Comments sought on new build: A CNC Router for RC Gliders and Planes

Picked up a 2200 x 950 x 10 sheet of second hand (holes in the edges) Aluminium from flebay for the princely sum of £52 the other week.

Attachment 7390

Finally got round to taking it to a local sheet metalwork shop to get guillotined into smaller peices.

Attachment 7391

I've now got 5 pieces:

2 off 1000 x 5000 (going to be bolted together and then bolted to the steel base to make the router base, holes don't matter as they'll be out of the cutting area)

2 off 1000 x 450 and 1 off 950 x 205, pieces to get the gantry sides, brackets etc. out of.

Now going to do 2 routers. One is purely for cutting 1000 x 100 balsa sheet and will be a combination of MDF and aluminium. All the items I have so far purchased will be used on this. I will then be able to cut my teeth on this to get used to using the CNC and whilst the machine is hopefully generating some money cutting balsa plane kits I'll be building my other router.

Balsa Router.

Attachment 7392

The "proper" router will have 3Nm steppers, 80V drivers, 20mm supported rails, 1610 ballscrews belt driven etc. etc. Rough picture below, the 12mm Trapezoidal screws and smaller steppers are still shown here as I've not re-drawn it yet.

Attachment 7393

If anyone feels so inclined to do so I'd appreciate any feedback, comments etc...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Picked up a 2200 x 950 x 10 sheet of second hand (holes in the edges) Aluminium from flebay for the princely sum of £52 the other week.

---

Not fair! I hope it doesn't turn out to be a difficult grade to machine.

Be careful with the amount of Z-travel on the MDF/aluminium machine. Clearly you want to have as small a Z-travel as possible to reduce the deflection from having a relatively weak Z-axis and gantry, but there still needs to be room to change tools. This could be a problem if you need to use drills, unless you buy short drills and/or have a hole in one corner of the bed which you jog the machine to for performing the toolchange.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Jonathan

Not fair! I hope it doesn't turn out to be a difficult grade to machine.

---

It was far less than I was prepared to pay so was well happy.....I'll find out if it is difficult when I send some pieces to Haydn to machine for me. I've still got to do the calcs and design the bearing housings etc. Where would the best place be to have the ball screws on the X axis, they seem to be sticking out quite a long way. Would it be better to have them under the 50x50 box that the rails are sitting on?

Quote:

---

Be careful with the amount of Z-travel on the MDF/aluminium machine. Clearly you want to have as small a Z-travel as possible to reduce the deflection from having a relatively weak Z-axis and gantry, but there still needs to be room to change tools. This could be a problem if you need to use drills, unless you buy short drills and/or have a hole in one corner of the bed which you jog the machine to for performing the toolchange.

---

As the tallest piece of balsa is likely to be 1" I'll look at lowering the gantry and reducing the travel. Want to reduce the gantry size anyway as the sum of all the lengths is just over 5m in length so just more than 1 length :)

Below is the sort of thing I'm looking to cut on the MDF router. No drilling, I'll be using mostly 2mm cutters (somethinig like this I guess 10x Carbide Drill PCB End Mill Engraving Bit CNC 1.2mm | eBay )in the E50 Proxxon I have but yes will look at height for tool changes.

Attachment 7394

Well after work I stopped by our local steel and Ali merchant (not the one we use at work) and got 3 x 1.5m lengths of 25mm x 25mm 10g Ali then went to B&Q and got an 8 x 4 sheet of 18mm MDF which they cut down into manageable lengths. Liberated a couple of 1.2m lengths of 3/4" medium red band pipe from work today (we haven't used it for 7 years) so this weekend unless I get collared to do DIY I'll be marking out and cutting out bits for the cheap crappy router I'm doing ;)

Attachment 7402

Didn't get much time on the build, only an hour or so this evening tut...anyway I've cut some of the MDF down and routed a channel out for the pipe to sit in. Found out that my tools are crap so been struggling to get accuracy. Also cut some of the Ali sq down to size. Just need to drill and tap the Ali for the skate bearings but won't get a chance to do that till Tuesday.

