Ebay Chinese Routers (CNC3040) - anyone purchased one of these machines recently?

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Should still be under warrenty shouldn't it.?? . . Or is that has much use as the spindle.!!

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lol jazz, the list is getting longer by the day!

The Z axis wiring fracture is contagious, mine is just exhibiting identical symptoms.

There`s a cheep Chinese mill FAQ to be started here....
Current small Chinese mill FAQ thoughts ;-)

Out of the box;
Check the connections inside the control box.

( had E-Stop button connected to limit switch header on parallel breakout)

Check the bolts on the frame for loose or stripped threads.

(Stripped thread on carriage bolt, worked loose, no problem space to put bolt in place)

Check the life left on spindle brushes.

(couple of premature spindle failures reported)

Make up 4 core stepper driver and 2 core screened loom for Z- axis and spindle for when the original fails.

(early failures reported)

Cheers
Adam

Todays update, its not Z-Axis wiring , its the Z-axis driver, new loom to z worked for about 3 seconds before the driver chip let the magic smoke out.

Guessing ite because tiny fan only breezes over X Y heatsinks leaving Z to cook itself.

Anyone got a spare TB560AHQ that they could sell, paypal waiting?

Sure you got the wiring right ? Seems funny if it worked intermittently but 3 seconds after you put a new cable on it goes Phut.

Wouldn't be the first time says John S who *has never ever * done this :whistling:

Going to double check wiring and report back , but description of after `repair` action not entirely accurate.

It did same as it was doing , i.e. random reverse of commanded jog, then wirked properly for about 3 seconds before smoking the driver.

If anyone is familiar with the YOO CNC boards , take it green LED is +V supply and red is something to do with step, very flickery red LED on dying board just before smoking.

(edit) Now got a spare on the way thanks to another member :-)

Anyone know where i can obtain the original spindle motor carbon brushes from ? (other than waiting from china)

They are approx 6mm x 3mm x 10mm

Haven`t tried them yet but http://www.solenttools.co.uk stock a wide range of not cheap brushes.

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Originally Posted by Musht

Haven`t tried them yet but http://www.solenttools.co.uk stock a wide range of not cheap brushes.

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Thanks, looking at them this morning, trying to find a camera that works to send them a pic!

Thanks to another member purchased a spare TB IC in the post.

Easiest to remove them by snipping all the pins off the chip , then mop up the solder and pins off the PCB.

Mounting new IC is straightforward, it clips over the board and holds itself inplace whilst soldering.

Unfortunately in this case , didn`t entirely solve the problem, Z fine going down, stalls and whines going up, hmmm

Transfer to Y axis , whines, lack of power.

PCB back under the magnifier, toasted thin ground track from what looks like 1R0 current sense resistor, put wire in from nearest pad to ground pin.

Result, fully working Z axis driver board.

Just one wiring anomoly now, must have reversed ppahses because motor is runnig reversed, up is down and down is up, do I have to get the soldering iron out again or can I reverse it in Mach3?

Cheers
Adam

P.S. Also contacted vendor, who has asked for a picture of the damaged board so that they can send me out the right spare part under warranty, have just repaired in meantime to keep running.

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Originally Posted by Musht

Just one wiring anomoly now, must have reversed ppahses because motor is runnig reversed, up is down and down is up, do I have to get the soldering iron out again or can I reverse it in Mach3?

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Yep go to ports & pins-Motor outputs and change Dir lowactive. So if ticked un-tick or vise versa.

Before I forget yet again, a public thank you to JohnS for the loan of a single speed Kress (he also machined up a collar to make it fit inside the original motor clamp) allowing us to carry on machining!

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Originally Posted by camhguh

Before I forget yet again, a public thank you to JohnS for the loan of a single speed Kress (he also machined up a collar to make it fit inside the original motor clamp) allowing us to carry on machining!

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Aww dispite what every body says about him he's a nice old bugger.!!. .:joker:

Today I've received the replacement spindle from the ebay seller love-happyshopping, it doesn't seem new but at least works, I hope it will last more than the first one... Anyway I'll probably buy a kress spindle.

Just to add to the FAQ ;-)

Spec on the spindle supplied:

https://sites.google.com/site/cncdiyorg/e240-spindle

Cheers
Adam

Well surprise surprise...yet another issue....y axis now misbehaving....similar to z axis problem so guessing that yet another cable needs replacing!! ho hum!


Edit: Yep replaced cable...now running ok again...PITA!!!

can anyone suggest a good, reliable company that sells cnc routers in China?

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Originally Posted by dopamine

can anyone suggest a good, reliable company that sells cnc routers in China?

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No.

Your first post on this forum suggested you want to build your own. Why not? It's the only cheap way to get a good machine.

I thought I'd share a couple pictures of what my eBay CNC3040 was doing today. This was making a pocket in 6061-T6 (heat-treated and artificially aged) aluminium.

Initial go-around.

Attachment 5835

Pocketing
Attachment 5836

Finish looks respectable on the flat, but a little rough on the sides?

Looks like a 2flute HSS cutter? What diameter, spindle speed, feedrate, depth of cut and stepover did you use out of interest?

My machine is currently running cutting a huge aluminium sheet at 780mm/min with an 8mm single flute carbide at 2mm depth of cut. It's been going for hours at that...

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Originally Posted by Tenson

I thought I'd share a couple pictures of what my eBay CNC3040 was doing today.

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I'm amazed that spindle managed that and will be even more amazed if it survive's cutting more than 3 before giving up the ghost.!!

