcom. I want to use tha machine for milling panels for my DIY 737-800 Homecockpit...
Cheers from Wuerzburg Germany
Andy
Andy
It sounds a bit worrying that the fan is not working and would suggest that is sorted first as these boards require sufficient cooling. The LED's to blink and be on is common as some of the pins are live on the port (note do not plug in or out the cable when switched on). I have the older version of this type of board and it does the same thing whilst booting the PC. How many axis does your board support?
Hello,
- so input voltage of 24 V is ok ?
- should the fan start o turn in the moment the board is connected to power supply ?
- i have 3 axis board...
Thanks for any input...
Regards
Andy
Yes the fan should start up straight away so check the 12v supply and wires to the fan. The recommendation of many is to not go beyond 24v so that is fine. Can you supply the details of your steppers and how you have them wired as this will help in diagnosis. List the connections you have made and any config settings in Mach3 would help also. I am afraid i use EMC2 so can not run through the config of Mach3 with you but i am sure somebody else here can validate that for you
Hello,
ok, thanks Y/Z Axis working. X not working. I figured out that i have permanent -0.22V out of PIN 1 (X-step). While for Y and Z i have 0 V and -0,02V when axis is moved. So does anybody knows why i have these -0.22V permanent output ? The DIR PIN for X axis is working - so only the PIN 1 is the problem. I checked in mach, an no other functions are related to PIN 1.
Thanks for any input - step by step t will work someday..
Regards from Germany
Andy
Check this site and confirm you are all wired up the same way with your steppers http://www.dhgate.com/3-axis-tb6560-...ce3532c9a.html post the configuration you have in Mach3.