I'm surprised you get that much flex.. do you know how much, and is it the tool flexing or the mill? what feed rate etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
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I'm surprised you get that much flex.. do you know how much, and is it the tool flexing or the mill? what feed rate etc?Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Everything bends, the trick is to minimalise it :DQuote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
I don't usually post pics of where it goes not so good, but what the heck...
1: Backlash on a change of direction, looks like a ditch, actually 4 or 5 thou deep
2: Chatter, an echo from the roughing out, should have changed speed.
3: Tool flexing, you can see where the tool tip bent inwards and wasn't completely removed by the finishing pass. You know it's the tool becae it gets deeper towards the tip.
Thanks for sharing Robin, helps know what I'm looking for... :) btw, #3 are you sure the tool flexed rather than had excessive runout or the work was offline? I'm not sure I understand how the tool tip can bend into the work, unless it was catching because of excessive feed rateQuote:
Originally Posted by Robin Hewitt
Hard to tell, the way the tool tip digs in much further than the rest makes me suspect tool bending. Could be wrong. I shall find out when my new CNC controller is up and running with absolute positioning from the digital scales.
I was working on the Mk2 version over the weekend, finally burst in to life around 7pm Sunday evening :D
I have a fancy algorythm for CNC milling I want to try. Problem is it needs lots of memory and processor speed, so it has to be a USB device running under XP. I'm taking a crash course in Visual Studio 2008 from a geek :D
It's not too late for you to cast it, where do I send the pattern? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Kip
That pic was a freaky bench mounted BB firing test gun. I plugged it in to the shop air line, looked down the shop, saw nothing breakable and pumped a dozen out at around 600 ft/s to test it. One went straight through the wall clock glass front, through the case, luckily missed the mechanism and came out the back :rolleyes:
lmao !!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by robin hewitt
Some more bits arrived today :)
A nice project box - actually an IP66 wall mount wiring enclosure but it will house the PSU and driver cards. Being IP66 it is completely sealed but I will put a filtered fan on the side and replace the top wiring gland with a fine mesh (air blowing out the top will keep dust/crap out). It has a nice glas front so I will make up an internal panel with lots of flashy LEDs on it :)
The second is a set of 3 x 4-pole lockdown connectors for the steppers, all the way from Hong Kong for under £6 the set, eBay shop is AllPartsPipe. They do 5, 7 and 9 pole too... all rated for 20A DC... and lots of other goodies (Power MOSFETs for instance)
its all GOGOGO !!!
I may get to finish some of the things im working this side of xmas !
I recently puchased a conquest mill from Chester tools UK with the sole purpose of converting to cnc, I purchased plans for cnc conversion from www.stirlingsteele.com, he has used the Seig x2 for cnc conversion which is basically the conquest in different clothing. I have completed nearly all the X, Y, Z components, now moving on to the controller board etc.
Hi you all
Can'nt afford anything like the Seig I'm affraid it has to be good old DIY. I like the plans available on www.crankorgan.com but not sold to UK. One thing I,ve noticed that if you buy butrussed lead screws they are coarser than studding and you are likely to need bigger stepper motors. The Seig uses Nema23 or 34 wonder what current they take?
Have been investigating software with aim of modifying my motor controller www.calenterprises.co.uk/speed.html for opto coupler. Unfortunately only Mach and maybe Zues are the olny ones to have a PWM output.
If I was making a mill I would use 3 inch angle iron bolted together to stant with then tack welded when everthing had been checked/adjusted. Square tube could be used for slides etc.
Happy Xmas Keith
sorry I know but BUMP!
I had to post, just wanted to help some of you were looking for strong lightweight cutting head motors.
Large outrunner motors designed to replace IC. engines in large scale RC aircraft have excellent Power to Weight ratio for examples head to the link provided.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...t=&LiPoConfig=
This is my first post hope to be the first of many is there anyone in northants with one built already that would be able to share some machine time.
Thanks to all, Gavin.
Hi Gavin
Yes these motors must have some chuff, I use front loading washing machine motors for machine tools. You can get constant speed from 500---12000RPM. www.calenterprises.co.uk/speed.html I am planning a mill come surface grinder using 60mm pipe for the column, a heavy cast iron block for the table and other bits made from machined cast iron held together with metric screws. Will post some pics when I can be bothered. I only need to flatten stuff out and cut the occasional slot.
Best regards Keith
Hi KeithQuote:
Originally Posted by keith77777
Do you have experience with those motors??? Any good? I plan to replace my CNC Mill induction motor with washing machine one + controller. Spindle speed variation it is something my CNC machine does need :)
Regards
Hi GavinQuote:
Originally Posted by wiatroda
The motors are really good, not enclosed but you can soon make a tinplate caseing. One thing you and I will have to watch when using it for a mill will be the flat belt which normally runs vertically on the washer. I sold a controller to a guy who was fed up of snapping belts on a pillar drill. He put a V belt pulley on the motor shaft. The 12000 RPM is a bit overkill so more pulleys may be necessary but some mills have gearing and use 3000 RPM induction motors. I used the original washing machine pulleys on my lathe.