Attachment 7412

Just picked this up today to help drill some holes :) Need a better vice as that one is really crap (but was given it so better'n a kick inna fork...so to speak ;) )

Attachment 7442

Had a couple of hours out in the garage today and have put together the base with the rails bolted to them. Used my new digital angle gauge to make sure the rails were level and perpendicular to each other...end plates for the base to cut then I can start assembling the gantry. Now need to jump on the lathe at work and machine my lead screw ends and work out how I'm going to machine the aluminium bearing plates.

Attachment 7559Attachment 7560Attachment 7561Attachment 7562Attachment 7563Attachment 7564

Too many other things getting in the way of working on the router at the moment. Had an hour or so out in the garage tonight, was a tad cool out there..

Started one of the gantry sides but the brain wasn't working and it's not as good as I'd like so will buy some more Ali and do it again, but better!

Attachment 7658

Attachment 7659

Attachment 7660

I admire your determination and self critisism sir. Looks perfect to me Im sure there is some time wrapped up in those pictures.

Been anxiously awaiting an update.... :lemo:

Unfortunately I didn't get any time on the build over the Christmas period as I was away, only had 1 night at home and that was only really a pit stop to dump presents and pick up more on the way to the next relative.

Planning on getting another length of Ali on Friday and re-doing the skate bearing pieces. Will probably take it into work Sat AM and use the metal saw there to get them exactly the same length. Hopefully I'll not have brain fade this time so the holes will line up correctly!

The top picture in the above post of mine shows one side which in the photo looks OK.....however in my rush to get something done I assembled and drilled it back to front and the bearing holders were upside down, about as wrong as you can get!! Less haste, more speed comes to mind!! The top one should be the fixed with the bottom one able to be clamped up to the pipe to eliminate play.

Should have some updates on the weekend for you, hoping to get quite alot done as no plans for the weekend :)

Well doesn't time fly....

Not done anything for ages as life has got in the way (family bereavement, relationship split up and new one developing etc. etc...) but I'll have funds available soon to get all the components so should be able to push ahead. Think I've come to the last (famous last words) iteration of my design. Quick animation of the design is on YouTube, link below.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vIvR3KbqL4

Welcome back Neil. I like your most recent design.

glad that despite all your other challenges your still eager for some more... :D cant wait to see the build thread

Cheers guys!

Once my Mum's (now half mine) house sells (exchanging contracts in a week or so) then I need to buy a 9' x 6' shed which will take 2 weeks to be delivered so the SBR20 rails and RM1610 and 1605 ball screws and BK/BF ends and NEMA 23 motors and drivers will all be ordered at the same time so they should all arrive at about the same time.

A couple of clearer jpgs below...

Attachment 9150Attachment 9149Attachment 9148

very similar design to mine... surely you'd be better off just buying mine? :-D

If I had a big enough shed I would!! Only in rented accommodation (moving from Hereford to Gloucester) so no where to put a big machine like yours :(

Just got another bargain bit of Ali on fleabay...20 mm Aluminium Plate | eBay

Might have to think about re-designing my router now to take into account the 20mm thick Ali :biggrin:

Attachment 9224Attachment 9225

Guys, I'm now in a quandary as to which direction to go in my build. I'm going to have to have the router in a shed (10' x 8' it's grown since my previous post as I've been looking at how much "useful stuff" I've recently acquired!!) so space will be at a premium. As I'm mostly going to be cutting balsa, 3mm thick ply, the odd bit of plastic and thin Aluminium (for control horns etc.) do I go for a bigger design I've been working on or stick with the original design? The original design gives me 700mm x 300mm cutting which is ample for what I need it for (not thinking of future expansion though) with 1000mm 20mm rails and 16mm ball screws and the new design gives me 995mm x 500mm with 1300mm 20mm rails and 16mm ball screws. I've been considering also mounting the new design vertically to save space (after remembering Jazz mounting his, almost, vertically.) For the original design I've already fabricated the base but seeing as I have access to getting hold of cheap steel through work, fabricating a new frame will not be that hard or costly.

