Fingers crossed it'll cut ally

I'm just looking at spindle design and A/c bearings so I'm intrigued if you know of a cheap type.

Quote:

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im not totaly convinced a double row A/C bearing will be tight enough for ally, the ones iv got dont feel like they have that much pre-load, i might end up stacking the two of them

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Do you mean rigid enough for milling Ali? If so be careful adding addition preload to a factory set tandem one as I believe you just end up un loading one side!!! if its a double row then lock it to the sharp end and fit a floating bearing at the other end.

According to SKF the distance between the CL of the bearings should be 3 to 3.5 time the shaft dia, so 12mm shaft = 36 to 42mm so a 100mm shaft should be way long enough.

The optimum design seems to be to use 2 opposing A/C bearings with a spring loaded pre-tensioner.

Have you seen the "DIY spindle design" on here, or these?
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...t=12184&page=6
http://www.cncathome.com/spindles.html

It seems this has been done many times and the problems are mounting the motor to the spindle, the first link post no. 64 and 65 shows a flexible mount and water cooling for the motor.

I also have an ER11 collet and a RC motor to power it but as its for machine No. 2 I haven't got around to doing anything with it yet. so I will be watching with interest.

Good luck

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

Ah, im with you on the speed issue, i think i get you with the large motor to,, im guessing you would be fitting a rotory encoder for position feedback if you use the large DC motor ? (im no expert with these)

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Err I hadn't really thought about feedback. I was thinking something along the lines of using a stepper motor and the big brushless motor and switching between the two. For instance start by using the big motor for CNC lathe then switch to stepper motor to perform any milling on the part.
It would be good to switch back and forth between the big motor and the stepper but that of course requires the motors to engage at precisely the same point. Maybe get the brushless motor to stop at a set position (doable) and have another solenoid push a pin in the shaft to engage the stepper (tricky) ... the best would be to just use a servo but that's very very expensive to get anywhere near the power of this brushless motor.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

for the brake i would be looking at a motorcyle cluch plate maybe, im not sure youll get the force with electric solenoids to lock it for milling though but thats my guesstimation... id be tempted to consider an actual disk brake and caliper... the caliper would have to be beautfully fitted and have oposing pistons

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I'm not sure about the solenoids either, hence how I've milled spaces for several of them.
Clutch plate... that looks promising.

An actual brake disk and calliper would be very nice. Sounds expensive though. I don't know much about them - what would be required to actuate/use it? Are they available with small enough disks since the biggest disk I would want to use is realistically 6".

Quote:

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I'm just looking at spindle design and A/c bearings so I'm intrigued if you know of a cheap type.

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"5200 zz z 2z ball bearing 10mm A/C" ebay aprox £16 for two... they might be to good to be true

Quote:

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just end up un loading one side!!!

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och!! i hadnt thought of that... i hadnt decided if id just throw two in for good measure or pre-load them against each other
iv decided now!! cheers ross

Quote:

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According to SKF the distance between the CL of the bearings should be 3 to 3.5 time the shaft dia, so 12mm shaft = 36 to 42mm so a 100mm shaft should be way long enough.

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i think you misunderstand, jonathan has a motor that has a 100mm long body so with a 100mm shaft there is no room left to add an A/C bearing and housing


yea iv seen those thread, they make interesing reading, one of those guys has his own ballancing machine!! to posh for me:)

i thought a servo motor was just that "a motor with a rotary encoder" maybe somone can jump in and help us on that one

you could make your own disk easy enough... the calipers would take to much effort compared to going to a bike breakers
you need to look over some motorcycles and posh mountian bikes for inspiration :) im sure some of the mountain bike disk brakes are machanical,,, could be worth a look.. the hydraulic ones would need a cam and lots of torque to actuate

Penis in pocket when around cnc machines is is a very good safety tip, no one wants to miss a tip :-)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Quickly sketched this ...

