NO.
If you are going to throw money at it get the separate drives.
More reliable and if one goes down you can replace it, if one of those Toshiba boards goes down the whole lot is toast.
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NO.
If you are going to throw money at it get the separate drives.
More reliable and if one goes down you can replace it, if one of those Toshiba boards goes down the whole lot is toast.
Hey John I agree those boards are rubbish, what would you suggest he gets remembering his budget?
Rick
lmao.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
.Me
Getting there, thanks to one and all who chimed in with all the info it's greatly appreciated.
Attached is a short run video - I really should get the camera out before I start aye :whistle: anyhoo I'm pretty sure you can pick who it is that's being engraved, all I need to do now is get the probe working i.e. retracting on touch not spinning the motor and twisting the probe cables in to a ball :crushed: The finally motor tuning ended up at 400s 2500a 200v - my initial test of this setup resulted in a 100mm straight line on X and on the Y so with that, WOOHOO although I still need to sort the Z out, time to sit and mind melt over the mach manual
BTW the line art used for this came from my tattoo line art collection a job I did for a few decades before I got bored. . .
So if anyone is looking for anything in regards to line art feel free to let me know, odds are I've probably got something that can be worked on if not exactly what you want.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oENqLPxGsmc
Attachment 8645
Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Like this? 3x M542 CNC Stepper Driver For Nema17 Nema23 Nema34 Motor +5 Axis Breakout Board | eBay if so that'll be a doddle, her who must be obeyed should only hit me two or three times at that money :yahoo: plus that means more money for longer screws etc as I want to build a bigger one now!!
That would certainly do the job and you can also run the steppers at a higher voltage (50v) with those.
Its always nice when you can actually make something, its like light at the end of the tunnel..Im glad you are now getting some good results.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlb1058
Rick
Well done, I knew you would get there - with a little help from your friends! G
If your thinking about building a bigger machine then make sure anything you buy to get this one running can be used again with the new machine, will help keep the cost down plus collect parts for the new one quicker.
Understatement there G - methinks I've come across a damn good site fulla damn good people!!Quote:
Originally Posted by GEOFFREY
Cheers Rick, and thanks for the help - atleast now I can do some of the required math should I need it again :smug:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
Wait till you get the bill !!
if you are going to build another machine you can use that one to make the parts for it!!
If you need any help Just give a hollar and im sure there will be plenty of advice forthcomming.
Down load Google sketchup and start designing.. Its very easy and if you get stuck give me a shout..
Rick
If he does that then he will be rocking and rolling
Payable in Hobnobs? :bi_polo:Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Hey Rick,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
That's the plan, although I'm looking at nothing larger than a 4' x 4' useable area table so I can knock out the occassional guitar. I did read your post on your build log - I don't need anything that large as I still need somewhere to park the FLH and the Hinckley, but it sure as gave me plenty to think about, thankfully I can weld so I was going to construct the framing out of 2" square tube, finding the screws to suit that size. There are some on eBay, but they're too short so I'll keep looking.
I have always had a soft spot for Hinkleys, - Romney Marsh.
Have you given any though about using timing belts as screws ? If not it's often cheaper in the long run to buy off Chia in China and at least you know what you are getting.
Hi Carlb1058
can you help me?
I need to know,what colors are on the resistor.
because mine is burned and can not see anything :(
Thank you
I've just looked at the original huge image but because of the fact colours change a tad on PC monitors they look like the could be a pale blue with dark blue bands or perhaps a blue/grey with dark blue bands. I'll wander out to the shed a little later as we've just gone off daylight saving and it's stoopid o'clock here at the moment and physically check it and let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sobczyk32
Timing Belts? Interesting concept, might have to wander the boards and look for a build log to see how that's achieved, although I would have thought the tensions would be against the use of belts because of the stretch factor?Quote:
Originally Posted by John S
Hi Carl,
Not sure if it's of any interest but I still have the three Yoocnc controller boards I removed from my 6040 when I replaced them with a Gecko G540.
You're welcome to them if you want them. One axis was a little flaky but I never tracked it down due to the controller update.
Drop me a PM if you want them and I'll get them in the mail.
[I was in Sydney but have moved to Tasmania]
God heavens things must be bad if the Ozzies are deporting people nowQuote:
Originally Posted by tumutbound
Tassie was one of the worst penal settlements but they allow people to leave these days - not that anyone wouldQuote:
Originally Posted by John S
Now this statement I must agree with - my younger sister bought a small farm just west of Launceston a few years back and loves the place. Sydney on the other hand of late is nowt more than a script for an LA gang movie and a subset for SOA :disturbed:Quote:
Originally Posted by tumutbound
Appreciate the offer of the Yoo boards, mine has been removed and is currently holding down pieces of paper while I wait on a complete motor bob setup to come in the post, so I'll pass but thanks again anyway..
Well that didn't take long, got my 3 x 542's and new bob ready to get set up but needed to knock out a couple of plaques before I tore it down and spent the next few weeks trying to work the wiring out. On the 2nd plaque it started to double line again so I thought the coupling had come loose, but no I have to be different and snap the bugger on the X axis completely *groan* gets wots ya pays for, now to find new DECENT couplings.
Info and piccies posted here http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/tradin...couplings.html hopefully it's the right board. . .
Replied in that forum but it is the wrong place, only the original poster can post there. Everyone one else doesn't get a post reply button.
Anyway to keep it all in one place here's my reply.
This coupling question often gets asked.
There is only one design of coupling that can handle misalignment in two axis and still work. That is an Oldham coupling.
http://www.mekanizmalar.com/oldham.html
If you were in the UK I'd say Farnell, CPC, RS or Arc
The 2, 3, 4, jaw Lovejoy type couplings whilst being cheap are not zero backlash or able to handle misalignment in both axis.
