Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Yes I know my machine use this setup but that was purely because 1610 or 1605 were not available ...
Thanks Jazz.... that's exactly what was befuddling me... That whilst I was pretty sure that you recommended 1610.... your machine uses 1605... Because it was in the early days of your evolution... Lol.
I didn't actually think that 1610 gave better torque than 1605... thought it was 'tother way around, but it has now finally sunk in! I just hope it doesn't drop out the other side....
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Use the largest you can fit in the boss of the pulley.! If going between teeth on pulley then just make sure you sink deep enough doesn't foul belt and no sharp edges.
I mainly use M5 and M6 some times M4. Bigger the better because the larger allen key means you can get good purchase for tightening plus more surface area on shaft flat.
That makes total sense.... I will make use of a service that beltingonline offer at a small-ish fee... they machine grubscrew holes... one/two off different sizes. Have just had a mosey at their website and the options available vary depending on pulley size... only M2-M3 for the smallest 12T pulley, M2-M6 for a 20T pulley, and M2-M10 for a 40T pulley. Their website also states that "Position of grub screws will be in hub as standard".... the hubs are only 5.5mm long so reckon that they put two opposite each other.
So.... I will use 1610 1:1 using 20T [o.d=36mm] pulleys with 2 off M6 grubscrew holes in each... and only look at other gearing ratios in the future if it seems necessary for specific tasks.
PS. I think Jonathan had mentioned I might as well use 1605 on the much shorter Z-axis for better resolution.... Is this because torque isn't really needed on this Axis... Unless drilling I suppose?
Thanks again,
Andy
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
If your drill is sharp enough you need relatively little torque to drill, much of the time the spindle will do most of it under its own weight...
Its all to do with cutting speed, feed rates and chip sizes...
Basically to drill a 6mm dia hole in Ali, needs a drill speed of 5000rpm and a feed rate of about 10mm/min (all nominal values, taken from one of the many online feed/speed calculators)
The force needed to push the drill through the material is roughly 6N, and the cutting power about 10W. (yes its theoretical, Jazz)
That 6N of force needs 5mN of torque on a 5mm screw or 10mN on a 10mm screw... it generally makes little difference so other parameters, such as cost, apply...
Though these are theoretical numbers, even if they are an order of magnitude out from reality, it still makes no difference. The main job of the ballscrew in the Z axis is to support the weight of the spindle, not to make a vertical cut...
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WandrinAndy
PS. I think Jonathan had mentioned I might as well use 1605 on the much shorter Z-axis for better resolution.... Is this because torque isn't really needed on this Axis... Unless drilling I suppose?
Yes thats the norm but more for the resolution than the torque. Believe me lack of torque won't be a problem unless you use a tiny motor.!!
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
irving2008
The force needed to push the drill through the material is roughly 6N, and the cutting power about 10W. (yes its theoretical, Jazz)
Not getting into this other than to say my 2.2KW (2200W) WC spindle is rubbish for drilling above 6mm in Aluminium.? WHY . . because where talking about very different things really.!!
When it comes to actual "real" cutting then torque very much does matter but that's not to be confused with pushing force but torque the spindle produces.
So Irving your correct regards pushing figures not being too important but the F/S aren't really practicle in "real" terms because no one would want to drill aluminium @10mm/min.? G-wizzard actually gives 2900rpm and 200mm/min has a conservative feed rate.? . . . . I actually drill aluminium @ 4500rpm and peck drill @ 600mm/min so big difference's here compared to 10mm/min @ 5K rpm.?
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Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Layout of the pulleys and belts (imaginative) for my X-Axis.... Pretty much as per normal recommendation I think, but have located the motor and idlers to one side as I want the bed to be unobstructed for passing through longer boards in the future when the sides will be mounted on an adjustable-bed steel frame, and the two cross-members removed.
Please shout if the short distance between the motor and RHS ballscrew pulley makes it more difficult to align the teeth on the cogs or align the pulleys.
Think I've found a use for MDF....... to cover the X-axis belts an pulleys!
