Desktop size steel welded router 3 axis

Another fabrication day.
Done some welding, this time I used 0.6mm wire for trial. Have to say that I am happy with results as my profile thicknes is 2.5mm and other plates are 5mm at this stage.
Attachment 16770
Welding is all about heat control and avoiding distortion.
Here is my setting for 0.6mm MIG
Attachment 16763
All major welding is done I believe. Cable chain-carier, table top, sensor will be bolted.
Here is some shots from today:
Attachment 16764Attachment 16766Attachment 16767Attachment 16768Attachment 16769Attachment 16771Attachment 16772Attachment 16773

Time for Y axis drive. Gantry legs will be connected under the bed by flat steel 50x5mm.
I will use only one ballscrew for moving the gantry as this is desktop size machine (travel distance from left to right is 300mm, forward and backwards only 220mm).
I sacrificed 80mm of travel on Y for bigger distance between bearing block - stiffness won.
Attachment 16841
Had to fabricate Ballscrew nut bracket today - picture later.
Than I can center the ballscrew mount (front and back) so there is no tension on screw when turns backwards/forward.
A lot of steps in fabrication depends on previous - all related. Can not jump forward without doing something which have to be done first. Sometimes I loose the plot and do something what shouldn't be doing at that time like - pick up for sensors:
Attachment 16842Attachment 16843
or sensor bracket/s

It's the little details that eat the time but they also make the difference between just OK machine and great machine. This is well on way to being great machine so keep it up mate and no rushing. :thumsup:

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

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Originally Posted by Tom J

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

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Yep I do the same paper and Spray mount it's priceless.!. . I even do the same On cnc machine some times when cutting parts out of large sheet just to be sure they'll fit and not waste material or clash with clamps etc. I then write Tap sizes etc for holes on sheet to remove chances of error etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom J

Thanks Jazz, SolidWorks helps a lot, I print the template before I drill any hole and cat any shape, use automatic puncher to be precise. Can not wait to the end.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Yep I do the same paper and Spray mount it's priceless.!. . I even do the same On CNC machine some times when cutting parts out of large sheet just to be sure they'll fit and not waste material or clash with clamps etc. I then write Tap sizes etc. for holes on sheet to remove chances of error etc.

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Thanks chaps, for a desk based worker like me those are brilliant tips! I hadn't realised the benefits of an automatic puncher and I hadn't thought of printing a template. Now to see if the free version of Sketch-Up can print to scale? And find out what sort of spray mount to use?
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"An automatic center punch is a hand tool used to produce a dimple in a workpiece (for example, a piece of metal). It performs the same function as an ordinary center punch but without the need for a hammer. When pressed against the workpiece, it stores energy in a spring, eventually releasing it as an impulse that drives the punch, producing the dimple. The impulse provided to the point of the punch is quite repeatable, allowing for uniform impressions to be made." https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automatic_center_punch

Attachment 16887Attachment 16888
Got problem with proxy sensor in X axis - not too much room to fit.
Any recommendation for flat body type and 1-2mm range PNP NC like that:

Attachment 16889

I find the Round type better has they give more adjustment. Use traveling switch then you'll only need one per axis and it can travel with Z axis facing down there's plenty of room on back of there for a bracket and loads of room on top of gantry for targets.?

Got some old alu plate - enough for table
Attachment 17582
Bed profile was 2.5mm thick before. Now after surface planing is a bit less so I used thread rivet to fit the table top.
Attachment 17583
Attachment 17584M5 countersink bolts

Attachment 17585 One Y sensor for Home and Limit (PNP NC)

Ali plate will make a nice bed. Any reason you didn't put the proxy on the other side where it can't run into the stepper motor?

Yes Neil, here is the reason:
Attachment 17586cable chain took space on other side

Attachment 18136Attachment 18137Attachment 18138Attachment 18139Attachment 18140
So close to the end - Home/Limit X sensor (showing pick up blocks)

Working on Z plate. Many problems with low profile rails - will never buy them again. Original plan was to use 5M belt rather than RM14 ballscrew
Attachment 18161Attachment 18160Attachment 18159Attachment 18158Attachment 18157
Attachment 18156Attachment 18155Attachment 18154Attachment 18153Attachment 18152Attachment 18147Attachment 18151Attachment 18148
Attachment 18149Attachment 18150Attachment 18141Attachment 18142Attachment 18143Attachment 18144Attachment 18145Attachment 18146

Attachment 18567Attachment 18569
All tested - managed to smashed X axis sensor (was sticking out too much and hit the target, another one was flickering when close to target - cheap Chinese sh***t - cost me time replace)

Black oxide kit used to blacken the steel parts - mostly mild or bright steel

Attachment 18575Attachment 18570
Now everything strip down for painting

Attachment 18573Attachment 18571
I use body filler to cover imperfection
Already lost patience and final result not brilliant
Attachment 18576Attachment 18577Attachment 18578Attachment 18579

Final look
Attachment 18723Attachment 18724Attachment 18725Attachment 18726Attachment 18727Attachment 18728Attachment 18730Attachment 18731Attachment 18732Attachment 18729

Looking good Tom.:yahoo:. . . . Now it's time to get dirty. .:onthego:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom J

Final look

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Is the inductive sensors good for this?
Why did slow down the steppers?

