Found it.....:whistling:Quote:
Originally Posted by AdCNC
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Found it.....:whistling:Quote:
Originally Posted by AdCNC
lol not at johns then. did you "find it" nice and true faced? :P
No, did not borrow it from John...!lol
Made my entire machine out of the same grade and yes it comes in with a ground finish, really nice to work with.
He couldn't borrow it from me, he's borrowed everything else there nothing left..........................
.
I'm sure I could find something...Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
See you Tuesday!
Have you eaten all those hobnobs yet? Tesco are doing them 2 for 1 so can bring plenty round to keep you occupied...:heehee:
Right, drawing attached of proposed hole layout for bed.
Machine should be able to drill most of the holes but won't be able to tap them.
Just the 380 holes to tap by hand then......:confused:
I've got an air tapper, 20p per hole, hows that sound ?
.
Sounds bloody brilliant.Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Just re-designed it and it now only has 4 holes in, when can I come and 'borrow it' and drop the 80p off?
Perhaps he'll except hobnobs in payment! may work out cheaper!
Peter
In words of one syllable - get stuffedQuote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
Been drilling the 360 holes in the bed plate tonight, centre drilled them first then drilled them blind down to 19mm depth with a 6.8 drill ready for tapping.
Had to shuffle the plate along the bed so the machine could get to some of the holes, still need to shuffle it back to get to the remaining 60 that are left but should have it done for the end of the week.
Took a while so I did a video while I was waiting for it to finish, bit like watching paint dry but i thought i would share it with you...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJ5QxQ7JImM
Don't bother centre drilling, centre drills are a throw back to when you used dead centres in a lathe and the pip is to hold white lead as a lubricant.
Unless you actually need a centre hole for a lathe, use spotting drills then the size drill or even better is to buy a few good quality stub drills and just use these to start and finish the holes, saves hours of time and being short and stubby they are hard to break
Only used centre drill to pre-chamfer the holes before drilling and tapping, just happen to have one next to the machine that was the right size.
Seemed like a good idea at the time!
Get one of these.
Attachment 2109
Smart arse....Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
What is one of these John?Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Bed plate looks very nice Steve, will be emailing you later on with some parts to be cut :).
Thought that you was ignoring me....!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Roberts
Still got those ballscrews and ballnuts of yours, let me know what you want doing with them and I will get them sorted for you.
Na mate just been busy serving the Masses, i have been thinking of you tho :tongue::whistling:
Its the x side plates next, done the drawing just need to mark it up for you and email it.
Have you been trying to get hold of me or somthing ?
Lee, not been trying to get hold of you, just not heard from you for a while. Send me the drawings and I will see what I can do.
Found a kress spindle mount tonight that I had made a while ago so decided to get it mounted on my machine.
Now have my new 1 HP DC spindle which covers 0-7000rpm and the Kress which does 10,000 to 30,000rpm. The kress will only be mounted when I need it for engraving etc but only takes a few seconds to mount, now got the best of both worlds...
Looking good mate, will do. Just been busy with other things, lame i know but hey!
Quote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
Creep.........
BTW is that my Kress ?
.
Your Kress? No its not your bastard Kress, and the angle grinder is mine as well, now you are really taking the p......Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
*!/?-=# bastard let go me arm.................
following this thread with great interest, what make is the primary spindle you have the one that does 0-7000rpmQuote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
regards,
aidan
Aiden,
The primary spindle on my machine is detailed a little more in another thread I started - http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showth...machine-DC-1HP
But basically it was a spindle cartridge which I found in a box of bits and pieces which came with a lathe that I bought and was bundled up with some linear slides, looks like someone was thinking about making either a lathe or mill but never got further than collecting the parts together. I took the spindle cartridge and re-manufactured it into a usable ER16 collet version then bolted a 1HP DC motor to my machine and connected them together with a belt drive. Have a look at the attached thread and it 'may' make more sense...
So your question as to what make is the spindle head is..... mine! (sort of)
But, to make a similar spindle cartridge should be quite easy as after re-machining the one that I found I realized that there is not a lot to them, just get the right good quality bearings and the rest can be made on a lathe in a couple or 3 hours.
If you want more info then I will be happy to help and point you in the right direction.
What a great thread,
thank you its been was fun reading it,
If you were to start the build again would you change anything?
