New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

Ah man bad luck! Not sure about a Solid Red LED...... This is from the manual:

12. Protection Functions

To improve reliability, the drive incorporates some built-in protection functions. The AM882 uses
one RED LED to indicate what protection has been activated. The periodic time of RED is 5 s
(seconds), and how many times the RED turns on indicates what protection has been activated.
Because only one protection can be displayed by RED LED, so the drive will decide what error to
display according to their priorities. See the following Protection Indications table for displaying
priorities.

Over-current Protection

Over-current protection will be activated when continuous current exceeds the limit or in case of
short circuit between motor coils or between motor coil and ground, and RED LED will turn on once
within each periodic time (5 s).

Over-voltage Protection

When power supply voltage exceeds 90±1 VDC, protection will be activated and RED LED will
turn on twice within each periodic time (5 s).

Phase Error Protection

Motor power lines wrong & not connected will activate this protection. RED LED will turn on four
times within each periodic time (5 s).

Sensorless Stall Protection

The AM882 can detect the motor stall status using if motor shaft speed is above 300RPM. When the
detection is active, RED LED will blink five times within each periodic time (5s).
Attention: When above protections are active, the motor shaft will be free or the LED will blink.

Hope you dont have to replace it

One easy way to discharge a capacitor is to cross the two cap legs with a screwdriver that has an insulated handle, prior to do that you must remove the plug from the wall. Another way is to connect a consumption at the capacitor leads, like a resistance or even a light bulb, prefer the light bulbs with the wire inside no the neon light or led.
If you want to measure a capacitor and you do not have a capacitance meter, but you have a voltmeter,first disconnect at least one of the cap legs,then put the multi meter at resistance measurement place the leads of the meter on the leads of the capacitor and see the resistance measurement at the meter screen rise until it shows infinity , this gives you an idea that the cap is ok if ohms start to rise and then stop at a low indication the capacitor is grounded. Other way is to place a 9volt battery at the cap leads and then measure the voltage with your voltmeter, if the voltage drops rapidly this shows a bad cap.For

The pic shows a block with the red wires connected but to my eyes the black wires are not connected as one of them appears to be in the wrong connector.

shorting the output of the PS with an amp meter would probably wreck the meter.

I doubt you have blown the caps or the rectifier. If you want to discharge them put a small value resister across the caps temporally like 220 ohms or a mains light bulb across them.

put your meter on the AC range and check the voltage on the input and output of the transformer.

Have you checked the fuse on the input?

Lets see a good pic of the PS

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AlexDoran

Ah man bad luck! Not sure about a Solid Red LED...... This is from the manual:

12. Protection Functions

To improve reliability, the drive incorporates some built-in protection functions. The AM882 uses
one RED LED to indicate what protection has been activated. The periodic time of RED is 5 s
(seconds), and how many times the RED turns on indicates what protection has been activated.
Because only one protection can be displayed by RED LED, so the drive will decide what error to
display according to their priorities. See the following Protection Indications table for displaying
priorities.

Over-current Protection

Over-current protection will be activated when continuous current exceeds the limit or in case of
short circuit between motor coils or between motor coil and ground, and RED LED will turn on once
within each periodic time (5 s).

Over-voltage Protection

When power supply voltage exceeds 90±1 VDC, protection will be activated and RED LED will
turn on twice within each periodic time (5 s).

Phase Error Protection

Motor power lines wrong & not connected will activate this protection. RED LED will turn on four
times within each periodic time (5 s).

Sensorless Stall Protection

The AM882 can detect the motor stall status using if motor shaft speed is above 300RPM. When the
detection is active, RED LED will blink five times within each periodic time (5s).
Attention: When above protections are active, the motor shaft will be free or the LED will blink.

Hope you dont have to replace it

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Yeah my flashing red lights were the nema phases wired wrong which was nice it told me, going to go back to test the drivers in a minute one by one, forgot I've got a 24v PSU which will power the AM882's up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

The pic shows a block with the red wires connected but to my eyes the black wires are not connected as one of them appears to be in the wrong connector.

shorting the output of the PS with an amp meter would probably wreck the meter.

I doubt you have blown the caps or the rectifier. If you want to discharge them put a small value resister across the caps temporally like 220 ohms or a mains light bulb across them.

put your meter on the AC range and check the voltage on the input and output of the transformer.

Have you checked the fuse on the input?

Lets see a good pic of the PS

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I thought that too but i think its just an illusion lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Yeah my flashing red lights were the nema phases wired wrong which was nice it told me, going to go back to test the drivers in a minute one by one, forgot I've got a 24v PSU which will power the AM882's up.

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Why don't you just fault find your main PS after all you will need it.

Right going back to check it out in a minute, will get some pics.

The probe on my meter was black and the spark was large it was only a £5 meter as well and still seems to work fine. I have the PSU wire to a junction box I tested the power at the junction box a steady 247 volts.

Not good, I pulled the PSU out tested the capacitors they read 45v I discharged them with a light bulb setup. Then tested unplugged the capacitors from the recitifer and turned it back on and tested the output of the transformer diddly squat. There's 240v going in but nothing coming out.

I tripled checked the soldering whilst not neat there's no shorts and it's all on very tightly no possibility of loose connection.

Tomorrow I will test each coil individually but I have no hope.

My AM882's turned on with the 24v but one of them is still permanently red led so I think that will need replacing.

It's just a disaster!

I was looking forward to it moving tomorrow now at best I can get the PC to talk to the machine and move the gantry and the Z axis on 24v only, one at a time.

Attachment 23165

Not sure why it went bang which puts me off buying another one and if it had anything to do with malfunctioning AM882.

The only way I'm going to get this cutting before January is if I buy a cheap stepper driver to replace the AM882 for now no way I can afford both the AM882 and transformer before Xmas.

Can't see there being much warranty on the transformer and looking at the listing for the AM882 I might as well forget it.

I did have the wires going to the output on terminals but cut them off just make sure was good connection hence the bare wires going in now.

Quote:

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Not good, I pulled the PSU out tested the capacitors they read 45v I discharged them with a light bulb setup. Then tested unplugged the capacitors from the recitifer and turned it back on and tested the output of the transformer diddly squat. There's 240v going in but nothing coming out.

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Well that shows the caps are OK.
Now check to see if you have continuity between each winding pair on the transformer after you have disconnected it fro the rectifier
I doubt the AM882 has blown the transformer. Did you have it working at one time or is this the first time you powered it up

Hi, right I have continuity on only 3 of the 4 coils one of the primaries has no continuity I assume this means thhe thermal fuse blew and I'm pretty screwed. Going to get another multimeter to test it with to be sure but not looking good.