yeah , what was i thinking? my record has 1 to many scratches!
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yeah , what was i thinking? my record has 1 to many scratches!
http://www.rapidonline.com/electroni...apacit-50-4017Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Thanks that clears that up I also bought mine there code 11-2910 @ £1.85 each x 3 =£5.55 but they are discontinued now :livid:. So back to ebay or aliexpress if I need more. ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
cheers for the link Eddie. i was just about to press the go button on this http://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/alumin...itors/0497596/ . i can get the bridge there alsohttp://www.rapidonline.com/electroni...-mb352-47-3226
Have a search online for the caps make sure they are rated to 100v or higher you might be able to find them cheaper is you buy say 4700uf and then double them up Rapid also does the transformer as well 25 - 0 - 25v and wire the coil in series to make 50V ..CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
I would prefer to buy the drivers at Zapp but they have only 1 in stock. i phoned Gary but couldn't get through so i emailed him. Apparently the AM882 are discontinued and replaced with the EM806 which is'' the same or better specification as the AM8802 but a newer product'' . any thoughts on this would be helpful .
this is the psu coil Standard Range Toroidal Transformers- CM0750225- 750VA 230v to 2x25v delivery next friday 20th.
capacitor http---www.rapidonline.com-electroni...apacit-50-4017
bridge rectiferKbpc3502 35a 200v Bridge Rect (mb352) - Rapid Online.
Yes they are slightly better and are affectively same drive just with updated software which allows slightly smoother running motors and less motor heating.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
I've fitted loads of EM806 and If I had choice of AM or EM I'd get the EM everytime.
You don't need 750Va and could getaway with 625Va easily. Going large on the Va will just cause you more hassle with inrush and the extra current it provides you won't use or need.!Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
cheers for the driver info. i had calculated for 5 motors even though i will only use 4 for the time being . the 5 will draw 13.2 amps @70 vdc hence the 750 VA.
The 625 VA delivers 11.90 amps. i hope my calcs are correct! is there a way around the in rush of current?
Yes Don't turn it ON. . . :joker:Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
You can build an inrush circuit using resistors, thermisters etc but I prefer to avoid this and use smallest transformer possible and then use a C or D rated fuse if still trips which I rarely do upto 625va. Can use slow blow fuses as well.
To be honest I very much doubt you'll ever run 5 Motors at same time that pull full amps at same time so I'd still go with 625Va and 12A.
As all 5 motors won't be drawing maximum current at the same time, allowing for around 70% of the total quoted current draw should be plenty.
625 VA it is then ! every day is a day for learning.
so i need 4 drivers EM806 a break out board and a smooth stepper. can anyone recommend a smooth stepper and a breakout board that's compatible with the drivers and where's the best place to purchase ?
Smooth Stepper is the name of a particular motion controller, it's not a generic name. http://www.amadeal.co.uk/acatalog/Pa...cessories.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
There are alternatives to the smooth stepper, have a read here; http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7718-Usb-smooth-stepper some have the breakout board built in I think.
I have the PLCM-E3 motion control & PLC4X-G2 breakout board ordered but they will not be with me until march because of Chinese new year. i am using the time to try and get to grips with the electrics / electronics and hopefully start into the MACH 3 (getting to know you period !!) i know some builders on here do not use bleed resistors to drain the caps from the power supply . i was going to leave the drives drain the caps as suggested on various posts but on second thought said i would at least try and get to understand how it done and maybe use a bleed resistor across the n/c contact of the e/ stop relay to keep to good practice and safety as pointed out. i came across this https://www.digikey.com/document-red...calculator.xls i have a result of 1000 ohms over 35 seconds with initial power at 4.9 watts. OR 1710 ohms for 60 seconds with initial power of 2.8 watts. i don't know if these resistors are viable because i've absolutely no prior experience to work from. maybe they will do or perhaps previous builders use a different spec. i have also updated my electrical dwg to reflect my proposed capacitor bleed arrangement. any feedback on this will once again be greatly appreciated.