Well I know where to come when I build a bed mill, what a great thread, not to mention a great machine!! I expect you are very happy with it. I would be just standing back staring at it every now and then and in the words of a famous series and say " I Made This!" Cool
Rick
Sorry I have been a bit quite lately, been up to my neck with finishing my bathroom and various other diy jobs which seemed like a good idea at the time but was definatly not, had no time to play in the workshop but that will change very soon....
Currently sitting in a hotel lobby in turkey waiting to go to the airport, 37 degrees and it's 9 o clock at night, been sweating my nuts off the last 2 weeks and can't wait to get back to some 'proper' weather!
As for my machine... What would I change, mechanically not a lot as it is rock solid and gets very good accuracy as it is, maybe ditch the steppers and go for servo's but that's a lot of money for little gain as for as I can see.
Other than that then the next upgrade will be a coolant pump system for when I am cutting aluminium.
Anyway, I will be back in the morning so nobody get any ideas about coming round and nicking it, it's that heavy now you will need a forklift to shift it!
Too late, it's in the Donald, mate.
Auction 9:00 am in the Saltbox Cafe.
.
Bastard...!
Hi Steve, just havin a quick look over your build... (unless i missed it), you didnt mention where you get your alloy cutters from?
Been using these people for a while now - http://www.cutweltools.co.uk/home/milling-cutters
Quick delivery and pretty good prices, for general cutting (no good on aluminium) they were doing a deal on the K2 coated cutters a few weeks back, don't know if they are still doing them at the offer prices but worth asking.
For aluminium they do a Alu-power range, had good results with them.
Which of the range would you recommend / have you used?Quote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
These are the ones I have used - http://www.cutweltools.co.uk/files/w...lu%20power.pdf
2 Flute solid carbide - the cutting angles on these prevent the chips from sticking and blocking the cutter up, also plenty of fluid needed when cutting to wash away the swarf and keep the cutter lubricated.
The more solid the machine the better, if you have any play anywhere in your machine then you will find it when cutting aluminium, also realistic speeds and feeds need to be used to keep the cutter cutting and not just rubbing away the aluminium, too slow a feed rate combined with a not so solid machine and they wont last too long, you have to make them work to get the best results.
Dear Steve,
Absolutely amazing. Very nice and clean design. I would like to build a similar construction like your. You used 80 x 40 alu extrusion for bed. I have 50x50 extrusion for cheap price. What do you think: bolting together two of them would give the same rigidity like one 80x40? Or it is not the way to go?
Thanks for the comments...Quote:
Originally Posted by bjamc13
The reason for using 80 x 40 extrusion was so that I had a nice large surface area on the ends to help pull everything square when I bolted it together, and also in the 80 x 40 there are 2 mounting holes in each end which I tapped out M12, this meant I could put some decent size bolts in and really tighten them up to keep everything solid.
I can not see why 50 x 50 will not work on its own but putting 2 together to make 100 x 50 will certainly be better. Whether you need to do it depends on what you are thinking of using the machine for and how solid you want to make it.
Quick tip, obvious maybe, but when you drill the two endplate's that the extrusions are bolted to then clamp them together and drill all the mounting holes at the same time through both plates, it will make life a lot easier when trying to square the bed/machine up.
Hi Steve,
Thanks for the advices. Of course I will make the drilling as you suggested. I got the 15 m of this 50x50 extrusion for 80 EUR, so I don't have bad feeling using them all to build a solid machine.
I intend to mill wood, plastic and alu, but not the harder metals.
It seems that ZAPP has quite good prices for ballscrews&nuts, it's very likely that I will order from there. I have used ball screws, but they are heavy weight really: 40x12 in three sizes 400mm/10000mm/1080mm. I don't know if I will use them ever, because I don't want to waste so much power to move the gantry with these brutal screws. But if someone has good ideas how to utilize them .....
40mm dia ballscrews are going to really kill your acceleration, were these the ones advertised recently on ebay, ex VMC1010 machining centre?
Would gearing them down 3:1 (giving 4mm per turn instead of 12mm, and helping to turn all that inertia) make them more useable?
The pitch on the screw may not be the only problem, think about the size of the ballnuts. Finding space to fit them in and also making mounts for them could end up more expensive than downgrading to a more usable size like 16mm x 5mm pitch.