3 Axis CNC router

Hello. I have decided to catalogue some of the build logs i have found inspirational over the last couple of years in a place where I can find them easily !! Not an exhaustive list but if you are building then take a look at these... Please add to the list if there are others you have found useful. There is nothing like reading build logs to keep you going with (and changing!) your own build so Cheers to all of you for posting them!

Adcnc's build log

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry...tempt-cnc.html

Jazz turns the beast on its side!

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=28039

Michael's build

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry...machine-4.html

Bruce's build

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=37447

HiltonSteve first build log I read on mycnc I think

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17636

Jonathan's first build inc. rotating ballnuts

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19278

Matt (aka creaky)'s build

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42976

Matt's second super-fast build

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=48953

Jonathan's "sufficiently strong machine !" (Needs no intro)

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=49294

Adil - one to watch...

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=42635

Silyavski - one to watch...

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/showpost.php?p=54769

EddyCurrent - one to watch...

http://www.mycncuk.com/forums/gantry-router-build-logs/6565-ready-steady-eddy.html

Oh and another leg done.Attachment 11565Attachment 11566

Garage finally free of bits of bathroom, so I decide to get the big sheet of steel I've got for welding on up onto my bench. I added a couple of extra legs for extra support, managed to get the thing up onto 3 bricks, but my 1st and only attempt to lift it onto the bench did not go well! Think I need some friends!!Attachment 12355

Take two!Attachment 12359

Attachment 12411 polished up and vice mounted!

Attachment 12412 nice legs!

I have just realised that I started this build log just over two years ago and I still have not finished the frame! I knew it was going to be slow going but I had not appreciated the time it takes to build one of these things. So anyone with a busy job and young family just starting out on a project like mine... Don't expect to have it done in a couple if months!!! Pretty much everything I have had to learn from scratch and it has been a lot of fun so far so please don't let me put you off. Just taking a LONG time!

I started mine in 2010 and have only just got the frame welded up so you're doing better than me!!!

Attachment 13528 Attachment 13529
Attachment 13531

Making some progress on the frame. Welding at long last!

And another distraction! There goes the money saved for the next batch of parts... Attachment 13532 fun though!

Ohh, looks like a classic Drummond model B circa 1920. What's the condition like?

Sure is! Pretty good condition, bed ok, spindle running true so I think bearings are ok. Looks like the back gear has experienced some pretty severe torque at some point as there is a broken tooth on the gear /corresponding broken tooth on the spindle and a twisted back-gear shaft. So my first project is going to be to make a new one, figure one missing tooth should be ok but spares are pretty easy to come by if i need them. I have an m type topside coming too with a Norman toolpost. The original topslide has had a bit of a dodgy welded repair job on the ways which was bothering me! All in all pleased with it for a first lathe and I love the look of it with it's curved headstock brace...

Well the model B was never sold commercially, they were all intended for the Navy to be used on-board ships, but often unused ones found their way out :) so they can often be in good nick. The overarm bracing does look cool but doesn't really do much for the headstock stiffness.

Gears are 14DP 14.5° so can be found quite easily. Did you get a full set of change wheels inc the 63tooth to do metric screw cutting?

What's the centres distance? It looks quite long.

I will try and remember to have a look tomorrow Irving - just come in from another session welding and can't be bothered to get cold again!Attachment 13547

Attachment 13878

Further frame progress - pretty well tacked up now. I will take it apart into sections to fully weld the joints and add the gussets. This was one of the reasons for bolting large sections together - it avoids too many awkward welding positions...

Joe that looks like a work of art :D

Nice work Joe!..... wana do an 8x4 lol

I really do! But it has taken nearly 18months to get this far so......

Oh I see, Oh well guess i will have to dig deep and find some patients ha *Subscribed!

Attachment 14684Attachment 14685 frame painted up. Needs X rail support beams next then frame is done.

Looking good Joe!

Attachment 14872Attachment 14873

:)

That looks great - very sturdy and neat. Great stuff. G.

Looking Good Joe but your gonner need more room buddy.!! . . . . It's good as well you have a before and after shot of how clean the room looks because it never look like that again after those chips start flying. . .Lol . . . . Get cracking need to See Video movement next.!!!

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Originally Posted by JAZZCNC

Looking Good Joe but your gonner need more room buddy.!! . . . . It's good as well you have a before and after shot of how clean the room looks because it never look like that again after those chips start flying. . .Lol . . . . Get cracking need to See Video movement next.!!!

