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Got it. Thank you for the info AndyGuid.
As much as I enjoy the subject, I guess we should stick to the cnc topic.
I.m considering starting some yoga/meditation thing to become more focused, in order to overcome Rob.s lexicon temptations. :distracted:
Regarding the new desktop pc I received and tested. It has windows xp installed on a HDD. All drivers included.
I.m gonna leave it as it is now as it works just fine, but in the future, when the HDD fails, and will have to do a brand new windows installation, I would very much like to have the drivers saved somewhere.
How can I do this? Or is there a way to create a windows backup or something for the future new hard drive?
Anothet thing that came up today, as I took the pc apart and cleaned it inside, I noticed something strange. At one point I turn it on with just the source, motherboard and HDD. But it refuses to start.
It says:
1. Detecting IDE Drives, CMOS Checksum Error - Defaults loaded. Here I can press F1 to continue or Del to enter Bios. If I press F1 I go to:
2. A black page with a lot of white writing, and among that is IDE Channel 0 - HardDisk Smart Capability - Disabled and a few second after this
3. WINDOWS COULD NOT START BECAUSE THE FOLLOWING FILE IS MISSING OR CORRUPT: WINDOWS/SYSTEM32/CONFIG/SYSTEM
And adding the DVDRROM to other IDE port, it does the same as mentioned above at the first attempt, and then it loads windowsxp just fine.
I.m suspecting that the hard disk might be close to its end, but as well it might be something else.
I.m quite sure the point 1 and were present since I bought the pc, but I did not paid attention as it always loaded the OS.
The pc still works with the DVDRom on it, but I don.t know for how long.
I found a few posts online about third party software to backup your drivers, like DoubleDrive, EasyDrive etc, but still does not hurt to ask, how do you deal with a new hardrive, new windows xp installation, in order to make it go smooth? Or is this error caused by something else?
*point 1 and 2
The most usual cause of CMOS checksum error is a low battery on the motherboard (They are most often CR2032's). For the small price of this battery, I would replace it anyway for every newly acquired secondhand computer.
Will do precisely tomorrow. Thank you.
Hi. In the end the problem seemed to be the ram memory slot, which gives this CMOS error, as it is 1Gb and the Pc sees it as 448 Mb. Changing the slot solved the problem for now, but surely I.ll have to change the memory as well soon. So all good until now.
I.ve managed to get a few other things done, like homing, soft limits, spindle probe script and all went fine.
I.ve watched and read everything I could find about setting the spindle speed via mach3, and still could not solve this yet. The main issue is with PWM Base frequency and Spindle pulleys thing. I either have only 2 speed 24000 and 11000, or I have a few more speeds but the SRO% green line goes backwards, like I have to reduce it to get the spindle to go faster.
The other thing is how exactly do you flaten the work surface. I mean what g code do you use for this?
I.ve started learning about this g-code, and did some basic cuts. Today I.ve uploaded a greyscale image in artcam and set a 3d relief toolpath with 2 cutters for the job, and generated some code for carving a 10 by 10 cm horse. It has 816 lines of code, but the program always stops at line 500. I assume I should change the tool at this point. It just stops and refuses to continue, no matter what I do.
Reading about this, most sugestions are about editing a file called m6start.m1s. I.ve done this with all the scripts I could find and still could not make it work.
A link with details about this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=26_N4uwRWmQ
I.m hoping to make the cnc stop, come to a defined position to let me change the tool, rezero the z, and continue from where it left.
So, how do I do this?
Quoting this guy with his reply to someone.s question:
So you would want the M6Start macro.
However My macro is meant for use with TTS holders Etc. and the Mach 3 tool table.
What your looking for is something just to move to a tool change position then touch off each tool. End quote ----this is what I need as well.
It might work by saving a separate TAP file for each tool, and then either run them separately in mach3 or merge them in one file and manualy add this t1m6, t2m6 lines into the code.
How do you do this operation yourself?