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Thanks for the explanation. It's good to have it presented so clearly.

iv got some 8mm id A/C bearings but they are open (as apposed to sealed) so for now ill stick with the skate bearings
it would be nice to seal the nose and have a nice light oil swishing around in there :)
Attachment 2570Attachment 2571Attachment 2572
still a bit of work to do on this but it will give those that are interested an idea of what we have been on about

My ER11 10mm shaft turned up,, nice tight fit.. i may loctite it when im happy
Attachment 2616
Iv decided on one double row A/C bearing for now... i left room in the housing for two just in case :)

i ran it no load for ten mins... the bearing gives off more heat than the motor but nothing to drastic, if i remember correctly up tp 110 degrees is passable... it was nowhere near that
Attachment 2617
I tried to keep the housings 43mm but it wasnt really pactical
i havnt fully decided on how to setup the small motor, iv considered inserting an engraving bit straight throgh the motor but im struggling to find engraving bits with enough length to allow for more bearings on the nose... i may modifiy a needle vise....
anyway the engraving motor is not overly inportant to me but Its killing time while i wait for parts for the main build

just got to hope they will work as well as they look :)

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo...raving-Cutters

Quote:

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Originally Posted by z3t4

Yes please!

There was an article in MEW (Feb 2008 issue, No 135 ) about making outrunner motors but there wasn't much about how to power them. I'm guessing that the 'servo tester' provides a PWM pulsetrain and the speed controller (is this aka an 'ESC'?) sees the pulsetrain and uses electromagick to provide a 3-phase supply to the motor.

John

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Quickly sketched this to show aircraft vs cnc application for those interested:

(You could probably delete the 4.8V supply if using a BEC ESC)

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1/ Whats the PWM signal characteristics?

2/ 'Servo Tester' sounds an expensive beast

3/ Surely you'd want a 0-10v input so you could control spindle speed from MACH3?

Cheers George.... i had my fingers crossed... but no joy. the motor body is 30mm i could do with at least 15mm to play with for a housing and bearings,,, those you linked are 38mm and a good bit of that length is taken with the knife,, nice try though xx

irving... the servo testers are between a fiver n tenner ebay... the rest of what you ask is errr... rocket science..
i have read somwhere that the puls rate is way to high for mach3 and would need some kind of conversion

im sure a man like you could rustle one up in your dinner break :)

I'm guessing we are talking about standard RC parts here so, the servo tester most likely outputs a signal of 20ms period. The width of the pulse within this 20ms period determines the output of the ESC. Actual values and their relation to each other depend on the hardware used.

Can the ESC be driven from a 0 to 10v signal? Not directly. I'm sure there'll be something on the web to suit or maybe this is another job for a friendly PIC.

if you guys dream up a simple way of of conecting to mack3 ill have some of that :naughty:

im thinking of basterdising a lazor rev counter... can anyone tell me... will i get away with removing the lazor diode and pickup and extending them out onto my z axis and put the lcd somwhere more sociable?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

im sure a man like you could rustle one up in your dinner break :)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by ecat

I'm guessing we are talking about standard RC parts here so, the servo tester most likely outputs a signal of 20ms period. The width of the pulse within this 20ms period determines the output of the ESC. Actual values and their relation to each other depend on the hardware used.

Can the ESC be driven from a 0 to 10v signal? Not directly. I'm sure there'll be something on the web to suit or maybe this is another job for a friendly PIC.

---

This is an easy job for a single 14pin PIC, two small potentiometers (to set min and max speeds), a diode, a couple of resistors and two capacitors. The diode/resistor/capacitor combo forms a charge pump that converts the fast PWM signal from MACH3 into a voltage which is sampled by the analog-digital converter in the PIC. The same A/D converter samples the settings of the two pots to determine high and low speed limits. The PIC then generates a PWM output that varies according to the incoming voltage from MACH3. A speed sampler could be included in the same device and closed loop functions could be added to maintain set speed against load... With a bigger 20pin PIC the rev counter display could be added... price of the PIC, about £1, total cost <£15 if built on stripboard or enough were built to make setting out a PCB viable. Basic software would take a few days... bit longer for the closed loop stuff...

Hi Irving,

1. This explains far better than I could:
http://www.servocity.com/html/how_do_servos_work_.html

2. Servo tester is £5 - £15
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/prod...oducts_id=1716
The potentiometer on the tester controls the width of the pulses, and replaces the signal it would otherwise get from the reciever. This signal moves the output arm of the servo motor to the required position, or for the throttle, the engine to the required speed. It is fully proportional.