I'd appreciate your thoughts as I'm in two (possibly more) minds....

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

I've been considering also mounting the new design vertically to save space (after remembering Jazz mounting his, almost, vertically.)

---

If your space challenged then it's a no brainier to me go vertical. There's no down sides only gains, space being the biggest gain.
My machine mainly (99%) cuts aluminium and other than the space saving the other benefits are below. Wood cutting will be similar and possibly better with vacuum for chips.

Better quality of finish due to gravity helping to clear chips.
Much Longer cutter life due to less re-cutting chips, over 50% less wear.!
Greater DOC can be used for roughing again due to less heat and work re-cutting chips.
Less air required for blown air/mist cooling again due to gravity and less chips to clear. Down from 50-70psi to 10psi and obviously much less volume of air required.
Less chips flung around shop again due to gravity and cut chips being cleared more efficiently so not getting re-cut and thrown about with 80%+ falling into bins below machine.
Much easier access and loading/clamping of material due to bed being directly in-front of you, no more back aching bending over fastening material.
Better access to spindle and tool loading.

Has you can see other than the major space saving there's quite a few other decent quality benefits and I can honestly say there's been NO down sides.

Yes there's things I've learnt from being vertical about design that I'd build into a purpose built vertical machine. These would mainly deal with lessening chip collection on various surfaces.
The Z axis would be one area I'd look at and build more shielding around. Ball-screw bearing blocks would be another and I'd build shielding to stop chip collection.
Both of these are only minor things and don't affect the machine in anyway also my machine has NO protection of any kind for belts,ball-screws so they would be things I'd do anyway if was building again and it was horizontal.

The other thing I'd do with MY particular machine is raise the whole thing up higher than it is now.?
At the minute it's just in the same spot it was when first tipped up, sat on same axle stands. This means the bottom area of the bed lower than I'd like also the gantry when parked at top is not quite above head height and I bump my head on it when removing material. Also it's just makes fitting tools into spindle a bit more awkward than could be.
Both of these things are Still much better than when horizontal but if machine was 12" higher they would be perfect.

Now before folks comment on material holding etc other than requiring holding on first placement until clamped then it's absolutely no different to when horizontal.
This initial holding is easy over come with a simple temporary holding shelf I slide into position to place against material edge, which I then slide out the way while cutting. The slight incline of bed then holds it hands free against bed while I clamp or screw it down.
Just like when horizontal both cut parts and waste material needs to be clamped for safety's sake. To be honest it's actually safer regards waste because it mostly falls away from cutter and off the bed so with thought about placement of material cutting entry IE: always starting/exiting at top then there's far less chance of material being pulled back into cutter. That said I also have and do fasten waste material has it's just best practice.

Hope this helps.!

Jazz, in your opinion would the router be better at a slight angle (15° in this case) or at 90°?

I can see the slight angle as better for work placement as the work will "fall" against the bed and the chips will still fall away into the collection tray at the bottom. I've added some sheet steel sides (that might need more support to stop resonance) so those will stop the chips from being flung all over the place. Just need to work out some shielding for the ball screw lower bearing mounts, and the stepper mounting arrangements and a few other details and I should be good to go I hope?

Attachment 9226

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Jazz, in your opinion would the router be better at a slight angle (15° in this case) or at 90°?

---

Yes defiantly have inclined just helps hold material better while fastening other than that there's no advantage.

Model looks nearly there. Don't think you'll need the tray that wide and If your not using coolant then wouldn't make it part the machine just use removable plastic bins which you then use to take chips to out in. My bins stick out from front of bed about 6-8" when cutting and I just slide them back a bit while loading material.