Stopping after exactly 500 lines sounds a bit like a demo version of Mach3, not a fully licensed version. Is it worth checking that your licence key is installed correctly?
Tool change issues would only cause this problem if the tool change happened at line 500.
Coincidentally, the unlicensed version of Mach3 will sun 500 lines of code.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei
Ops. My mistake. I forgot to copy the licence file into mach3 folder when I changed computers. This is solved now and it finished all 800+ lines of code, but did not finish the job as it turned out to be only the roughing toolpath.
So I.m still interested in this: How do you approach this tool changing thing?
- One long g code which the cam software exported with the toolchange commands included?
- Or separate files for each toolpath? (like you manualy move the cnc, chnage the bit, rezero z axix, and click GOtoZ button on mach 3 which takes x and y to the start position of gcode)
- Or is there other way?
I do not have a tool changer, and the code Estlcam generates is M05 (stop spindle) M00 (stop machine) and then M03 (start spindle).Quote:
Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei
This means that I can move the spindle to a convenient position to change the tool, use my auto tool zero macro (I will PM you a copy if you like !) and then press <Cycle Start> to carry on, which will start the spindle and move to the next cut.
Cheers,
Rob
To be more specific, I try to figure out this post processors in ArtCam, as the one I use now GCode (mm)*tap does not support toolchange, and does not let me save multiple toolpaths in one file.
There are many post processors availabe but I have no clue which one to use and why. For example I can save the file using Andersen Multi Tool (*ncc) post processor, and I am already simulating in mach 3 the job.
Oh boy. This hobby is not as easy as I assumed it would be. I am either dumb or the learning curve is quite steep.
Hi Rob.
I do not have a tool changer either. I intend to do it manually. It seems EstlCam is capable of generating a multitool gcode.
I have a auto tool zero macro which seems to work fine, and came with a audio file as well with a lady that says 2.0 complete. Quite creepy. I feel like in the movie Alien.
ˇˇI do not have a tool changer, and the code Estlcam generates is M05 (stop spindle) M00 (stop machine) and then M03 (start spindle).ˇˇ - do you use any macro for this m5, m6 in mach3?
And what is most confussing is that I have so many options for saving a file:
Machine output file is formatted for: and here there are many many names and file types like in this image: Attachment 24886
Some accept tool change, some not.
I.m not fixated on a specific software. it just that ArtCam seems very easy. Take a greyscale relief and make it in g code in a few minutes.
I also had a look at Inventor HSM, but there is quite a bit to learn, and I will, when I.ll need it for something specific. Oh, and it I.ll have to sell one of my kidneys to buy that.
The main projects to be done with the cnc are: stencil cuts, relief carving and gears or other mechanical hardwood parts. Except carving, most jobs are a one tool job, I think.
Any other suggestion about an opensource or cheap software, which is easy to use, is welcomed.
Andrei, I would strongly recommend you look at this http://www.machsupport.com/wp-conten...3Mill_1.84.pdf You could even print it and take it for bedtime reading if you suffer from insomnia :02.47-tranquillity:
Seriously, I would skim through it so you are familiar with where to look to solve specific problems. There is a lot of documentation on the mach support site.
I use Estlcam and for the small cost of a license, it is impressive. you can download for free and you get a fully functional copy, but there is a software time bomb in it, so it may cease to function after a while.
Attachment 24889 Copy that. Over.
To the question: what happens if mach3 is running a finishing cut (long one) and the power goes out, and you don.t know the gcode line it stoped at?...will I find the answer in the book? Or would someone be so kind to tell me if there is a way to avoid starting the cut again.
I intend to put a UPS box on my CNC computer but not the controller. That way, if I have a power outage, I will have the controller return an estop and I will have a few minutes to note the Gcode position. You will also need to use machine coordinates and work offsets to reposition accurately.
I have also got a UPS for my 3D printer as a power glitch can ruin a print.
Where I live there is a tendency for short outages in windy weather.
Same tendency here. Got it.
UPS backup box for pc and a relay switch on the wire that goes to the estop.
