Where to buy spindle

Hi Jazz,

That is an interesting thought, but I intend the use the capabilities of the cnc as well actually quite a bit including 3d roughing and as mentioned earlier would like to add a 4th axes later if this works out alright.

Here are a couple of pictures of similar machines that I have used as reference. The one on the picture is a rack and pinion system and has been working for the past 9 years generally for about 6 hours a day. And it has a surprising setup that blew my mind and in a way made me confident in my design. It has only three HIWIN blocks on the y and also just three on the z. On the Y there are 2 on the front and one on the top and on the z two on one side and one on the other :)

I do a lot of logos in ice which would be done with the cnc. At the moment I do them by hand and it was ok until now, but now that I know that I am designing a cnc I cant stop thinking about how easy it would be :)
Attachment 13155 Attachment 13156

Thanks again for the great advice.

Cheers,
Vass

Ahh ok well you do need CNC then. . Lol

Something I was going to suggest regards the design was moving the top rail onto top of gantry beam and using the bearing plate to support the rear plate due to it's height and I see they have done this on this machine. This would be a good design change and if you notice they have triangle plates supporting the tall back plate which will resonate while cutting. Now surface finish won't be an issue for you but anything that resonates for long enough is going to have a negative affect on components etc so reducing it doesn't hurt.

I will definitely consider the triangle plates as my z is higher hence I have the two beams. Mine is higher because I dont want the removable front plate to preposition the spindle all the time when I want to work an a thinner sheet of ice.
I have been thinking of placing one of the rails on the top, but It seems to me that it would be a lot harder to get them parallel, but steel I think that is the right way to go and will do a redesign on that.
Just to give you an idea of what they have got away with on the machine pictured earlier the gantry beam is a 150 x 110 aluminum box section, held by 100 x 50 x 3 aluminum box sections (the vertical bits and bottom bits) and the side plates and z axes plates are 13mm aluminum plates. This hopefully gives you a better idea of what forces are needed for Ice.

Thanks again

Quote:

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Originally Posted by HipoPapi

This hopefully gives you a better idea of what forces are needed for Ice

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To be honest I would imagine the forces are a bit less than cutting soft woods so your design is well upto the job.
Personally given your relatively light needs then I would use HD Aluminium profile for the gantry beams and make life very easy for your self. The profile makes fitting rails very easy and accurate, if combined with Aluminium plate for the gantry sides that is manipulated in a certain way then it's very accurate and strong.
Steel is great when mass strength is needed but there is alot of work involved in building with it and getting accurecy. The combination of steel for the base for cost saving and strength but with the ease of building an accurate but still strong gantry with profile/plate is the route I would be taking.

Hi Vass, what servos you are looking at? You said 750w and 400w but what exactly ? The BOB then? Do you have updated drawings yet?

Hi Silyavski,

those are the servos:

http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...rvo-motor.html

http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...rvo-motor.html

the drivers:

http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...vo-driver.html

Controller:

http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/elec...vo-driver.html

Power:

http://www.zappautomation.co.uk/2902...er-supply.html

Thanks,
Vass

Hi There,

I have managed to do some work on the servo mounts yesterday and thought I ask for opinions. I have tried to make it simple and easy to build.

The orangebits are 10mm steel.

24 t pulley on the servo and 48 t pulley on the ballscrew. The bigger pulley in the picture is the 72 t pulley if I want to go with 3:1 reduction.

Opinions would be great as I am planning to send the final drowings for laser cut sunday night as the place where I do my laser cutting switches to thick metals on monday and tuesdays.

O and how much extra space is advisable for the paint layer? 1mm maybe?


Thanks,
Vass

Just a quick point how about making the slots in the motor mounts longer to enable you to be able to change the pulley size if needed later. ..Clive

Thanks Clive,
That is a good point as that way I might have to only change the pulley and keep the same belt. Or simply I would have a lot more options in the future.

Thanks,
Vass

Or I could drill for extra holes in the back plate and have the option to mount it lower if needed.