New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

Stupid question probably but where do I use the circlip that came with the BK12/BF12 fittings? Not seen any decent vids on how to actually assemble the ballscrew & fittings seems easy enough but the circlip is confusing me lol.

I'm guessing the circlip goes the floating end? But could have done with some instructions lol.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Stupid question probably but where do I use the circlip that came with the BK12/BF12 fittings? Not seen any decent vids on how to actually assemble the ballscrew & fittings seems easy enough but the circlip is confusing me lol.

I'm guessing the circlip goes the floating end? But could have done with some instructions lol.

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On the floating end of the screw BF end there is a groove for the circlip that goes on after the bearing. The the BF block will slide on the bearing and should sit about half way in. The reason is so that if the screw expands it can do so at the BF end as the bearing will slide in the block.

Assembled a bit more started to think about energy chain placement.
Attachment 22705
Attachment 22706

there's 2 bolts in the BK12 mounts that bolt into T nuts but 1 of them is counterbored and under the BK12, The A2's are then upside down and bolted from above was difficult to do forgot I meant to change the A2 bore to a captive nut but worked out ok in the end. Every bolt has a non slip washer under it.

Attachment 22707
Attachment 22708

My AM882'S have being ordered today delivery time is quoted at 7 to 12 working days, so looking at the PSU next.

Does anyone know how the stall protection works? Looking at the manual it sets a pin high until power reset? in which case I could make it work with the Arduino but got a breakout board and a core duo with a parallel port to run linux cnc on.

Went 2nd hand (Cheapest on ebay) of course lol
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-AM882...AAAOSwe-FVAS~f

4 of them, 2 reasons this has quick shipping (1-2 weeks) the new ones at ~£65 have 4-6 weeks shipping and well I save almost £70 which will pay nicely for the PSU and buy a couple more breakout boards (£3 each should buy spares).

They offer a year's warranty which is pretty much worthless lol but I bet they'll be fine for many years to come unless my wiring is dodgy. Going to solder my wires to extend them and make sure the soldered points do not move!

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Does anyone know how the stall protection works? Looking at the manual it sets a pin high until power reset? in which case I could make it work with the Arduino but got a breakout board and a core duo with a parallel port to run linux cnc on.

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Why would you even consider an Arduino What are you going to drive it with? Remember a simple BOB will only have 5 inputs. You will need two for slaved homing that means three left unless you put two PP's in the PC.

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Going to solder my wires to extend them and make sure the soldered points do not move!

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What wires?

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Why would you even consider an Arduino What are you going to drive it with? Remember a simple BOB will only have 5 inputs. You will need two for slaved homing that means three left unless you put two PP's in the PC.

What wires?

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My nema 23 wiring isn't long enough so need to extend it was intending to make sure the soldered connections don't have stresses on them, I was going to use an arduino originally and I will connect it up just to make sure all the axis are moving properly whilst I'm waiting for the AM882's.

Some of my nema's have plugs crimped onto them so I could test the motors but will cut the plugs off and solder the wires.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

My nema 23 wiring isn't long enough so need to extend it was intending to make sure the soldered connections don't have stresses on them, I was going to use an arduino originally and I will connect it up just to make sure all the axis are moving properly whilst I'm waiting for the AM882's.

Some of my nema's have plugs crimped onto them so I could test the motors but will cut the plugs off and solder the wires.

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Are they 4 wire or 8 wire steppers

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Are they 4 wire or 8 wire steppers

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All 4 are 4 wire steppers

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

All 4 are 4 wire steppers

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ok that's a shame because the coils will be probably be wired in series. 8 wired one's can be wired both ways.

I assume the stall protection is automatic in the driver... I don't have the AM882's but mine just does it all automatically - The only extra wiring to consider is the alarm wiring that then lets the motion controller know there has been a fault so that it stops rather than tries to carry on with an axis dead.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Are they 4 wire or 8 wire steppers

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If I find them underpowered (3 of them are 2nm and the one on the Z axis is 1.6nm) I'll replace 3 of them for the X&Y with 8 wire nema 3nm+ nema 23's and swap one of the 2nm onto the Z axis.

