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Thanks Irving, its working now, had to connect the rtn to chassis ground... Next job is put together the TACHO!!! this is just a temporary one as im going to give cash to this person who is designing "The Ultimate Rev Counter"!!:naughty:Quote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
Rick
That suggests a ground fault... is your BOB optoisolated?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
Lets just see if we can get the project off the ground first.... so many toys to play with, so little time to do so....Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
Yes it is, its the one from cncdoctor co ukQuote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
Hey ive got the simple one, thats fine, im willing to wait, ive lots of toys to be getting on with too lolQuote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
Ah... which position have you got J1 in... are your commons +5v or ground? If you have the commons at +5v then RTN needs to be connected to the -ve (ground) side terminal of the power supply input for the BOB, rather than a general chassis ground...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
I will check in the morning, out of interest does the gnd pin on the BOB go to ground..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
depends.... the whole point about an optoisolated board is that it should seperate PC ground (the shell of the D-type and the PC case) from the CNC ground. In most cases they will be at the same potential... but equally they could be several volts apart (for instance if the PC was powered from a different phase of a 3phase feed... not uncommon in factories that derive their 240 from the 3-phase coming in).
The point is, what do you mean by ground? the PC ground or the CNC ground? In this instance the 'common' rail for pins 2 - 9 on the BOB output can either be +5v or 'ground', which is 'CNC_ground' and is the same potential as the -ve side of the external supply to the BOB. Chassis ground could well be PC ground, depending on how the BOB is installed, so if the common rail is not 'CNC_ground' you need to take RTN back to the -ve side of the supply to the BOB and not to chassis ground.
I think this stems from the fact that the rack system that holds the drivers has the 0v tied to the case, when using the digiplan mod the diagram shows the bob gnd 14,15 connected to the 0v of the driver board... does that sound like the problem...Quote:
Originally Posted by irving2008
Here the hex code firmware for that PIC chip
http://www.jeffree.co.uk/revmaster/r...r-firmware.zip
Cheers George :)
Ok then... Im ready.
Attachment 2636
:confused:
This is my basic interlock for the spindle direction change, ive stared at it for some time so i dont think there are any mistakes lol....I hope..
There is no brake resistor in this circuit but i dont think it will need it... the stop time from 3500rpm to 0rpm at the motor spindle is less than 2 seconds..
Any light at the end of the tunnel yet?
Oh yes All axis installed and working perfectly with mach, spindle working with mach speed control (how much fun was that lol) just installed E-Stop Circuit, and spindle start switich and contactor, now about to start on the Fwd-Rev contactor, and then on to spindle start, fwd-rev relays with mach control, at the moment it is a manual start button for the spindle startQuote:
Originally Posted by GeorgeD
and direction.
Onward!!!
on a side note ive almost finished my chineese tacho as a stand in untill something better comes along lol
With the spindle control done, Ive decided to tackle the Limit switches... there are proximity switches present on the machine of the type below:-
Attachment 2637
these were again connected to the old main logic board now thats gone does anybody recognise this type of switch, i know i could change them for micro switches but as they are going to be used for limit rather than Home switches i would like to utilise them if i could...So any ideas???
Label says 36vdc 200ma BN=L+, BK=OUT, BN=L-.
They could be Reed switches,Rick?
I doubt it, a reed switch wouldnt need a 36v supply. These are active devices.
Rick, is there a magnet or something to activate them? Or are they just activated by the table?
OK answered my own question... they are inductive proximity switches, easy to use with your opto-isolated inputs, just need to work out which polarity they are... is there a part # on them?
IS5003
IS-5003-ANOG
10 - 36vdc
made by ifm electronics
http://ifm.com/ifmgb/web/dsfs!IS5003.html
There is a gap in the slide to detect position
I thought you would know i2i lol , well while the site was down I managed to track down a data sheet and now these proximity switches are operational with a nice little relay board, I think they were used as home switches in the original design as they only operate at one end of each axis only, I understand this is not the best way to go as the repeatability is not good, so im going to get the drill out at sometime and drill the recesses at the other end of the axises and use them as limit switches.
Ive still not got out and completed fitting the tacho yet, although Ive got all the bits as i had to take a break and goto work, yuk! yuk! yuk!.
Rick
You're right they are used as home switches, and i suppose as long as the area is kept clean they would be ok for the job.
Do you have a schematic for the relay add on.
Looking at the data sheet it looks like it will drive a small relay direct, or even switch an input to ground.
on the x axis there is a gap at either end, but i'm not sure on the other axis.
Quote:
Originally Posted by i2i
Well when its running i will do some tests and see just how accurate they really are.
Quote:
Originally Posted by i2i
Well its not really A wiring diagram but i think you will understand it:-
Attachment 2662
Rick
I'm wondering if the BU wire could be used to directly take a mach input low, or keep it low until the gap appears. If you get chance give it a go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
on a bit of a side note, i picked up a soft ended r8 arbour today to test out the auto changer.
As soon as i get round to converting my 3hp boxford 240 tcl, i'll get onto turning it.