I am looking forward to strapping this ironwork together and getting a mill/grinder going.
Cheers Keith
THUMPING NOT PUMPING IRON !!
Here is a picy of the base of my mill/grinder its a cast iron night storage heater block. Unfortunately its covered with what I find is called cementite. Aptly named, its as hard as diamond and sticks like s--t to a blanket. The only way of getting it off is with a bricky's hammer. If not removed is distroys hacksaw blades and lathe tools. This bit will be used intact but I am using this material for column clamps etc, so there is a fair bit of machining.
THE SMART WAY OF THUMPING IRON
Using one of these babies is a lot easier than a hammer especially in confined places. £16 from Aldi it pays to keep an eye on this store. Mind it uses lots of compressed air. The mill grinder I am building is based on
www.neme-s.org/Model_Engineer_Files/swing_grinder.pdf
Its supposed to be able to grind its own table.
Having gotten the base plate cleaned I must turn my attention to taking the flange which is to be welded to the base of the column (6cm pipe) the indispension unit has to be taken to bits. This wheel flange will then bolt the column to the base plate and can be shimmed etc for squareness. Oh I almost forgot the column has to be turned to be uniform in a better lathe than mine before welding. There is a lot to do.
It's a concrete lampshade !!
My latest acquirsition from the Cumbria steam rally at the week end. Has a big hole though, will have to give some thought about making an arbor.
Cheers Keith
There may only be one diamond in the house that will true this thing up, but I suggest you ask her first :naughty:Quote:
Originally Posted by keith77777
Grindstone cowboy
Hi Robin in the group
I really must broach the subject and duck to avoid flying pans.:lol: I think out of balance would be my gratest worry. Same old Steam rally as 5 years ago always the bloke drilling files. A shortcut to what I am trying to make would be the pillar drill you could make a swinging head by loosening off the head and having it rotate on a collar. Most surface grinders seem to have a trough with the gindstone doing the bis, guess this must be for safety. With having a variable speed motor at least I can keep the revs down for starters.
Cheers Keith
I know nothing about these things, but my gut tells me that if you put this in a pillar drill the taper would let go before you could say, "Bugger".
Plenty of time afterwards though :naughty:
I only meant using the pillar stand arrangement, I have a high speed saw spindle with a hole thro one end, a tailour made arbour would be the way. . Yer it is difficult, if you were armour plated or had 1/2 of perspex between you and the work it would be hard to get anything done. I had an abrasive cut-off saw once it scared me so much I gave it away. Angle grinders are very useful but can be as dangerous. I regularly use one for cutting sheet metal, does not crimp the metal like snips. A lot of this stuff is a long way of I have not made the stand yet !!
I am enjoying machining this cast iron in the lathe and making large cuts with old faithful I would send you some if you don;nt mind the postage. :lol:
Cheers Keith
Just had the column for my mill turned on a proper lathe mine only traverses the length of the compound slide so no way I could do something this length. The guy did a really good job and also trued the ends up. Next stage is to weld on a wheel flange from those old trailer parts. This will be bolted to the cast iron slab from the night storage heater(with appropiate shims fitted). You know how it is lazyness may set in at any stage. Hows your mill coming on????
Cheers Keith Attachment 6211
Hello All
I have abandoned the idea of making a vertical mill in favour of a Gingery imitation. I looked at various designs including the Westbury and decided driving a moving vertical spindle was too much of a problem.
The Gingery mill is based on the old Lincoln design using flat belts much easier to accomodate spindle movement.
The bits use angle iron bolted together (tack weld when adjusted). I cheated by buying an X-Y table.
Spindle is from a washing machine drum and I will be useing my motor controller to avoid multiple pulleys. :pride:Attachment 10490Attachment 10491Attachment 10492
Sorry for my last post having pics all over the place I am an engineer not a computer operator. Any way my mill is progressing. I have to ensure the vertical slide stays at right angles to the bed. Attachment 10519
For this I have made a triangle spar here it is colling down in the vice do not want to get burned fingers !!!:adoration:
Attachment 10520
Sorry Lee , Robin and Irvin
You started this thread and the mill that I am making is not CNC at least at the moment. I have no access to machining capabilty except an old lathe which drastically needs new bearings. As I have allready said I considered the Westberry vertical mill design but here were several reports of chattering on the sliding column. Here is a better pic of my design inspired by the Stepperhead, Gingery, Multimachine designes.