One thing you want to build into machine is a bump stop at the bottom where you park the machine when not using it. This takes the load off the ballnuts and belts.
My machine doesn't drop when stood without power to motors but only takes the slightest of push to make it drop. Only really required when leaving over night or several hours stood still and in normal use IE: between jobs etc I just park gantry at the top in the home position and it's fine.
I home the machine to top left corner when facing the machine. I have a park button on my screen and it goes to the bottom and rests against the end stops.
I don't use limits only home switches has I never normally get any where near them in normal use and rarely cock up bad enough to get near them these days so it's not a problem with tripping switches. If you where using limits then you'd have to build limit override into the parking routine which is easy enough.

Cheers Jazz, the tray will be a removable metal one (I’ll get the local tin bashers to knock one up from 2mm steel and run a weld up each corner to seal it and it’ll be loose in between the frame so I can lift/slide it out. I’ve still got to detail things like all the stepper mounts, end stops, limit switches etc. but didn’t want to go into too much detail before getting the basics done! I’ve quickly added a couple of stops at the bottom of the rails and added/changed the stepper mounting brackets for the X and Y axis.


Attachment 9228Attachment 9229


I’ve half a mind to make the leaning frame in one piece and the router bed in one piece and bolt them together. This way I’ll be able to separate them in the event of a move (very likely in the not too distant future) so I won’t need a Hiab to lift it over the back wall to get it out of the garden!!


I now have a few questions to ask before I get going on ordering bits and pieces for the build so again would appreciate the benefit of everyone’s combined knowledge!

I’m going with SBR20 rails for all 3 axis with SBR20UU carriages. X is 1300mm long and Y is 750mm long, Z is 400mm.


Ball screws. I was thinking of 1605 (from Chai) driving them with belts at 2:1 ratio on the X & Y axis and 1204 for the Z being direct drive from the 3Nm stepper. Is the 1204 ball screw OK for the Z or is it better using the 1605? I’d be happier using the 1204 to use the smaller ball nut and therefore getting an extra little bit of length on the X axis.


For the Stepper motors I was thinking of 4 of the 60BYG301B 3.1Nm motors from CNC4YOU? Any others to consider, the SY60STH86-3008B from Zapp? Any difference (I can’t see any in the specs particularly) in the two apart from price?


I’m thinking of going with either the CW-885 Drivers from CNC4YOU or the AM882 Leadshine from Zapp. I’m leaning towards the AM882 but what are your thoughts? I take it that I can drive the 2 X axis steppers from the same driver so will only need 3 drivers? Is the performance of these drivers much better than the 50V drivers? I think I’d rather spend a bit more and have better “future proofing” even though for cutting balsa and thin ply the 50V drivers will be fine I’m sure I’ll be cutting Ali and all sorts after a while!


Which BOB would you recommend?


Power supply. Is it best to buy one readymade, i.e. the PS806-5 from Zapp, or have a go at making my own? Is there a significant saving to be made?


I was going to do this all on a shoe string budget (see first post on this thread!!) but now don’t have to so would rather buy decent equipment (without going completely over the top!)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Ball screws. I was thinking of 1605 (from Chai) driving them with belts at 2:1 ratio on the X & Y axis and 1204 for the Z being direct drive from the 3Nm stepper. Is the 1204 ball screw OK for the Z or is it better using the 1605? I’d be happier using the 1204 to use the smaller ball nut and therefore getting an extra little bit of length on the X axis.

---

No wouldn't do that go with 10mm pitch and if around 1500mm then I'd go with 20mm screw, chai now sells these.
Yes 1204 will work ok for Z axis, my machine uses that size. That said I always tend go with 1605 on machines I build has they are more readily available and bit more meat for pulleys etc, they also allow slightly higher tuning.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

For the Stepper motors I was thinking of 4 of the 60BYG301B 3.1Nm motors from CNC4YOU? Any others to consider, the SY60STH86-3008B from Zapp? Any difference (I can’t see any in the specs particularly) in the two apart from price?