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I know! Space is tight and I have to try and keep it clear as our freezers in the garage and the rest of the family object to aluminium chips in their feet for some reason?!
It is taking an age but slow and steady it will be finished eventually!!! Cheers guys.

Looking good Joe, keep it slow and steady that way you'll not make any mistakes!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by njhussey

Looking good Joe, keep it slow and steady that way you'll not make any mistakes!

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I don't know - think I just make them more slowly!!

http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=15577&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=15578&stc=1http://www.mycncuk.com/attachment.ph...id=15579&stc=1Some stills from my updated model...

Hi Joe,

Coming together nicely now. Is there any reason on the gantry for putting the X axis bearings out the back and the spindle hanging out the front? Normally you would put a bearing near the spindle axis to give more support. Do you need to cut right over the edge of the machine?

Not saying it won't work as drawn because it will, just that it could be a little better if there was no reason for the bearings positioning as drawn.

The reason was clashes in fixings. I am going to make some changes to that area anyway to bring the ball screw mounts to the outside of the gantry sides, so I'll try and take on your advice too... Cheers

Looks a very nice setup..
I am interested in a similar style'll of machine capable after taking an 8*4 sheet material....would be gratefully for some advice on material suppliers ,like aluminium extrusion and bearing guides ect.

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Originally Posted by voyager1972

Looks a very nice setup..
I am interested in a similar style'll of machine capable after taking an 8*4 sheet material....would be gratefully for some advice on material suppliers ,like aluminium extrusion and bearing guides ect.

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Apologies for the late reply - bearings and rails BST Automation in China. ( Aliexpress) aluminium extrusion Motodis (Germany) ball screws Chai (eBay) steel from a local merchant...

https://vimeo.com/138142743
Has anyone come across this issue and know what is causing it. One of my carriages is very juddery and stiff - particularly in one direction...

I had that problem on one of mine when I dropped my balls....have you taken it off and looked to see if they're all there? Not sure why it affects one direction more than another....plenty of grease in it?

I should add that the seller I bought them off is sending a new one so not too worried - just wondered. Yes all greased up and no dropped balls!!

Not sure how many balls there should be in there to be honest.

In case anyone is looking for help fixing two pieces of extrusion together... Attachment 16059Attachment 16059 10mm transfer punch to mark then centre punch to get holes centred. Attachment 16060 insert 10x25mm aluminium and shimAttachment 16061 (not the traditional Guinness I know!) Attachment 16062Attachment 16063 drill holes on the drill press Attachment 16065put it all together! Attachment 16066Attachment 16067Attachment 16068Attachment 16069Attachment 16070

Almost finished jig for router-milling the gantry ends...Attachment 16088Attachment 16089

Sorry for the high-jack but I've been wondering about best gantry geometry recently. I half remember a thread comparing some different alignments with simulation of force in various directions. Do I remember right? I kind of remember this 'L' shape being best, but I'd like to re-cap.

It depends who you listen to! This method got my vote. But some people like to sandwich the ball screw between two sections of extrusion to bring the screw closer to the stuff it's moving. I like the fact the this method protects the screw somewhat. Very strong from what I can tell!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tenson

Sorry for the high-jack but I've been wondering about best gantry geometry recently. I half remember a thread comparing some different alignments with simulation of force in various directions. Do I remember right? I kind of remember this 'L' shape being best, but I'd like to re-cap.

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Not sure about the Simulation thing but I can tell you from experience having built many many machines using this "L" design it works perfectly for Wood routers and is very stiff.!
If your wanting semi milling machine stiffness then you'll maybe want to go with something a little stiffer and heavier. But for wood routers and light Aluminium work then it's plenty strong enough.!

Thanks Jazz, I was not thinking so much about the specific build as the geometry. You could put those two sections in a kind of '=' alignment or the 'L' shape used here. The first is probably better to resist front to back force but the second will perhaps have a better mix of up/down and front/back strength. If I built mine again I'd use large and thick steel section with end plates to affix.

I've also been thinking about best placement of the X axis (sideways) rails. I mean say (for sake of simplicity) you had a square gantry section. You could put rails on the top and bottom so they are opposing but then you need to create the Z axis as a kind of box to wrap around the gantry. The joints in that 'box' will be a point of weakness. On the other hand you could place the rails on the front face of the gantry and the Z axis plate can attach directly. Which is better? If you have great rails and bearings with zero play I imagine the second option, but no rails are perfect.

This will help explain what I mean, I hope.

http://s10.postimg.cc/bf8hrlxm1/Gantry.jpg
This would make building CNC machines easier! - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pevgkx69j8o