The 2DM860H chinese controllers vs the rest?

I've just googled a BY1144. I don't think my pocket money would have stretched that far. Nor the incomer to the house supply.

Recap:

Attachment 27932

I'm going to replace MOSFETs marked M1 and M6. I'm going to be lazy and crop the leads from the devices to give me 3 pins soldered to the PCB, but first a sanity check that the device, removed from the board, exhibits the problems measured in circuit.

Attachment 27933

Next, with tweezers (reduce the thermal mass) remove each pin with the aid of a soldering iron from the copper side.

Attachment 27934

Next, with solder-wick and the iron, try to clean out the lead holes for the MOSFETs the best I can. In honesty I did 4 this way before falling back on a desoldering workstation - I figured I'd proven the point that this can be done cheaply... but no point labouring this point to myself - use the best tool for the job.

Attachment 27935

Next, repeat for the second device. Then clean up all the old flux with a bit of IPA and the wife's toothbrush.

Attachment 27936

Bend and crop the leads of the replacement MOSFETs, insert and solder from the copper side of the board. A quick examination of the component side confirmed no heavy current traces on that side, so no need to risk trying to solder from the component side as well (the access is inhibited with a couple of wire wound resistors).
Attachment 27937

Note, plenty of heat-sink paste applied to all components.

Next apply power (having replaced the fuse), without a motor attached to check that nothing goes pop...

Attachment 27938

80-odd milliamps - sounds about right for a microcontroller and LEDs.

Full blown test - sig-gen pulsing the STEP input to the driver. It took me five minutes of checking before first realising that 5Hz and whatever micro steps selected that the motor was actually turning, before ramping up the frequency.

https://youtu.be/ZfMfKjh5jvU


So, thanks to the encouragement from Kit to not throw it away - I think I have a repaired Stepper Driver. Having compared the electronics to the replacement DM860 that I bought I'd sooner use this 2DM860 model with what appears much better (robust/specc'd) electronics.

Repair is not for everyone, but perhaps if someone is as clumsy as me you might consider this before spending on a replacement. Your results may vary!

EDIT: Eagle-eyed video viewers may notice that I'd replaced the cooling fan wiring to the board with a couple of Dupont connectors, just to allow me to separate the board from the heatsink easily, plus, the soldering job underneath the silicone was atrocious.

Well done that man, I've got a few dead drives I'll send you them to keep you busy in lockdown...:toot:

Super job and an excelent set of pictures and video. I'm jealous of the range of test equipment. Who'd have thought I could infulence the behaviour of someone so far away:pride:

You haven't used any tools that most builders aren't going to need anyway to fit all the plugs and sockets on a machine (I'd add a solder-sucker for clearing out the holes) and my only gripe would be the lavish amount of heatsink compound. Nice to think Dean will be sending you a pallette-load of stuff to repair.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kitwn

my only gripe would be the lavish amount of heatsink compound.

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I agree - the problem is twofold here - there are isolating pads currently stuck (I use the term guardedly) to the heatsink - using a little bit of heatsink compound. There's no registration of the actual devices to the pads, and no mechanical means other than the PCB stand-offs (and bolts) to mechanically couple the devices to the heatsink. So, you're relying on the stand-off of the device from the board to mate with the heatsink, and/or the blob of compound to provide a conformal interface with a reasonably low thermal resistance. I've not been able to find from the data sheet if the device tab is electrically connected to the silicon, but a test of one of the fails devices suggests that it is - which warrants considerable caution with maintaining the superficial mechanical registration with the pads. The usual approach of a thin film doesn't work in this situation.

I should have known you had a god reason for it.