I like this better;
Attachment 14708
The way you had it created a short circuit across the 70v DC, only relying on speed of operation of the relay to remove it.
Cheers Eddy, i'll update that . the older i get the more cautious i'm becoming just as well i put it up for a critique. :thumsup:
I'm not sure if I would bother with the relay switching if you are using a reasonably large value of R. Use something like 4K7, 3W, wired directly to the capacitors, and save a relay contact and associated wiring? Probably about the same current draw as three quiescent drivers, so maybe not worth the effort, but it would drain down the caps even if everything else were disconnected during testing. I must stick a meter across my power supply some time and see what happens - I don't have any bleed resistor in place.
Probably not a lot.! Depends how you wired the control box.?Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
If the Drives are kept in the circuit and not removed say thru a relay then they will drain the Caps resonably quickly to within 5V last time I checked.
Not a fan of leaving resistor in all the time as it's creating heat and we want to remove it not make it.!
I agree with this, I tried it and it's amazing how much heat 3 watts can produce, especially in a control panel size box.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Personally, I wouldn't bother with the resistor at all. Seems like unnecessary complication, given three or four drivers draining the caps on power-off. Main use would be draining the caps during testing with nothing else connected, but that's a bit artificial anyway. Heating was why I suggested the value I did, which would only be dissipating a watt or so, but why bother?
Depends on how the control is wired.!Quote:
Originally Posted by Neale
One reason to bother is that when a drive faults or E-stop occurs the motors will continue to rotate for fraction of second until power is drained. No big deal you'd think.!! . . BUT. . it is a big deal with Slaved motors if one drive faults and other doesn't because the one that doesn't fault remains under power until power is drained. The faulted drive removes power and stops rotating so the gantry gets racked every time.
Unless you have the driver fault relays and enable signals integrated into the design, then they all stop together or as close together as possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Initially i was not going to use a resistor because of the drivers draining as pointed out. i've read a lot of posts that discuss this and i know a lot of the experienced`builders don't bother because of the reasons stated. but i will be using a relay in the e/stop circuit anyway and it will have an empty N/C contact available so it's an extra terminal for the resistor and an extra piece of cable to hook it in. i think that's all that's required anyway? if i don't use it i will definitely integrate the fault relays and enable signals as Eddy suggested. on another note my toroidal coil arrived friday. i should have the cap and bridge this week, hopefully. the coil has 3 windings http://www.airlinktransformers.com/c...nge/CM0625225/ the colours are as follows: coil 1 BROWN / BLUE 1.6 ohms
coil 2 BLACK / RED 0.5 ohms
coil 3 YELLOW / ORANGE 0.5 ohms
so i assume from this that the following
Coil 1 = mains supply 230 vac
coil 2 = 25vac
coil 3 = 25vac
and if i join BLACK and YELLOW together power up and meter across RED and ORANGE i should get 50 vac OR 0 vac . a change of the secondary coil arrangement if i read 0 volts. i will try it tomorrow to see.
Recently bought one of the Airlink trafo's. Join black/yellow together and red/orange will give you 50v AC or there about.
Yes and exactly why I said depends on how control is wired.!! . . . Several why's to do same thing. Fact still remains that it's NOT ok if control NOT wired in correct Manner.!Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
i'll have to give that a go. above all the system has to be safe and i would like to use the functionality of what the boards have to offer . the notion of draining the caps as quickly as possible is still worth a shot too because if i have to go into a cabinet with caps holding a charge then i rather go in when they're safe. i'll probably put a cover over the psu to be on the safe side. either way at least the conversations on the blogs really bring it home about the safety and choices available.
i have 4 core 1.5mm sqrd. cy cable on order for the steppers, is there a recommended cable for the spindle?http://2.2KW WATER COOLED SPINDLE MO... OWNING | eBay.