I wondered, with my limited electronics knowledge, whether the pot could be removed (which must just provide the pulse generating part of the servo tester with a 0 - 4.8v output) and via a magic box the Mach3 0-10v could be connected instead.
I'm sure you could come up with something along these lines or better !

Does this help you with a better plan?

Ah, you've already replied. Looks like you have it in hand!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

if you guys dream up a simple way of of conecting to mack3 ill have some of that :naughty:

im thinking of basterdising a lazor rev counter... can anyone tell me... will i get away with removing the lazor diode and pickup and extending them out onto my z axis and put the lcd somwhere more sociable?

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dont bother... the prpoblem with the laser diode ones is that they are sampling devices... press to read... as the laser diode cant handle continuous operation. Its a lot simple to do a slotted vane type approach and one of the many solutions discussed in Rick's Boxford 260VMC thread

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Hi Irving,

1. This explains far better than I could:
http://www.servocity.com/html/how_do_servos_work_.html

2. Servo tester is £5 - £15
http://www.fast-lad.co.uk/store/prod...oducts_id=1716
The potentiometer on the tester controls the width of the pulses, and replaces the signal it would otherwise get from the reciever. This signal moves the output arm of the servo motor to the required position, or for the throttle, the engine to the required speed. It is fully proportional.

I wondered, with my limited electronics knowledge, whether the pot could be removed (which must just provide the pulse generating part of the servo tester with a 0 - 4.8v output) and via a magic box the Mach3 0-10v could be connected instead.
I'm sure you could come up with something along these lines or better !

Does this help you with a better plan?

Ah, you've already replied. Looks like you have it in hand!

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Thanks... I know how RC systems work, just wasnt sure on the PWM characteristics, its 30+ years since I built and flew anything (but my 10y old nephew is showing an interest so maybe I'll resurrect that... along with the 47000 other projects)

MACH3 doesnt produce a voltage just its own fast PWM train, which has to be converted to a voltage. My solution does that, tho it would be possible to use the PWM/ECCP (count and compare) function in the PIC to measure it directly, but that needs a PIC with two PWM channels and the 14pin ones only have one. Needs more software to be written too!

cheers irving, ill have a butchers

I'll post more on Tuesday (I'm on holiday at the moment so no internet!) but I'm pretty sure mach3 will do the PWM. As ecat said the period for the ESC is 20ms, so 1/0.02=50hz. This next bit may be wrong, but anyway...running mach3 on 25khz kernel speed with 50hz PWM gives 25000/50=500. So that means you get 500 'steps' between 0% and 100% duty cycle. The ESC is probably 255 steps anyway, and if it's 1023 then it's not really an issue.

You'll probably want to put an optocoupler between the parallel port pin and the ESC just to be safe if the ESC doesn't already have one. Oh also if mach3 is 0 to 10v then just use a voltage divider to reduce that to 0 to 5v. Two 10k resistors should do the trick, or anything really it's not critical.

If that doesn't work then I'd go for the PIC option. I've had a PIC controlling servos before from a potentiometer...it shouldn't be difficult.

Jonathan
PS Have a look on eBay for servo testers. I think you'll find them cheaper.

yo jonathan.... sounds interesting, a bit complex for a simple soul like me id need walking through the whole procedure

have you had any joy with the brake ? i found a vid on youtube where someone had used a mechanical calliper on a disk
Actuated pneumatically,,, id prefer to use a motor and screw with a spring as a buffer

if you have any old slit saws you could use one of these as the disk
i havnt desided whether ill take the simple road and use a rotary table or build a fast mover with a disk brake

though id have a play with my attempt at an engraving spindle
the motor is 4000kv so in theory it should run at 48000rpm at 12v
i managed to find an extra long engraving bit 115mm and mounted it straight through the motor and put three plain ball bearings at the nose


Attachment 3166Attachment 3165Attachment 3168Attachment 3167

i ran it flat out for a couple of min's and both the motor and the bearing housing got pretty hot pretty quick
im not overly worried about the motor getting hot its to be exspected IMO but i think the bearings on the nose are soon going to be way above 110 degrees..... i think ill test it to destruction before i look at water cooling i just cant bring myself to do it just yet, ill admire its simplicity and form for a while longer and have a think about it :)

another problem i might have... when i run it up i can hear a bearing skidding now and again, im pretty sure its one of the motor bearings (only paid £7.50 for it new) so that will need upgraded bearings pretty soon

has anybody had a go at sharpening an engraving bit ?????? this one cost me more than the motor
http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/images/misc/pencil.png

