New build with recycled parts on a ridiculous budget 120cm*60cm work area

I call her Betty but it wasn't until she moved that I felt she was a Betty. After Betty Boo ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-3U7FyKdBS4 I was 13 when this came out lol now I feel old.

2 of the AM882's came robbing bastard UPS charged me £11.50 processing fee because I had £11 import tax, I will keep an eye on this in future UPS are scum make sure stuff is not shipped with them ever again.

You feel old, I was 20 when this came out!

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk

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Originally Posted by scooterist007

You feel old, I was 20 when this came out!

Sent from my EVA-L09 using Tapatalk

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I was going to suggest we should all have a meet but I doubt you could get all our zimmer frames through the door lol.

Sadly all the couriers (and indeed royal mail) have a very cheeky fee for paying the duty on your behalf... the only way around it really is either getting away without paying any duty in the first place, or buying with the duty pre-paid as is sometimes an option on ebay.

It's a fixed fee so not so bad when the duty is a couple hundred, but can seem very unfair to be paying more in extra courier fees than in import duty itself.

Machine is looking great and I agree, although your original budget went out the window I think you have built a very good machine for the money.

I think my single greatest influence on here in how I built my machine was you Zeeflyboy, I saw your build was jealous lol.

I'm really glad I listened to your advice on 20mm plates, 15mm would have been too weak especially given I recessed the extrusion and 25mm too much given the size of Hiwin's.

the 15mm Hiwin's have 2 issues I see M4's are a PITA and the greasing is worse.

For the short term I'm going to directly oil my rail but longer term I will fit proper greasing points. I want to rebuild the Z completely, change the nema mounts and make it look a lot neater I give no shits about how it looks but as soon as I'm comfortable with the machine I want to build another one and flog this one then look becomes important.

I've limited my travel on the Z and the Y due to simple design mistakes made because I never cad the ballscrews and just worked off the engineering drawing's to give me the positions to align the DSG ballnut mounts. These are simple fixes on the Y it increases the travel from 85cm to 90cm which is no biggie but the Z axis I can go from 8cm to 20cm which is.

Still have 2 * 1.3m of SBR25 with 8 new bearings and 1 70cm piece just wondering what could I do with it? Thinking ballscrew driven vacuum former but it's crazy mad man plan cackle, cackle, mad scientist wink.

http://www.southwestcnc.co.uk/joints.html

hmmm interesting joints for cnc machining although I had my own ideas of how to create a custom joint that looks good.

Started the PSU build quick question,

where do the grey and violet leads go I assume this is 1/2 the input coil?

Attachment 22788

Attachment 22789

I have 2 primary cores 115v and 2 secondary cores 25v.

Not quite as pro as Joe's build I did it all by eye with a dewalt lol. And yes that's the side off a pc case lovely recycling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4OoQ...p_VyqY&index=1

Big props to Clive S and Joe Harris ;)

Attachment 22793
I think I need to connect blue and brown together and grey & violet to the mains?

I'll have the spade terminals for the bridge rectifier but do I solder to the capacitor's directly? And how do I ID which is live and neutral on the capacitor?

Ok what does it say on the side of the transformer

If the schematic that you have shown has come with the transformer then follow it.

on the sec. side short yel and black together then red and orange go to the AC side of the rectifier.

on the primary side short grey and violet together and connect the mains to brown and blue.

Before you connect the caps up measure the voltage on the secondary side of the transformer (it should be around 50v AC) With the caps connected DC side it should be about 70v dc (DON'T TOUCH THE CAPS WHEN THEY ARE CHARGED as they will bite you) without a load on they will stay charged for a long time.

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I think I need to connect blue and brown together and grey & violet to the mains?

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See my other post also the yellow and black are incorrect. The secondary wires go to the AC side on the rectifier you appear to have leads on the DC side

Edit turn the caps around in the holders so that all the +ve are on one side (you have them all in a straight line)

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Ok what does it say on the side of the transformer

If the schematic that you have shown has come with the transformer then follow it.

on the sec. side short yel and black together then red and orange go to the AC side of the rectifier.

on the primary side short grey and violet together and connect the mains to brown and blue.

Before you connect the caps up measure the voltage on the secondary side of the transformer (it should be around 50v AC) With the caps connected DC side it should be about 70v dc (DON'T TOUCH THE CAPS WHEN THEY ARE CHARGED as they will bite you) without a load on they will stay charged for a long time.

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Nice one! The diagram was from the datasheet on rapidonline's website.

