Agreed, some of the best on this forum IMHO.
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Agreed, some of the best on this forum IMHO.
Very nice work.
Looking great, I like the design for securing the spindle not seen it done like that before, I agree that your work is on par.
Look forward to seeing the lathe work, will you be video'iiinngg it as you machine it?
Thanks all, and thanks Lee. The clamps only hold the spindle to the back of bore, so it is not all round support, but should be good enough. As an upgrade if I make a new spindle this will mount via the lower flange to the base of the spindle block, which is arguably a bit stiffer. The tapped holes and counter bore area are already machined so it will just drop straight in.
I've not done fly/line boring before so am learning as I go. May video it, see how it goes. Will have a lot to think about to avoid crashing the lathe.
If fly/line boring is new to anyone I'll post a few pictures up soon to show how I'm going to approach it.
OK, so I need to bore this hole out to just over 80 mm to give a nice sliding fit on the WC spindle:
Attachment 22292
To give you an idea what is required here is the finished fly-boring cutter mounted on the lathe. Chuck is removed, an MT4 dead centre put into the head stock end, an MT2 live centre (rotating on bearing) put in the tail stock end, and drive provided by a long bolt from the drive flange running through a lathe carrier (lathe dog). This may look precarious but it has been done like this for years:
Attachment 22299
So here is the walk through to get to that point. First off I sketched it out:
Attachment 22298
Then I needed a single point cutter so started with an old 10mm HSS cutter:
Attachment 22296
Then marked the tool, roughed it out using an angle grinder with an inox blade. Then used the bench grinder to ground the required shape. Still a bit of finessing required:
Attachment 22297
Marking out the tool carrying bar with 2 scribe lines - one in the middle (where the tool, clamp bolt, and adjust bolt will be), and one further down where the edge of the vice will be. This is to keep it aligned when machining the features:
Attachment 22300
I needed to make a rotary alignment tool (don't have a rotary axis):
Attachment 22301
Setup for first op:
Attachment 22302
Attachment 22303
Then used the alignment tool to rotate it 90 degrees:
Attachment 22304
Attachment 22305
Aligned to edge of vice jaw:
Attachment 22306
rotated for 2nd op:
Attachment 22307
rotated again for 3rd op:
Attachment 22308
Over to the drill press for the dia 10 pilot to 40 mm depth:
Attachment 22309
Then reamed (very slow, lots of oil):
Attachment 22310
Holes tapped:
Attachment 22311
Assembled and checking the fine tune screw was going to advance the tool in the range I needed:
Attachment 22313
Attachment 22312
Mounting between centres:
Attachment 22314
Then onto the lathe carrier:
Attachment 22315
Attachment 22316
Attachment 22317
Attachment 22318
Attachment 22319
Attachment 22320
Attachment 22321
The last part to make is a fixture to hold the spindle mount in place on the lathe cross slide. This will bolt down onto the T-slot nuts, and bolt up into the underside of the spindle block using the existing M12 tapped holes. The key feature is that it will have M5 grub screws at each corner to provide adjustment vertically (bore centre MUST be aligned to lathe centre height), and to provide adjustment in tilt in 2 directions. Essentially a tramming plate to get it all lined up. Here is the CAM:
Attachment 22322
Flip side will be counter bored:
Attachment 22323
Machining under way:
Attachment 22324
This is the guy to follow with lathe work this is part three but worth watching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAzCVDF304oQuote:
OK, so I need to bore this hole out to just over 80 mm to give a nice sliding fit on the WC spindle:
Thanks Clive. I know Keith's channel well, he does some great work.
For info he held the tool in the 3 jaw, which will have some run out, but as this is a single point tool it does not matter as such because it will still cut a circle. What it does mean though is measurements of the cutting bit (made with a mic or calipers between the tool tip and back of the bar) can only be judged relative to the last cut, not absolute. So if the cut needs another 0.25 mm taking off then that is the increment of the tool.
However, using between centres (effectively no run out) allows absolute measurements of tool stickout because it is revolving about the true centre of the bar, assuming the bar is straight. So if you want an 80 mm diameter cut you can set the tool to that distance before the cut. Of course you would still check the bore of the last cut as you proceed to be sure. Either way works.
Also I had to make a lathe carrier (to transmit the rotation) because couldn't find a commercial one that big (bar is 50 mm). I'm sure they exist, just didn't see one on a quick search and I made mine in the time it would take the postman to send one, plus it was 'free' from scrap material.
