yes machine is already setup to just do that, as I mentioned speed is fine, motor stalls If I increase acceleration to higher than .5m/s^2 rangeQuote:
Originally Posted by CharlieRam
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yes machine is already setup to just do that, as I mentioned speed is fine, motor stalls If I increase acceleration to higher than .5m/s^2 rangeQuote:
Originally Posted by CharlieRam
But because the motor is spinning faster it will have less torque than the same motors in the other axis
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thanks that makes sense! but makes me sad hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by CharlieRam
If you take the belt off the Z-axis and give it a slight push, does it start moving down by itself due to gravity? If not then your ballscrew and or rails may not be aligned well.Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplace
To increase the acceleration capability the easiest way is to change the drive ratio. Make the pulley on the Z ballscrew larger, or the motor pulley smaller. The torque required for acceleration is proportional to the inertia reflected to the motor. This inertia scales with the drive ratio squared, so if you make the ballscrew pulley half the size, the motor will see about 1/4 of the inertia as before and the torque goes down by the same ratio. It's not quite as good as that as the larger diameter pulley will have a higher inertia, but you'll also reduce the torque required due to friction and lifting the axis (though that is already small).
Once you think the motor tuning is correct, I recommend running random g-code rapid moves for say half an hour, as that will stress the system to give confidence that the machine will not stall. I've made a spreadsheet here to do it:
http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/5843-...g-motor-tuning
Guys quick question, filling up the steel tubes, is it worth it? can I use normal concrete for that? any disadvantages?
I think kiln dried sand (as used for block paving) is the preferred thing to fill with for resonance. That way if you put bungs in you can empty it should you wish to move the machine...
What's in Concrete that doesn't mix well with Steel.?? . . . Neil's suggestion is spot on and yes it's worth it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplace
Neil is correct, problem with creat is it can become brittle and brake up/crack, when that happens you end up with "lose" in your tubes and so on.
We used to call it silver sand back in my paving/block driveway days, think there is a difference between it and kiln dried, silver being a finer grade as it needs to work it's way into all the joints on the blocks.
.Me
Umm are you talking about water? :pQuote:
Originally Posted by JAZZCNC
Quote:
Originally Posted by Noplace
When the steel is in something without oxygen there is no problem rusting. Otherwise all the bridges will fall down.
As for the cracks cement for table tops or for workshop floors, it has additives, polymers, not to change size or crack
I see epoxy granite is mentioned a lot also online, what do you think of it? also do you have an example of a cement product for table tops/workshop floors so that I can check locally whats available?Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
EDIT: also what about UHPC, I highly prefer something that would be permanent instead of grain/sand structure that's why I'm asking about these options instead. thanks!
Yes but the steel in bridges is normally reinforcing and therefore encased in concrete so no air can get to it, if done properly that is! Here we're talking about encasing concrete with steel, there's got to be a hole in to pour the concrete (and for air to escape) and therefore there's a way for air to get in. Now if you could pour it in a vacuum......Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
Different ball game and the steel is coated and protected before concrete is poured. The steel is also encased in concrete not the other way around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyan Silyavski
...or the bridge is built from Cor-Ten steel which is allowed to weather and build up a rust-based patina that coats the surface and prevents further corrosion. Not many routers built of that, though!
Hi all, some updates, most of my free time these past months I spent on cosmetics, reassembling, cable management etc and putting the enclosure since I moved to a new room which is dedicated for this machine.
here is a photo of the machine and some acrylic cuts which were the first actual project which I made for a friend of mine.
Attachment 18247Attachment 18248
Today I tried to face an aluminum plate ( looks funny I know, all I have at the moment hehe ) which I intend on using as a fixture for metal works. this is 6000RPM and 2 flute 1/2 cutter with 1200mm/min feed , based on sound please let me know your opinion and if you have recommended settings, I tried a fly cutter before and the results werent as smooth as this endmill. does mach3 have a wizard to generate facing operation G-code, would save me time instead of manually entering G1 commands hehe while holding the camera
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oOFpzDmQaKU
All in all I'm satisfied and feel fortunate to have learned what I needed to accomplish this, but I wish if I could go back in time and design a better machine with automatic tool changing. wish I had formal education in mechanical engineering and machining so I could achieve better accuracy in the design,machining parts and assembly. but alas I guess that could be a future project.
Great machine!
What about that. Or second, if you don't feel like digging 9mm into aluminum but just 3mm
Attachment 18251Attachment 18252
PS. With a strong cooling i mean
wow that looks aggresive, never imagined I would attempt it at this high RPM! thanks I will give it a shot with the flood coolant
last year I bought this indexable cutter http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/cgi-bin/ss...2309&NOLOGIN=1
and just tried it and its giving a much better finish, downloaded HSMAdvisor trial and for this cutter its giving me low RPM for HSS and very high for Carbide, any idea how to identify if the triangle insert is Carbide or not, all it says its Tin coated, not sure what the other abbreviations are
this is a set of them from same site, for reference http://www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/1...3.html#SID=404
alternatively any recommendations to replace it with a carbide one in case those are not?
Those are carbide inserts. Replaceable inserts like those come in different grades of carbide and with different geometry (tip radius, for example) but they are all carbide. Never seen an HSS insert, although someone somewhere probably makes them.
They are carbide inserts right, but i think they should not be treated like a normal carbide cutter. Instead an indexable mill tool should be found in the database and edited correctly.