Nice build Tom.
Thanks for posting
Mike

I do not recommend Chinese sensors, few of them failed before I finish calibration (one I managed to smash)
I tried 2mm and 4mm seems to be no difference in accuracy. I wanted to improve accuracy for homing but there is no difference with decent omron mechanical switch - wasted money in my case.
I use Z18 and Z20 pulley which gives 0.8 gear ratio. Machine mend to mill alloy, so do not need super speed 1400mm/min at 64 microsteps. Might change setting when start cutting P6 alloy or similar.
I use Digital drivers DM 542 - thanks Jazz for advise, much better, smooth, quiet run.
I am not happy with this usb card
Attachment 18740
I lost soft limit function over the night without touching anything - was ok, and now machine is in limit but message says that is out - you can not win.
Homing was ok, now every axis trigger home and have to be reset to do another axis till all done.
Reset has to be pressed twice, so often. I think to come back to DOB 25 and LPT port.

Tom I've fitted couple hundred Chinese Prox switches and had probably less than 12 faulty ones. At just over £1 each they cannot be beaten by any Switch for the money. Don't use Omron but I'm pretty sure they will be quite bit more than £1. . . .You wasn't trying to use them with 5V was you.?

Regards Controller you get what you pay for I'm afraid and I cringe when I see people say they bought cheap chinese controller. EVERY motion controller for Mach is only as good the Plugin that runs it and NO Chinese controller is supported by Artsoft so your onto loser from the start.
But can tell you decent Motion controller has the same if not more impact than going from Analog to Digiital drives. Combine the two and you have Huge improvement of PP and Analog.

Cslabs are my first choice but you won't go wrong with Pokeys 57CNC or UC300/UC100 if on budget.

Jazz I might be unlucky, 2 sensors were blinking close to target (made, not made state) all powered by 24V.
XHC board wasn't budget £105, yes you correct they as good as plug-in, second one only works - sort off.

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Originally Posted by Tom J

XHC board wasn't budget £105, yes you correct they as good as plug-in

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Yes it is Budget it's just over priced.!!:cower:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7i-KkY_R2g

Still not happy with the speed of X axis. Motor had to be slow down to 1450mm/min.
Z and Y goes above 2000mm/min.
Today I run only ballscrew nut with everything loose and still stalling.
I remember noticed that on dry test (driver - motor) one was stalling at much lower speed.
My motor is 23HS8630B with 1.6mH phase inductance, powered by 24V only, 6 cables (4 used only +A-A+B-B)
I use 4 wires so winding are in series 0 is not in use

Attachment 18750
I will keep it connected that way do not want to sacrifice torque at low speed, so need more voltage.
Am I correct?

Tom 24V won't even get it out of first gear. but it will depend on what drivers you are using. if you have decent drives running about 50-70V it should fly.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Tom 24V won't even get it out of first gear. but it will depend on what drivers you are using. if you have decent drives running about 50-70V it should fly.

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I use DM542, they can handle max 50V, so I can not safely plug in to my big box
Attachment 18751

Ok well can you try it at 45V and see how it goes

... will post results with 41.5V, that what I've got from torus trafo 2x30V 2x7A, after rectification voltage went up nicely.
Waiting for GBU805 - Bridge Rectifier 8A 600V and capacitors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom J

... will post results with 41.5V, that what I've got from torus trafo 2x30V 2x7A, after rectification voltage went up nicely.
Waiting for GBU805 - Bridge Rectifier 8A 600V and capacitors.

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Tom like I told you in PM you sent me.!! Voltage makes big difference to speed but even more so with Series wired motors. You'll see improvement with 42V but if you want real improvement then buy some 8 wire motors and wire them parallel. With series wound motors you'll need much more than 42v to get decent speed.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIxBAPsGKjo

Volts make prizes.!!! . . . . Nice looking machine Tom and very well made . .:applause:

Tom it looks like you could increase the acel settings. Have you thought about putting a W.C spindle on it?

Nice machine.

Nice build Tom :thumsup:

Much better now.

Looking at your control box picture in post#66 the stepper motor cables are very close to the toroid - seems to run OK without load and without spindle running but one to watch if it glitches ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Tom it looks like you could increase the acel settings. Have you thought about putting a W.C spindle on it?

Nice machine.

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Waiting for 48V PSU and will try to bring voltage to 45V and tune again.
I had one 1.5 Kw fi 60mm, but was leaking so had to send it back.
2.2kW is way too big.
See on design:
Attachment 18803Attachment 18800Attachment 18801Attachment 18802Attachment 18804

Quote:

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Originally Posted by routercnc

Much better now.

Looking at your control box picture in post#66 the stepper motor cables are very close to the toroid - seems to run OK without load and without spindle running but one to watch if it glitches ?

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Picture 66 shows different control box - 7A biger machine and was unfinished - cable runs on other side and all are screened and grounded to the plate. Inverter is outside with built in emf.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tom J

Waiting for 48V PSU and will try to bring voltage to 45V and tune again.

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Be careful Tom because these drives don't tolerate much over 52V Spike so if your Input voltage varies very easy to peak above 50V.
Certainly don't go above 45V.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Be careful Tom because these drives don't tolerate much over 52V Spike so if your Input voltage varies very easy to peak above 50V.
Certainly don't go above 45V.

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Great stuff.
Just tested:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-DC-5-12...-/351624473683

I can adjust voltage from 32-57V DC and there is no spike on start up.
still have to find sweet spot below 50V taking emf into account.

Ok thought you was talking toroidal transformer. Personaly Not fan of these type of supplys because they can Clamp and lock up if the back Emf gets high. That said If your not flying about with fast direction changes and on light-ish machine probably not have any issues.?

I only temporarily hook up toroidal trafo , this gave me only 40V (2x30V AC).
My control box is very small same like machine so end up with Chinese power supply - not so big fun of them, but hey ho.

Jazz what do you mean by clamp and lock up when EMF gets high?