That can wait for me to build it up now, too many other things to spend money on in the short term lol it's a never ending hole

If I find it works ok though I probably won't upgrade and start thinking about making router No.2 the one I actually wanted to make in the first place lol but decided to make a simple test router first to get and idea of what I'm doing. Also need that vac forming machine ;)

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Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy

I assume the stall protection is automatic in the driver... I don't have the AM882's but mine just does it all automatically - The only extra wiring to consider is the alarm wiring that then lets the motion controller know there has been a fault so that it stops rather than tries to carry on with an axis dead.

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Looking at the AM882 manual this does look to be the case, which drivers have you got?

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If I find them underpowered (3 of them are 2nm and the one on the Z axis is 1.6nm) I'll replace 3 of them for the X&Y with 8 wire nema 3nm+ nema 23's and swap one of the 2nm onto the Z axis.

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i think that they will be under powered especially if you are using R & P

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Originally Posted by Clive S

i think that they will be under powered especially if you are using R & P

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I'm using 1604mm ballscrews (twin) on the Y, and 1605 on the X and Z. I want to build an 8*4 soonish and I think I'd like to use R&P on that for speed but since then I found you can buy commercial 8*4 routers relatively cheaply at auction or on ebay which make building one a lot less attractive.

When I bought the ballscrews I didn't know what 1604 and 1605 meant lol in retrospect I would have gone with 2010's as the price difference wasn't a lotbut then of course I definitely need the bigger motors I see cnc4you do a 4nm nema 23

https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Stepper-Mo...-03-x-3-Nema23

I wonder if I bought 3 of these (6amp) and swapped one of my 2nm motor's (3amp) to the Z axis will 1 650va toroidal transformers be enough? If I did it I'd swap the ballscrews over to 10mm pitch to double the speed. It's unlikely I will try to mill much aluminium on this but if I do I won't be doing it in the middle lol I'll do it at the edges closest to the Hiwin's to reduce flex on the gantry.

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https://www.cnc4you.co.uk/Stepper-Mo...-03-x-3-Nema23

I wonder if I bought 3 of these (6amp) and swapped one of my 2nm motor's (3amp) to the Z axis will 1 650va toroidal transformers be enough? If I did it I'd swap the ballscrews over to 10mm pitch to double the speed. It's unlikely I will try to mill much aluminium on this but if I do I won't be doing it in the middle lol I'll do it at the edges closest to the Hiwin's to reduce flex on the gantry.

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IN my opinion that would be fine.

Looking through the AM882 manual I found this interesting

"6. Power Supply Selection
The AM882 can match medium and small size stepping motors (from NEMA frame size 14 to 34) made by Leadshine or other motor manufactures around the world. To achieve good driving performances, it is important to select supply voltage and output current properly. Generally speaking, supply voltage determines the high speed performance of the motor, while output current determines the output torque of the driven motor (particularly at lower speed). Higher supply voltage will allow higher motor speed to be achieved, at the price of more noise and heating. If the motion speed requirement is low, it’s better to use lower supply voltage to decrease noise, heating and improve reliability.


Regulated or Unregulated Power Supply
Both regulated and unregulated power supplies can be used to supply the drive. However, unregulated power supplies are preferred due to their ability to withstand current surge. If regulated power supplies (such as most switching supplies.) are indeed used, it is important to have large current output rating to avoid problems like current clamp, for example using 4A supply for 3A motor-drive operation. On the other hand, if unregulated supply is used, one may use a power supply of lower current rating than that of motor (typically 50%～70% of motor current). The reason is that the drive draws current from the power supply capacitor of the unregulated supply only during the ON duration of the PWM cycle, but not during the OFF duration. Therefore, the average current withdrawn from power supply is considerably less than motor current. For example, two 3A motors can be well supplied by one power supply of 4A rating.

Multiple Drives
It is recommended to have multiple drives to share one power supply to reduce cost, if the supply has enough capacity. To avoid cross interference,
DO NOT daisy-chain the power supply input pins of the drives. Instead, please connect them to power supply separately.