I was using joe's psu as a guide
Attachment 22794

On Joe's he's connected the red & orange together, blue and brown are going to the mains, then he only has yellow and black (1 primary core I guess) which he has going at diagonal across the rectifier. I didn't really get what was going on how Joe has it wired but what you said is how I thought it should work ;)

I'll connect a 10k resistor like Joe across the outputs to discharge the capacitors but will avoid them been bitten more than once repairing ps2's.

Looking at the rectifier datasheet I can now see why it's connected diagonal

Attachment 22795

Power is turned off on the estate for 24 hours whilst they upgrade the transformers (They've added 22 acres of warehousing on our estate in 2 years!) so having a relaxing weekend.

So time for some tunes
https://youtu.be/aVevvbFNKiY

You think UPS are bad, DHL charge you for just importing the damn parcel even if there's no tax on it.

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Originally Posted by AlexDoran

You think UPS are bad, DHL charge you for just importing the damn parcel even if there's no tax on it.

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Fedex were real good I got charged £15 on my ballscrews not sure how much was there charge if any. I got lucky as they cost over £250 so £15 was peanuts.

They were marked as 2nd hand value $5 each good old Chinese. Customs didn't buy it but they also didn't put the £55 they should have ;)

Had to go work at 4am this morning and then drive for 11 hours so not in the mood lol but when I got back work a nice surprise the other AM882's came with NO import tax!

Just luck of the draw but now have all 4 so really have no excuse to get her cutting this weekend ;)

Including the import tax I paid £215 for all 4 2nd hand not sure how good a deal that is compared to new from UK.

Attachment 22844

Spindle is on
Attachment 22845

My spindle mount drilling is atrocious (Table slipped) some how I got it on straight and tight but I'm going to buy another one and use my machine to get it straight this time. I won't chuck the old one though I will fill the holes with chemical metal and then when I rebuild the Z axis I will use 2 spindle mounts one on top the other to get a really tight spindle.

£17 for another mount not the worst mistake and it will work for now.

I would really like joystick control and digital readout wondering if Linuxcnc would support this with an analog joystick. I'm thinking get a flight sim stick and a throttle then if possible I could use the throttle for spindle speed now that would be uber cool if you had an air cooled spindle you could literally close your eyes and pretend your in a plane lol.

e2a ordered another mount will do it right next time not worth messing about, will take me at least a few days to wire this up.

Attachment 22850

I'm confused where everything goes and how to wire it up. I'll try and explain what I understand please correct me where wrong I normally am lol.

I can see the X, Y, Z & A pul/dir go to the AM882's, the power from the stepper motor PSU goes directly to the drivers not through the BOB.

I think the limit switches one wire to each input and the other wire to the shared gnd? I need 2 limit switches for my Y and 1 for my X can I reconfigure the Z axis limit to be my 2nd Y? I want to set linuxcnc up so it squares the gantry. I'm going to use microswitches for now but I might use inductive sensor instead do I simply find 12v for the sensor elsewhere and wire 1 wire to the Axis input and 1 to the GND?

Tool setting is this the input you would run a probe to? Again is it a shared gnd?

Emergency stop run my stop button to it AND the outputs from the AM882 for stall protection.

I believe I don't need the enable pin out

PWM must be pulse width modulation but for what?

PC GND and the 2 PC 5v outputs where do they go?

the spindle on/off and 0-10v are self expanatory but the 12-24v is that an input for driving the board? If not what is it used for. I thought the board was powered by 5v from the USB socket.

What does the relay jumper do?

Thanks
Desertboy

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I think the limit switches one wire to each input and the other wire to the shared gnd? I need 2 limit switches for my Y and 1 for my X can I reconfigure the Z axis limit to be my 2nd Y? I want to set linuxcnc up so it squares the gantry. I'm going to use microswitches for now but I might use inductive sensor instead do I simply find 12v for the sensor elsewhere and wire 1 wire to the Axis input and 1 to the GND?

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You are going to have a problem with this bob because you won't have enough inputs to do what you are trying to do.
for instance that bob and most simple bobs only have 5 inputs. You will need two for the homing for the slaved axis. Then you have all the limits they can be wired in series to one input that leaves two. you have to home Z and the other axis. So the probe is out of the question.

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Emergency stop run my stop button to it AND the outputs from the AM882 for stall protection.

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The E/S button would not be connected to the stall on the EM882 This should be cutting power to the drives power supplies etc. though a contactor or whatever.

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the 12-24v is that an input for driving the board? If not what is it used for. I thought the board was powered by 5v from the USB socket.

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The 12-24v power is for the inputs and the 5V is to power the BOB. connect the two power -ve together. I would not use power from the usb for anything.

