Hi,
the connection of the stepper motors is ok. Attached youīll find screenshots from my mach 3 config which should be as suggested. I think the problem comes from PIN 1 with the permanent voltage of -0,22 V.
Attachment 3278Attachment 3277
Printable View
Hi,
the connection of the stepper motors is ok. Attached youīll find screenshots from my mach 3 config which should be as suggested. I think the problem comes from PIN 1 with the permanent voltage of -0,22 V.
Attachment 3278Attachment 3277
Ok i checked you details against the manual located here www.lz4gv.com/CNC_files/3Axis_Driver_txt.pdf and it checks out correct so if all the wires are properly secured then it must be a problem on the board. I will assume you are using nema23 motors and the voltages for that motor are correct? they are wired for parallel operation?
Have you tried swapping the motors around to eliminate they are he problem? Check the bios on your pc and swap between ecp and epp if you can, some bios have these together or separate. If all this is ok the power up and switch on (not running any operation and check for voltage on the output pins of the board to the motors (A+). Which ever one is not working trace back to before the driver chip to the input pin and see if it is getting a supply. If not then the chance are it will just be one of the opto isolator IC's. You can confirm this by swapping it for one of the others. If they are ok then it will be one of the driver chips. I hope this gets you going in the right direction to sort it.
Paul
Hi Paul,
thanks for the detailed answer. Can you do me a favour and check on your PIN 1 (X-Axis Step) the voltage you have ? I have permanent 0,22V. For Y Axis and Z Axis i have step Pin voltage of 0 V, when i move axis in MACH3, voltage changes to -0,02 V. So i asked myself if PIN 1 also should have 0 V when axis it not moved. Or is it normal that PIN 1 has permant voltage of 0,22V ?
Regards
Andy
Andy
My board is different than yous as it uses the earlier TA chips, the set up is different but to answer the question i do not get voltage on that pin. A silly question though? you are using the original cable that come with it? as it is not the same as a printer cable.
Did you get your X working as I have the same problem? also anyone notice the pin outs on the board for the steppers are different to the instruction sheet which is right?Quote:
Originally Posted by masterploxis
Hi,
yes now everything is working. I took a different computer and voila ! First i did use a Fujitsu Siemends Laptop - X Axis not working, now i use IBM Thinkpad - and everything is nearly fine. For Christmas holiday i want to get a cheap second hand desktop pc to get the full 5 V out of the parallel port.
Anyway - my x-axis is still sometimes losing steps. I donīt know if this is a general problem with this chinese board or if thereīs a mechanical problem. But each day my machine gets better...
Good luck
Andy
Thanks for that MP I tried another PC with a built in LPT and It works, I previously used a PCI-E card which , was not giving a full output on X.
One question I still have how do you wire up the Spindle relay? I have a 230vac Spindle............... again the instructions are vague
Hi Garbo,
so far i didnīt connect the spindle relay. I also have a 230v spindle - first i want to get my steppers running without losing steps. Then i will approach the spindle.
Cheers
Andy
Same here I find its not a problem switching it on by hand, I have not experienced losing steps yet but I dare say I will
Hi all,
I recently got this TB6560 board from eBay as well. Are there any schematics of this board available?
Greetings,
Hermann
Attachment 3503Attachment 3502
Maybe someone could be interested about the way i modified ground path around TB6560s in my 3 axis board, blue PCB.
Here is the link to italian forum where i published same photos : http://www.cncitalia.net/forum/viewt...26754&start=10
I also changed Fosc capacitor (pin 7 to ground) from 1nF to 100pF and, in conjuntion to step lines optocouplers bypass, now the board works flawlessy with Fstep of 50Khz.
Yes, i know, datasheet reports 15Khz max ...
But i don't mind about that.
Marco.
Interesting Marco... did I understand you bypassed the optocouplers? That would increase the step rates, the optocouplers they use are fairly low-spec. Personally I would have looked at replacing them with higher spec devices and retained the isolation.
Hi Irving,
the power section of these cards is not galvanically insulated from parallel port connection, both share same ground.
Here, optocoupling gives only a partial safety gain, because a lot of current could flow through PC ground.
So we have a "half way" protection, capable only to break direct reflow of high voltage supply on parallel port lines.
Placing high speed optocouplers, like 6N137, is not simple because they do not have same pinout.
So i simply bypassed step lines optocouplers with 270 ohms res., in future i will place zener diodes (or transzorbs) on HC14 side and i will change resistors with higher value ones, to eliminate the high voltage reflow risk.
I have to say that the full modded board behaves good, but the fix was a sort of personal challenge :smile:
Marco.
Hi
I have the 3.5 amp version of the board. The limit resistors are .15 ohm on mine. If I wanted to run .4 amp motors, what should I change the resistors to to.
I have .33 ohm resistors so was hoping to use them, but my maths isnt good with amp v etc
also is it ok to just change the resistors? As I understand the 2.5a boards are the same but with different resistors?
From datasheet :
Iout(A)=0.5V/RNF(Ω)
Result : I out = 0.5V/0.15 Ohm = 3.33(3)
From datasheet tb6560 has the maximum of peak at 3.5 A.
ah great, thats what I was looking for.
So .33 ohm gives me 1.51, perfect
Also I have a 1.2A 3.8v stepper. Is there any harm in running it at 1.51A?
always have a look on datasheet of component.
also please take note that I have seen on many Chinese boards that the dip switches settings are described wrong.
I am using one of these boards with no problem what's so ever, mind i do have a 120mm blasting cold air on it, I have it running for 6 hours non stop, I do find the steppers get very hot is this normal?
I am using one of these boards with no problem what's so ever, mind i do have a 120mm fan blasting cold air on it, I have had it running for 6 hours non stop, I do find the steppers get very hot, is this normal?
Depends how hot is very hot! 80°C on the motor surface is OK. If it's too hot then turn the current down a little. You won't need to turn it down much since power is proportional to current squared....Quote:
Originally Posted by gorbo
Thought this was the most appropriate thread to put my question in.
I bought this board (3-axis one) after my previous Xylotex one blew up.
Here was me thinking it would just be a straight swap... and I'd be away!
Anyway, connected it all up, and when I try and jog the machine in Mach3 nothing happens, but I can hear the motors idling.
The board is rated upto 36v. Have tested the power going into the board at 27V so that shouldn't be a problem.
The X/Y/Z axis leds sometimes come on but if they do, they always go off when I load up Mach3.
The settings and pinouts all seem to be fine in Mach3 - I have checked them time and time again.
Without Mach3 open, there is no voltage going to any of the motors. Once I open it, there is ~1.7V/0.8A of power going to the A+/A- phase of each motor. And no power going to the B+/B- phase.
Excuse my lack of knowledge, but I assume the output voltage of the board to the motors should change when running a CNC program or jogging the machine? This does not happen. It stays idle.
So I'm mega confused and not sure whether its Mach3, the board or the motors which are the problem.
If anybody has any suggestions I'd be greatful!
With my limited experience with these boards heres some ideas:
You are using LPT1 port on your PC is it a desktop PC? these boards wont run with a low power output on the LPT ie; laptops or USB converters, I know i have tried
You have the right driver on the software?
Good luck these are great boards..............when you get them running
Is this resolved yet? It is a long time since it was posted, but.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunny
Another likely reason is the printer port having the wrong address. There are 3 possible addresses for the parallel printer port. Wrong address = no go.
Regards from Alan D.
i know this is an old post, but ive just come accross it. ive been on cnczone and asked about a full kit for my first build.
i have been told.
Run far and fast from that controller. Search this site for TB6560 and you'll have all the info you need. Almost 500 posts in this threadalone.
so what do you think...
hope to get much info on ere. im in the uk myself.
:confused:
My advice after having one of them boards is to stay clear, and save the money and get some real drivers something like the 542 or 752.
+1 for the separate drivers, all in one means one down put in bin!!
Peter
Quote:
Originally Posted by ptjw7uk
so hows this, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CNC-Kit-5-...ht_11593wt_995
seems abit expensive.. no power supply and no motors... is there a cheaper option...
sorry. im a begginer.lol
Have you had a look at the Items For Sale section of the forum, to see if anyone here is selling any drivers, motors, or power supplies?
+2 for the separate drivers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossleymarko
By all means read 500 posts, hopefully it will persuade you not to waste time and money buying one of those drivers when you'll almost certainly want to change it to something better later on.
That's not a bad price, keep looking on eBay as you'll probably find some a bit cheaper. But before we go too far with this - how big is the machine you're intending to build and what well you be cutting predominantly?Quote:
Originally Posted by crossleymarko
hi thanks all,
should i start another thread. feel like im hijacking.
machine will be a 6x2 or 4x4 not sure yet. its gonna be a work in progress. should be getting the workshop built in the summer. so doing the research etc now..
and its mainly gonna cut mdf... or perspex
Hi to everybody,
I am using two off these boards on my cnc machines for two years and have no problems whit these,but Iam a hobbyist no a pro.
Thes boards are very cheap instead they are sold for 140 Euros in Germay.I bought them in China for minus of 50 Euros.
At this price you can budget a reserve one in case off!
