Not the sort of amateur mistake I’d make! You forget, I have nearly 8 weeks of experience under my belt:hysterical:
Printable View
Not the sort of amateur mistake I’d make! You forget, I have nearly 8 weeks of experience under my belt:hysterical:
Just finished my first commission..... admittedly it’s for a family member’s business. This thread is now turning from a “look at Dean’s machine” thread into a “look at what Dean’s machine made” thread!
Attachment 29772
Attachment 29773
Attachment 29774
Attachment 29775
Attachment 29776
The machine is just a Tool and Dumb as a rock, you are the artist who makes it rock, and seeing what you cook up then you won't have any trouble finding work.:toot:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
One of the comments I've received more than once when talking about my CNC router is that "the machine does all the work for you". You might as well say that Canaletto's brushes did all the work for him.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Lovely work as usual.
Kit
I joined team JazzCNC on Wednesday and had a great day taking delivery of machine from Dean and his son. They took me through the machine really comprehensively and Ive since had a bit of time getting to grips with it. I wanted a CNC primarily for guitar building so today I decided to jump in and cut a test body. I scaled my model down to 30% in Fusion and set about greating the g code for it. Using a combination of straight cutter and ball nose for the carved top gave me a bit of experience in tool changes within the same job , basic stuff no doubt for you seasoned machinists, but a confidence booster for me, knowing I could carry out the work flow correctly. The machine is a beast !! I don't have much for a reference save for my mates massive SCM machine but my little Jazz 9060 punches above its weight for sure.....
Attachment 29779
Now that Im up and running I hope to be able to contribute here and show you some of the things I make on my new journey .
Thanks again to Dean and Jared :encouragement:
Looking good so far beeceuk. You could make that into a violin!
Thanks dean. But with my blunt Irwin saw and wood chisels that have split bricks, I don’t think it would have turned out quite the same! But I certainly see your point.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Next week is carving week. Got a ridiculous project in mind that Aspire recons is 72 hours cut time. “Run from here” and “feed hold” at the ready!
Another family commission! Just need to break into the real world!
Set of 8 placemats for the in-laws. Over complicated, over engineered but a good practice to hone skills. My father in law commented I should sell these...... didn’t tell him I’d need £500/set for my time and effort!
Attachment 29798
Attachment 29799
So after nearly 3 days cutting, mainly down to my ridiculous tool choice, I’ve finally finished my 3D (or 2.5d?) carving. Added a bit of stain to age it up a bit and hey presto, looks like it’s nicked off the Cutty Sark!
Attachment 29820
Attachment 29821
Under the circumstances we'll excuse you the requirement to cut an Aztec calendar to join the 'real men' of CNC.
Kit
Nah that's a test of the machine, not the "Man" and the machine has already done that as it's my test cut...:victorious:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitwn
Dean has cut an aluminium one prior to my pickup..... but I too have made an outside table top! Double man.
Attachment 29822
I had a bash at a Lithophane last night. Strange thing where the carving looks weird until you hold it up to light. Carved in that engineered stone stuff Corian/Staron
Made another video creation if you’re interested. Maybe some of you have seen a CNC in operation before?! :joker:
https://youtu.be/JeOoTEsQQMQ
Another feather in your Cap Mr. Spielberg...:toot:
Any more suggestions Dean? What else can you do with a CNC?!
Got a garden table idea to CNC some old parquet blocks up to make a funky pattern.
That has to be the best bit of router-porn we've ever seen! Those close-ups!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
When are we going to see a tutorial on how to install that pendant and tool setter with UCCNC and where did you get the nice spindle spanners?
Excelent work as always.
Kit
The pendant is plug and play. Dongle in a usb slot and hey presto it works like a charm.
Touch off plate and spanner’s came with the machine
Well, not exactly correct, we set it up UCCNC before you took the machine so the pendants can be added at a later date if required. This is why it just worked for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
However, that said it's not difficult, just a few settings in the plug-in and it's working. If anyone needs any help getting one to work just ask.
Kit the pendant is just a plug-in which you select from the plug-ins and adjust a few settings, it's simple enough to do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kitwn
The Tool setter is just a "free to use" macro, I think we got it from the UCCNC forum or some website and tweaked it to suit our needs. I would normally write my own but I didn't have time to mess around and UCCNC uses C## which I'm not the best at so it would have taken me even longer.
Again it's not difficult to get working, just copy and paste job into the right macro and make a change to a few settings in the macro to account for the thickness of your offset (touch plate). The wiring is simple, just create a circuit into a single input.
When I have a little time I will post the Macro.
Oh, the spanners are just 5mm plate cut on our plasma, nothing special.
I’m back! Been off my CNC for a week or so whilst working and knocking up a garden table (home project) ..... but I did manage to squeeze a little bit of CNC into that. Cheeky little self promotion on the ends!! Might as well post a piccie seeing as it did get a little bit of CNC treatment.....
So I’ve had to get a proper fix and bang out another inlayed end grain chopping board. Really need to punt these out. I’ve got more boards than things to chop! Here’s a pic of the finished article and also a link to a video of me making it. If you’re bored and have 13minutes to spare, check it out. :eagerness:
https://youtu.be/4IbnvBNqFeI
Attachment 29938
Attachment 29939
Just remembered. Never posted the finished world map thingy since I stained it. Here it is.... straight off the Mary Rose! Aaaarrrr!
Attachment 29940
Edit: Apologies- already posted this!
That table's a bit swankyer than the workshop bench I've been making today. Looks good enough to eat your dinner off!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
I wasn't bored but I did have 6.5 minutes to spare so I watched the video at double speed :highly_amused:
Nice detail of how you make them but my wife thought that particular design 'a bit busy' compared to the tree of life one. Though it does show how detailed you can get. I like the press for geting the two parts good and tight.
My combined birthday present for last year (we were a bit too busy for me to chose anything) and this year is a licence for Vectric Vcarve Desktop so I might start catching you up. between that and the UCCNC/AXBB-E combination which should be operational in a week or so the old machine might have something of a rebirth.
Kit
Vectric software is pretty good - I've not used anything else obviously but it is very intuitative and does all I need. You'll get the hang of it super quick.
The press was a Eureka moment for me - I've learned the inlay technique from watching youtube vids..... None of them really show the press, just tapping the plug into the pocket with a hammer. It's only when watching closely after I've had a bit of experience and after the glue up has dried, you can see how much tighter the join is. No way that is just clamps. So I welded up a little press jobbie to really squeeze the parts together. Makes a difference for sure. I did that design early on with just clamps and it was a disaster.
I've had Vectric Vcarve trial for a while and really like it, though I found it necessary to watch the tutorial videos, maybe because I'm so used to how CamBam does things. The clever snap tools are really good for drawing up signs and the like very quickly. I've gone for the Desktop version initially ($500 instead of $1000) which is limited to 600 x 600mm but there's plenty bits I can make within that footprint while I'm getting the hang of it. CamBam is excellent for the engineering type pieces like clock gears etc. but I think Vectric is going to be much easier to use for decorative carving which I want to try.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
The press is clearly working well and leaves all your precious clamps available for what they're best at.
Kit
Another family member commission. Very simple letter cutouts - not really the cnc stuff I like - crap mdf, but looks pretty effective. Idea ripped off one of those funky home wear sites. They are punting these out at £135 each with £20p&p. Recon they can’t make them fast enough. Suppose it’s all down to marketing and the platform and reach you have.
Attachment 29978
He's back! Been busy as hell and neglecting my woodworking. Just made some drawers for the back of my defender as the dog cage was a mere 0.5" too wide to fit between the wheel arches. So another video to bore you to tears! Lost my mind a bit on this face grain inlay - was in end grain mode and made the inlay unnecessarily deep - hey ho
https://youtu.be/d_uLuqviLoM
Steve P who has commented on one of my end grain inlay chopping board videos on Youtube was asking for some info on my settings. He's on this forum so I said I'd post my workflow on here as opposed to a lengthy post on Youtube comments.
I watched tons of the inlay videos, but never found a totally comprehensive tutorial. I just ended up getting a bit of info here and there to work out what was actually going on, refined it a little, then made some stuff up myself!
So, first off get your design and load into Vectric or whatever your using. You'll make the pocket first. Save this as "pocket".
Now mirror this design to flip it and save as "plug". It's important you don't resize any of these 2 designs now.
Go back to your pocket file and run a v carve toolpath. I use a fine tapered ball nosed end mill something like a 0.25mm radius tip with a 5^ side angle. You can also add a clearance tool which will save loads of time. I just use any old end mill, basically as big as I can get away with to remove the bulk of the material. Often this is a mere 2 or 3 mm as otherwise on fine designs, nothing is removed
I cut this pocket to a depth of 8mm in 3 passes. Generic speed and feed for me is 18000rpm and 2000mm/min in the hardwood. Not sure why, but it works fine!
You'll find there are a fair few fuzzies and blocked carvings that need to be faffed and picked out with a blade and air gun
Now for the plug in a contrasting wood. open up your saved plug file and drawer a boundary around the design. This is so when you run the toolpath, this immediate area is hogged out and it also serves to throw the plug cut with a relief inverse to the pocket. That boundary is also for when its finished so you can cut your plug out of the rest of the wood.
Again select v carve toolpath and use the same bits you used on the pocket cut.
Now here is the bit that warped my mind - flat depth and cut depth..... You need to have a glue gap at the base of the mating surfaces. You also need a bit of gap at the top of the mating surface to cut or mill off. Plus this will let you press the 2 parts together without grounding out. I have used 1 mm glue gap and 2 mm top gap. Another part of this mental torture is that you have to use a few set cuts or the machine will not realise where the top of the material is..... God, I'm not explaining this well - so here are my toolpath depths:
first pass 1.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
second pass 4.5mm (d), 2mm (f)
third pass 7mm (d), 2mm (f)
This results in the plug being the inverse of the pocket. Same applies to cleaning this up, pick out the bits and fuzzies with a razor blade.