Why is it that no matter how careful i am measuring and marking out i allways end up having to oval a slack hand full of holes, each time i start a new project i think " this is it now, im on it, iv learned by my mistakes and THIS time its all gona work like a bobby dazzler"...........Bollocks!!! there must be a tare in the space time continuum cause im buggard if its me! :)
Attachment 3273
anyway, its starting to look like my drawing now, i drilled all the holes using my larger diy spindle and my Y axis up-ended as a sort of pillar drill (didnt want to be swinging around with a hand held)

im pretty sure ill have to oval a couple more holes when it comes to trueing it up but iv got a sh*t load to do before its finished and i dont want to think about it :)

(anyone thinking of useing helli mode on a RC speed controller, dont bother, it dosnt seem to hold revs any better than standard and it has a slow wind up to speed so every time you jam your drill you have to pause for it to catch up)

Nice one Chip... it helps knowing im not the only one trying to drill around corners
bad luck on the Z plates, im going to start marking mine out tomorow
ill try some Zen meditation in the morning....... OMMMMMMMMMMMM

ps: do you think id get 20mm alli plate through my printer :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

I guess its time to put my penis back in my pocket and crack on with actually getting somewhere

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LMAO, im glad im not the only one who makes good use of a chest mounted, shirt pocket :naughty:!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lee Roberts

LMAO, im glad im not the only one who makes good use of a chest mounted, shirt pocket :naughty:!

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well just make sure you NEVER put your scribe and your penis in the same pocket lee.... worse than a stainless splinter under the finger nail :)

youve done alright getting the hobnob crew to cnc your gantry sides man!!! me n chip can only hope you got the drawing wrong :) xx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

me n chip can only hope you got the drawing wrong :) xx

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Why ?

I don’t think it is, I spent ages working everything out and it looks right to me. I didn’t have the privileges of software to model everything first and check everything that way. So I had to do it all on paper and in my head, then draw each part using an image editing/design program I use for my web work.

Steve has then worked from those drawings and done well too, or did you mean something else?

Lee

steady on lee... im just yanking your chain.... hope it fits together like a glove, theres nowt worse than having to re-work holes (or in laymans terms, re-insert the drill and swing around a bit)

mucho respect for drawing yours out on paper, thats got to take some mental accrobatics, i would have struggled without the 3D drawings... its soooooo easy to re-work a drawing compared to re designing during a build but, like i said marking out by hand always manages to catch me out a mm or two hear and there no matter how careful i try to be, hopfully steve has saved you the pleasure :)

Mark if you don't have a pillar drill and vice, drill a hole the size you want a spare piece metal and clamp that over your intended spot then use that as your guide

No offense taken Mark, when I said “privileges of software” I meant literally that because your right it was a night mare trying to concentrate and do it all on scrap bits of paper and so on. It would only take one of my kids to walk in and say something and I would have to start over again hehe.

I know what you mean by “marking out by hand”, this is another reason I wanted the plates made on a cnc, I’ve got a steel ruler and an engineer’s scribe but I really didn’t want to even try it. Plus ordering Ali you’re not getting the shapes you want ether and that is another “issue” if you don’t have a proper saw or guillotine to cut with.

I need to find a CAD program I can afford that will allow me to build 3d models, parts and make assembles, what did you use for your drawings Mark?

hi lee, iv been giving solidworks a go, i quite like it but it is a tad exspensive, its a lot to take in if its your first go in cad but if you press on with it long enough you will get into it

i want to give the solidcam sofware a go to make g-code but iv not got that far yet

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 2e0poz

Mark if you don't have a pillar drill and vice, drill a hole the size you want a spare piece metal and clamp that over your intended spot then use that as your guide

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im thinking it was my marking out skills that let me down, i was drilling through 40mm in one go and my holes were bang on square

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

(anyone thinking of useing helli mode on a RC speed controller, dont bother, it dosnt seem to hold revs any better than standard and it has a slow wind up to speed so every time you jam your drill you have to pause for it to catch up)

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Slow wind up to speed - isn't that the govenor setting, if so surely it can be switched off?
I think the only way to hold revs if to have some sort of direct feedback (optical or something) of the motor RPM, and get mach3 to control the RPM as I detailed earlier.

