looks interesting, cheers phil ill do some researchQuote:
PoKeys55
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looks interesting, cheers phil ill do some researchQuote:
PoKeys55
I'm definitely interested - those ratings should make it pretty indestructable! Do you have a datasheet or something for them? Is it sensored or sensorless?Quote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
Hehe, I hope so - just spent £274 on linear bearings and ballscrew so I've not got much money left!Quote:
Originally Posted by HiltonSteve
P.S. I vaguely recall you posting about these before..?
That does look good, but very expensive compared to PCI parallel port card on eBay for £3.52.Quote:
PoKeys
Mark, I don't know how much control the software you are using allows but one thought on conjuring up a second X home switch is to mount a single switch on the Z axis such that it 'makes' against an edge at the 'home' end of the table.
Drive the Z to the far left and you have a 'home' for the left X screw, drive the head to the right and you have a 'home' for the right screw. Not ideal for the final design perhaps but it certainly gives you some way of tracking the racking while messing around :)
Jonathan while it is correct that you can buy cheap PCI Parallel Port cards on Ebay they don't all work with Mach3 some don't have the option of using pins (2-9) for input or output. The PoKeys has dedicated drivers for Mach3 it even has a sub forum on the Mach3 support site.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonathan
A bit like comparing a Tata Nano against a Ferrari they both have four wheels, one is a lot more expensive which one would you prefer. ?
Phil
Just a quick question ... Any idea if it works with EMC2??
If you are talking about the PoKeys in theory yes as it is classed as a standard USB device.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wobblybootie
But it would need someone to build the the driver whatever and i am not that person, the EMC2 has other options that mean the best guys do not want to bother and Boris the seller of the Pokeys doesn't have the desire either sadly as i have already asked him.
Phil
Cheers Phil, I know a EMC guru ... next time I catch him back in the UK I will ask him ... could be an interesting exercise ...
I have had a good look at EMC2, being a guru is a minimum requirement. LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by Wobblybootie
I am on the mailing list, i think they talk Klingon, goes way over my head.
Phil
Same here ... that's why having a guru around is useful, that is if only he would stay in one country for long enough to have a conversation!!
think ill go for the nano, i can afford it :smile:Quote:
Tata Nano against a Ferrari
iv weighed up all your posts and its all getting a bit rocket science so im going for the simple and cheap option
iv orders a pci ribbon extender and a pci parallel port, i should be able to sneak under my graphics card with that
all that for one more input :wink:
Mark list all your inputs and how you are using currently using them.
Phil
off the top of my head..... mach setup is saying iv 4 inputs i can use... that would have been fine if i didnt have the slaved x axis
i need one for E-stop two for Z home one for Y home and one for Z home
i know there are other exotic ways of running switches parrallel/series etc but i woul like my "home" away from the extream edeges of my machine so i can easily keep an eye on lost steps
im assuming another port will give me another 9 inputs ???? cant remember,,,, my brain is melting :)
Not true guys? if you want compatibility out of a cheap card they say go for one using 'NetMos' driver chips onboard. I bought a second card that cost less than a tenner and it works with EMC2 fine and others have reported this chip to work well with Mach3 also. I used the details here http://wiki.linuxcnc.org/cgi-bin/emcinfo.pl?NetMos to help me decide which card to buy and Linux picked it up no problem. You have to specify the address in the config file and it was this guy off Ebay i got the card i used from http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/fullspeedit.
Doh just realised i was replying to the previous page on this thread. Oh well
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PCI-IEEE-1284-...item43a1c7cfa1
to late now, its orderd
ill find out soon enough :)
i might wire up without a Z home for now and add it when i can
Hi Mark just read ball the thread,very interesting I use a 650kv outrunnnermotor on a mill with a 80 amp speed controller, servo tester and a 15volt psu supplly. I have run it on mach3 to cut some small bearing pockets taking a 1mm cut with a 6mm cutter Ihave not had any problems with heat build up. I have fitted a fan on top of the speed controller bolted to the main frame of the mill.
Tony
hahaha!!! that must have took some doing :)Quote:
Hi Mark just read all the thread
i dont have any heat trouble with the larger two motors, its the tiny 4000kv spindle thats giving the bearings im using a hard time m250cnc(phil) thinks it may help if i run them in bit by bit not alowing them to over heat or trying lighter grease, ill give those a try when i find the time
thank god somone has a rc brushless motor spindle working for them, loads of people seem to have a go at building them but iv had no reports of any useful results untill yours, are you running it 1:1 or are you on pullys and belts??
Hi Mark I use a Arceuro ER16 which is 1:1, the motor is actualy a 800kv have loaded a photo
Tony
Splendid!!! 1000w (ish) ??
i might need to fit a fan to my esc, it gets to hot to touch now and again
are you not finding the 800kv a bit quick to cut aluminium?
I use good quality aluminium and spray a small amount of WD40 to lubricate.
iv now got a problem with my machine tripping the power
iv got 1 12v power supply 1 24v power supply and one pc power supply
they all work fine when i wire them up individualy
when installed together in my machine more often than not when i hit the on switch everything tripps
a mate of mine said i may have an earth leak (somthing to do with the diffrent power supplies interacting) and the breaker is seeing this as a fault
has anyone any ideas how i might get around this ????