Check they mate well, then glue up. I use titebond 3, but any pva type glue will probably do. That titebond recons its waterproof and food safe. Plus the yanks love it so it must be good.
Don't go too heavy on the glue, just ensure all parts of the sides of the pocket are covered. don't leave massive pools of glue in the pocket for 2 reasons. Firstly, the glue might not escape and wont let you press the plug in properly. Secondly which is a real bummer, having a load of wet glue sitting there and soaking into the wood causes warping. I've had several boards properly banana on me from having glue saturate the one side straight in the end grain.
Once the pocket and plug are mated, squeeze the life out of them. So many youtubers show them tapping together with a rubber mallet and there is a massive gap between the 2 pieces. Then, Lo and Behold, when they bring the dried piece back into shot to mill flat, the gap is all but gone and the 2 pieces are snug. Took me ages to figure this out but I assumed this must be a hydraulic press although never saw one being used. Clearly a trade secret unless I'm barking up the wrong tree. So I made one as you can see in the youtube video with a bottle jack.
That's pretty much it in my own garbled way. Ask questions if you want or need to. And for the experienced CNCers, please comment on my workflow. I'm a relative amateur who has plucked all of this from youtube videos and fudged my way through trying to interpret what people are doing without them telling me!
Cheers Mark,
Will defo help me when I attempt my 1st Inlay. :hopelessness:
This is a good video that explain the gap in detail.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4VMo9DCzO8
and another by the 'Two old guys'
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WYnO8kSHQ1c
Top Man
Yep - that does a better job than my description. However, I'd like to point out they are face grain inlays. Look great, but as the edges are a very shallow slope, the inlay part is very thin right near the edge and wont stand up to chopping board punishment. Hence the much more acute angle of the bits used to get as near as a vertical edge as possible for end grain inlays.
Those face grain inlays are what I should have done for my Land Rover drawers - no need for such a deep inlay as I did!
Wondered where you'd disappeared too, Jared asked about you the other day and said I'd not seen much of you so you're on my "See if still alive " email list for when I get a spare 10mins... Hence why you haven't had it..:loyal: . . . Nice to see you back at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
Think you got your head around it now lol :) but i Just found this vid on YouTube. This explains the depth of cut in detailQuote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RY0zLv3wcyc&t=1654s
Back once again! I’m not a good forum member am I? So sporadic! But I’ve been busy planning my loft conversion.
Anyhow, I thought I’d try a box joint mini project just to get my eye in for when I need to do something proper.
Used the Aspire box creator gadget and with a little jiggery pokerey it works pretty well. Here is my effort. Looking forward to putting it to decent use rather than a sealed mdf box…. Can’t even burn that on my fire!
https://youtu.be/cdWgKo-65-4
Looking good mate, nice to see you back again.:thumsup:
So, I was looking for a project that didn’t look “too CNC” but mainly used the CNC!…..
So I used the CNC for damn near everything, even when it didn’t warrant it! Christ knows what I’m going to use this for….. CNC bits???
Attachment 30710
Attachment 30711
Or you could build a replica Victorian pharmacy (and make a TV series). Very nice work!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
Ha! Yes…. It is an apothecary cabinet. Maybe I can store those miniature spirits and medicate myself as necessary.
Excellent work as a usual mucker, nice to see you are exploring what the machine can do. Could always throw a few draws away and turn it into an advent calendar....:triumphant:Quote:
Originally Posted by Pilsbury
Its too clean to be a proper workshop. No dust, no clutter. Great looking CNC machine.
Mine has just arrived yesterday Genmitsu 3018 prover. Will put it together this weekend and see how it goes. Planning on using if fro PCB's and making hands for antique clocks.
I’ve been out of my workshop for the best part of 12 months doing my loft conversion. On the home straight now with a mere couple of months to go, so will be back trying to think of a monster project to furnish the new room.
However, a friend is retiring from Fire Control and people wanted a chopping board retirement gift. So thought I’d just “bang one out”. Didn’t quite turn out like that as I felt like I had to relearn a load of stuff being off the machine for so long! I even cut the plug the same as the pocket and not reversed. That was a £20 oak mistake!
Here’s the video - from a CNC perspective, half way through is that. The first part is just the making of the boards.
https://youtu.be/1HYHka0fDis
Back again with a new project. This one took several months due to some near disasters with the electronics side of things….. had it all gone wrong it would have been a few hundred quid down the drain…. I never knew what a “smart table” was until I saw a Russian and a Chinese guy make one…..
https://youtu.be/L82zj9mbCQY
Your bench is a lot tidier than mine. I won't post a photo as i'll probably get arrested for something or other!!
Cheers
Andrew