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Hi Joe,
Currently puzzling over the implementation of the PNOZ X1.
My understanding of your diagram is, if the coil in the PNOZ has +24V (i.e. E-Stop not pushed), we get:
- The coil contactor closed for the drive PSU
- A +24V E Stop signal to the IP-M
- A lit up E-Stop reset switch light (?!)
- The 24V pilot light is off
With the E-Stop pressed, all the above reverse.
Am I reading that correctly? I would have expected the two lights to be the other way around.
Thanks,
Andy
Hi Joe,
Great thread and videos, it's really helping me in the planning of my CNC design. I've been watching your videos on routing aluminium and am thinking this would be a good cost saving way for me to go. I have the same router as you (Dewalt DW621) but mine only has a 1/4" collet, you mentioned yours has a 1/2" collet in your video - did you get an adaptor or fit a new collet? I don't think I would trust a 1/4" shank bit to be strong enough routing aluminium.
Keep up the good work!
Cheers!
1/4" shank handles cutting aluminium no problem. I cut ali with 6mm tool all the time.Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyFive
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Really? That's good to know. What sort of cutter do I need and what depth of cut can I expect?
Thanks for your help!
Single flute cutter works well for aluminum if your new to cutting because gives better chip clearance. Regards Depth of cut and feeds etc then can't tell you because it's very machine and material dependant. What works for me probably won't work for you.Quote:
Originally Posted by JonnyFive
Lots of variables come into play and machine stiffness along with spindle power play big role so you'll need to use trial and error. Expect to snap a few cutters.
To practise don't use cheap Aluminium like 1050 sheet as it's more difficult to cut because it's sticky like chewing gum and not easy to cut without gumming up cutters unless know what doing.
Also avoid AlTin coated carbide cutters if you're cutting aluminium. Use uncoated carbide. I learned this the hard way...
I’m talking about hand routing the side plates for my machine out of tooling plate which is why I was concerned over using 1/4” bits - seems a bit fragile for my heavy hands. In his video Joe says he used a 10mm bit in a 1/2” collect which sounded less likely to snap.
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Oh ok. Fair point. Put it this way. I'd rather use a cheap 6mm bit and have it snap when something happens, than trying to hold on to a router with a 10mm bit when it catches on something and doesn't snap. My vote is for the 6mm bit all day.
As for flute count, yes single flute would be best, but you can also go two or even three flutes. Three flutes have a thicker core so they'll be the sturdiest, but they will gum up the easiest. If you can strap an air line to the router and point it at the bit, then that will help immensely. Also with three flute you'll need to move quickly to keep your chip load the same. Too slow and you'll be rubbing, not cutting. Which leads to heat, which leads to gumming up.
Try stepping down in increments of 0.5mm at a time to start with.
0.5mm was my plan - gonna take a while as the plates are 25mm thick!!!
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