Selecting Supply Voltage
The power MOSFETS inside the AM882 can actually operate within +20 ~ +80VDC, including power input fluctuation and back EMF voltage generated by motor coils during motor shaft deceleration. Higher supply voltage can increase motor torque at higher speeds, thus helpful for avoiding losing steps. However, higher voltage may cause bigger motor vibration at lower speed, and it may also cause over-voltage protection or even drive damage. Therefore, it is suggested to choose
only sufficiently high supply voltage for intended applications, and it is suggested to use power supplies with theoretical output voltage of +20 ~ +72VDC, leaving room for power fluctuation and back-EMF. "

I take it I'm building an unregulated PSU?

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I take it I'm building an unregulated PSU?

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Yes if you followed the links I posted

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Yes if you followed the links I posted

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Going to buy the bits you linked to from rapidonline ;)

I'm reading Joe's excellent thread right now but started at the beginning of the thread so taking a while to get to the PSU posts but I think I've got it sorted in my head had a good read around other sites and it seems really simple.

Transformer steps down the voltage, bridge rectifier converts it to DC, capacitors smooth out the DC more capacitors smoother DC.

Looking for a suitable terminal block like Joe has I found them on ebay but take too long from China so need to find a UK equivalent.

e2a found some
https://www.rapidonline.com/truconne...-block-21-3073

Clive S would it be worth getting a pci parallel port and a 2nd breakout board? Cost is only £15 for both. I have no idea how to wire up and configure one board never mind 2 lol.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGtdsXhXiEM :)

Ordered bits for power supply £90 in the end

I got the 25v transformer you linked to Clive only 1 left now ;) I also got 4 capacitors instead of 3, capacitor holers, some barrier terminal connectors, bridge rectifier and 5m of red wire, 5m black wire 2.5mm core.

Now I have no excuse not to have the power supply working before the drivers come.

Had to order 3 more sets of bolts to finish building the router they will be here Friday most of the Z axis is built up now my travel is pitiful around 7cm. If I remake one of the Z axis plates I can get almost 17cm of travel so will do that shortly need to score some 20mm thick tooling plate don't fancy paying £15 delivery on £8 of tooling plate lol.

7cm is actually more than enough for what I plan with the machine but might as well get the extra travel sorted sooner than later and an interesting early project for my machine.

They've shipped everything except my cabling which will be a week :(

That's really annoying eyeing up my heated bed on the 3d printer that has 2.5mm wire and would give the excuse to swap the red mk2 heated bed to the mk3 I got ages ago but never wired up.

Z axis, I need some bolts to finish it off they were ordered yesterday will come tomorrow. I could have used normal bolts but since everything is A2 socket caps I thought I might as well stick with them and buy more. I haven't cut the Hiwin's down so I can remake the Z axis to get more travel
Attachment 22731

Attachment 22732
Finally worked out how to fit energy chain, no way going to fit my water lines in the chain but at least the wiring will be ok, glad I bought chunkier chain for the Y axis as it will have another cable in it.

Parts came for the PSU this morning will build up over the weekend hopefully, I bought 4 capacitors instead of 3 should I fit all 4?
https://www.rapidonline.com/samwha-h...acitor-11-3121

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Parts came for the PSU this morning will build up over the weekend hopefully, I bought 4 capacitors instead of 3 should I fit all 4?
https://www.rapidonline.com/samwha-h...acitor-11-3121

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Personally I would only use 3 caps. Re the pci PP it can't do any harm. The attachments above don't appear to work.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Personally I would only use 3 caps. Re the pci PP it can't do any harm. The attachments above don't appear to work.

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Try again with the attachments

Attachment 22733

Attachment 22734

I bought 4 because I wanted a spare so I'll go with 3 ;)

the company I bought 4 AM882's from contacted me today they only have 2 so told them to ship them and refund the difference and bought 2 from HK angry though as I was expecting them to arrive next week now going to be at least 2 :(

When I finish the router and it moves properly I'm going to buy 1 3nm nema straight away to swap onto the X so I can swap the 2nm to the Z axis as I have a gap is bigger than I thought between the ballscrew and nema and the longer shaft of the 2nm motors are a perfect fit.

Attachment 22753

Attachment 22755

Still got to drill the spindle mount out, bolts are going through the spindle mount them through the top Z axis plate, through aluminium spacers and into the Hiwin carriages directly.

ignore wrong thread

Really am going to need to fit a dedicated 32amp line to the consumer unit, checked out the vacuum cleaners I have and 1 is 2.2kw and the other 1.8kw so if I use them both at once then that's 4kw lol.