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Originally Posted by Jonathan

My machine is currently running cutting a huge aluminium sheet at 780mm/min with an 8mm single flute carbide at 2mm depth of cut. It's been going for hours at that...

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Don't it break your heart seeing all that expensive Aluminium turn into expensive floor glitter.!!:sorrow:

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Don't it break your heart seeing all that expensive Aluminium turn into expensive floor glitter.!!:sorrow:

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I've estimated it's about 25kg of swarf from this sheet once the 30 hour program has run! Then there's the other side...:numbness:

Its a 2 flute solid carbine 3mm bit from Cutwell. Done very slowly indeed at 65mm/min and 0.5mm cut depth. I think I could have done it at 1mm cut depth for the pocketing, but I didn't want to push it since the cutter already snapped once finding a good speed! I also put some marker points where I need to drill holes; much quicker to make holes with the pillar drill.

Still, the machine ran for about 3 hours no problems :)

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

I'm amazed that spindle managed that and will be even more amazed if it survive's cutting more than 3 before giving up the ghost.!!

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It's done 2... more to go!

The spindle is definitely too low power for this stuff. It was sooo slow. 3 hours to do a 60mm square 8mm deep pocket. Still the motor actually sounds smoother than before.

Sorry to jump in on this thread but i have the 3040 mill how did your machine handle the extra weight of the kress???
becouse i have the small 0.4kW (0.54HP) arc eurotrade highspeed spindle i`m thinking of fitting to mine

I purchased a Chinese machine Tuesday a 1220 x 1220 and I took it back and got a full refund Thursday! My personal advice is do not bother absolute piece of shite !!!!!! Junk . I cut out a 250 mm square from 18mm mdf and it was 1.75 mm out of square . I am going to save a bit more cash and buy a decent uk built one .
Buy cheap buy twice !!!!!

Boovey,
Which one did you buy ?

Gm cnc 1220x1220

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Originally Posted by Philly

I have the 3040 and Im happy with it, it has no problems with Al. Its a brushed motor and its a nice little machine for the price. I'll see if I have any vids of it in action.

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Hi
I'm new to the forum and to CNC. I've just taken delivery of a rather battered CNC3040. Can you tell me if it is normal for the X and Y axis motors to be very stiff to turn by hand. The Z is quite free. I've powered it all up and Z runs fine. The other 2 motors just make a humming noise. I've reconfigured the pins to drive X with known good channel Z but it still won't run. Do I suspect motors, wiring or warped drive chain. I will attempt to get a replacement but am not holding my breath.
Any guidance appreciated.
thanks
John

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Originally Posted by mugginsjm

Hi
I'm new to the forum and to CNC. I've just taken delivery of a rather battered CNC3040. Can you tell me if it is normal for the X and Y axis motors to be very stiff to turn by hand. The Z is quite free. I've powered it all up and Z runs fine. The other 2 motors just make a humming noise. I've reconfigured the pins to drive X with known good channel Z but it still won't run. Do I suspect motors, wiring or warped drive chain. I will attempt to get a replacement but am not holding my breath.
Any guidance appreciated.
thanks
John

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Wouldn't bother with replacement try for a refund and get or build something better.!!

Sounds very much like you have mechanical problems rather than Electrical if other Axis won't move when connected to Z axis drive. Very much doubt it will be dead stepper they are sturdy things and the fact you have 2 non moving Axis makes me think Mechanical.

So I'd start by removing the motors from screws and checking if they spin on there own drives with no load.?
Then work back from there removing ballnuts from the mounts first and spinning screws to see if end bearings are binding or the ballnut it's self has jammed.
It will become obvious whats causing the problem when motors are off.!!

Ballnuts! 1404 trapezoidal screws :rolleyes:

I guessing they might be a wee bit stiff to turn by hand anyway.

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Wouldn't bother with replacement try for a refund and get or build something better.!!

Sounds very much like you have mechanical problems rather than Electrical if other Axis won't move when connected to Z axis drive. Very much doubt it will be dead stepper they are sturdy things and the fact you have 2 non moving Axis makes me think Mechanical.

So I'd start by removing the motors from screws and checking if they spin on there own drives with no load.?
Then work back from there removing ballnuts from the mounts first and spinning screws to see if end bearings are binding or the ballnut it's self has jammed.
It will become obvious whats causing the problem when motors are off.!!

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Hi thanks for the response. My hobbies are woodturning and electronics, with very little mechanical experience. Hence building one is a bit daunting. I did as you suggested and removed the motors. The X motor didn't run but then after re-installing it, it did. Wiring? The Y axis motor (disconnected from drive) would not run at all on any pins, obviously faulty. Is it normal for there to be lateral movement, maybe 2mm when I pull along the X axis by hand.
thanks again
John
PS have asked for refund.

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Originally Posted by ~andy

Ballnuts! 1404 trapezoidal screws :rolleyes:

I guessing they might be a wee bit stiff to turn by hand anyway.

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Ye I knew chances are they would have Trap lead screws but easier to say ballscrew and ballnut has if new to cnc they would probably recognise those terms better than saying Leadnut etc .!! . . . . . . But in any case they should still turn by hand easy enough if Trap Lead screws.

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Originally Posted by mugginsjm

Is it normal for there to be lateral movement, maybe 2mm when I pull along the X axis by hand.
thanks again

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Yes quite normal if it's Knackerd.!! . . . .Which by the sounds then it is.!

There should be NO lateral movement or Slop in any direction on any Axis. You will never cut correctly or with any accuracy if there's movement in any direction. Circles will be Ovals, edges will have steps at start and finish points and generally rubbish finish quality and poor accuracy.

. . Honestly Push hard for the Refund.