Attachment 10543
Attachment 10544
Many thanks fer birthday wishes cheers Keith
Ha! Words of wisdom amen23! I built an aluminum extrusion machine and it works really well on plywood and acrylic and could certainly do some engraving, but I've started down the path to milling 6061 aluminum and I can do it, but not well. So, I thought, heck I'll just do some stiffening here and there and... flush... $$$... swirl... Anyway, I'm contemplating how to upgrade or keep this machine for wood and build another much smaller X/Y table type out of steel for milling. I can't really decide the way to go and my budget is very limited. Or maybe I sacrifice cutting area and use the parts from the existing machine to make the mill. Hmmmmfffff! Anyway, I'd love some input from y'all who have been down this path. I love CNC and making stuff, but I'm growing a bit weary of making stuff for my CNC. :ambivalence:
If any of you would care to see my video saga on youtube, please take a peek and offer all the jabs and sneers you can muster. I can take it!
https://youtu.be/2QTZa2Ge9A0
Cheers!
Yeah, early on I bought some end mills and chucked them up in my drill press and... no.
Hi Wiremonkey
Sorry for not repying for so long, I have loaded up win7 and had lost my log in.
Its some time since I built the Gingery mill clone. Its all steel and uses the slide is off the lathe(capston) as vertical slide. I actually got the xy automated by using wiper motors and an optical system on the motor shaft. I was able to do this using CNC pro which has a stop feature. The prog is stopped until the step is successful.Most of the running gear is off washing machine parts. I boxed a drum bearing for the head and use all the pulleys and motor. I actually sell the motor controller for these universal brushed motors. These motors are ideal being around 1HP and variable speed from 200 to 12000 RPM. At present I am working on making the PCB,s for my speed controllers surface mount, I have a cheap cnc router table which is used with Inkscape and Zeus to mill out the pcb. I think the old cnc progs had many advantages eg with zeus you can stop at any point and trim the position of the tool, half way to conversational cnc.
Not idle Ha Ha Keith
I just discovered Taig today. I've got my eyes on the 2018CR-ER, which is CNC read, just attach steppers, your controller and you're off, with a full blown mill ready to tackle mild steel even. I'm saving my coppers. I am not affiliated with Taig, but like their style!
http://www.taigtools.com/mmill.html
Milling a pcb is on my bucket list! I admire your moxy.
Then think carefully about that Taig that you linked to. My immediate concerns (2 minutes glance at spec, no-more) table too small; need the 5019 ball-screws to address backlash for PCB milling; spindle-speed too low for micro-mills/drills.Quote:
Originally Posted by wiremonkey
Attachment 24312Attachment 24313Attachment 24314 Hi hope this has uploaded my pics.
I have made lots of bits for the big mill jncluding a 4 jaw chuck fitting. faceplate , fly cutter. The overarm is not yet perfected. I wanted to do in line boring. The spindle has a taper which fits into the chuck and faceplate with a central bolt and tapped hole down the middle. These bits are made from old trailer hubs whose central hole has been filled with molten aly and then machined to a taper. I made a tool post for lathe tool out of cast iron block.
Not done much on the mill recently since I got the router table, not very big but OK for pcb,s. These tables are good value for money but the table needs to be milled flat with its owm cuttrer. An extra set of collets was bought and the toolstation hinge cutter did the trick. The material on the table top is laminate flooring left over from my bathroom.
Buy for now Keith
Just replying to my own thread its lonely out here.
Attachment 25053
The Chinese router table has a bed which is not in line with the gantry therefore its necessary to skim it with a large mill (I lined it with left over bathroom flooring and skimmed it with a hinge cutter available from toolstation). I hope the image has gone thro I recently started to use Ubuntu. The cast iron block in the middle contains another ER11 collet holder . The reason for this I wanted to drill thro the centre of 6mm rod with a 1 mm drill.This task could not be done on my big lathe. You put the part in the rotating part and the drill is static. then its easy to increment it down onto the drill (I use Zeus ). Also the block has a notch for 6mm lathe tool so I can go sideways and turn small items. A cheap precision lathe !!
Hi Mr Monkey
Sorry I did not reply, As u can see from my other posts I milled the cheap Chinese table I bought with a 1 inch hinge cutter after I had covered it with wood. Making 4 PCBs at a time cutter depth must be the same at extremities.
Yoy will see from my other posts I have made a Gingery horizontal mill impersonation. Its a lot of heavy ironwork bolted together. There was a guy on here asking about distortion in a welded frame. Well I dont weld everything first off. Bolts can be sufficient but if something starts to move clagg a weld on it. Good reason for using steel bits.
Wishing u success with ur build Keith
Attachment 25113Attachment 25114 Just to show how u can make an adapter block for cheap Chines router table to drill and machine small parts. The spare collet holders are dirt cheap together with sets of er11 collets to 7mm. I drilled a 6mm brass rod and made a nozzle for hot air soldering iron. the cast iron block was made on my big lathe.
Best regards Keith
Attachment 26806Just another addition to my Gingery imitation mill. Its a collet chuck. I have made face-plate,flying spot cutter and 4 chuck add-ons. However this was a challenge, more exacting reproducability of the spindle taper joint is difficult. Hopefully it will be forth time lucky. Merry xmas everyone and best regards.