See you
Mike
I've got one of these boards running my CNC3040.
I'm curious because it is running on 24V and gets nothing like hot, but it sounds like most here find they get rather warm. I think I could even run mine without the fan!
It also doesn't go very fast - I can get a reliable 1200mm/min from it. I did run it at 1900mm/min but found it occasionally skipped steps.
Is this normal? Have I got something set-up wrong?
The stepper motor shows about 2 Ohms across each of the connections to the board. I don't know if this means it is in parallel or series as the connections at the motor end are covered by heat-shrink.
The big resistors near the output (I assume current sense) are 0.4 Ohms.
Measuring across one of these I get 200mV on idle and 280mV at full speed. That is about 0.7A, so does this means the motor is drawing 1.4A because it is each phase? You can see the measurements below.
This is at idle. The time base is 50us/Div
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...on_uk/idle.jpg
This is at full speed, but please note the time base is now 10ms/Div
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t.../FullSpeed.jpg
On the 'idle' graph I make it 12% duty cycle. So since current is 0.5A peak, that makes it:
0.5*0.12=60mA average
0.5*0.12^0.5=173mA RMS.
Can't really find anything useful from the other graph - it just shows how at that speed the current is limited by the inductance of the motor. I guess we could calculate the motor inductance ... T=2.07ms, change in current is 700mA, so dI/dt=700/2.07=1.449A/s (linear approximation).. applied voltage is 24V minus a bit for losses so call it 23V, so the inductance L=24/1.449=15.9mH (roughly, oversimplifying a bit there). That's either a pathetic motor or I've done something wrong! Unless it's wired in bipolar series, that would be reasonable since the same motor in bipolar parallel would be about 3mH which is not bad.
Either way these numbers seem a bit fishy.. please could you link to the motors you are using (datasheet?) and confirm that the resistor you're measuring across is definately 0.4ohms, not two 0.4 ohm resistors in parallel or something like that.
The simple answer is just increase the current and so long as the motors don't get too hot, i.e. above 80°C on the case, it's fine.
Hi,
The motors don't get hot at all, and neither does the driver board.
I don't know what motors they are, they are no doubt pathetic as they come with the CNC3040 and are small.
I stuck my LCR meter across one of the connection to the board. It tells me 1.93mH at 15KHz and gives 1.4R DC resistance.
I stripped back the wires at the motor end. There are actually 6 wires coming out, 2 of which are not connected at all, and the other 4 go to the board, so it seems I don't have any choice about series or parallel.
The resistors seem to be one per phase and are 0.25R. I thought it was 0.4R because the meter probes have a small series resistance.
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC_0054.jpg
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC_0055.jpg
Oh and the dip switches are set like this:
http://i608.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/DSC_0056.jpg
The 0.25 ohm resistors should give you 2 A maximum. Your DIP switches are set for 75% current so that gives 1.5 A - not far from your measured 1.4.
You should be able to identify your motor from this data sheet:
Attachment 6131
I doesn't seem to be any of those! Body length is 53mm, phase resistance is 1.4R and phase inductance is 1.9mH.
I found that when I set the current limit switch to 100% it ran worse.
I could increase the voltage to the board. The motors nor board run hot. Is it safe to do so, and should I make that mod listed earlier - http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showth...ll=1#post19305
Did you measure the body length including the boss? If so it should be 51 mm and is probably a 57BYGH51-602A and produces 100 oz.in (about 0.7 N.m) at 2 A. Your resistance and inductance figure aren't a mile off considering the quoted tolerances.
I know the voltage rating is higher than 24 V but, considering the reliability (or lack of it) of these boards I would be nervous of doing so. Some of the mods suggested on various sites are decidedly dodgy!
Russell.
Nope, excluding like the diagram.Quote:
Originally Posted by russell
Just measured my motors which are the 76 mm type and they measure 77.6mm so I still think you have the 57BYGH51-602A type.
Your waveforms look strange to me. The voltage across the current sense resistors should go between 0.5 V and - 0.5 V at 100% torque or 0.375 V at your 75% setting. Is the earth on your oscilloscope properly isolated from the board? If I remember rightly the isolators on these boards only isolate the signal lines not the earth. Are all three outputs the same?
Russell.
Doh - I think I must have had a senior moment last night! I was assuming that the current sense resistors were in series with the motor but of course they are the other side of the output bridge so the current is unidirectional there thus it should be going from 0 to 0.375 V.
Still the waveforms don't look right to me. I can't check on my board as I no longer have access to an oscilloscope but according to the data sheet the motor current waveforms should look like this:
Attachment 6135
The waveform across the current sense resistors will of course be rectified.
Hope that helps.
Russell.