Brilliant idea. Thank you. :)
I don't need a relay, without power my controller box gives an estop signal anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei
Here is a pic of the control panel for my office :-
Attachment 24892
That is a beautiful panel, although I don.t understand most of it.
Without power, my entire workshop...just dies. My only friend is nostalgy, if I want to use hand tools. :)
Hi.
I.m getting there with the mach3 reading, and also I did a few small carvings to test some speeds and feeds. All goes well so far.
What I.m not sure about, and the opinions are diverse, is: Do I need any lubricant for the ballscrews?
There are people who say it is not a must. Others say it is. Some say to spray it. Some to put in inside the nut. I.m a bit confused, and the book does not seem to cover this topic.
I would say yes, especially if they're bearing ones.Quote:
Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei
I use 68 oil and brush it on the screw at the moment.
Plan for the next is to fit some elbows/tubing, run the tube to some zerk (grease point) fittings at the machine base so I can just pump grease straight in the nut from there.
That's until I get my oiler/manifolds built/set up.
Does this oil or grease remains dry to the touch after you apply it?
I mean oil and grease, in the form I know them, mixed with fine sawdust equals gunk. Probably for people with cleaner work spaces will work just fine.
Some online discussions suggest an aerosol lube, but they seem to dissagree a lot. I mean from 20 posts you get 20 different opinions and products. And no mention the how often do you have to apply whatever you apply.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Radu_Andrei
Oh. Working with wood on a router. I was talking metalwork.
Anyway.
For a fairly dusty/dirty environment:
We would use GT85 Teflon spray from Halfords on the linear rails/screws and nuts on the automated machines at work.
Leaves them with a slippery film which repelled any dust/dirt and seemed to work well.
Ok. Thank you.
Hi. Long time no see.
I.ve only managed to work a couple of days with the cnc in the last 3 weeks, and tested endmill, ballmills, speed, feeds, hardwood, softwood, with and against the grain and so on.
I.m mesmerized by it. :) A lot of fun and a lot to learn. In the end I fould the speed limit for x at 118ipm, and for y at 86ipm. (not bad for a 220 pounds gantry). They can go a bit faster, but I do not like the sound. It.s a bit low with a 17-18000rpm spindle (can.t go lower for long as it is air cooled). Still it seems to be enough to avoid heat or burns. Keeping the stepdown to apx 60% percent of tool diameter seems to work like a charm with all woods.
I bought a pack of stl files from ebay, and they seem great for most decorative jobs, except frames. There are lots of projects which have the frames included in the whole relief, and even if I.m not a fan of it, it looks fine in the end, BUT I also got a few frame designs on their own, and they do not have any joints. I guess it.s fine for mdf, but for solid wood, I wood very much prefer to cut 4 different parts from one piece of wood, alligned one next to another and also cut the 45 angles for each segment.
Reading a bit about this issue online, I found Autodesh Meshmixer (free) and gave it a try. Does not seem very hard to learn, but still need to study a bit.
But as everything with this project, asking here seems to save A LOT!!! of time. So the question is: What software do you use for editing (modifying) STL files?
For example I attached 2 files, with a separate frame and a relief with a frame included. I would like to remove the included frame first, and then cut the separate frame in 4 mitered parts so i can join and attach later. Also because I want it from another type of wood. How would you do it?
Attachment 24993
Attachment 24994
Oh, and another thing.
It is not an issue the alignment of material on the cnc spoilboard, when you run a profiling cut at the end, and throw away the remaining wood, but how about when a client comes to you with a finished piece of wood, and he want a 3mm edge all around the work. Gave this example as it is extremly visible a missalignment of this nature. How do you approach this?
This last 2 questions are secondary to what happened today. While I was doing a job in 2 cuts, a roughing and a fininshing cut, on both of them, in one or two points, the z axis decided to go upwards and cut in thin air.
This was about 5mm or more in the air. Like it was cutting for 2-3 hours without a problem and then sudently, raise the z axis 3-5 mm above and continue cutting.