Same cable will work if you have ordered enough. Either don't use one of the cores or use the 4th core for an earth if you want. Personaly I don't bother with earth on spindle and just don't use 4th core.Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
While the cable you have would work, and many people use that I'm sure, if you look in the manuals for 2.2kw drives you will see that 2.5mm^2 is generally recommended.
Also I think it's a good idea to take an earth directly to the spindle because if you have a motor to earth fault a lot of current will flow, if you don't have an earth wire it could flow though the bearings finding a path to earth and this could ruin them. If you were selling these things commercially they would have to meet regulations which most likely also encompass manufacturers recommendations, but if it's for yoursefl then you have to decide how far you want to go.
These spindles only pull at Max 8amps the VFD manual is recommending to cover all bases. 1.5m/2 will easily handle 8A or anything you throw at these spindles. I've embedded my spindle in aluminium many many times pulling many amps stalling the spindle and loading it to the max without any issues using 1.5m/2 cable.Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
The machine should be earthed and adding another earth could create an earth loop and potential problems, it's happened many times before. The VFD is earthed and the shielding should go to the VFD earth point and that is enough. IME.!!
Well fancy that, all you time served people out there, you wasted four years of your life, it seems you didn't need to know all that stuff after all.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Keep your knickers on Eddy wasn't saying your wrong or questioning your knowledge I'm saying 1.5mm is fine with these spindles after fitting many of these spindles without any troubles at all.!!. . Which I can't say about those being earthed at the spindle because I've had a few and seen several instances of people doing this and having ground loop troubles.Quote:
Originally Posted by EddyCurrent
Also 2.5mm doesn't even fit the spindle connector so I doubt they where designed to use 2.5mm.!
my Chinese spindle and vfd arrived today from Portsmouth.the coolant ports as can be seen had fittings previously fitted . i don't know if this is standard practice ( as in testing) or it's second hand spindle and passed on as new. if any one has a previous experience of this i would like to know before i go and contact the seller.
the VFD appears to be new and doesn't have any sings of previous use. Then again what do i know!! i had a read of
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/5814-...HINESE+SPINDLE to try and get to grips with the set up procedure . i'm curious to know if the settings listed in a post by Shinobiwan ( post 6) are still applicable . they are 2 years old but would save some unnecessary manual reading.
Yes this is normal for them to be taken out after testing. They used to leave them in and they often got snapped off in transit, ive had many come like this. If the body was scratched then I'd be suspicous.
The settings Ant (shinobiwan) posted are still the same I believe.
cheers Jazz , I didn't fancy getting into a paper trail with the supplier. the body looks fine , no evidence of a mounting bracket. i had a read of the manual and to be honest it would take another good couple of reads to filter out the stuff when compared to Ants post. i'll still need to go over it once i hook up the bob with spindle control. but at least i have enough info to get me testing the vfd with the spindle. thanks again.
do i need an internet connection to set up the PLCM-E3 OR MACH 3? my garage is a blind spot for a decent signal.
Not for Mach3 but for the PLCM you may need certain windows system programs like DotNet etc to install plug-in and driver etc, depends how upto date your windows is.?Quote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
I think you just download the plugin to a usb stick then you can do it without a internet connection. You might be able to use some homeplug adaptors like these http://www.diy.com/departments/tp-li...150301200758:sQuote:
Originally Posted by PAULRO
Solwise do some good ones and TP link are good. ..Clive
This did the trick , cheers Clive.
my capacitor has a button on top . i couldn't find any info about it .maybe someone here might know.......... i fitted some of the switches ,and a temp control ( cheers Eddie). on the door of the panel and put some crude shelves up for the P.C. I had the fans fitted sucking air out on top .with vents to draw air in at the sides. i then came across a post so i think i'll be changing it about.http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/7831-...SURE+ENCLOSUREi got this in the post ( cheers again Eddie) so the power supply is next to be tackled . so if i mount the coil on a plate and the plate is earthed , will that not in turn earth the bolt holding the coil? will that be enough or will i have to earth the bolt also?