---

Either there's very little difference, I've used both.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

I’m thinking of going with either the CW-885 Drivers from CNC4YOU or the AM882 Leadshine from Zapp. I’m leaning towards the AM882 but what are your thoughts?

---

Not used the CW-885 but they will have to be very very good top beat the Am882 so for me it would be the tried and known AM882.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

I take it that I can drive the 2 X axis steppers from the same driver so will only need 3 drivers? Is the performance of these drivers much better than the 50V drivers? I think I’d rather spend a bit more and have better “future proofing” even though for cutting balsa and thin ply the 50V drivers will be fine I’m sure I’ll be cutting Ali and all sorts after a while!

---

NO Bad idea Each motor needs it's own drive. You could in theory run 2 drives from one signal output but don't run 2 motors from 1 drive. I wouldn't recommend using one output has it leads to timing issues and inaccuracy's etc and not worth the hassle.

Couple of reasons for not running 2 motors from 1 drive. The drive ratings are split between both motors so 80V 8A would only allow 80V and 4A for each motor. Most 3-4nm motors are around 4-5A so not enough and plus it's working the drive very hard shortening it's life quite a bit.
BUT bigger reason is the Resonance handling of the drive can not work properly and doesn't know which motor to apply resonance compensation too and gets very confused with result being the other motor gets pushed into resonance.
Believe me you don't want resonance issues they are a night mare, resonance can/does cripple the performance of a machine.
By the way the AM882 are fantastic at handling resonance, you can hear and certainly see the smoothness compared to Analogue and some of the cheaper digital drives.

Another thing to consider when using slaved motors on a Axis is that you will want some way to square the gantry and for this you need 2 Inputs for home switches because each screw needs to be turned individually while homing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Which BOB would you recommend?

---

No contest PMDX 126 hands down the best. . . Cheap NO.!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Power supply. Is it best to buy one readymade, i.e. the PS806-5 from Zapp, or have a go at making my own? Is there a significant saving to be made?

---

Again no contest build your own this way you can have the exact voltage and Amps required plus it works out cheaper because you'll need 2 of the PS806-5. Will build your own for less than one PS806.

I might go a single stepper on the X axis and use belt drive for both ball screws then.

Got a quote from Chai today for the SBR20 rails/carriages and the 1610 machined ball screws, ball nuts, BK & BF bearings etc. and its very reasonable (just a bit over half the price I worked out getting it from the UK would be) so will get those on order soon. Am moving house this week so will wait till the end of the month till I have done that and unpacked a bit!

Should give me time to go through the design and make sure all dims etc are correct and print cutting lists off for the steel.

Another question. I was planning on using 3" x 2" x 1/4" Aluminium box for mounting the rails on (X & Y axis) but noticed that others have used steel in their builds. I was always under the impression that steel was not straight enough? I'd prefer to use steel as it's cheaper and I can weld the frame up and I need 3 lengths of it for the existing frame so wouldn't have as much waste.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by njhussey

Another question. I was planning on using 3" x 2" x 1/4" Aluminium box for mounting the rails on (X & Y axis) but noticed that others have used steel in their builds. I was always under the impression that steel was not straight enough? I'd prefer to use steel as it's cheaper and I can weld the frame up and I need 3 lengths of it for the existing frame so wouldn't have as much waste.

---

Man wish I'd got £ for every time get asked this.. .Lol

What makes you think Ali box is any straighter or flatter than steel.?. .. It's not.!! Also contrary to popular belief often neither is Alu profile.! . . Steel is far stronger and cheaper and with careful selection can be very straight and flat. It's also very easy to work with if it's not perfectly flat.

There's very few off the shelf materials that you can use without some form of correction for inaccuracies and that includes Alu profile. People think profile is straight and flat but in reality it's often not, yes it can be better than extruded profiles like Alu box but it will still need some form of correction to the surface at some point. It's also 5x the price.

