Router Modifications to Allow Cutting of Woodworking Joints

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Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

You won't be laughing when I put a rotary table in the same hole :thumsup:
Allan, with regard to your idea, I would sort out how the software is going to work first.

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Not laughing at you mate think you have done a marvelous job and credit to you for an old duffer. . .Lol
By the way that same Rotary table on the end is just as functional if not more because you have a lathe as well as 4th axis if done right.!

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Not laughing at you mate think you have done a marvelous job and credit to you for an old duffer. . .Lol

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I know you're not laughing, get some London Porter down yer gob, from one old duffer to another :beer:

I've been getting back into some programming after a very long time, I forgot how much fun it was so haven't been in the shed for a week.
Anyway I've written a script for CamBam for cutting Finger Joints or Comb Joints and hopefully there will be more to come.
I've attached it here but any future updates need to be downloaded from the CamBam forum; http://www.cambam.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=4269.0
Just look for this title; Woodworking Joints - Finger Joints Script

The zip file should be extracted to your CamBam scripts folder where it will create a sub folder with the form images in it.

Attachment 14297

Second attempt, very pleased, this was the 'Antenna' preset pattern across a 58 mm width, 10mm thickness, cutter size 3 mm diameter. cutting time 5 minutes total.

Attachment 14304

Looking good Eddy nice work, a tip to avoid any break out on the back edges. Like at the top edge on the right hand bit of timber shown in the pic, use a bit of scrap even MDF to support the timber edge that is being cut. Another thing is to leave the finger slightly longer then sand down flush after gluing up.

Try doing something like a dovetail + finger joints, I would be interested to see how that comes out.
Mike :)

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Originally Posted by longy

Looking good Eddy nice work, a tip to avoid any break out on the back edges. Like at the top edge on the right hand bit of timber shown in the pic, use a bit of scrap even MDF to support the timber edge that is being cut. Another thing is to leave the finger slightly longer then sand down flush after gluing up.

Try doing something like a dovetail + finger joints, I would be interested to see how that comes out.
Mike :)

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Yes, thanks, I didn't bother about breakout this time because it was just a test and I didn't think it would turn out so good. I did leave an allowance for sanding flush, it's called Cleanup Allowance in the script, I left 0.1 mm but next time I might leave 0.2 mm.
Dovetails might be next but I think these days they are over rated, I read that the only people who look for them are those interested in making them, that's why I went for finger joints, thinking the pattern was more eye catching to your regular punters.

Hi all,

I don't know much about CNC machines but I like the table cut out idea a lot and can see it could be very handy for many jobs. I look forward to hearing more about it.

Thanks

Suesi

Looks good Eddy. G.

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Originally Posted by EddyCurrent

Dovetails might be next but I think these days they are over rated, I read that the only people who look for them are those interested in making them

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Dovetails are stronger and used mainly on drawers as when the wood shrinks the joint holds better, having said that with todays glues and kiln drying finger joints have started to out perform the old dovetail in strength and done correctly they can look as good as dovetail joints. Modern joinery has come a long way with most large and small projects being cut on CNC's of which I got to see a little one today.http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=14344&stc=1
Not to big for a 5 axis machine with a cutting area of 1.5 x 7.5 Meters.

Did think about sticking it in the back of the car when no one was looking, but would need a slightly bigger workshop. LOL

Interesting video here; http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-t...ngth-test.aspx


Also I've updated the script, it does stock with different thicknesses and can work in the X or Y axis, here's a test today. I keep forgetting to specify an odd number of fingers in order to get a symetrical pattern on each piece. :stupid:

Attachment 14345Attachment 14346