Could it be the initial surge when you switch it on? Can you switch each power supply on individually? The lights in my workshop dim briefly when I switch my steppers on.
i was hoping id missed somthing simple... ill give that a try jonathan
its really holding the job up now and i want to get started cutting things to bits :)
Is it a current trip or an earth leakage one?
i cant be 100% sure i share a house with ten other people and the breaker is in somone elses part of the house (i dont want them sussing it me that keeps blowing the power ill get the shit kicked out of me :)Quote:
Is it a current trip or an earth leakage one?
im pretty sure its an earth leak because of the three switching power supplies (all of them will be leaking a bit i guess)
i was thinking ill get a cumalative spike as they all come on at the same time
i have had the thing running and all seems well, it only trips when i power up
Hmm, separating the switch on times sounds your best bet then - at least it's a fairly easy one to try.
You could try putting a lower current rating RCD and or breaker between it and the fuse board to reduce your chances of injury (flat mate induced, not electrical) but I suppose they'd need to be faster reacting to be sure they tripped in advance of the main one...
hahha!!Quote:
flat mate induced
yep, id give it a go if a knew it would trip before the main one
i need to take it off the surge protector as well, iv read they leak as well
Are switching live and neutral, or just live?
I know that VFD's are prone to tripping RCDs if you switch both on at the same time, and given that VFDs are basically a very fancy switch mode power supply...
Slightly off topic but that reminds me...my router had a switch in it which switched both live and neutral. Is it safe to connect the neutral permanently and have the live on a relay (solid state)?Quote:
Originally Posted by m_c
If you think about it ... the mains plug only switches the live, the neutral is unswitched. you can happily feed through the relay. Solid State relays are prone to not switching off though. I use a 4PDT relay with all 4 poles switching the current. I was concerned with the inductive load of the router causing contact burn with just one pole. my 1020W motor is capable of drawing over 4 amps on load, I lacked confidence that my relay contacts were up to that :-)
Thanks for clarifying that. I got a SSR as I thought solid state generally means more reliable. It's not a huge issue if the spindle doesn't turn off I don't think since I'll have a normal switch nearby on the mains in addition to the relay. It's a 25 amp relay.Quote:
Originally Posted by templecorran
interestingQuote:
Are switching live and neutral, or just live?
im using a cheap 16A switch to switch both live and neutral... are you saying i should be useing a relay and only switching the live ? ill comence experimentations when its not so dark
iv bought a plug in rcd adapter so hopefully it will win the race against the main one and save my house mates missing flash gordon on the telly :)
ok i removed the surge protector, ran the neutral passed the power switch and bought a rcd adapter
no joy :(
tripped the building out a couple more times (house mates cursing and growling)
stripped the whole thing down looking for a short
i managed to norrow the problem down to some kind of interaction betwean my 24v supply and the driver board
took them over to my girlfreinds house, tripped her power out a dosen times before i twigged than one of the brass risers i was using to mount my driver board to the power supply was reaching through the supply case and touching the top of one of the large caps in there
FFF***nvpkdjsdkcning Hell!!!!!!
thats what i get for being lazy and not making sure they were clear... three days with my thumb up my arse!
ill have to keep my fingers crossed that i havnt damaged the board
glad you found the prob mark on wards and up :)
its a bit scruffy at the mo but it is working well :)
Attachment 3570
iv been looking at ways of clamping work to the bed without drilling and taping hundreds of blind holes that will inevatably clog with shit
im thinking i will drill and tap some choice holes as and when things develop
i may have a job with a hundred or so small control panles to engrave so iv been looking at ways to clamp easily and with repeatability
Attachment 3573
20mm o/d o-ring with 0.34mm protruding above face
Attachment 3571
one way valve
Attachment 3572
one way valve holding the vacuum,, at 20mm O/D it only just holds onto this alli plate
Attachment 3574
35mm o/d o-ring 0.3mm protruding above the face
Attachment 3575
valve holding the vacuum
Attachment 3576
takes quite a bit of effort to get this one to pull off
i left it stuck there like that for an hour and i had to give it a good pull to get it off, i wouldnt trust it to hold while on the cnc but it gives a good indication of how well the valve holds the vacuum
very simple and cheap to make in any size , im looking at machining both sides and just placing them between my bed and work peice out of the way of the cut
once iv proven the cocept i may use a peristatic pump (nice and quiet) to pull the vacuum
iv also orderd some transparent valves so i can see which modules are failing to seal
cant see it not working at least for engraving :)
Mark
Another tip is double sided tape for your application.
Phil
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
hi philQuote:
Originally Posted by M250cnc
sounds messy and not quite as elegent for 100+ pices ... iv used bu-tac before now for engraving :) worked ok
It's only messy if you machine through the tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by blackburn mark
It is the number one method used for holding down small flat thin components.
Carpet tape is the best type.
Phil
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
:eek:Quote:
It is the number one method
well maybe i can change all that nonsense lol
Well I've never heard of that method. You must like doing things the hard way lolQuote:
Originally Posted by blackburn mark
Phil
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk