Are taper lock pulleys a good choice for ball screws?

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Originally Posted by routercnc

The other thing to think about is for an axis with double ballscrews you need to be able to square the gantry. This might mean being able to rotate one ballscrew very slightly by hand (without the pulley secured) until the gantry is square, so a key way or D flat would not work as this puts the pulley at a fixed location on the ballscrew. A simple pair of grub screws allows the pulley to sit at any angle on the ballscrew.

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Shouldn't it be possible to auto-square using 2 drivers and adjustable endstops?

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Originally Posted by routercnc

The other thing to think about is for an axis with double ballscrews you need to be able to square the gantry. This might mean being able to rotate one ballscrew very slightly by hand (without the pulley secured) until the gantry is square,

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Which is what I do with my twin screw router:thumsup:

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Originally Posted by JeffZ

Shouldn't it be possible to auto-square using 2 drivers and adjustable endstops?

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Yes but you likely need to square it when you first build it.

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Originally Posted by JeffZ

Shouldn't it be possible to auto-square using 2 drivers and adjustable endstops?

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Yes and No.?

The problem with using the switches to get the square is you are applying twisting forces on the gantry/linear bearings/ball screw combination causing friction that will very quickly rob power and lead to stalls or missed steps and excessive wear.!.

You need to set the gantry as close to square as possible mechanically ie: loosening pulleys and plates etc so there are no twisting forces on the linear bearings and ball screws. So having setscrews rather than key ways allows you to turn the ball-screw and have it spin in the pulley for fine-tuning because the belt pitch won't allow fine-tuning.

Then if required only use the switches for the very fine tuning.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Yes and No.?

The problem with using the switches to get the square is you are applying twisting forces on the gantry/linear bearings/ball screw combination causing friction that will very quickly rob power and lead to stalls or missed steps and excessive wear.!.

You need to set the gantry as close to square as possible mechanically ie: loosening pulleys and plates etc so there are no twisting forces on the linear bearings and ball screws. So having setscrews rather than key ways allows you to turn the ball-screw and have it spin in the pulley for fine-tuning because the belt pitch won't allow fine-tuning.

Then if required only use the switches for the very fine tuning.

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Ah, that makes sense. Thank you for explaining.

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Originally Posted by JeffZ

I did some more research and came across these types of clamping pulleys:
Attachment 29868

What are your thoughts on these?

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I'd give these a go on the ballscrew end.
Needs a bit more research but I've seen them on aliexpress.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000311379356.html

Edit:
Amazon is much more £
https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=clamp+T...ref=nb_sb_noss

IMO The advantages of "taper-lok" and my DIY ER solution is that they are more compact, better concentricity, better grip, no damage to the shaft from grub screws, infinite ajustability and depending on pulley size less mass.