What grease do I use for bearings and ballscrew nuts? Didn't realise but some if mine are running dry at the moment!
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What grease do I use for bearings and ballscrew nuts? Didn't realise but some if mine are running dry at the moment!
http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/linear...on-grease.html
Basically it's not that important for a light-duty machine. I just clean the ballscrews every so often with a rag damped with a bit of gearbox oil (75W-90). Rails too.
Ballnut Lubrication / Grease - MYCNCUKQuote:
Originally Posted by Shinobiwan
Lubrication (OOooeerr missus) - MYCNCUK
and if your still not sure: Metal Working Lubricants, Coolants and Fluids - MYCNCUK
.Me
Thanks guys. Motor oil works a treat.
Motor oil might be a bit to heavy, plus the other thing you will need to keep an eye on is the swarf/dust sticking to the oil/grease on the screws which won't do the bearings a lot of good.
I'm using 10w/40 which is pretty light when you just coating the rails and screws. I agree with the sticky problem though! My Y and Z are well out the way but the X needs regularly cleaning. I use wd40 for that and works fine although tedious.
WD40 would probably work fine for lubricating it as well, not sure if it would be possible to fit some sort of bellows over the ballscrews to help keep dirt & dust levels down. Sure there must be something available off the shelf that would do the job.
Loving the speed and ease of the CNC. Got done in a week what would normally take a couple of months!
Now I just need a CNC spraying machine hmmm...
But not for very long as it evaporates quickly at room temperature.Quote:
Originally Posted by martin54
FLIPPING HECK!!!!! Where are those speakers supposed to go. Not sure I could even fit them through the front door. Look gorgeous mind.
Wow, excellent work, they look huge.Quote:
Originally Posted by Shinobiwan
We can do that easy.? Strap aerosol to Z axis program criss cross pattern in G-code stab hole in the can shut the doors and hit cycle start. . .LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Shinobiwan
Seriously thou I reckon thats easy done with a few modified touch up guns fastened to Z axis over lapping each other and air controlled by servo valves. Bit of playing with feed rates and patterns in G-code and you'd get a decent finish. Make a right mess of the Perspex thou Ant. . :emmersed:
Quote:
Originally Posted by motoxy
Speakers ???????????????
Ant told me they were headphones to fit Jazz's head
Not mine motoxy, wish they were though! For a guy in hong kong where I guess they have room for this sort of thing.
I'm imagining a guy sitting in a one room shack with these things pointing directly at him :) I can't afford a private toilet but I've got speakers I can hear from the public one!
Ye but he's too polite to tell you there real use.? . . . Coffins for shit stirring Old Bastard and his Hobnobs. . :smiley_simmons:Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
LOL :barbershop_quartet_
Now there's some hours on the machine and things are bedding in I decided to spend the day stripping down and removing all the ballscrews and nuts carefully putting them back together getting everything tight and aligned as possible. There's virtually no bind anywhere now and it shows in the speeds and acceleration it can achieve. Those Leadshine AM882 are awesome! I could have gone past 16.5m/min but Mach was limited by my max 45k PP speed so I went and whacked the acceleration all the way up to 4000mm/sec^2 instead lol
Ps. Don't run at these speeds or accel as its overkill but its nice to see the effort from careful setup confirmed with a speed increase. I run at 10m rapids and 5m on the Z. That's more than enough for me but its nice to know there's lots of head room there.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vV8lB6K-zUU
Had another go at making a dust shoe and after picking up some cast acrylic this attempt came out much better. A week or so ago I did try to cut the same parts out of extruded acrylic and that stuff melted no matter what I did. Lesson learned - go with cast if the finish quality matters.
Thanks to M.Marino for the advice on feeds and speeds. 3.5m/min with 3mm DOC and 14000rpm worked a treat.
Looks good :) I've been struggling to get a good finish on cut acrylic for a little while and although I'm doing pretty well with it now I wonder if I also have extruded sheet. I'll have to check!
What vacuum do you have? I made my dust shoe suck up directly around the spindle rather than just to one side. It works nicely no matter what direction I'm cutting, but I do wish I could get a stronger suck!
Its one of these.
Buy Numatic NVD750 Workshop Vacuum Extractor from Axminster, fast delivery for the UK
With two 1200w motors there's plenty of suction. The bristles keep the stuff thrown by the cutter contained and the vacuum does the rest.
Magic Videos, and great Job. It occurred to me the videos would make a great advertisement for Strike-Cnc if they start up again as they have no Video Titles on them :hysterical: Great Job.. Rick
Not normally worth posting about replacing the bed but I picked up a sheet of Trespa Athlon from a friend and have to say this is makes a great bed. Plenty of mass, well damped against vibration, dimensionally stable, tough and still easy to drill and set up fixtures. The construction is a fibre reinforced resin with a laminated finish. I've had a quick go with an offcut made when sizing the sheet to fit the bed and it machines really nicely.
I got this sheet for nothing and I'm not sure on pricing but Performance Panels : Home stock it.
OK here we have my first go at cutting aluminium. I had so much fun with these. Wood seems boring in comparison and you've got to be so much more mindful with how you go about cutting it. Oh and the engraving was an absolute frigtastic nightmare as well. Broke 3 cutters before I finally hit the g spot. Admittedly the cutters are uber fragile since they're pretty much needles sticking out of a 3hp spindle spinning them round at 24000 rpm. Even getting it slightly wrong would break them. There's a strong chance I'll end up getting a laser cutter/engraver at some point because its a painfully slow this way. Looks cool though and that's what counts.
I finished them up with fine brushed effect and then sealed with a couple of coats of clear because without either that, etching or anodising then natural aluminium is a finger print magnet.
As an experiment I'm going to have a go at filling the text with black spray on the One.10 plates. Once the excess paint is sanded back to the aluminium leaving only the lettering black it should look alternatively awesome. I choose not to do it for the Apollo as I really like the way they're looking straight out.
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Bloody hell so posh now you got to ware gloves hey? Nice job :beer:
Try drag engraving, next to impossible to break a cutter.
http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk...engraving1.jpg
Circle is 50mm diameter, small letters near the bottom are 1/2 a mm
Laser will only engrave alloy if it's been anodised and the letters are always white, so just using anodised alloy looks a bit like an Italian flag, white cross on white background.
You need a colour that compliments it like red, blue or black.
http://www.stevenson-engineers.co.uk...ed%20plate.jpg
If you want it the opposite way, black letters on alloy then you need a product called Thermark which is a ceramic slurry made from 3rd dynasty Chinese Ming vases as it's £100 an aerosol [ no typo ] but does last a long while
Pissing hell John. Why didn't you say so before I spent a whole day dicking around with pieces of carbide string that break more often than a woman driver!Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Because you never asked dickhead.
Pfff all I'm hearing is excusesQuote:
Originally Posted by John S
I've had success with plaster of paris. Same effect and cost me nothing because I robbed it off the kids :)
Eh? Bit random there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Philly
You talking about drag cutting in plaster of paris?
Sorry, was referring to laser engraving :P
Wow, they look stunning, excellent work. How did you do the brushed effect? Can't wait to see the Apollo's completed.
Looking good, at least all the hard work you have put in getting the machine up to spec is starting to pay off now.