I should really buy the ER25 collet for my massive brushless motor....it's occured to me that I can still get the 100mm one and make it longer. Drill an 8mm hole in one end, and whack a piece of 12mm with one end turned down to 8mm and knurled into the hole. The annoying thing is the motor only does 6000prm, which isn't so good as a router...but nice for machining aluminium.

Oval holes: same here, the worrying thing is I *did* use the CNC mill for the holes! I didn't make them oval though, just drilled the 8mm holes out to 9mm

your right jonathan, i meant a helli ESC in govenor mode... iv switched it off, i read somwhere that it would hold revs under diffrent loads, sadly, no joy on that one, its just a slow wind up to speed to stop all the power stripping gears betwean the motor and the main helicopter rotor... maybe it will hold revs when it is flat out?

on the brighter side, my motor has enough power to drill 10mm holes through 40mm of alli without getting particularly hot :) the ESC gets a bit warm though but nothing to drastic... fingers crossed

that motor you have would be wasted as a router !! it may even be over kill for milling alli on your 3 axis... id stick that one on a bike and start doing wheelies up and down your street and use a similar size as mine to mill alli, i really cant see my 3 axis out performing a 2000w spindle

ps: you get extra points for getting your holes wrong on a CNC :) yeeeee Haaaaaawww !!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

on the brighter side, my motor has enough power to drill 10mm holes through 40mm of alli without getting particularly hot :)

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Is that without a pilot hole? i.e. removing a 10mm diameter cylinder? If so that requires roughly 310W (at 'reccomended' rpm). What rpm did you use?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

that motor you have would be wasted as a router !! it may even be over kill for milling alli on your 3 axis... id stick that one on a bike and start doing wheelies up and down your street

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Yeah, I bought it to put on my bike, but that's not happened. I'm thinking of replacing the pathetic motor on my sieg C3 lathe with it. I still think it'd be good on my router for aluminium.[/QUOTE]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by blackburn mark

ps: you get extra points for getting your holes wrong on a CNC :) yeeeee Haaaaaawww !!!

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I think I got a dimension slightly wrong, either that or I should have used a bigger clearance hole in the first place.

A long time ago in this thread I mentioned a method of controlling the ESC from mach3 using the spindle PWM output....so I thought I'd give it a go.

Basically I connected the ESC up to my normal radio system on the model car and used multimeter to measure the duty cycle, and frequency, of the signal at neutral, full reverse and full throttle. I measured 45.6Hz and 5%-6.7%-8.5%. That's a bit annoying as it's only using a small range, but nevermind.

So then in mach3 I ticked 'PWM control', 'Use spindle motor control output' and set 'PWMBase frequ.' to 46hz, and finally set 'Minimum PWM' to 5% (i.e. full reverse).
Then on the motor outputs tab I enabled the spindle and just set the step pin to the one I wanted (in this case pin 2).

Then I went to Config-->Spindle pulleys and set the max rpm to 1000 and left the rest. (more on why I chose 1000 rpm later)

Next I connected multimeter to the parallel port pin to check it was outputting the right frequency, and that the max voltage didn't exceed 5v since more would damage the ESC. Both were fine (I'm using laptop to test, which probably explains the port being 5v) so typed in 'S100 M3' to set the spindle moving at 100rpm. That way if I use the override slider 100rpm corresponds to 10% duty cycle, or more usefully 67rpm is 6.7% ... i.e. neutral.

Now I set it to 67rpm connected one of the parallel port ground pins to the black (ground) wire on the ESC signal connector, and pin 2 to the signal wire (the other side of the 3 pin connector). Esc initialised fine, so I upped the spindle speed a little with the override thing in mach3 and the car promplty shot off the desk :exclaim: and drew briefly half a kilowatt from the battery.
Connected it back up, and yes it works fine.

There's one issue though, at the moment 67rpm is motor stopped, and 85rpm is full speed - in this test 85,000rpm!