If you are using linuxcnc I would download the 2.8 master branch and get to see how it works. Also I would connect one thing up at a time and see if it works as intended then move on to the next problem.

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What does the relay jumper do?

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this changes what pin 17 will do, you have two choices either the relay OR the B axis dir. You can't have both.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

You are going to have a problem with this bob because you won't have enough inputs to do what you are trying to do.
for instance that bob and most simple bobs only have 5 inputs. You will need two for the homing for the slaved axis. Then you have all the limits they can be wired in series to one input that leaves two. you have to home Z and the other axis. So the probe is out of the question.


The E/S button would not be connected to the stall on the EM882 This should be cutting power to the drives power supplies etc. though a contactor or whatever.



The 12-24v power is for the inputs and the 5V is to power the BOB. connect the two power -ve together. I would not use power from the usb for anything.

If you are using linuxcnc I would download the 2.8 master branch and get to see how it works. Also I would connect one thing up at a time and see if it works as intended then move on to the next problem.

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I ordered a 2nd BOB and PCI parallel port card would this give me the extra inputs I need?

I was going to run 5v from a molex connection on the PC PSU to a usb plug would this be ok? I assume you just don't want to use a real usb port on a pc the connection itself is reliable.

Not worried about probe for now I just want it to work I know that at some point the BOB will have to go in favour of a proper controller but we can worry about that after xmas ;)

If I don't stop spending money on this router soon it will be a crap Xmas lol.

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I ordered a 2nd BOB and PCI parallel port card would this give me the extra inputs I need?

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You can if you can configure the pci PP ok but you are giving yourself a big learning curve.

Re the 5V then connect it to the terminals on the bob.

If it was me in your position with no knowledge on Linuxcnc then I would get the router working with Mach3 first. Remember you have also to build the game table as well. I think you missed your September deadline:culpability:

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Originally Posted by Clive S

You can if you can configure the pci PP ok but you are giving yourself a big learning curve.

Re the 5V then connect it to the terminals on the bob.

If it was me in your position with no knowledge on Linuxcnc then I would get the router working with Mach3 first. Remember you have also to build the game table as well. I think you missed your September deadline:culpability:

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October 18th is the day but we already planned around it ;)

Instead of struggling the plan is to try and hit November 18th and with my mates GF help going to get the cabinet installed whilst he's at work ;) It'll be a hell of a Bday surprise 1 month late lol but he'll never see it coming.

I'd rather make it right then make it crap even if I do miss the date, I already know I'm going to build at least 2 tables, the first one a mockup and the 2nd one hopefully will be the delivered item. I've spent a long time looking at joints for wood I think the key to making the table uber nice is excellent quality wood and good joints going to be a proper real wood table no laminated MDF shit.

I'm going to have a go with linuxcnc (I have compiled gentoo from source so not completely unfamiliar with linux itself) but if I can't get it to work within a couple of days I'll have to go mach 3 route but hadn't budgeted for a copy and also I like linux I get a kick out of open source. I always use open source software if appropriate so I have libreoffice and gimp which does everything I need it to unlike my friends that have crap pirated copies of office and photoshop to type a letter or resize images lol.

I've done some of the graphics for printing on the marquee plates, I'm going to embed them under the glass one below the monitor and one above it, monitor will be mount into the table.

This is one of themAttachment 22855

getting my mates signature without him knowing wasn't easy lol but he wrote the game on the nokia phone so it seemed appropriate.

Another opinion...

5 BOB inputs is just enough. I'm assuming you are using microswitches here - it gets a whole lot more messy if you want to use inductive sensors. All limit switches and home switches can be wired in series to one BOB input except the X slave home switch which must have its own input. I would only use one X limit switch, BTW - that should be fine. One input for touch plate. One input for estop and fault signals in series. This is because a motor stall fault needs everything to stop fast before the gantry gets twisted sideways. And there's still one input spare!

If you really wanted, you could take the Y home switch to the spare input. This buys you the ability to simultaneously home X and Y to save a second or two during homing. I've done that on my machine just because it looks neat but it's hardly essential.

I'm afraid I don't know how slave axis homing works with LCNC - I switched to Mach3 from LCNC before slave homing became available.

I would take 5V to the 5V input terminals. The 12-24V input is for a separate PSU and you would need that to use the 0-10V analogue output for VFD speed control. Otherwise the BOB can't generate enough output volts from the 5V supply - common problem with 5V BOBs.

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Originally Posted by Neale

Another opinion...

