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ive already done a test run with the paint, and its come out goodQuote:
Originally Posted by rnr107
although im not going to show the test piece as that would just spoil the suspense! :)
i am at the mercy of the weather with this build so i have to prime the bare metal to protect it, even though once all the paint is removed il have to rub back the primer and do the whole thing in one go
stay tuned for more fun and frolics!
Looks good so far. Did you consider getting it powder coated? I recently got a CNC router frame (60x60 box section, about 100kg) I did powder coated by a local company and it was only £30, which was their minimum order. It came out very nicely so I thought that was quite good considering power coating should be more durable than paint.
ive contemplated powder coating but nowhere locally will entertain such a small job, just big industrial operations! i have toyed with the idea of establishing my own setup as i seem to be constantly spraying motorcycle frames & components but i just don't have the space... yet!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
I just called the 5 nearest companies to me and that one was much cheaper than the rest. Did some powder coating at school once as they had a tank for it ... seems easy enough if you've got the right kit.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnydeen
http://www.darrenpalm.co.uk/contact.htmQuote:
Originally Posted by chip
hi,johnny lm a million miles away from converting to a cnc be honest when l read blogs concerning the terms they use are goobley gook to me but lm intrested is there a book on how to convert small m/cs to cnc for the total novice
i understand where your coming from, i am also a cnc novice but ive learned alot from just googling. i still get stumped regularly at the sheer technicality of some folks on this forum (especially when it come to electronics). all the information i have has come from hours of reading through forums and using google to decipher the gobbledygookQuote:
Originally Posted by onecut
remember... take everything with a pinch of salt, there are many ways to skin a cat and you just need to find the way that suits you!
made a bit of progress today, finished striping the cabinet, sanded it back and then gave it a proper coat of red oxide primer. then i used the high build primer.
at that point i had a thought, is it really such a good idea to do it mainly white? it'd just end up grubby and quite horrible in no time!
Attachment 6233
the original idea was to do the top blue and the bottom in white but since the blue came out so well (pictures don't do it justice) i decided to go for the blue and use the white for the interior of the cupboard and the door.
first coat done, one more then lacquer should do it
Attachment 6234
Hi, johnny your works looking good nice finish lm going to hand paint mine havn,t sprayed before dont want to create any unwelcome problems,lm after some advice single phase motor 1/3hp for sale with stainless steel water pump attached £20 thinking buy it put coolant system in when lv done every thing else lv seen pictures of some boxfords, pump is hidden away in right side cupboard mine has open cabinet like yours this l think is the sump tank in middle where do you put water pump on these ones-cheers
you are correct, the center piece of the cabinet is a coolant tank, i will be making a cover for it with some aluminium tread plate and then mounting a pump directly onto the coverQuote:
Originally Posted by onecut
this is a picture of a csb (short bed version of the model c) and you can just about see the coolant pump setup on the integral tank
Attachment 6252
i would have to say go for it, at that money its good going for you
me on the other hand, well if i find a decent pump for cheap ill get it but if i get to the point i need one i already have a water pump from a cbr900rr fireblade that might just do the trick
Hi, johnny was on phone to that lad selling two motors his ad in paper was cut short mid sentence said something like 2 motors single phase one has stainless steel pump attached other has gearbox-finished there so who knows l thought stainless steel pump for industrail use £20 could take chance at that price clean it up and it might do for my forthcoming boxford so l phoned him asked have you tested motor he said no hasnt got any wires on its brand new still in its box wrapped up so should be ok so he dropped it off for me showed me it l dont know anything about pumps but its spanking new says on side Lwa 75db l know thats the pressure only surprising thing appart from price is in /out holes for pipes about1-3/8 dia seems big to me but what do l know about pumps-nothing-brian
Hi guys, its me at last my little boxford has arrived from bonny scotland lad took it to bits years ago with view to painting and cleaning bits but never got further than disasembly so she,s here in a load bits havn.t got a scooby how to put back together but worry about that later be starting stripping and painting at weekend first things first visually its in decent nick needs rewired and motor is stiff to turn by hand so lm happy with a dash of apretension no doubt i,ll be bombarding you,s with pleas for help -take care-onecut
help,my boxfords arrived in bits lm trying to identifyA,B,C got a feeling lv paid over the odds asked time and time again what it was no response had already paid for it then,silly lad anyway lv looked for stamp right hand side cant find one when l find what it is can decide where the motor goes.dont laugh hav,nt seen one before cant see how it goes in cupboard surely not behind head how does it mount anyway has anyone any tips so l can find out what the little beaut is dont know if it helps but its got a screw dial indicator think that means its not a C is that right?