What I need is an 800w cleaner for the dust shoe I think and dig out my vac pump or buy a 2nd hand one. At work I have infinite access to lorry air tanks (Used for the air brakes, raising suspension, etc) for free was thinking I could use a couple of them as vacuum tanks to increase the capacity of the vacuum pumps. I have compressed air on tap so less point fitting them for air.

I wonder how safe the air tanks are if I draw a vacuum on them, I think it would be wise to put them in some sort of box to give some protection against failure.

Was reading if I surface the MDF 1/16th both sides then I'll remove the non porous skin and the mdf will be permeable enough to suck through without holes I'm definitely going to have to try that.

Tried to spin my nema's up with the cncshield and arduino but no luck just a ticking sound from the motor's. I've spun all the motors up using a ramps board so will have to drag my printer to the machine to try again annoyed.

Bought myself a cheap spanner/ratchet set from banggood, missing 1/2 my spanners so have to borrow off others and they are getting annoyed.

https://www.banggood.com/12pcs-Profe...l?rmmds=search

click the EU warehouse and only £20 (£7 cheaper than China) now that never happens lol, uber cheap for Chrome Vandium. It's also good to have some cheap spanners so you whack them with a hammer which my snap on set is too expesnive for that sort of crap lol

I have 1/2 a snap on set and 1/2 a bluelight set (It's always the same ones missing lol)

13mm and 22mm are destined to always be in someone elses box, although I no longer need 22mm.

Attachment 22773
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She moves! At least the gantry and Z axis not tried Y axis because of the dual ballscrew, will wait for the AM882's.

Very nice!

Thanks been a long slog but so glad I didn't buy an Xcarve and built my own ;) For a long time I was toying with buying an Xcarve (Or Shapeoko)but I had the extrusion and I found this site and the next thing you know I have Hiwin's and ballscrews instead of a belt and some skateboard bearings lol.

Attachment 22775

Just had a quick scan through, machine looks great mate, can't wait to see some vids of it moving.

Alex

Excellent... what’s first on the list to cut?

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Originally Posted by Zeeflyboy

Excellent... what’s first on the list to cut?

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Making an arcade table for my mate's 40th bday, going to buy a decent solid oak (Or wallnut) table 2nd hand and rip it to pieces and reprocess the wood using the router.

I want to make him something quite trendy looking, 22" lcd embedded in the table top, controllers in a drawer so when it's off it's just a coffee table.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Attachment 22707

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I suggest you replace those couplers before you start using your machine with Lovejoy/Oldham couplers. The one you have now are going to cause you trouble and eventually snap.

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Originally Posted by A_Camera

I suggest you replace those couplers before you start using your machine with Lovejoy/Oldham couplers. The one you have now are going to cause you trouble and eventually snap.

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I have got them on the list of things to do but I think it'll be a month or 2 before I can afford them need to buy the bits for my mates arcade table first so will probably use these couplings till after xmas and look at upgrading then. I can do the motor's at same time and only have to buy the hubs once.

I think I got the nema's aligned straight enough for oldham couplings.

http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalo...dham-Couplings

I'm guessing I have to use 2 hubs and a torque disc?

Yes, you need 2 hubs and one disc for each screw/motor. Actually you could also make those on your machine, which could save you the costs. I think they are pretty easy to make.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2OOchTMpJU&feature=youtu.be

Very slow movement with the ramps board ;) I had to explain to my dad that it would run quicker with the better electronics and PSU lol, I was repeatedly homing the Axis which is slow anyway.

I finally bolted the bed together as well so all 28 bolts are in now, I will add another 4 pieces of 4545 to the bed at some point but bolted in with corners and T nuts because I'm not taking this frame apart for no man lol.

Movement!!! :D
Im a bit jelous!!
Looks good but I understand that the speed (or lack of) is frustrating hehe

Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

Moves good,looks good!:-)

Well done!
First movement is always to be celebrated! That is when you start to treat it like a machine rather than a collection of inanimate objects.

You say this is on a tight budget but it's got the right sort of bits and it will clearly cut stuff out for you. Keep going and you will be rewarded.