The type you have I hate with a vengeance and is about as much use as a stick of celery and two hose clips.
REPLACE ALL THE COUPLINGS.
Ta for the info - I'll see what I can find here but not holding me breath!! Oh and seeing how cheap n cheesy this one is I was going to replace all and double up too just in case.
Oh well, while I wait it'll give me time to read the wiring docs for this new setup *shudder*
bonus a local Buy Oldham Style Coupling Hubs Clamp oldham coupler,8mm ID 25mm hub Huco 452H25.28 online from RS for next day delivery. roughly 120 quid for X,Y,Z
Also available at Farnell (Element 14)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlb1058
?????????????????????????
Fück me when we shipped all the crooks out to OZ there was no need to keep all the bastards.
Christ? i paid £3.50 each off fish4parts, good while ago i know but can't believe they go up that much?
I use these cheap jobbies: 8x8mm CNC Motor Jaw Shaft Coupler 8mm To 8mm Flexible Coupling OD 20x26mm # 02 | eBay
even bought a spare set which I haven't had to use :)
ROFL how true - it's easy to get stiffed big time for plenty of different things here and the politicians wonder why people buy stuff O/SQuote:
Originally Posted by John S
Checked a couple of local sites/companies and the prices are pretty similar so either they import container loads (doubt that) or the UK manufacturer sticks it to 'em on wholesale or they're all just twonks in it for the money with a captured market - either way I need something that's not gunna break at the sight of pine :apathy: and I would like to have a go at light aluminium one day too :bi_polo:Quote:
Originally Posted by Swarfing
I was gunna buy arf a dozen of these for emergency's 8mm X 8mm CNC Flexible Jaw Spider Plum Coupling Shaft Coupler D 25mm L30mm | eBayQuote:
Originally Posted by Philly
You could get timing belts and pulleys instead...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
Thanks for the suggestion but I have enough problems getting my 'ead around the machine as is :wink:
Hi all, this is my first post here, I just registered to say I have the same machine with 4 axis I bought from Ebay.
First of, I want to say the value of the resistor is 100 OHMS 1/4 watt to the person that asked, as his was burned out.Attachment 9049Attachment 9050Attachment 9051Attachment 9052
Second. I have the same driver board that drives X Y Z (YOOCNC-NT65-3X) It's a piece of crap. There isn't even any DIP settings for switching micro stepping etc. My fourth axis is actually a YOOCNC also, but is a red PCB and it has the same driver chip "TB6560AHQ" but it has the DIP settings. I had major problems with my X axis with a 0.9mm difference when returned to X=0 Y =0 after milling a doubled sided PCB with small traces for SMT and drill holes etc. So you see 0.9mm loosing steps on the X axis was a critical problem. I'll upload picture of the 4th axis driver board!
The initial problem was the settings when I got the machine first. The manual states "400 / 2000 / 200 / 3 - 1 " all of this is perfect, but the Velocity speed which states 2000. I have mine tuned down to 900 and I am running the Kernel @ 25Khz instead of the Manuals stated 35Khz or on the main BOB the motors stall, loose steps, vibrate etc.
Now I switched the X axis stepper over to the extra board (RED PCB) I was able to set the steps with the DIP settings on the board, and I don't loose steps, the stepper is running really smooth with little to no noise from it at all compared to the other steppers on the main BOB. Y and Z have high pitched sounds coming from them when in use, but now with the new DIP settings on the x axis I can run it @ 2000 in velocity @ 35khz kernel with out loosing steps, vibrations, and the motor just hums nicely.
So to some it up, I am getting rid of this YOOCNC breakout board and replacing them as soon as I have the dosh.
The machine it's self is nice and well worth the money, the controllers are shite !
Here is the one I bought in March I think.
220V CNC 3040Z DQ Upgrade From 3040Z 3040 Router With 230W 11000rpm Spindle | eBay
The CNC gantry system is good. The controllers are bad, and hell, the controllers could even be a clone of the already crappy controllers from YOOCNC.
Questions welcome, and anything else. I just thought I would share my thoughts and frustration and my how I fixed my issues here.
On another note, I am replacing all the boards except the transformer and other simple stuff to a Pokeys 56U + Postep25 motor drivers for Mach3 when I got the dosh.
Polabs
My software for initial use:
Diptrace
Vcarve Pro
Mach3
and shitty YOOCNC controllers, plus all cables leading from controller to steppers are unshielded !
Also I replaced the main CAPS on the BOB to Nichicon LOW ESR just incase. The IC chips (74HC***) should be really 74LS*** so that they can properly use the TTL logic from the parallel ports that don't support 4.5vcc. Some ports on computers actually output 3.3 I think or something in the that line.
Using the LC version means that they will support all types of parallel ports.
regards
I replaced the yoo board with 542H's, actually to save time the only bits used from the original controller box is the E-stop, spindle speed knob and the on n off switch - the machine itself however apart from getting three Oldham couplings, ta v much to whoever it was that suggested them :encouragement: - sorry I can't remember who though *eep* is pretty much as it was out of the box oh and I modded the job clamps.
It's damn near paid for itself already so I'm well pleased with it. I Was gunna go buy three new nema 23's but they have from memory bolt holes that are 41mm <--> the bolt holes on this machine are 50mm <--> so the only way to have spares is to get the nema 34's which in the ad says have the same 50mm bolt holes? but are more expensive!!
Back to confusion again :witless:
If they are 50mm centres then It's got Nema 24 motors on it which are 49.8mm bolt centres where has Nema 23 are 47.14. Nema 24 motors will measure roughly 60mm outer dimensions and Nema23 56.4mm.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carlb1058
Nema 34 are 70mm centre holes. They would also be a big mistake to use with M542 drives and give much lower speeds.