Hi OneCut,
If there is a lead screw it means it is not a "T", it could be an A, B or C.
Is there a gear box attached to the lead screw ? If so it's an "A" if not it could be a B or a C
Post a few pictures of all the bits you have, I'll tell you what it is from that.
RNR
johnny,just looking at your CSB lathe mine arrived mond its same as yours when you say getting new lock doesn,t even fit hole- looking at yours/mine the locks are identical mine doesnt fit hole either same too long bolts if you read up on these lathes say especially model C say they often used off shelve parts off other lathes that they had too many of as it was the cheaper lathe of the family so l guess its the original lock just put on as they had loads of them and wanted rid-one cut
onecut... mine is not a csb, its a B
the csb (standing for model C school boxford) was a slightly shorter version of the C
its easy to tell the differences between boxford lathes
a. has thread cutting gearbox and power cross feed/carrage feed
b. has power cross feed/carrage feed
c. has neither of the above facilities
t. hasn't got a leadscrew / no thread cutting
then there is the aud, bud, cud, tud with UD standing for under drive (motor underneath lathe mounted in the cabinet)
check out the diagrams on the boxford spares website, it may help you reassemble
http://www.boxford-software.com/spares/3656menu.html
also search for the book, know your lathe: screw-cutting lathe manual (by boxford) there is a pdf available (free) so just google it. if you cant find it i might be able to email it to you
You should be able to identify the machine from numbers stamped on the end of the bed some where about the arrow points in pic.
They could be very faint but from these it should tell you the year of manufacture and model. Attachment 6399
Jazz is correct, this link should help you identify the year http://www.lathes.co.uk/boxford/page8.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
thats how i dated mine, it was made in 1958
Stripped my cabinet down using angle grinder got paint and primer from work they paint all our factory machines with it without problem so l thought the primer paint must be compatible so no worries there the primer is rust proof oil proof etc,put primer on its black went on ok 2 coats,after work put first coat battleship grey on cabinet didnt get far and it started to congeal tried again same thing paint fighting me all the way so in short a disaster will have to come off at weekend ,more money down the pipe no ten dolloars in my jeans,not a happy bunny-one cut
I hate to say that, but I did say do a trial first with Primer / final coat...Quote:
Originally Posted by onecut
RNR
RNR, Well l wont be doing that again it will be a test piece in future ,know you advised this l only got as far as tray top and stopped when the paint wouldn,t go on as l said got paint from work with compatible primer so thought they use it every day should be okone thing painter said at time didn,t put any significance against his comment theres your paint and primer primer takes a day to go off paint dries in an hour i,ll get you some thiners he didn,t come back must of forgot but l wasn,t bothered bought some on way home just paint that was suitable tried and tested that l wanted he asked me how l got on with primer said ok some blisters rub down and give it a second coat he asked day later how did finish painting go l said a disaster told him concealed as soon as l put on said sounds like you need some more thinners l said its ok l have my own he said cant do that paint,primer, thinners come as a package one wont work without the other thats why you having problems give me some thinners got home mixed it paint went on without problem wish l knew earlier but its looking decent with final coat to go on do on sat in natural light-he said same always do a test make sure right texture before you start-a happier bunny-one cut
Onecut please don't take what I'm about to say wrong way and I'm really one to speak because I'm FIK has brick and can't spell for toffee or know where to put full stops etc.!! . . . But your replys are so hard to read because you write in one continous string of words.
Break it down into sentences or on separate lines and it will be so much easier to read.
l know what you mean,l know lm doing it.No full stops,comma,s its a habit l,v had since my school days the teacher used to say brian to read out your work would be impossible as its all one long sentence and no one has the lung capacity to be able to do it ,then l would shut her up by finishing top at english,so no offence taken your correct in your observations and it has been well over 40yrs since l was a school boy,and as they say if you dont use it you lose it-one cut.