5 BOB inputs is just enough. I'm assuming you are using microswitches here - it gets a whole lot more messy if you want to use inductive sensors. All limit switches and home switches can be wired in series to one BOB input except the X slave home switch which must have its own input. I would only use one X limit switch, BTW - that should be fine. One input for touch plate. One input for estop and fault signals in series. This is because a motor stall fault needs everything to stop fast before the gantry gets twisted sideways. And there's still one input spare!

If you really wanted, you could take the Y home switch to the spare input. This buys you the ability to simultaneously home X and Y to save a second or two during homing. I've done that on my machine just because it looks neat but it's hardly essential.

I'm afraid I don't know how slave axis homing works with LCNC - I switched to Mach3 from LCNC before slave homing became available.

I would take 5V to the 5V input terminals. The 12-24V input is for a separate PSU and you would need that to use the 0-10V analogue output for VFD speed control. Otherwise the BOB can't generate enough output volts from the 5V supply - common problem with 5V BOBs.

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Thanks, that makes sense I'm going to have 2 mini towers next to each other one with a pc in it and the other with the PSU, AM882's and BOB so I can get 12v easy from the pc. In fact it's the same hassle to get 5v as 12v.

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I would take 5V to the 5V input terminals. The 12-24V input is for a separate PSU and you would need that to use the 0-10V analogue output for VFD speed control. Otherwise the BOB can't generate enough output volts from the 5V supply - common problem with 5V BOBs.

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Neale As I understand it the 12-24v is also required for the inputs as well. I don't think the inputs work without it. (could be wrong though)

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Originally Posted by Clive S

Neale As I understand it the 12-24v is also required for the inputs as well. I don't think the inputs work without it. (could be wrong though)

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Do you mean the limit switches? I wonder if they work like on an arduino/ramps combo with pull up resistors (Which you can toggle on/off) I know the inputs from the microswitches are 5v on the arduino as I had to use resistors to get the 12v from the inductive sensor down to 5v so I didn't fry the arduino and disable the pullup resistors. But when you use microswitches you have pullup resistors enabled and wire direct.

I do have an inductive probe that works reliably at 5v but running at 5v's reduces the detection distance so I would use a chunkier probe at 12v if I go this route.

I think though decent quality microswitches fitted properly will have high enough accuracy I wouldn't see a difference in real world performance.

Plenty of people use microswitches, and that will probably be fine. I use inductive sensors, as much as anything for convenience in mounting, but in practice I doubt that you will have any issues. The other point is that once you start wiring inductive sensors in series to share a single BOB input, you need to make sure that you have enough volts to drive them as there is a bit lost in each sensor in the chain. I'm putting this crudely and hoping that the experts will let me off this time!

Do you have a pointer to any documentation on the BOB? My guess is that it will work fine with just a 5V feed. However, I doubt that the inputs have pull-up resistors as they are probably opto-isolated and pull-ups are a little bit trickier in that case. It's not like the Arduino where you connect directly to the input pins on the CPU chip. On the plus side, it's a bit more difficult to blow up a BOB than an Arduino! I strongly suspect that if you connect the switches (just one, or a number of them in series) between +5V and the BOB input, it will work fine, but I wouldn't guarantee that without looking at the documentation for the BOB, or even a sample "this is how you wire it" diagram.

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Originally Posted by Neale

Plenty of people use microswitches, and that will probably be fine. I use inductive sensors, as much as anything for convenience in mounting, but in practice I doubt that you will have any issues. The other point is that once you start wiring inductive sensors in series to share a single BOB input, you need to make sure that you have enough volts to drive them as there is a bit lost in each sensor in the chain. I'm putting this crudely and hoping that the experts will let me off this time!

Do you have a pointer to any documentation on the BOB? My guess is that it will work fine with just a 5V feed. However, I doubt that the inputs have pull-up resistors as they are probably opto-isolated and pull-ups are a little bit trickier in that case. It's not like the Arduino where you connect directly to the input pins on the CPU chip. On the plus side, it's a bit more difficult to blow up a BOB than an Arduino! I strongly suspect that if you connect the switches (just one, or a number of them in series) between +5V and the BOB input, it will work fine, but I wouldn't guarantee that without looking at the documentation for the BOB, or even a sample "this is how you wire it" diagram.

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There was no documentation with my quality £3.30 (Delivered) BOB from China lol I found the pinout online for an identical board.

https://warp9td.com/images/BOB_Vendo...line/ST-V2.pdf

I have tried to tight ass my build but only semi successfully lol.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

There was no documentation with my quality £3.30 (Delivered) BOB from China lol I found the pinout online for an identical board.

https://warp9td.com/images/BOB_Vendo...line/ST-V2.pdf

I have tried to tight ass my build but only semi successfully lol.

