It is a signal converter, 0-10volts to 4-20mA.
hvac stuff.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
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It is a signal converter, 0-10volts to 4-20mA.
hvac stuff.
Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-A320FL met Tapatalk
Good work on the mock up Joe. I did mine the other way around with the on /off immediately after the 24V psu. This was my master control. Then the reset to switch the relay/pilz which switched the contractor. If you have an estop event you are then just jumping between estop switch and reset rather than having an on off in there as well. Both ways work just felt like a better operation flow
Very nice Vid Joe, If I might make a very small comment for the benefit and clarity of others. Re the switches and the schematic it would be nice to show that they have leds inside.Quote:
Hi everyone, I've managed to get a working mockup of the e-stop circuit together... another little video:
https://youtu.be/OUgjcH8JGMs
As always any comments gratefully received!
I realise on the vid you can see that you mentioned them. But as drawn it looks wrong because the leds are not shown on the drawing.
Having said that it is superb and will help a lot of people with the Estop and restart circuit.:applouse:
Yes fair point! I realised I had also forgot to draw the contacts on the relay 'switches' too which would have aided clarity. Hope it helps people just to understand what some of these things do. I had never heard of a pilz or a contractor before starting this project so this was a bit of a curve for me. Basic info has been what I've craved from the start!Quote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
Quick question folks. I have bought a huge second hand control box for a bargain price and I'm starting to layout the various components. I am going to keep the 24v cables separate from the mains. Should you keep the 80v cables for the drives separate from the mains too?
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Its always good practise to keep them apart as much as practical. Also I know that you have purchased good quality cable for the mains stuff. Its nice to keep the colours brown and blue as well for 230V and say red and black for the 24Vdc that will help to avoid confusion.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeHarris
Thanks CliveQuote:
Originally Posted by Clive S
I have decided to use XLR connectors between the control box and the steppers. I have ordered some 5pin with male for the cable and female for the cabinet. The four cores of my cy will go into pins 2-5 with the shielding braid going into pin 1 like this how to video:
https://youtu.be/89XDGtJzzBc
My question is do you connect the shield as you come into the cabinet or right at the point of connection with the drives? And do you go straight to the cabinet/back plate or run a wire to the star ground. Apologies if this seems basic to some of you!
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Not saying that this is right, or the only way to do it, but it is working for me...
I use 4-way XLR. CY cable from the motor has its braid soldered to the shield terminal in the XLR plug. Because I don't trust the socket to make a sound electrical connection to the powder-coated cabinet, I run an earth wire inside the cabinet from the earth terminal on each socket to the star earth. Each XLR socket has CY cable to the stepper driver with the shield connected to the socket's earth tag (along with the wire to the star point). I should probably not have daisy-chained the socket earths to each other and then to the star point as each should have had its own wire (probably). I have had no noise issues with my cabinet wiring. At least, not as far as I know.
I've got the shield from the cable from the drive (at the terminal end) soldered to an earth cable which goes back to the star and the cable that comes in from the stepper (at the terminal end) has the shield soldered to an earth cable that also goes to the star earth. Again don't know if its correct but works for me so far...
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