I did consider this but i was looking at the boxford covered up in the garden pooring with rain and decided i wanted to do something and i just decided i had a 5 relay board and small 12v powersupply so i did it, it may be overkill but at least with the relay design i can utilise the sensors output without a PC fullfilling my manual control Obsession!!! lolQuote:
Originally Posted by i2i
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Ricardoco
lol:naughty::smile:
Im so gutted because i dont have an R8 taper, See belowQuote:
Originally Posted by i2i
Attachment 2664 Attachment 2663
Ive no idea what that taper is :cry:
have you pulled that out of another holder that's in your spindle, as it looks just like the colchester easy change holder from a 30 int holder. Or does that go straight into the spindle.
there should be a cap head screw that goes through the centre of your easychange holder. Or does the spindle bolt screw into the top of the easy change
LOL nope the spindle has an M12 (I think) thread in the top & Holds the sprocket on, that goes all the way through and as you may know the easy change has an m12 hex bolt that goes up inside it...
Here is a quick drawing i knocked up just to give you an idea:-
Attachment 2666
Ill give you a buz in a moment.
Rick
just had a nose back through the pics, and it looks like the spindle is designed to take the coventry easychange collet, rather than an R8 or int.
Give me a quick ring, as i think you have a int spindle there.
Hello.
I have a 260VMC converted to run on Mach3, so I thought I'd add a bit to your thread...
They are a good machine within their limited capabilities, I've cut aluminium, brass, PB and hardwood on mine. When I get coolant fitted to it I'll be having a go on some steel, so if any other readers have a 260 fitted with coolant I would like to know where the tank went and so on.
The facility to swing the head round 90 degrees makes it a horizontal borer, a shame that there is no way of clamping the head at some intermediate angle (future project?)
I've had no problems with the existing proximity home switches, their repeatability is not an issue on my machine. The Z axis is controlled by a drilling (dimple) near the top of the column. As to the spindle taper I can't help you, because I've never had the easychange chuck off. From your photos it could be a modified INT 30 without the driving slots/keys or a shortened MT3....some measurements would throw more light on that issue. Is the disappointment about it not being R8 because you have a heap of R8 stuff? Collet chucks and so forth? Well, with the Z to the top, there is barely room to get an R8 collet chuck up the spindle from the top of the table without a tool in it and then of course there is no spindle lock so it would be impossible to tighten the collet nut. What I had to do was bite the bullet and BUY (not a nice word in a Yorkshire Lad's lexicon) an easychange ER25 collet chuck and a set of collets.
My tool carousel is lurking at the back of the workshop somewhere as I saw no good reason to keep it, if the user can't pick the correct tool in its holder from the cupboard under the machine when the software is yelling for a toolchange, then he shouldn't be driving it IMO. And anyway I wanted somewhere to park the monitor.
To digress a little, I'm in the latter stages of converting a Denford Easiturn3 to run with Mach3 and I required more inputs than your average BOB has, so 2 parallel ports and 2 of Peter Homanns MB-02 V6 BOBS filled the bill, the 1st BOB is normally jumpered (5 inputs) but the 2nd BOB is jumpered to give inputs on pins 2 to 9 as well as the usual 5, giving me a grand total of 18 inputs. As and when I get round to it I'll be having an MB-06 in the 260VMC and another stepper driver to run the 4th axis (under construction), and have the jog buttons on the front panel working again. This seemed easier to me than PICs or Modbus, being a humble MechEng, not a programmer.
Get yourself some 1/2" x 6" aluminium, drill and tap M6 holes on say a 20x20 matrix for a "sacrificial" fixture plate, surface or flycut both sides on your machine, add dowels underneath to drop into the T slots, then beg, borrow make or buy a verticality detector AKA a spindle square and check the column to table. Mine is a few thou out on the Z (another job on a long list) but was easily adjusted along the X axis. If you do have a crash into the plate it can always be surfaced again, which is better than looking at a part-pocket in your table. Not mine, fortunately, but I know where there is one.....
Elsewhere on this forum someone mentioned X+, X- Y+, Y- etc travel directions. If these appear to be wrong they can be reversed in Mach3, its in the config menu, under "Home/Limits", first column.
Link: Peter Homann homanndesigns.com/store/index.php
Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to the next installment !
Regards,
John
In North Notts.
From the details and a quick chat it seems that the spindle has been made specifically for the easychange toolholder, without the normal r8 or 30 int holder.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MHJ
Well as stated by i2i in the post above, the actual easy change chuck and spindle, after investigation seems to have the same taper as one of the easy change tool holders, I had wanted to go down the R8 tooling route as there is so much R8 tooling out there at such a reasonable price. as it turns out my plans for the future of the 'Z' Axis fit quite nicely with the existing taper, in fact im very happy as i intend to fit an ATC and the spindle fits nicely with that but that will be in another chapter!!
I have tried to keep the machine in line with the defualt settings in mach and as such i have and will alter the machine rather than the software to keep in line with the default settings.. but thats just me.Quote:
Originally Posted by MHJ
Thanks for posting some interesting points and suggestions, and please post again, im sure i speak for everyone when i say the more information out of the brain and on the forum the better.
Rick
OK ive got an hour or so before i have to go to work so i decided to have a look at this tach setup, the 22 sensor i have used is obviously working as i get numbers on the display but they are all over the place, so i decided to investigate the existing sensor that is on the spindle, this is an rs 306-061, there are two types of this sensor, mine is the slotted type, my uestion is can i use this with the divider circuit i got from irving...(posted earlier in this thread??) or indeed if irving is around what does he think..
Rick
This is the divider Circuit to save searching.
Attachment 2684
And here is the link to the RS sensor
midas.herts.ac.uk/Datasheets/opto/optoswitch.pdf
Rick
why don't you just make a disc with one slot, and swap it for the existing one.