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Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Yes, I tested everything - there is a live wire going to "R" terminal (tested with one of those screwdriver lights) and neutral to "S" terminal, as well as ground to ground. I will test it with spindle connected in next few days, but I would think that at least power LED turns on when you apply mains, it's not like I am pressing run button or anything.
EDIT: I attached manual page that came with FVD. My pin layout is like the one in the red box. Question is, perhaps I need to connect P with Pr?
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Put neutral to "T" and it will work.
Doesn't matter if spindle is connected or not.
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Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Just tried connecting neutral to T and pretty much all possible combinations with those 3 terminals, non of them worked unfortunately. Just to make sure I am not missing something I added my connections:
Just to clarify, I also tested voltage across those two wires - 222V, so no problem with my connections...
Attachment 12583
What are those P and Pr for? In manual it says "Connector for braking resistor", maybe I need to add one? If so, what size?
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Quote:
What are those P and Pr for? In manual it says "Connector for braking resistor", maybe I need to add one? If so, what size?
You will not need one of those ..Clive
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
In manual P and Pr are connected, does that mean that I have to connect them or are they internally connected?
Seems like it is just faulty FVD and I will have to have my money back...
Any other suggestions what to check or what to do to get it working?
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Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
I think you've tried every combination except the correct one! For single phase you needed to wire up:
R = brown (live)
S= (not connected)
T = neutral (blue)
9 = earth (yellow/green)
P/PR not required to get it running - these are if you want to add a brake resistor to quickly stop the spindle. Useful in a production environment where cycle time is money, but for DIY user this is not required.
This is the instruction sheet I was sent with my VFD:
Attachment 12584
Here is my unit wired up:
Attachment 12585
If this powers up then you then need to set up all the parameters. Some time ago 'Husky' collated all the useful info on that so have a search.
Last thing before attaching spindle - it is worth just a double check across any pair of leads to your spindle to check there is a few ohms of resistance. If all is well then connect the 3 spindle cables to 'UVW'. The order does not matter. If once it is all working you ask for 'forward' and the spindle goes in reverse, then swap over any PAIR of UVW cables. Obviously switch off before you do this.
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Routercnc is correct I have re checked mine and it is indeed R and T for the mains. No link on the braking resistor terminals.
Here is the link post 6 for the setup. http://www.mycncuk.com/threads/5814-...ce-More/page12 ..Clive
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
I am pretty sure I checked that combination and it didn't work, but I will double check tomorrow just in case. And I will shoot some video if it doesn't work, as a prove for seller.
Anyway, this forum is awesome, thanks all of you for your input! I am nearly there to post all of my images in build log subforum.
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
The VFD is evidently faulty - I hope you can get it replaced. As has been mentioned, you don't need a braking resistor. The reason for that option is if the motor needs to stop a load with a large inertia, or stop very quickly, the energy transferred to the capacitors in the VFD can be too much which causes the voltage to rise too high. A resistor is used to dissipate some of the energy and keep the voltage within safe limits for the IGBTs. In our case the spindle rotor inertia is low, so this would only be useful if you want to stop it particularly promptly - e.g. in less than 1 second.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
JAZZCNC
Put neutral to "T" and it will work.
Nope - which two terminals you choose out of R,S,T makes no difference as they're just the connections to a 3-phase rectifier, so are equivalent.
Re: First steel diy CNC mill/router build
Thanks for your replies, just to prove I am not actually stupid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzHZ...ature=youtu.be
Just contacted seller, shall see what he has to say