The main area of concern is for the rail surfaces being straight and flat. Extruded Alu like Box is rarely straight or flat enough to use without work so will need some form of correction, either filling or sanding high spots.
This also the same for steel but the difference being steel is quite easy to scrape,file,grind,sand than Ali has being harder it doesn't clog tools etc.
In my experience steel box has just the same inaccuracies that Alu box does but steel is much easier to correct. Often all it needs is a quick run over with grinder knocking off any high spots, Low spots can be filled. Then just shim the rails to get perfect.

If your using the Chinese round type rail then I can tell you with 99% certainty the base will not be flat or straight and will have more error than the steel your fastening it to.!!. . And thats without correcting the steel.!!

Have no fear of steel, it's cheaper,stronger and very easy to work with and manipulate to your needs. Other than being lighter Alu has just the same issues steel does and unless you have special welding equipment is actually harder to work with.
If you bolt together while bit easier to drill alu suffers from crush and hole deformation much more than steel does. Unless it's thick material doesn't hold tapped threads very well like steel does. Steel will easily hold fine threads in 3mm thickness for fastening rails etc and allow decent torque on bolts, try that in Alu.!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Man wish I'd got £ for every time get asked this.. .Lol

---

That's £ I owe you then :biggrin:

Quote:

---

What makes you think Ali box is any straighter or flatter than steel.?. .. It's not.!!

---

Just presumed that as lots have it for the Y axis that it was straighter, never used it really so presumed others knew best!!

Quote:

---

In my experience steel box has just the same inaccuracies that Alu box does but steel is much easier to correct. Often all it needs is a quick run over with grinder knocking off any high spots, Low spots can be filled. Then just shim the rails to get perfect.

---

Can do all that in our works, Was thinking of welding some 50x5 flat to the 50x50 box and get a local engineers to skim the surface so it's flat.

Quote:

---

If your using the Chinese round type rail then I can tell you with 99% certainty the base will not be flat or straight and will have more error than the steel your fastening it to.!!. . And thats without correcting the steel.!!

---

Nice, I look forward to that!

Quote:

---

Have no fear of steel, it's cheaper,stronger and very easy to work with and manipulate to your needs. Other than being lighter Alu has just the same issues steel does and unless you have special welding equipment is actually harder to work with.
If you bolt together while bit easier to drill alu suffers from crush and hole deformation much more than steel does. Unless it's thick material doesn't hold tapped threads very well like steel does. Steel will easily hold fine threads in 3mm thickness for fastening rails etc and allow decent torque on bolts, try that in Alu.!

---

I have no fear of steel, it's my preferred material of construction as that's what we use at work to build the oil systems I quote, see the pic of a system we did for Ratcliffe Power Station ID fan blowers.
Attachment 9236

Neil,

Nice power station reminds me of the days when I worked as pipe-fitter in Industrial tool trade in the Detroit area. I use AM882's and unless you are planning on going to the feed back loop stepper motor/drive combo I strongly suggest them. They run well and stay cool even after a good long day of cutting (14 hrs). Unless you have access to industrial power supplies I would suggest building one with a toroidal transformer, I get a really nice smooth power off my set up and once the transformer got charged it has been running very nice (looking at adding a fan to cool everything down just a bit, for safety measure).

Nice design and should do everything you are asking of it and more. Hope the move goes well. -Michael

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by m.marino

I use AM882's and unless you are planning on going to the feed back loop stepper motor/drive combo I strongly suggest them. They run well and stay cool even after a good long day of cutting (14 hrs).

---

I'm not planning on using the feed back loop combo, not sure I'll run the machine that hard as it's for hobby use. For what I want it for the AM882's will be more than good enough.

Quote:

---

Unless you have access to industrial power supplies I would suggest building one with a toroidal transformer, I get a really nice smooth power off my set up and once the transformer got charged it has been running very nice (looking at adding a fan to cool everything down just a bit, for safety measure).

---

I'll probably ask for help when doing the power supply. I think I've subscribed to a thread where one is made but failing that I'll ask for help.