I could say to the client: it is cubism, but he.ll not buy it as it looks very weird.
I managed to fix it by rewinding the g code, , restart from an approximate gcode line, rezero the z axis and continue cutting, but that.s no fix.
Any ideas, or links that detail this or a similar problem?
There is a possibility of a broken wire or loose connection. You should check the DIR pulse connections, but it is more likely that you have a break in one of the connecting wires to the Z motor. This is what I had.
Hi Rob.
I.ll check that. Thank you.
Today at the end of a job, during the profiling toolpath, the limit switches kept triggering. I assume because they are very cheap lever type switches and don.t go well with dust and vibration.
I.m considering replacing all of them with someting better, especially for homing, as aparently I got a couple of milimeters of error today, as the lever got bent more and more.
Any recommendations?
Or noise as in emf getting in to the systemQuote:
Today at the end of a job, during the profiling toolpath, the limit switches kept triggering. I assume because they are very cheap lever type switches and don.t go well with dust and vibration.
I use inductive proximity sensors for home switching, but a micro-switch for limit like this
Attachment 25002
The inductive sensor triggers off the aluminium of the gantry, but the micro-switch is tripped by a plastic wedge, which allows me to adjust the trip point.Attachment 25003
Separate pictures as I can not move the gantry at the moment as I am installing a new mains switch panel for the computers and CNC.
There is one lesson I learned early on - do not have the proximity switch triggered by movement axially toward the switch, once you crush the end it is f***ed (rendered inoperative permanently), make the movement across the face of the switch. If you mount the switch on the gantry, you will only need one switch to sense at both ends of travel, by putting metal targets (preferably ferrous) at the appropriate places.
It was an apx 5 hour cut. The switches went mad only in the last 10 min profiling cut. In fact I could not finish it, so I cut the work on the tablesaw.
I assume a noise issue would be persistent all the time, but who knows. I was lucky I was watching it and had pressed the estop quickly, as after a trigger, pressing reset, restarting the spindle and pressing cycle start (which in this case should continue the cut from where it stopped), well, after that, the cutter went straight through the work in a perpendicular direction, no idea where it was planning to go, messing up fortunately, only 3mm on one edge, which I managed to sand and fix.
I.ll do on monday some experiments, to see if it was just for that cut, or was just the starting point of triggers, check the connections and all.
It very well may be noise, but at this moment, my personal opinion is that the limits used as homing, due to the rough contact with the metal components and dust, malfunctioned. The levers are already bent, and I did get some differennt homing refferences. Might be a a loose connection, as Rob said, which causes some noise and all kind of trouble. MIght be somthing else. Who knows.
Anyway, any recommendation about homing switches types?
*once you crush the end it is f***ed (rendered inoperative permanently)* - the switch or the cnc?
Hi again.
Shortly after the the 3 weeks old conversation, I received 3 inductive switches, which I.ll install next week.
I like Rob.s approach of also keeping some mechanical switches in place next to the homing ones, but I.m somewhat unsure what.s the best way to wire all this.
I.ve only got 5 pins on the Bob, one being used for the probe. So 4 pins for the remaining Estop, 6 mechanical limit switches (2 for each axis), 3 inductive homing switches (3wires).
So for example (let.s say P15 is the probe)
1. Combine all limits and estop in let.s say P10 and have P11,12,13 for x,y,z home switches.
2. Combine all limits in P10 and all homes in P11, Estop in either P12 or 13
3. Combine the limits and home of each axis in one pin
So what the best wiring option and why?
First , what inductive switches have you got? Keep Estop separate! All your limit switches can go in series to one pin using Com and NC on the switch, then you can put a push-to-make switch across the lot so you can jog off your limits when you hit them (otherwise you have to toggle and jog, then toggle again) . All your homes can go to one pin using diode routing if needed.
So I have just described option 2.
Homing works by moving an axis to trigger the home switch and then backing off to where the switch is not triggered, so it it quite OK to use the same i/o pin.