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For those that are interested I can confirm that the bob in question does need both 5V and 12-24v to get it to work.

Also when say 12v is applied I can also confirm that the input pins are pulled high so that a simple switch to ground will be fine.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

For those that are interested I can confirm that the bob in question does need both 5V and 12-24v to get it to work.

Also when say 12v is applied I can also confirm that the input pins are pulled high so that a simple switch to ground will be fine.

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You are THE MAN!!!

If that's the right doc for the board (sure looks like it!) then what I said above is correct, but connect one end of switch (or set of switches in series) to ground and other end to input pin. That's what the diagram in the doc is doing. Nothing will break if that's wrong, it just won't work. But I'd be pretty sure that connecting to ground is ok.

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Originally Posted by Clive S

For those that are interested I can confirm that the bob in question does need both 5V and 12-24v to get it to work.

Also when say 12v is applied I can also confirm that the input pins are pulled high so that a simple switch to ground will be fine.

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Clive - the doc says "12-24V optional". I'm pretty sure that I've seen someone else talking about a similar BOB where 5V supplied the board but there was no analogue out without the extra supply. But it could have an internal regulator supplying 5V if you do use the higher-voltage supply, I guess. Docs on this Chinese stuff are a nightmare! Personally, I'd start with the 5V connected to the +5V terminal and begin testing. My first BOB was a ZP5A which was broadly similar but no analogue out, so haven't played with the one in question. OP has 5V and 12V available so at least it won't mean an extra PSU either way.

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Originally Posted by Neale

Clive - the doc says "12-24V optional". I'm pretty sure that I've seen someone else talking about a similar BOB where 5V supplied the board but there was no analogue out without the extra supply. But it could have an internal regulator supplying 5V if you do use the higher-voltage supply, I guess. Docs on this Chinese stuff are a nightmare! Personally, I'd start with the 5V connected to the +5V terminal and begin testing. My first BOB was a ZP5A which was broadly similar but no analogue out, so haven't played with the one in question. OP has 5V and 12V available so at least it won't mean an extra PSU either way.

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Hi Neale I have one of these bobs that I have been playing with linuxcnc and mpg's It fooled me at first. but I have just fired the bob up from a usb port for the 5V result nothing on the input pins. then I applied the 12-24v and hey presto volts on the input pins.

edit: there is a red led, lit when the 12-24v is applied it is next to the input pins

I bow to your better knowledge - and the result of a straightforward experiment! Doesn't chime with the documentation or expectation, but if that's the way it works, then that's the way it works. Go to it, Desertboy, and do it Clive's way! I think that we're on the same page re input switches, though - connect between input pin and ground.

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Originally Posted by Neale

I bow to your better knowledge - and the result of a straightforward experiment! Doesn't chime with the documentation or expectation, but if that's the way it works, then that's the way it works. Go to it, Desertboy, and do it Clive's way! I think that we're on the same page re input switches, though - connect between input pin and ground.

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Neale I am an old fart now. I worked on the good old day of valves. So from what I had read on the forum you outclass me by miles:beer:

I spent hours some time ago with this card and thought as you did that the 12-24v was just for the 0-10v stuff. But there may be more than one version of the bob. Happy days.

Rather than old fart I think the terms experienced and seasoned are more suitable now I've turned 40 lol, when I was 20 then yes old fart.

Nah, you're still a Bright Young Thing!

I'm so glad I don't have to ask all the questions myself :D have the same bob on my table!
Can't test it yet.. waiting for a cable :)

Skickat från min SM-N910C via Tapatalk

Going to have a go at wiring it up at the weekend actual work has gotten in the way but going to be really busy until the 9th October so might not get a lot done until then.

Attachment 22887

Fusion does produces nicer renders than turbocad for sure even with drafts.

Good to see you're getting into the swing of things with fusion.

The adaptive machining is invaluable... yesterday I was whizzing around with a 10mm roughing cutter at 2000mm/min and 10mm Depth of Cut - unthinkable with conventional machining strategies and such a relatively flimsy machine.

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Originally Posted by Desertboy

Attachment 22887

Fusion does produces nicer renders than turbocad for sure even with drafts.

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Would be good to see a "how to" video or sequence when making Fusion renders - I can do basic stuff and have done some assemblies but nothing this good ;)

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Originally Posted by Davek0974

Would be good to see a "how to" video or sequence when making Fusion renders - I can do basic stuff and have done some assemblies but nothing this good ;)

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There is a very good one on Youtube, taught me alot about the options available for lighting etc. Im sure a quick search will find it.