No worries but don't be surprised if when you post you don't get much response.?. . Basicly lots of folks won't take the time to decipher hard to read post's so skip on by.!!Quote:
Originally Posted by onecut
Which is ok most of the time if your just chatting but if your after help the it could delay a reply or answer from the one person who knows.?
Like I say not saying this to be offensive only point out what happens.! ( I do try to decipher most.!)
An easy way to get around that and keep everyone happy.... Pictures !!!! :cheerful:
Post some pics mate ! We all like them here!
RNR
ok, its been a while since ive posted and since then not much has happened with the lathe
since the last time i posted...
got some new toys, a centec 2 mill and a rexxon pillar drill (massive distraction)
had a couple of transport malfunctions (singing the 1980s honda blues)
started a new job! (after 2 years it was about bloody time)
and to top it all off the weather seems to have an annoying sense of humor
it seems like some higher power is at work trying to keep me from finishing the project!
after receiving questions about the motor mount from onecut i decided to take a few pictures and try to explain the counter-shaft assembly
this is the assembly (minus the counter-shaft primary pulley) with motor loosely in position
the motor is a modern-ish 1ph 1/2hp 1480 rpm
the motor's footprint was slightly off for this fitment, but that was soon cured by drilling and filing the rear 2 mounting holes.
if the motor's footprint is significantly different then an adaptor plate would need to be fabricated
the main thing to make sure of when fitting a motor is to make sure pulleys are as parallel as possible
Attachment 6631
both belts are tensioned by a single lever that mounts between the assembly and the back of the headstock
Attachment 6634
here we can see the counter-shaft primary pulley, this lathe originally had a set of 2 speed pulleys delivering power from the motor to the counter-shaft (giving 16 spindle speeds) this modern equivalent certainly does the job but limits me to 8 speeds. i plan on running a 3ph motor with a vfd in the near future so i wont bother sourcing/ machining a 2 speed set of pulleys
Attachment 6635
one thing to note, the csb model has a different "simplified" counter-shaft design
found these pictures today.
these are the first 3 i took of the lathe just before i bought it, back when i didn't have a clue :p
Attachment 6698Attachment 6699Attachment 6700
and for comparison...
this is the latest photo (note the bubble wrap method of paint protection)
Attachment 6701
sorry again about the disgraceful photo quality but its my only camera/phone
Yes! That's what I am talking about! :-) Now you understand what it takes and apreciate a well paint machine! :cool:
RNR
ok, slow progress but progress all the same
here is a slightly better pic than what i had posted last
Attachment 6842
the carriage is looking well with the cross slide and compound loosely fitted for the photo
notice in the background the tailstock base casting sporting the same colour
Attachment 6843
outside the shed we can see the change gear quadrant and tailstock casting receiving a good lick of paint
as you can see, the quadrant has received its first coat of red oxide primer and will get another one or two before being sprayed blue
on the other hand the tailstock casting has already had 2 coats of oxide and 2 of grey before being sprayed white, once dry it'l be assembled :joyous:
Attachment 6844Attachment 6845
here we have the tailstock ram, screw and handle already cleaned and handle painted ready for assembly
Attachment 6847
all the paintwork done in this thread has been with cans, from primer to lacquer the technique i find works best is to be very patient and take things slowly. i found out a long time ago that if i try to apply a full coat in one go that i am guarantee'd serious runs so light coats with a few minutes in between works well
its also good to make sure the nozzle is 100% clear and the can has been well shaken!
good job jonny one thing l noticed the crosslide that holds toolpost angler divisions on it ,you have yours tilted in picture,how come mine doesn,t move is it because yours is a b and mines a poor relation c-take care :-one cut
onecut
yours should
the cross slide has two grub screws to retain the compound, slack these off and it should swivel
Does anybody know the preload tension for the main shaft taper beings on a 1950's rear drive model C ?
Thanks
bryan
Hi.
What happened to the finished product? Got to the last page all exited and not a pic in sight...
Cheers,
Trevor.