I think in my case I'm not going to be too worried about sending the motor backwards, so clearly I can use the forwards only setting on the ESC which makes things a bit simpler. You'll find the duty cycle values for your ESC will be slightly different - use my neutral (6.7%) as a starting point and you can do the normal calibration thing on the ESC to set the endpoints.

I'm sure with a bit of fiddling I should be able to get the RPM values in mach 3 to correspond to actual motor RPM, I'll have a think on that one and let you know.

Hope that helps, ask me if something isn't clear...

PS It took me a grand total of two bits of wire stuck in the parallel port to do this - you MUST check that the parallel port doesn't output more than 5V (5.1 in my case but that's close enough). If it's more then use a couple of resistors as a voltage divider to reduce it. Either way I strongly advise optically isolating the thing.

Quote:

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Is that without a pilot hole? i.e. removing a 10mm diameter cylinder? If so that requires roughly 310W (at 'reccomended' rpm). What rpm did you use?

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haha! no chance! im using an old pc power supply at the moment thats probably only putting out 300w on 12v, besides that i cant get the levarage to drill 10mm in one go... im using one of my linear slides up-ended with a live centre attached just to guid me in straight :)

if i push the motor hard the pc power supply trips out... iv got a 12v 30a supply and two 12v 45a power supplies but iv not got around to sorting them out and as im getting by with the one im using iv percivered with it... the large motor dosnt get warm at all... the ESP worries me now and again, its a turnigy 85a so im thinking the heat is normal

Quote:

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Yeah, I bought it to put on my bike, but that's not happened. I'm thinking of replacing the pathetic motor on my sieg C3 lathe with it. I still think it'd be good on my router for aluminium

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im thinking of buying another of the larger motors i have to run my cowels 90 lathe, it knocking on a bit now and the motor bearings are a tad noisy

Some nice research there Jonathan!!!!!!!! im going to have to pick your brain when iv absorbed what you have up to now... sounds like your nearly there, it would be a winner if it can be sorted... im still on the mechanical side of things at the moment but another week or so and i should be mounting my steppers and wiring the whole thing up

iv built a low profile pc out of my scrap box that im fitting into the base, im just hoping the hard drive can handle a bit of vibration

Quote:

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What rpm did you use?

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i didnt clock the revs... just dailed until it was cutting sweet, less than 1000rpm id guess

Double post...

I remember trying 12mm drill with 5mm pilot hole in steel on my mill ... at 2150rpm as I couldn't be bothered to change it. That was fun, but right at the limit of the motor.

Anyway I've concluded that there's no way to get mach3 to read the actual motor rpm with this method, so instead you're going to have to use the following formula I just worked out to convert.

Spindle rpm = (u*x-v*Kv*L)/(u-L)

Or rearranged for x:

x=(rpm*(u-l)+v*kv*l)/u

Where:
u=max duty cycle, so in my case 8.5.
L=neutral duty cycle, 6.7 for me.
v=voltage to motor
Kv=motor rpm/volt
x=rpm mach 3 reads out
rpm=actual spindle rpm
(formula simplifies nicely once you've got the values, tell me what they are and I'll do it for you in Excel if you like)

For that formula to work you need to set the 'Max speed' in 'Spindle Pulleys' dialogue to:
v*Kv*100/L

So for instance with the 7700kv motor I was testing with earlier, on 11.1v ... that's 11.1*7700*100/8.5 = just over a million rpm. Putting that value in means that if you put the correct max rpm of your motor in the spindle speed, then the motor will spin at that speed. It's only true for the max speed though, for other speeds you need to use the other formula.

More to follow, my posts are getting long...

Quote:

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7700kv motor

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youll be able to drill holes in alli with a human hair at that speed!!!!!

its a shame its so complex... (it is to me)

im sure i read somewere that the servo tester pot might possably be removed and driven by mach but no more was said about it... any chance of you casting your skills on that one jonathan?? :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

I wondered, with my limited electronics knowledge, whether the pot could be removed (which must just provide the pulse generating part of the servo tester with a 0 - 4.8v output) and via a magic box the Mach3 0-10v could be connected instead.
I'm sure you could come up with something along these lines or better !

Does this help you with a better plan?

---

i didnt realise it was mentiond in this thread :whistling:

also irving came up with ideas but again its all a bit rocket science to me at the moment