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Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Shinobiwan
Andy is that a fixed rear end bed?
Nope Ant, my van has a double-bed/lounge at either end.
I've thought about using that end as my "workshop", but am so non-domesticated that I can't be arsed making up the bed every day, so just leave it permanently as a bed... And will initially use the area depicted in red for the build.
Doing a build in a caravan does raise some challenges... Later today I will be picking up some 18mm MDF (mostly cut to size) to make this little bench-let/steps/stool thingy that will be further modified with fence-like clamp thingies to help with drilling, tapping, and assembly.
Getting there slowly....
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Am busy "tooling up" for my build and I need to buy some taps for threading alu plate, and [possibly] the cores of alu extrusion... and have a few queries please:
I'm guessing that M5, M6, M8, and M12 should cover my needs.
What type of thread are the bolts that most peeps use... metric coarse or metric fine?
I will be using KJN 45x90 Heavy extrusion which has ribbed cores that I think have an internal diameter of 10mm and outer diameter of about 16-17mm. The core-bolts that can be bought from KJN are M12x30, and I think they have two versions of these, one of which is self tapping. Sadly these bolts don't use normal allen-keys £!*%!.
Wanting the frame to be as rigid as possible... Are these M12x30 bolts sufficient, are the self-tapping version sufficent, or would it be better to drill and tap for using bigger bolts?
Sorry about all the little questions, just need some help.
Andy
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Metric course: Buy spiral flute taps they make light work of hand tapping in aluminium.
Don't use the self tapping things KJN sell they are rubbish stripping heads very easy. Just normal M12 socket or button heads are fine for this profile.
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Jazz, got any good suppliers for taps?
I'm needing a couple..
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
i get a lot of stuff like this from RDGTools www.rdgtools.co.uk in Mytholmroyd either on ebay or drop in there from time to time when i'm up in Rotherham (someone has to) on business...
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
m_c
Jazz, got any good suppliers for taps?
I'm needing a couple..
I buy most of my stuff from cutwel tools www,cutweltools.co.uk
Not the one of the cheapest around but high quality and Ok prices. Great delivery and not unusual for me to order at 5pm and still receive next day am.!
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Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Thanks to Irving and Jazz, I'm going vertical... as this solves the logistical space constraints of doing my CNC build in my touring caravan whilst still living around it... and most importantly this has allowed a wider re-design getting rid of those finicky corner post thingamajigs!
Drive belt assembly for the X-Axis sorted... will use a 2250mm belt.
Getting closer to the end... of the beginning.
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Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
I'm still faffing about on my design, and have been thinking of the possibility of eventually upgrading my machine to handle 8x4 sheets of MDF... vertically.
So with this possibility in mind, have extended the length of the X-axis... ball-screw, profile-rail, and extrusion.
These components now give me a cutting length of 1220mm, whether they are initially used on the X-axis or later transferred to the Y-axis.
The unsupported Y-axis will initially be 800mm... and later 1400mm.
So I've redesigned my Y-axis as below. Although pictured horizontally, this machine will be used with the X-Axis running vertically. As always critique is most welcome...
Have also taken a stab at pulley brackets on the top [right] of the X-axis for the gantry counterweights.
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Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quick query on the adjustable recessed motor mounts that many folk seem to have machined.... I will be using Nema23 motors...
Is 10mm plate sufficiently thick for making the mounts... and then having a border of 10mm wide left unmachined all around the motor sufficiently strong?
Btw, for the counter-balancing I picked up some nice strong 60mm steel groove wheels from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3209778190...84.m1439.l2649
Re: DIY Build of Aluminium CNC Wood Router without Workshop & Tools
Quote:
Originally Posted by
WandrinAndy
Is 10mm plate sufficiently thick for making the mounts... and then having a border of 10mm wide left unmachined all around the motor sufficiently strong?
Yes it should be. I've done it by cutting a pocket for the motor into 1/2" aluminium, so the surface the motor actually rests on is only about 4mm thick, but the border is 12.7mm thick. This provides plenty of support without reducing the available shaft length.