Quote:

---

Nice design and should do everything you are asking of it and more. Hope the move goes well. -Michael

---

Cheers Michael, I'm hoping that I don't get a rush of blood to the head and re-design it again :rolleyes: I'm quite happy with the design now, all I think I'll be doing (unless anyone points out any major flaws) is doing the minor details, checking everything fits as it should and then detailing the pieces with the bolt holes, machining etc.

Just been checking the 10mm aluminium sheet I got from eBay a while back (2200mm x 950mm) as I've moved it to temporary storage and after cleaning some dust off I discovered it's 6082 grade so happy with that!! Just waiting for my other bargain eBay bit of 20mm thick Ali to be sent!!

Got a shed coming soon (well they call it a log cabin, 28mm thick wood) for my workshop. Managed to start doing the base for it yesterday afternoon, until the rain started! Still got a couple of weeks till the sheds here so plenty of time to finish it. Will need the time if all the rain we're forecast materialises!

Attachment 9338

Still got the noggins to put in and the OSB to put on top. Going to anchor it in the ground with 4"x4" fence post bits 400mm long postcreted in the ground, going to put more posts under the bit where the CNC machine is going for support.

Shed base has been done for a week or so and this morning at 6.30am the shed was delivered. Trouble is that as of Friday I'm away on holiday for a week so all I'll be doing is unpacking it from the grass verge tonight and moving it into the garden and covering it with a tarpaulin until I can start assembling it after I get back from hols. Then the router build will begin as I'll have somewhere to work and put the router!

Attachment 9591

Attachment 9592

You need a shed building party.!! . . .shame your so far away has I'd come help throw it up in exchange for burger and couple of :beer: . . . Actually got relatives in Hereford not seen for a long time so maybe could still happen . .Lol

Or Maybe next time when it's router building party time. . :yahoo:

If you need a hand putting the shed up give me a shout, I'm only just the other side of town after all (I take it you've moved to Gloucester now?). I can lean on a wall to keep it upright with the best of them.

All I ask if you pick a sunny day for the build, last time I helped a friend with some building work it tipped it down on us all day to the point where the site ended up flooded.

P.S. You're shed looks suspiciously like a very short and boxy car :tennis:

Hmmmm shed building party......:yahoo:

This is what it should look like once assembled.....depends on how many beers I've had when putting it together :very_drunk:

Attachment 9593

Yes Graham I've been living in Gloucester now (officially!) for a month. Can't wait to put the shed up (yes might take you up on the offer of a hand :thumsup: ) so I can get my tools (and all my RC models) out of storage and start making a mess...

How about a shed/workshop build thread? I always enjoy those..... :wink:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WandrinAndy

How about a shed/workshop build thread? I always enjoy those..... :wink:

---

Got back from holiday early hours of Sunday so nothing doing on the shed build. Busy all week in the evenings so the schedule for building it is this weekend....weather permitting!! Will put up some pics of the build :)

Pics of this afternoons work. Started at 3.15 and finished at 7..,

Before Starting.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/hyma4y9e.jpg

After taking the tarpaulin off.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/de4ejyna.jpg

After 3/4 hour.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/yjypupud.jpg

Window in.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/3yga7ese.jpg

Almost done the sides.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/aruzavuz.jpg

Purlins in ready to roof tomorrow.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/hazuzamu.jpg

Few more pics.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/u5eve3ej.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/7yhy9uny.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/08/arerubus.jpg

Roofing to be done tomorrow and also the wood preserver...

Looking good, but are the sticky out-y corners permanent? What do you plan to line the inside of walls/door/roof with?

irving, the sticky out-y corners will be permanent because they form a series of halving joints, if you cut them off the thing would fall to pieces.

I don't know what you plan to line the shed with but I found celotex (50mm thick) from the local builders merchant to be good, it's a thermal insulation but it can also attenuate noise. Because it's quite soft you would need thin plywood over the top, thickness appropriate to what you want to hang off it. Of course this reduces the inside of the shed by over 100mm each way.