Here is a video showing the same boring method in use :)
https://youtu.be/s8HM8ja9t-A?t=80
Cheers Lee, all good info.
Tiny update:
Drilled 3mm pilot holes ready to open up and tap to M5. These are peck drilled right through the 20 mm part using a 1 mm peck with full retract in between, and dab of oil each time the drill comes out of the part to clear the swarf. These take the leveling grub screws:
Attachment 22424
Attachment 22427
Then the part was flipped and the counter bores machined for the M12 cap heads:
Attachment 22425
Then bolted down onto the top slide using the T-nuts I'd made for another fixture. The M12 bolts are a bit long so will need to cut them down. They will hold onto the side of the spindle block which already has M12 holes in it. There are some random threaded holes in the part but they were in the piece of scrap I made the part from:
Attachment 22426
really interesting stuff... keep it up!
This cnc build porn must stop!
(Please keep it coming). :joyous:
OK, as requested here is a video of making a fixture, setting up, and then line boring the spindle housing . . .Quote:
Look forward to seeing the lathe work, will you be video'iiinngg it as you machine it?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sYhDtuqzf2I
Still lots to do but another step closer.
I've decided to do another video, which takes much longer to put together so let me know if this is better than posting pictures.
In this video I attempt to align the 4 rails flat and parallel to each other. They still need lateral spacing/alignment but that will be the next step when it is assembled into the Y axis and they are trammed in. Here are the edited highlights:
https://youtu.be/QIVAXH1YjPs
Patience of a saint very nice vid:applause:
great work, with the level of attention you are paying to the details this is going to be a very impressive machine at the end!
Cheers for the encouragement Clive, Desertboy, Zeeflyboy.
Next up will be re-machining another 1 mm off the Y axis pockets to correct the small CAD error I mentioned earlier, then assembly/alignment of the Z and Y axis. Hopefully no more surprises!
there are always more surprises!
More progress on the Z axis.
Finishing touches, lateral rail alignment, and fitting the ballscrew.
https://youtu.be/yJBE-fxVh8Y
Beautiful, very nice big credit:thumsup:
It is remarkable the persistence to detail, this is going to be a very good machine!
I like the drone capture camera also!:beer:
It's a work of art!
Four rails on the Z axis :surprise:
Its so beautiful that it hurts my eyes ;)
really really nice, and I love the editing too :)
Thanks everyone. More to come soon.
OK, here is Episode 4, building the Y axis. It ended up being longer than I originally planned so this is part 1.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5EjnAWrwGE
Awesome!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bzWSJG93P8
The force is strong with this one ;)
As always an art form. May I ask did you make the grease nipple extenders if not do you have a link for them tnx.
at post #109
Hi Clive,
Thanks for the kind words. I made the grease nipple extenders from a bit of brass. See post #109 in this thread. The top blocks have the right angle in, and there are 4 off. The bottom one is straight and there is only one - it is used for each of the lower bearing blocks in turn and then the block is capped off with a small bolt. You can buy straight ones, but couldn't find an angled one the right size.
The valves are M6x0.75 fine thread, very cheap off ebay. Watch out, some M6 grease nipples are M6x1.0 (ballscrew nuts I think are this size.)
My angled ones needed to be indexed so that the horizontal part would be in the right place when the vertical part was tight. Lots of ways to do it but I tightened the vertical part and then marked the radial exit location.
...
Sorry got distracted part way through typing the reply, Paulus beat me to it.
Yes you are correct re the ball screw size M6x1.0 also worth noting is that if you unscrew the pip (nipple bit) out of the body that is also the same thread. In than case (although you might have done it already) if I could find a 90' nipple with the M6x0.75 thread it might be possible to take out the nipple bit and make a straight extension.:beer:Quote:
You can buy straight ones, but couldn't find an angled one the right size.
The valves are M6x0.75 fine thread, very cheap off ebay. Watch out, some M6 grease nipples are M6x1.0 (ballscrew nuts I think are this size.)
could watch those videos all day long....
Great work as always
Brilliant, your videos are almost as good as the build!
They say so much of your standards, is the rest of your life so disciplined or don't you have time!?
-Martin
OK, episode 5 is now ready. This is part 2 - finishing off the Y axis build.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDT8MmO_a2s&feature=youtu.be
You are putting us all to shame. First Class